help with d24 injection pump timing

hustonr123 · 07-26-2008, 11:16 PM

Anybody help me with how you set it.
Also unsure about the .28" setting since I added the turbo.

745 TurboGreasel · 07-27-2008, 05:45 PM

Set belt tension(not very tight, should run quiet).
Do be sure the timing advance is disconnected.
Loosen injector lines before adjusting the pump, and it is a good idea to counterhold the pump outlet check valves when cracking the injector lines, esp. if those have been overtightened.

Engine TDC
Cam locked TDC
pump gear locked with pin.

Outside NA, ......0.90 (0.035")
US/Canada, non EGR ...0.80 (0.031")
US/Canada, EGR .........0.85 (0.033")
US Calif. EGR .............0.75 (0.029)
tighten timing plug to 6.6 ft/lb w/ new seal washer
Mine is def friskier with Euro timing.

hustonr123 · 07-27-2008, 09:28 PM

to set you rotate the pump gear counterclockwise to the lowest on the dial indicator then set it to 0. turn the pump clockwise to put pin back in then twist to get .033". this is what a read on autozone website. I did it there way but I think the na pump ran better. I would of let my car the way it was but the na pump went bad thursday started smokin clouds of white at idle.

hustonr123 · 07-27-2008, 09:32 PM

also the valve on the turbo pump that adds more fuel when boost rises. How can I tell if thats working?

745 TurboGreasel · 07-28-2008, 07:58 AM

If the boost aneroid doesn't work, most likely symptoms would be fuel pouring from the vent, or a big black cloud when you hit the gas, dissipating as the boost comes on. easy to check...something will change if you pull the hose off and go for a drive.
its function is to reduce fuel(smoke) until boost comes on. that sounds like adds more fuel when boost rises, but it isn't.

hustonr123 · 07-28-2008, 06:14 PM

it doesnt change with or without hose connected. I had to turn the pump screw back so it would quit idling high and stop the smoke so how can i fix this?

745 TurboGreasel · 07-29-2008, 12:07 AM

You don't disconnect the hose, you disconnect the cable, as detailed in step C1 of the manual above. sorry, I should have been more specific...I notice I put the pictures in the wrong order. also, unless you live at very high altitude, you need to have voltage at the altitude compensator solenoid (round switch on left fender by glow controller and blue wire to small solenoid on side of pump...maybe different on 240) as it affects timing quite a bit with the eng running.

you cold start device may be failed, and need to stay disconnected.

hustonr123 · 07-29-2008, 06:48 PM

240 diesel were not turbo I bought a 740 series turbo diesel motor added the turbo to my motor then the na pupm went so I took the turbo diesel pump and put it on my car so can I run a jumper wire from the fuel cutoff to that other solenoid on side of pump that would give it power when the key is on

745 TurboGreasel · 07-29-2008, 10:00 PM

Yes, that is what Volvo did, except they run the jumper withe through the high altitude switch.
I just went through all that on my car, and now it rattles like crap at low rpm/low load if that wire comes unpluged

hustonr123 · 07-30-2008, 04:39 PM

think found the problem I didnt change my injectors Im not sure if there differnt

745 TurboGreasel · 07-31-2008, 03:24 AM

If you get them set to 155 BAR, they will be real close.
I know VW sets them 135 NA and 155 Turbo.
Opening pressure is controlled by shimming a spring inside the injector, easily done, but you need a test tool to get it right.
any tractor truck or diesel shop can do this, and shouldn't charge much.
You may well be due for new nozzles anyway. Autohaus Arizona list some for about $9ea.
or they sell complete injectors for $55
http://catalog.autohausaz.com/autoha...sel%20Injector

If you do remove the injectors, use new heat shields underneath EVERY time, and don't overtorqe the injector halves together (50 ft/lb) or the injectors into the head(50 ft/lb). pipe to injector (18 ft/lb)
You can pull the injectors with the pump on,but loosen the delivery pipes at both ends so they can swing out of the way...if you bend them much, they will break on the road later.

A 27MM socket works in place of the fancy one, but may take a little grinding. if you feel fancy, hollow out a space inside to make more room for the return hose fittings, the regular socket likes to bend those in.
A bit of baling wire, or coat hanger with a hook formed on the tip will be pretty good for pulling out the old heat shields.
take care not to let the injector tips hit anything while they are out.

hustonr123 · 07-31-2008, 06:21 PM

The injectors are 5k miles on rebuild Id hate to fool with them would It hurt anything not changing them?

hustonr123 · 07-31-2008, 06:22 PM

the diesel shop quoted me 250 to rebuild all 6 and ended uy paying 400 bucks

745 TurboGreasel · 07-31-2008, 07:00 PM

looks like 6 new injectors would have been $10 less, you didn't get a good deal. Might do better at an AG shop.

Lower opening pressure will advance injection timing, but I don't know how much. We are talking about a 290PSI difference (41.43mm shim change)

nozzle and injector are matched, don't mix em up.
If it makes an unusual clattering noise(think gasser with knock on every cyl every time)engine braking downhill, you need to do something.

did the shop set them for turbo or NA use?
to increase opening pressure, use a thicker washer. 0.05mm is an approx 7PSI change. shims are available in 0.05mm increments from 1.00 - 1.95mm

hustonr123 · 07-31-2008, 07:08 PM

O its noisy real noisy when you let off the throttle, the shop set them to na. I guess I better swap them out with the 1"s in the d24t engine. Just suks I pretty much wasted 400$ on them. I really wanted to keep the d24t pretty complete in case I ran accross a good body.

RIVERHEAD · 10-23-2014, 11:20 AM

Hi Can anyone help.
My 940 intercooled TD recently started to run really REALLY rough and conked out.
I reckoned it was a good motor. 148K miles.
I think the pump drive belt has hopped a cog.
it is really old and worn and sloppy on the cogs, lots of play so it seems the most likely culprit.
The problem: I cant find any reference to how you time this drive belt.
The main timing belt is fine and was replaced about 15K ago. Wish I had got this belt done too!
Has anyone a guide to setting it up?

thanks

07-26-2008, 11:16 PM	#1
hustonr123 Board Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: marion PA	help with d24 injection pump timing Anybody help me with how you set it. Also unsure about the .28" setting since I added the turbo. __________________ 83 244 Gl diesel +T 117k

07-27-2008, 05:45 PM	#2
745 TurboGreasel Board Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Freedom CA	Set belt tension(not very tight, should run quiet). Do be sure the timing advance is disconnected. Loosen injector lines before adjusting the pump, and it is a good idea to counterhold the pump outlet check valves when cracking the injector lines, esp. if those have been overtightened. Engine TDC Cam locked TDC pump gear locked with pin. Outside NA, ......0.90 (0.035") US/Canada, non EGR ...0.80 (0.031") US/Canada, EGR .........0.85 (0.033") US Calif. EGR .............0.75 (0.029) tighten timing plug to 6.6 ft/lb w/ new seal washer Mine is def friskier with Euro timing. __________________ . . No remorse . . . . No regret . . .War without end Feedback

10-23-2014, 11:20 AM	#16
RIVERHEAD Newbie Join Date: Oct 2014	D24 fuel pump timing Hi Can anyone help. My 940 intercooled TD recently started to run really REALLY rough and conked out. I reckoned it was a good motor. 148K miles. I think the pump drive belt has hopped a cog. it is really old and worn and sloppy on the cogs, lots of play so it seems the most likely culprit. The problem: I cant find any reference to how you time this drive belt. The main timing belt is fine and was replaced about 15K ago. Wish I had got this belt done too! Has anyone a guide to setting it up? thanks

07-27-2008, 09:28 PM	#3
hustonr123 Board Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: marion PA	to set you rotate the pump gear counterclockwise to the lowest on the dial indicator then set it to 0. turn the pump clockwise to put pin back in then twist to get .033". this is what a read on autozone website. I did it there way but I think the na pump ran better. I would of let my car the way it was but the na pump went bad thursday started smokin clouds of white at idle.

07-27-2008, 09:32 PM	#4
hustonr123 Board Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: marion PA	also the valve on the turbo pump that adds more fuel when boost rises. How can I tell if thats working?

07-28-2008, 07:58 AM	#5
745 TurboGreasel Board Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Freedom CA	If the boost aneroid doesn't work, most likely symptoms would be fuel pouring from the vent, or a big black cloud when you hit the gas, dissipating as the boost comes on. easy to check...something will change if you pull the hose off and go for a drive. its function is to reduce fuel(smoke) until boost comes on. that sounds like adds more fuel when boost rises, but it isn't.

07-28-2008, 06:14 PM	#6
hustonr123 Board Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: marion PA	it doesnt change with or without hose connected. I had to turn the pump screw back so it would quit idling high and stop the smoke so how can i fix this?

07-29-2008, 12:07 AM	#7
745 TurboGreasel Board Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Freedom CA	You don't disconnect the hose, you disconnect the cable, as detailed in step C1 of the manual above. sorry, I should have been more specific...I notice I put the pictures in the wrong order. also, unless you live at very high altitude, you need to have voltage at the altitude compensator solenoid (round switch on left fender by glow controller and blue wire to small solenoid on side of pump...maybe different on 240) as it affects timing quite a bit with the eng running. you cold start device may be failed, and need to stay disconnected.

07-29-2008, 06:48 PM	#8
hustonr123 Board Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: marion PA	240 diesel were not turbo I bought a 740 series turbo diesel motor added the turbo to my motor then the na pupm went so I took the turbo diesel pump and put it on my car so can I run a jumper wire from the fuel cutoff to that other solenoid on side of pump that would give it power when the key is on

07-29-2008, 10:00 PM	#9
745 TurboGreasel Board Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Freedom CA	Yes, that is what Volvo did, except they run the jumper withe through the high altitude switch. I just went through all that on my car, and now it rattles like crap at low rpm/low load if that wire comes unpluged

07-30-2008, 04:39 PM	#10
hustonr123 Board Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: marion PA	think found the problem I didnt change my injectors Im not sure if there differnt

07-31-2008, 03:24 AM	#11
745 TurboGreasel Board Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Freedom CA	If you get them set to 155 BAR, they will be real close. I know VW sets them 135 NA and 155 Turbo. Opening pressure is controlled by shimming a spring inside the injector, easily done, but you need a test tool to get it right. any tractor truck or diesel shop can do this, and shouldn't charge much. You may well be due for new nozzles anyway. Autohaus Arizona list some for about $9ea. or they sell complete injectors for $55 http://catalog.autohausaz.com/autoha...sel%20Injector If you do remove the injectors, use new heat shields underneath EVERY time, and don't overtorqe the injector halves together (50 ft/lb) or the injectors into the head(50 ft/lb). pipe to injector (18 ft/lb) You can pull the injectors with the pump on,but loosen the delivery pipes at both ends so they can swing out of the way...if you bend them much, they will break on the road later. A 27MM socket works in place of the fancy one, but may take a little grinding. if you feel fancy, hollow out a space inside to make more room for the return hose fittings, the regular socket likes to bend those in. A bit of baling wire, or coat hanger with a hook formed on the tip will be pretty good for pulling out the old heat shields. take care not to let the injector tips hit anything while they are out.

07-31-2008, 06:21 PM	#12
hustonr123 Board Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: marion PA	The injectors are 5k miles on rebuild Id hate to fool with them would It hurt anything not changing them?

07-31-2008, 06:22 PM	#13
hustonr123 Board Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: marion PA	the diesel shop quoted me 250 to rebuild all 6 and ended uy paying 400 bucks

07-31-2008, 07:00 PM	#14
745 TurboGreasel Board Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Freedom CA	looks like 6 new injectors would have been $10 less, you didn't get a good deal. Might do better at an AG shop. Lower opening pressure will advance injection timing, but I don't know how much. We are talking about a 290PSI difference (41.43mm shim change) nozzle and injector are matched, don't mix em up. If it makes an unusual clattering noise(think gasser with knock on every cyl every time)engine braking downhill, you need to do something. did the shop set them for turbo or NA use? to increase opening pressure, use a thicker washer. 0.05mm is an approx 7PSI change. shims are available in 0.05mm increments from 1.00 - 1.95mm

07-31-2008, 07:08 PM	#15
hustonr123 Board Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: marion PA	O its noisy real noisy when you let off the throttle, the shop set them to na. I guess I better swap them out with the 1"s in the d24t engine. Just suks I pretty much wasted 400$ on them. I really wanted to keep the d24t pretty complete in case I ran accross a good body.