• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

R12 to R134a Conversion --- Who's Done it?

Bernie

New member
Joined
Sep 29, 2003
Location
Socal
My R12 system is flat and I have no intentions of using $45 a pound R12 to see if it leaks or not.

I want to convert to 134. I have been searching and it appears of FCP Groton that there is a Aftermarket Retrofit Kit (pn AC51.002K) for $21.95, made by Scan Tech.
Is this all I need to convert over?
They also have a Genuine Volvo Conversion Kit 75-90 (pn9145661), that costs $103.00. Kit 88-90 Includes: ExpValve, Rec. Drier, Oil, & all required seals and decals.

The question is "Do i need to go to this expensive kit or will the aforementioned retrofit kit do the job?"

Thanx In Advance
 
Bernie said:
My R12 system is flat and I have no intentions of using $45 a pound R12 to see if it leaks or not.

I want to convert to 134. I have been searching and it appears of FCP Groton that there is a Aftermarket Retrofit Kit (pn AC51.002K) for $21.95, made by Scan Tech.
Is this all I need to convert over?
They also have a Genuine Volvo Conversion Kit 75-90 (pn9145661), that costs $103.00. Kit 88-90 Includes: ExpValve, Rec. Drier, Oil, & all required seals and decals.

The question is "Do i need to go to this expensive kit or will the aforementioned retrofit kit do the job?"

Thanx In Advance

You could just use some Freeze 12. R-12, environmentally friendly), amulator. I think its a mix of R134 and something like R142.
 
i did it the expensive way. looked at all of them, you get what you pay for. the volvo kit is very complete, instructions are excellent, and imo the best for a diy'r. i mean how much do you save with the stuff thats not included,by having to run out half way through for extra parts, esp if you forget something. also it was built and designed by the same guys that built and designed your car.
 
I did it the improper, cheap bastard way. Went to autozone, bought R134a retrofit kit, followed instructions. Thus far, the car has remained very cold. The very first year I did it back in the summer of 2002, the car remained cold until the end of the season, and I unhooked my compressor that winter, leading to the following spring in which a great portion of refrigerant had leaked out. I'm not sure if it was compressor related, but thats all I did :roll: I refilled again in summer of 2k3, and it was once again, very cold. I just tried it the other day in the springtime GA weather, to be greeted to some nice frosty air coming from my vents so I guess its holding up just fine. Oh yes, I did replace all o-rings in the A/C system, and also replaced the fittings on the dryer unit. I think that is about all you really need. however, you may want to go with the volvo unit, as I learned a very good lesson. It seems that the higher charging pressure behind R134a will work the compressor overtime. There is a great power lag put onto my motor whenver I switch on the compressor which can only be linked to the compressor having to work extra hard to circulate the refrigerant. that issues itself may warrant the purchase of hte volvo kit, which does include a new 134a compressor, does it not?

I will post details on contents and charging pressure when I can get to my car again...
 
Thanx fellas,

Great advice.
:wink:

I got lucky and found out this evening that my friends donor car was converted from R12 to 134a. I got all the parts I need to do the conversion since it was the genuine Volvo kit. He is even going to let me have a compressor that looks almost new....!!!

It has been hitting 80's and 90's in Socal for a few days now and not having AC sucks. Not for long though...

:x:
 
I recently did this to my '90 760, I flushed both the condensor and the evaporator, replaced the dryer, replaced the pressure switch with an R134 type, installed a new smart orifice tube and replace all the o-rings including those at the fire wall and at the compressor. 9 oz of ester oil and 3 cans of R134 and all was cold.

Also the shrader valve located on the dryer where you make the connection for adding freon, had the valve core removed and a new R134 fitting screwed on.
 
Three Fat Tigers said:
I recently did this to my '90 760, I flushed both the condensor and the evaporator, replaced the dryer, replaced the pressure switch with an R134 type, installed a new smart orifice tube and replace all the o-rings including those at the fire wall and at the compressor. 9 oz of ester oil and 3 cans of R134 and all was cold.

Also the shrader valve located on the dryer where you make the connection for adding freon, had the valve core removed and a new R134 fitting screwed on.
what did you do for vacuuming? I was planning on going to an HC based refrigerant, as i wouldnt have to change anything, just a vacuum and fill. I was concerend there was a leak in the system, so just spending 20$ on refrigereant was a good choice for me. Never got around to getting it charged though... so i ended up pulling the whole a/c system. oh well, more air for intercooler.. although now i feel like a ricer.

unrelated note: any small and efficent aftermarket a/c condesors i could use near a fender or at an angle to the main radiators? i'd kinda like a/c back, but i do like a buncha airflow...
 
Back
Top