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Old 03-30-2004, 08:31 PM   #1
Boris740
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Default T5 bits

Here are few pictures of my modified clutch fork and the throw out bearing for the upcoming T5 conversion.

http://www3.sympatico.ca/borism/T5/

It looks little ragged but it fits like a glove. Should I trim the original driveshaft or go for something else?
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Old 03-30-2004, 09:01 PM   #2
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I put something together very similar to your setup, but the t/o bearing wasn't tall enough in the end. When I push the clutch pedal in all the way it doesn't dsiengage the pressure plat and I checked to make sure the fork was moving as far as it could. I pretty sure Doug had the same problem and ended up getting a taller t.o bearing. I ordered some extensions from John Parker so those should fix the problem. Heres a pic of my setup that failed. http://www.pbase.com/image/20112406
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Old 03-30-2004, 09:07 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavoS40
I put something together very similar to your setup, but the t/o bearing wasn't tall enough in the end. When I push the clutch pedal in all the way it doesn't dsiengage the pressure plat and I checked to make sure the fork was moving as far as it could. I pretty sure Doug had the same problem and ended up getting a taller t.o bearing. I ordered some extensions from John Parker so those should fix the problem. Heres a pic of my setup that failed. http://www.pbase.com/image/20112406
Which TO bearing did you use? How tall was it? Was it the same part as mine?
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Old 03-30-2004, 09:11 PM   #4
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Hey guys, the problem with mine was two fold:

The ford TO bearing was not tall enough upon my first attempt so the fork was making contact with the pressure plate, stalling the motor.

attempt 2 resulted in the TO bearing bottoming out on the fork causing it to sieze and stall the motor.

Attemp 3: Some goofy ass tractor TO bearing, welded a plate to the bottom made it tall, works great but rattles.
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Old 03-30-2004, 09:16 PM   #5
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Can't remeber the part # and it's still in the car right now, I don't think it was tha same company but looked identical to yours. I would just get the extensions from JP they were only $26, defianetly worth not having to pull your motor or tranny later(like me).
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Old 03-31-2004, 12:21 AM   #6
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I too got the spacer set from JP, using a stock throwout bearing for the 5.0.
Just got the tranny in today and should be finished up tomorrow morning!
I'll let you know how it goes....
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Old 03-31-2004, 05:15 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noah244ti
I too got the spacer set from JP, using a stock throwout bearing for the 5.0.
Just got the tranny in today and should be finished up tomorrow morning!
I'll let you know how it goes....
I should be installing my T5 today or tomorrow (Thurs) and I too have the spacer set from JP. Noah, please post how the clutch/clutch fork works in your 240 when you get it in. It all looks to me like it should fit fine, but the problems Doug had worry me.
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Old 03-31-2004, 06:22 AM   #8
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just a ?. how would you work it. when you have this type of fork

ignore the pivot point poking through it went nearly 3 weeks ago

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Old 03-31-2004, 02:55 PM   #9
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Sorry, I would have replied earlier but I was out testing my new tranny... hehehe...

Dave, The clutch works perfectly! I'm using the stock pressure plate (for now) with a carbon/organic disc supplied by JP.


My original plan was to have the front section shortened of my m46 driveshaft too, but once I noticed that all my U joints and center support bushing were shot I opted for the one piece. I jot my measurements from Doug (thanks) which were 66 3/8" center to center of the yokes and 3" diameter...
No rubbing whatsoever in the DL tunnel. I know Doug was having some problems with his scraping because his rearend was a little to one side before he adjusted his panhard rod.




1/4" thick plate steel welded to the bottom of the crossmember. Couldn't have been easier.




I'm using the stock ford tranny mount. Works great and helps keep the engine from rocking as much as it did with the stock tranny mount.
Move the crossmember to the farthest back setting and it all lines up perfectly!




I gotta say. the gear ratios on this tranny are absolutly perfect! (I have the 3.35 1st model)
and was a bit worried about the gearing being quite a bit higher than my M46, not a problem at all.

Oh! and the best part... hehe... The (super) short shifter!

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Old 03-31-2004, 03:47 PM   #10
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Alright Noah!!!

How big is that plate btw?
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Old 03-31-2004, 03:57 PM   #11
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Just woundering if the 66 3/8" driveshaft length is thay for a 242, 244 or both? Nice setup Noah I'll probably make my crossmember identicle to yours, it's very simple and clean.
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Old 03-31-2004, 04:12 PM   #12
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it should be the same for all 240's... i have swapped many parts of drive shafts bewteen 240s
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Old 03-31-2004, 04:20 PM   #13
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Noah's DS is an 1/8" of smaller OD than mine, that helps too (mine still rubs a bit, but Im still only running one torque rod).

Looks awsome :D
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Old 03-31-2004, 05:04 PM   #14
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The driveshaft will fit all 240's.... I got my measurements from Dougs 242 : )

Davo, Let me double check the DS length before you go have one made. I wouldn't want to be responsible for your's being wrong... You do need the rear flange (that bolts to your rear end) from your DS to bring into the shop. they wont have one of those.

One other minor problem... the reverse switch on the t5 is reversed, the lights are on all the time and turn off when going into reverse. No biggie though, I'm stoked its done!
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Old 03-31-2004, 05:27 PM   #15
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lol I never even hooked mine up ;)

I bet the m46 reverse switch would bolt in... if not I can help you set up a relay to make it work right ;)
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Old 03-31-2004, 06:38 PM   #16
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Ok... old auto tranny is out and I'm going to start reassembly with the T5 now.

Noah,
Question about the Ford pilot bearing. The old auto pilot bearing came right out of the end of the crank (probably like your manual one did I suppose), but I'm finding the Ford bearing much tighter going in. I think it'll go if I persuade it, but before I use a hammer, I want to check if this is what you found.

Oh, and I think I'm going to shorten the front shaft and keep the two piece setup for now. I actually have the driveshaft I pulled from the donor 240 (where I got the bell housing and pedal box, etc.) The manual trans driveshaft is beefier than the auto trans one.

And that crossmember setup looks to be just right. I was looking at it under my car thinking that might be a possibility. Thanks for paving the way Noah.
Dave B.

Last edited by dbarton; 03-31-2004 at 06:48 PM..
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Old 03-31-2004, 08:58 PM   #17
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I didn't have any problems with my t5 pitot bearing going in at all, it was about the same as my m46 pilot bearing...
When I went to order it I told them it was for an 89 stang, but they should all be the same.
Maybe try to throw some grease on the outside of the bearing to help it get in there.
Good luck and post pic's as soon as its done!
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Old 03-31-2004, 10:43 PM   #18
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mine required some love taps from a hammer (with a board spread across it so it recieved force evenly) no issue on both my 21 and 23ft motors.

Doug
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Old 03-31-2004, 11:07 PM   #19
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Nice pistures and info boys! when t5 time comes I'm definately gonna be consulting this thread!

Thanks!
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Old 04-01-2004, 08:24 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unregistered
mine required some love taps from a hammer (with a board spread across it so it recieved force evenly) no issue on both my 21 and 23ft motors.

Doug
Ok, the love taps worked great. The pilot bearing went in easier than I thought it would.

T5 trans is in.... but I might have a PROBLEM:
I'm not sure yet, but I think I might have a problem with the clutch fork. With the clutch cable adjusted with just a little play it looks like the fork is too far forward. (See pics below... clutch fully engaged, clutch pedal released)

Let me know what you think. The car is a ways off from driving so I don't know if the clutch will completely disengage or not. I cannot get the pedal to push all the way to the floor.

If it won't work I'm faced with two options that I can think of...
1. Remove everything and install a longer pivot for the fork.
2. notch the bell housing (?)
Dave B.


Last edited by dbarton; 08-10-2006 at 05:22 PM..
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Old 04-01-2004, 08:43 PM   #21
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Dave, I had the same problem when I first did mine. I did notch the bellhousing, to no avail.

Did you get the TO bearing adapters from JP? Same as Noahs?

Are you SURE you have the same TO bearing that noah did?
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Old 04-02-2004, 12:43 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snoop Dougy Doug
Dave, I had the same problem when I first did mine. I did notch the bellhousing, to no avail.

Did you get the TO bearing adapters from JP? Same as Noahs?

Are you SURE you have the same TO bearing that noah did?

Yes, same TO bearing adapters (see below) and a standard genuine Ford TO bearing for an 86-93 (I think those are the years) Mustang 5.0.





Last edited by dbarton; 08-10-2006 at 05:26 PM..
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Old 04-02-2004, 12:46 AM   #23
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Dave,
My fork looked exactly like yours. It was really tight and would bottom out on the rubber dust boot before the pedal was to the floor. Cutting the front of the boot off seemed to do the trick though, but still the fork was about 1/4" away from hitting the bellhousing when somebody sat in the car and pushed the pedal down... So its still pretty close, but works perfectly.

Maybe you could notch out the bellhousing while its still on the car with a dremel or something (Just to be on the safe side)
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Old 04-02-2004, 12:59 AM   #24
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Thanks Noah,
I really appreciate it. I guess I'll leave it in and wait until it is running and keep my fingers crossed. Part of the problem is that I have never owned a manual trans Volvo before, so how things go together and how they should look are new things for me.
Dave B.
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Old 04-02-2004, 01:04 AM   #25
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One thing I noticed:

Dave, you and I are both running ClutchNet pressureplates, Noah isn't. Perhaps the throw is different on the ClutchNet ones?

I used a cutoff wheel the first time, makes short buisness out of the aluminum on a bellhousing.

Dave... I thought I was anal when I beadblasted my bellhousing... lol took me a while to realize that it wasn't my eyes, yours is WHITE!
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