home register FAQ memberlist calendar

Go Back   Turbobricks Forums > General > showroom

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-10-2004, 04:54 PM   #1
rzirkle
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Fredericksburg, VA
Default JB Weld for bodywork

Any body ever use JB weld to fill trim holes?? Is it easy enough to grind? Would epoxy with a filler be better? thanks
__________________
Richard
'84 245 Tic 15psi 3" Exhaust, Poly bushings, Coil-Overs,cross drilled rotors, K&N, MSD plug wires, 25/25 Ipd sways,86ed PS and AC.
rzirkle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2004, 12:04 PM   #2
MikeJr.
Gloss Boss
 
MikeJr.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Acworth, GA 30102
Default

Welding up the holes would be the best thing, but if you can't do that than use body filler. Body filler is designed to be primed and painted, and JB Weld isn't.
__________________
My other projects http://www.pbase.com/mikejr
MikeJr. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2004, 01:00 PM   #3
ElPiloto
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Southern Arizona
Default

If you use polyester body filler or JB Weld, they will crack and fall out.

Take the car to a body shop and get them welded with a MIG welder. Then do the finish work yourself (grinding, sanding, priming, painting). You will save some money and have a permanent fix.
__________________
"Four in a row makes it go"
ElPiloto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2004, 03:25 PM   #4
9ine
Guest
 
Default

Ive looked into it with body shops and theyre hesitant to do it, because heat warp in the metal would be a problem with welding. So its not really something they can whip out in a day or two. Plus they said even after, it would need a thin layer of body filler to smooth the inperfections after grinding.

The price tag on doin it right is somewhere around 2000 dollars.
  Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2004, 03:38 PM   #5
Ajax5678
Board Member
 
Ajax5678's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: United States of Canuckistan
Default

Just use fiber glass That's what I did to mine and it's looking good. Use a punch to make the lips of the hole bend in so you get a good surface for the fiberglass to adhear to and make sure it's bare metal and sorta ruff. Best luck to ya
__________________
Car's Currently Owned:
89' Eurospec M5
72' 2002tii
88' 740 GLE


Cyanide & Happiness @ Explosm.net
Ajax5678 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2004, 05:12 PM   #6
ElPiloto
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Southern Arizona
Default

What Ajax5678 is good. Use a small circle of mat, or better yet, cut some mat up and fluff it up so it is individual strands. Mix it in with polyester body filler and fill. Be sure to bump the holes down first though.

If you were anywhere near Tucson, I would fill the holes for you the right way for $100-200. The danger of warpage is small because the holes are on a raised area (like a ridge). The biggest problems with warpage are in the middle of a large flat panel.

$2000 is absurd. What that price means is that they don't want to do it.
ElPiloto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2004, 07:27 PM   #7
Ed Mocz
Board Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Kenosha WI
Default

You could try using an epoxy. Add some of the fiberglass to strengthen it. If you can get behind the hole, try to get it down to bare metal and apply the filler there also. This will make it more of a plug. After getting the filler on both sides of the hole, put a piece of duct tape on the inside to hold it firm while smoothing it on the outside and to get any air out of the mix. I've had some good results with this method. The less that the metal flexes, the better the patch should hold.

Ed
__________________
Ed 1995 855T5R yellow wagon
Ed Mocz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2004, 07:47 PM   #8
CEHepp
FWDFTW
 
CEHepp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Waxhaw, NC
Default

Ive been planning on BONDO. Noones mentioned that here, would this be good to round off that area?
__________________
DD: 2004 S60 on copper Pegs
Race Car: 1995 940 Turbo. Chipped. Manual swap. Fun.
CEHepp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2004, 09:32 PM   #9
rzirkle
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Fredericksburg, VA
Default

Bondo blows, i will try and never use bondo except on shallow dents.

I m a boat worker and do fiberglass to fiberglass repair, but have never done FG to metal repair. I can do that myself really cheap and easy which is good because i have 78 holes to fill(all the trim is going bye) For the people that have done this, have any of you done this have any of you had anyproblems with them? ever? thanks for the good idea
rzirkle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2004, 09:40 PM   #10
Spottty
Board Member
 
Spottty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Calgary, Canada
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ElPiloto
$2000 is absurd. What that price means is that they don't want to do it.

Not really. Think how many holes there are to fill. The shop would charge about $60/hour and that would easily take close to a day to make it look right.

I dont really blame the shop for not wanting to do it, if they warp the panel then they have to fix that and cant charge for it.

I would mig weld it myself but dont get it too hot and let it cool naturally (no water). Once its done it will look good for a long time.
__________________

In The Works!
Spottty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2004, 11:32 AM   #11
mikep
The MP
 
mikep's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: 38° 27' N 75° 29' W
Default

5 minutes to MIG weld 7 holes.

__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by jack View Post
Lando whats your grindr screen name ?
mikep is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2004, 11:51 AM   #12
BLOWN240
Board Member
 
BLOWN240's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: so-cal
Default

I used JB weld to fill a couple body holes that were in my hood. It has been 2 years now and they are startig to crack from the hood being slammed all the time.

Before I started to weld, I took my car to several body shops and I was able to find one that would weld, grind and primer the wholes for $200, as long as I had the door panels and the interior pieces removed first.
BLOWN240 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2004, 01:16 PM   #13
Captain Bondo
Exklusiv Zubehör Klub
 
Captain Bondo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Default

You would really have to try hard to warp a panel. These are spot welds. You shave door handles the same way- "donuts" of metasl in decreasing sizes- spot welded in. Spot weld, spot weld, spot weld, until you have a continuous weld.

To have them welded, ground, and spot puttied, you'd be looking at some money for sure. Another option is to glue trim clips into all the holes- then cut/grind them flush and then touch up with bondo. Easy, cheap, permantent, no special tools. ;)
__________________


-Kenny
(I crushed a 240 with some stuff done to it. Honest.)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordan View Post
Turbobricks isn't a car forum any more. Its a forum for lame kids.
Captain Bondo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2004, 01:38 PM   #14
dirtbike
cutting, welding, bashing
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Cheltenham, UK
Default

I can't see what the issue is with the panel warp, if the shop has a decent welder it will more than likely have a spot weld facility where by you can set the length of time you wish to weld, and more to that point if the guy doing it is a decent welder he'll know how to do the job with out distoring the panel.
let's face it, it's not as if he's trying to do a seemless roof chop it's just a very small trim hole.
and I agree $2000 is a "we don't really want to do the job, but if we charge silly money it'll be worth out while" kind of price.
Laters
Nick
__________________
Volvord Project Thread :http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=184497
1972 Mk1 Escort, B230, 16v, T5/4L60E, 8" Axle, KMS MD35, AIM EVO Datalogger

"Volvord MK1 Escort Project" : http://www.jwbr29544.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/escort
dirtbike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2004, 02:43 PM   #15
n xntrx volvo
Newbie
 
n xntrx volvo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: corinth, ms / los angeles
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Green Death
You would really have to try hard to warp a panel. These are spot welds. You shave door handles the same way- "donuts" of metasl in decreasing sizes- spot welded in. Spot weld, spot weld, spot weld, until you have a continuous weld.

To have them welded, ground, and spot puttied, you'd be looking at some money for sure.
do this but instead of welding braze them, its a non-structural item. brazing is like a cross between welding and soldering, get a benzomatic from home depot some coated rod, and your there, best would be to rent a oxy/acc setup, but if you practice with a benzo you can get it.
__________________
my cars (click me)

I'm not here, Please leave a message after the tone........(or email me).
n xntrx volvo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2004, 08:34 PM   #16
mikep
The MP
 
mikep's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: 38° 27' N 75° 29' W
Default

If you oxy-fuel weld or braze, use mud(heat-absorbant compound) around it to keep it from warping.
mikep is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2004, 03:50 PM   #17
robl245
Board Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Coeur d' Alene, ID
Default

Bondo worked very well for me. I'll I did was take a punch to each hole just a bit, filled and sanded smooth. I sprayed sealer over the metal / bondo surface, then primed and painted (base/clear). I drove the car for next couple of years before I sold it. Never a single crack, not even in the hood or doors.
robl245 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2004, 04:27 PM   #18
n xntrx volvo
Newbie
 
n xntrx volvo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: corinth, ms / los angeles
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikep
If you oxy-fuel weld or braze, use mud(heat-absorbant compound) around it to keep it from warping.
very little chance for wrappage brazing, since your not really melting the base material. its the cheapest perm fix.
n xntrx volvo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2004, 10:30 PM   #19
mikep
The MP
 
mikep's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: 38° 27' N 75° 29' W
Default

I can show you warped metal from brazing on that same ugly brown car.
mikep is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:49 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.