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Old 01-01-2010, 03:17 PM   #1
YellowT5-r
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Default Project 755 - ErrnRRR

So I've had this 1991 745ti since about 1997. Love the car madly. I'd done most of the usual mods, IPD suspension, 15g, MBC, Thelostartof chips, RSI Stage II cam and adjustable cam gear, Unorthodox Racing aluminum crank pulley, etc. Finally put an M90 in the car about 5 months ago and loved that, then my trusty old B230FT went all soft and squishy (read: leak down that would make a porn star blush). Now our other car is a yellow T5-R, and I LOVE that motor, but just don't like the FWD platform. I have been threatening this conversion for years, but as life works, I had the time, but never the $$ to get the job done right. Peter Lissens has been mocking my progress towards this goal for at least the last 2-3 years. Well, I'm finally in a place where I have the $$, but absolutely 0 time (I work between 80-120 hours per week), so enter RSI. Jonathan, the unassuming evil genius, Eric, the only guy with dirty hands in the shop, Pat, who I'm sure does something there, and Mitch, who BBQ's a mean weenie and accepts payments, and tolerates abuse admirable.

The requirements:
A reliable DD that uses as many OEM Volvo parts as possible (ancillary bits at least, hoses, motor mounts, etc.)
With the hood down, the car should look like something a sporty grandpa would drive
Power under the curve before peak - it's a daily driver after all
As much power and torque as we can possibly stuff under the 400 WHP Curve

The plan:

Stage I - Mule motor phase
Transplant a stock, running 5-Cylinder white block into said '91 745
For convenience and cost, we're using a white block M90
New header, turbo, IC, intake, fuel rail, injectors, COP ignition (all being set up for a later built motor), 960 cooling system
MSnS
See what breaks/fix

Stage II - Stupid slick stuff and catchup phase

Slick Stuff:
Teach MSnS how to run Volvo's variable cam timing (I got your V-Tec right here, yo!)
Run the variable exhaust from a +T car and the variable intake from an N/A car (if you're gonna do stupid stuff, you should be really stupid)
Set up MSnS to run a Ford Flex Fuel sensor (hey, E85 is green fuel and lets you build really really stupid motors)
See what breaks/fix

Catch up:
Need better suspension - convert the car to RSI coil overs
Need Moar brakes (most likely an R conversion)
Starch and press drive line - as soon as the car has more than 225 rubber under it, PARTS WILL FLY - not sure what rout we're taking here yet
Daily driver style cage to remove flexy-flier quotient and add safety
Subtle first gen M3 style flares so we can actually put some rubber under a grandpa series
Paint?
See what breaks/fix

Stage III - Stupid motor build
RSI internals
Head work
Custom cams
Balanced within an inch of its life
Dry-sump oiling - cause we can, and if you can, shouldn't you?
Richmond Gear 5 or 6 speed
Relocate motor even further down and back as possible
See what breaks/fix

That's the nickel tour of the project that's only been in the works for about the last 12 years :D.

The following images may be inappropriate for younger viewers, however, be assured that the vehicle in question is over 18 years of age, and is subsequently a legal, consenting adult.

Last edited by YellowT5-r; 03-28-2010 at 12:30 PM..
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Old 01-01-2010, 03:18 PM   #2
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What it is:



What it was:



What it shall be:



Step 1 - Remove defunkt Soviet-era tractor motor:



Step 2 - Start with a good boneyard white block - Sexxay Part A:



Step 3 - Select additional sexxay parts: .60 A/R GT30-R with a new ubersexxay Tial cast stainless hot section capable of efficiently supporting 500HP and sexy enough to give the dead wood. Yes, that's V-band everywhere since there's no pulse pairing joy with a 5-lunger.



Step 4 - Use protection to keep love stains out of said sexxay turbo (Pat is no longer allowed to take this turbo into the bathroom with him :shock: ):



Step 5 - Insert sexxay part A into Brick:



Step 6 - Enjoy convenience of weak-sauce OEM transmission and chassis that has mounting points for EVERY transmission option, even if Volvo never put in the car:



Step 7 - Employ highly skilled fabricator to channel the Fab-fu of Jah hisself:



Step 8 - Figure out a nice way to introduce sexxay part A to sexxay part B - tacked together at this point, some minor tweaks still to be done, but you get the idea:



Step 9 - Introduce sexxay parts A, B, and C to brick to see if they like each other - its love at first sight:





Step 10 - Realize that this intercooler (invisible in this picture cause it's too smaaallll) won't fit around new-ish 960 radiator - order bigger intercooler, 'cause hey! (Observe that 5-cylinder goodness only hangs 1-1/2 cylinders ahead of front axle line - so close to front-mid engine goodness!):



Step 11 - Decide that even though the 5-cylinder is only .2 liters bigger than the old red block, it needs a 75mm throttle body:



Step 12 - Tune in next week!

Last edited by YellowT5-r; 01-05-2010 at 09:07 PM..
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Old 01-01-2010, 03:24 PM   #3
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Awesome!
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Old 01-01-2010, 03:24 PM   #4
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Kick ass.

One thing though, that whiteblock doesn't have a timing belt on it... Are the valves still good?!?!!?
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Old 01-01-2010, 03:25 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by klr142 View Post
Kick ass.

One thing though, that whiteblock doesn't have a timing belt on it... Are the valves still good?!?!!?
It's one of 3 motors being used to make this whole thing work, 2 empty blocks and heads for test fitting.
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Old 01-01-2010, 03:26 PM   #6
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1995 940 Turbo:
531 head, Holset HE351 @ 20 psi, Emusa External Wastegate w/screamer, Mild Steel Header, 4" Downpipe, Ostrich Emulator, IPD Turbo Cam, TTR Cam Gear, Big Piping and Intercooler, 3" Exhaust, V8 T5 soon, Synapse Synchronic BOV, AEM Wideband, 18" Pegasus, B&G Springs, Billy HD's, Chassis Bracing, Sumimoto HTR ZIII 225/40/18
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Old 01-01-2010, 03:32 PM   #7
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that header is awesome.
like the pegs on the wagon
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Old 01-01-2010, 03:34 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by spruill745 View Post
that header is awesome.
like the pegs on the wagon
Sadly, they'll only last a little while (at least until driveline upgrades) 225's should help to keep the car from hooking up and breaking too many parts.

Last edited by YellowT5-r; 01-21-2010 at 08:51 AM..
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Old 01-01-2010, 03:48 PM   #9
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Awesomely awesome
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Old 01-01-2010, 03:59 PM   #10
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beautiful!
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Old 01-01-2010, 04:03 PM   #11
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impressive
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Old 01-01-2010, 04:49 PM   #12
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Looking strangely familiar there.
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Old 01-01-2010, 04:54 PM   #13
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Looking strangely familiar there.
Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery

Last edited by YellowT5-r; 01-01-2010 at 06:25 PM..
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Old 01-01-2010, 05:26 PM   #14
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That looks wicked!!!
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Old 01-01-2010, 06:13 PM   #15
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Hell yeah!
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Old 01-01-2010, 06:58 PM   #16
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Looks like the beginning of an epic build.
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Old 01-01-2010, 07:12 PM   #17
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awsome build! Cant wait to see the finished result. Top work!
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Old 01-01-2010, 07:17 PM   #18
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WANT!!!

It will be nice driving a car with parts making sexaay time with each other as they go.
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Old 01-01-2010, 07:20 PM   #19
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subscribed.
awesome ****ing wagon.
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Old 01-01-2010, 07:22 PM   #20
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Looks tasty.

Make a heat shield for that exhaust side motor mount though or that sucker is done for.


Ready for IPd?

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Old 01-01-2010, 07:51 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Captain Bondo View Post
Looks tasty.

Make a heat shield for that exhaust side motor mount though or that sucker is done for.


Ready for IPd?

Awww, just cause the mount's pretty much wrapped in header tubing? Where's your sense of adventure man?!

Definitely gonna be at IPD, if all's going well, we should be well into Stage II stuffs by then (after fixing various parts that will invariably break).
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Old 01-01-2010, 07:58 PM   #22
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Nice build!

I noticed you mentioned using the variable cam taming? Not sure what year engine you are going to be using but the guys at Race lab fabrications in Houston have dynoed a 2000 V70R engine that they swapped into a '98 S70 T5M and if I remember correctly there was no gain with this. Do some searching on Volvospeed. It's HTownturbobrick's car.
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Old 01-01-2010, 08:25 PM   #23
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Nice build!

I noticed you mentioned using the variable cam taming? Not sure what year engine you are going to be using but the guys at Race lab fabrications in Houston have dynoed a 2000 V70R engine that they swapped into a '98 S70 T5M and if I remember correctly there was no gain with this. Do some searching on Volvospeed. It's HTownturbobrick's car.
It all depends on what you're after and how you plan on getting there. Since the ultimate goal of this motor will be optimization of power under the curve and not sooper high peak numbers, running BOTH intake and exhaust cam timing as independent channels (not simply slaved together advance/retard), we can play with lobe separation for early boost onset and mid-range, then roll into the top end. While it may not affect ultimate power output, it should provide decent gains for low end/midrange and low RPM pseudo boost modulation/bastard traction control ideas that are floating around in my head. Besides, I'll be the first guy on my block with variable cam timing on both bump sticks. If I spent too much time on V-Speed, I'd still be trying to figure out how to get a RIP kit and R manifold to work for my application instead of making moar powah! I already have fakey Pegs.
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Old 01-01-2010, 09:19 PM   #24
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For once I actually agree with 94txabc etc etc whateverhisnameis.

Perhaps you can get some gains running dual VVT but all I can say based on my testing (about 20 pulls on the mustang dyno modifying cam timing in my case, and a few months of street testing) is that generally the settings that gave best low end boost response pretty much gave best peak power as well.

It may be that my boost threshold was so high that it was making change sin the lower rpms that didn't really register on my car, but I did find on the street as well that really agressive settings that gave more peak power and made the car feel like doodoo elsewhere in the rev range didn'ty actually make much more power than the settings that gave the best bottom end.

But, as you know, you've got some work to do before you even need to worry about this i think.
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Old 01-01-2010, 09:45 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Captain Bondo View Post
For once I actually agree with 94txabc etc etc whateverhisnameis.

Perhaps you can get some gains running dual VVT but all I can say based on my testing (about 20 pulls on the mustang dyno modifying cam timing in my case, and a few months of street testing) is that generally the settings that gave best low end boost response pretty much gave best peak power as well.

It may be that my boost threshold was so high that it was making change sin the lower rpms that didn't really register on my car, but I did find on the street as well that really agressive settings that gave more peak power and made the car feel like doodoo elsewhere in the rev range didn'ty actually make much more power than the settings that gave the best bottom end.

But, as you know, you've got some work to do before you even need to worry about this i think.
I'm also wondering if your colossal turbo isn't masking any gains that might be seen by low-end cam timing changes. Sort of a, "I'm givin' her all she's got Captain and she just won't spool yet!" thing. Since I'm running a relatively smaller GT30R, I'm hoping to be able to build a reasonable amount of boost at a much lower RPM range than your setup is presently giving you, and that as a result, my setup might be a little more sensitive to cam timing changes.

Either way, some idiot's gotta give it a try, and I'm game to be just that idiot

As you so rightly say though, we've got a few bridges to cross before we worry about that.
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