"Smokeyfan1000" 1991 244 build thread

[smokeyfan1000]

It's an old family recipe.

190% proof, er I mean 190% correct.

Here's a hint. Don't say or post it if you figure it out though!

[blueinportland]

This is one of my favorite build threads I've seen on the forums. I love the look of the car and the attention to detail. Looks great and I look forward to seeing more. Have you added a VX camshaft yet? Excuse me if you already mentioned anything about that, haven't yet read all the posts!

[boosted12a]

yeah, prop spilled the beans, i saw it before he edited it.....i used to do that mod in high school. same reason, differnt cargo..um, i mean cause i thought it was cool....

[smokeyfan1000]

This is one of my favorite build threads I've seen on the forums. I love the look of the car and the attention to detail. Looks great and I look forward to seeing more. Have you added a VX camshaft yet? Excuse me if you already mentioned anything about that, haven't yet read all the post

Not yet. Probably be next summer/fall before I get to it.

[boosted12a]

why wait so long for the cam? easy swap out

[smokeyfan1000]

All in good time my good man. All in good time. Have other more important things I'd like to do first. Like this................

Ok, After much trial & tribulations, and almost having to sacrifice a goat & a lamb, I finally got the rear seat out. Sure was a lot of work just to find some bug wings, dust, a nut and 1 Quarter circa 1967.

Had to remove rear seat to remove the pressboard partition, between interior & trunk, so it can be covered n black in/out carpet. Four retaining studs have nuts only accessable after you remove the seat.

Remember that "just big enough piece of carpet", I had left over from the side panel and package tray panel? It is time to use it, Pappy. I bought more Loc-Tite 300 Strength spray glue, he other day from Lowes. The same process will be used as was on the package tray panel and trunk side panel.

And I'm hoping to use the grey felt padding material between the top half of seat, and partition also, and maybe on the floorboard's area of the bottom half of rear seat. if it'll fit OK, it should help quieten the rattle of the " 'shine jars". tee hee..

Pics below:
Gratiutious circa 1967 U.S. Quarter...



Both halves removed..



Nuts to be accessed..there are 4 total...



And just enough carpet left to cover the pressboard partition panel. Super Cool.

[kingxcore]

you should paint your ex. mani with high temp ceramic paint.

[Jacobpockros]

Originally Posted by kingxcore

you should paint your ex. mani with high temp ceramic paint.

He knows. There were previous comments of other members saying the same thing since had done everything else in his engine bay.

[smokeyfan1000]

Didn't do it to clean.Matter of fact it was pretty damn clean under there already.

Did it to remove the partition so as to carpet it. And hoping to find a $100.00 Bill ,LOL .

It is a Royal PITA to remove the rear seat. I definately will not ever be doing this again, for love or money. Volvo should have mounted it with 2 or 3 screws. Any of my customers that wants me to remove the rear seat will be charged $100.00. Yep, sure will.

[smokeyfan1000]

you should paint your ex. mani with high temp ceramic paint.
__________________

Screw painting it. "Ex. Mani to Head" gasket is leaking so gotta remove this spring. Gonna have it Jet Hotted if possible, if not,then ceramic coated. Painting them is useless IME, sooner or later it comes off/gets stained.

[Josh]

not if you use "stove bright" paint

[smokeyfan1000]

I've used MIL spec Boiler Paint. Stayed on in places, popped off in places. JetHot Coating or Ceramic Coating is the way to go.....paint is a waste of time.

[Josh]

i understand you believe jethot coating or ceramic coating is the best thing because you have stated it multiple times, but have you actually used stove bright paint on a exhaust manifold before?

[smokeyfan1000]

He knows. There were previous comments of other members saying the same thing since had done everything else in his engine bay.

you should paint your ex. mani with high temp ceramic paint.
__________________

Of course if the two of you would read the whole thread, before posting, I've already stated it's going to be Jet Hotted or Ceramic coated. If it can't be,it'll stay like it is.

[Fraktion]

Originally Posted by smokeyfan1000

Did it to remove the partition so as to carpet it. And hoping to find a $100.00 Bill ,LOL .

It is a Royal PITA to remove the rear seat.

I found $20 in my 780

Really? I think it's pretty easy. First time I sat there like an idiot for like 45 minutes trying to figure it out though

[smokeyfan1000]

i understand you believe jethot coating or ceramic coating is the best thing because you have stated it multiple times, but have you actually used stove bright paint on a exhaust manifold before?

Over the period of around 40 years, I've used everything made to paint exhaust pipes, headers & cast iron manifolds.

Nothing ever stayed on a cast iron mani more than a couple months, if that long. And was stained by rain, or oil from valve adjustments.

I've used VHT, MIL Spec Boiler paint, stove black paint, and every other hi temp paint I could find. None of them lasted very long.

Ceramic, or JetHot is what I'll try next. Maybe I should find out & use whatever NASA uses on the space shuttle's engines.

[smokeyfan1000]

Really? I think it's pretty easy. First time I sat there like an idiot for like 45 minutes trying to figure it out though
__________________

I could see what was holding the seat. The problem was getting to it, and making it come loose from it.. I don't think it'd ever been out before since back when it was a new car.

[smokeyfan1000]

Finished the partition panel...the triangular piece of grey padding goes on after panel is installed for further sound deadening





Cut & fitted the grey felt padding for insulation for sound deadening. Hopefully will help a lot. Have to weigh it too.

[smokeyfan1000]

I need to think about how to fasten/mount the padding to the floor & cross brace. I'd prefer it did not slide about while trying to re-install the seats.

I thought about using plastic push pin fasteners. But the carpeted pressboard partition panel fits flush/flat up against the backside of the metal X Brace. And that leaves no room for the fasteners.

Also thought about using thin fender washers on the studs that protrude through the X Brace, to the interior side, that holds the rear passenger headrest brackets to the partition panel & X Bracing. I really prefer not to glue it, but may have to.

I'm a'thinkin' Pappy, I'm a'thinkin'......Hmmm.

[smokeyfan1000]

not if you use "stove bright" paint

OK, Prove it. Show me a B230F cast iron exhaust mani that's been painted for 10 years with "Stove Bright Paint" and still looks like it did the day it was painted. Show me one.

[boosted12a]

use velcro with the adheasive back to hold the matting down

[smokeyfan1000]

use velcro with the adheasive back to hold the matting down

Thought about that, but unsure if it'd be strong enough and it's glue lets them slide sometimes. Plus unsure if they'l stick to the padding.

But I do have some new ones I bought, to help hold the "ski door" in the partition panel, open when needed.

I think using a fender washer on the headrest bracket's stud would be best IF the studs are long enough. After thinking about it, it'll throw the brackets out of "alignment".

[boosted12a]

the rugh side of the velcro should grab on the the fealt. if your worried about the glue sliding, just get the kind with out it and use super glue to secure the velcrow to the body

[smokeyfan1000]

While reading a thread propav8r posted, I noticed a post by Apachechef, that reminded me that, while I already had the rear seat removed... I could add a second trunk light on the passenger side of the trunk lid.


The the rectangular hole is already there. I just needed to drill a 9/64 hole for the OEM screw I already had in my stash I already had 3 trunk lites, so chose & used the nicest looking one I had.

Nothing to it, but to do it, so I got busy on it, like a Fat Boy eating a muffin

So....... I just ran wire and marked the hole's spot using the light in place to go by.

Then drilled a 9/64th hole for the ground screw, and flipped the mercury switch in the lamp. Notice how the lamp is mounted. This is a must for the mercury switch to work properly.


I got my parts & tools together...



Yep, hole is there...



Ran wire from #8 fuse to light(sorry, fuse #1 isn't in the pic)...along DS rocker panel up to hole where other wires go to trunk.




Came out here..



Ran the wire in Volvo sheathing I had. I also had an OEM green wire I ran across the width of trunk lid and covered it with heat shrink tubing to make it not show, and protect it, too.
It looks OEM,NOS, NIB and Rare, but has no 88 date stamp..





OFF..



ON...Done................

[propav8r]

I would've just tapped into the power wire on the other light...much more easier.

That's where the trunk popper on the early cars gets it's constant 12v power.