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#801 |
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Owner of a Loyal Pit Bull
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: NC
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Seriously afflicted with CVOCD. Link to my build thread : http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=203083 Link To My Oil Temp Sender Drain Plug Thread: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showth...=smokeyfan1000 Link to my B&S Feedback http://forums.turbobricks.com/showth...=smokeyfan1000 |
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#802 |
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IS SEQUESTERED!
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Stuck in the land of sushi.
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nice rusty camber markers
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90 740Ti wit some chit done to eet, and a bunch of chit missing. GOLD 93 945, 353K and still going! WHITE 05 S80, RED 85 RX-7 GSL SE(efi'ed), BLACK 76 Suzuki RE5, BLACK 07 Suzuki SV1000S, BLACK, but turing white slowly |
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#803 |
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Emerged as Ugly Butterfly
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Cub Scout Camp, CA 93405
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__________________
'97 GMC K2500 Suburban 6.5TD - FailBus
'84 245GLT - FailWagon '92 245DL - The iFixit.com Lemons Car '95 850T5R - ButterCup Cheap 2/7/9 Camber Plates! Now w/Weld-In Steel! BrickSpeed - For Making your car fast. Not low. |
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#804 |
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Owner of a Loyal Pit Bull
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: NC
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They aren't rusty. That's 1991 OEM Volvo goldish cad plating (or whatever it's called) on those bad boys. I wish I'd had the extra $$ and time to have all those cad plated items replated like GroupA did on his blue 240(IIRC). But time ran short, as did the $$.
Next is new P/S pump. But have some unexpected things going on right now. One of my Parent's just had a bit of surgery. |
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#805 |
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Board Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Charlotte, NC
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Hope for the best for your folks Mike. Save the PS pump for later -- fix that rusty exhaust manifold.....
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'82 242 5.0L; '08 Cooper Clubman; '00 Accord (M.I.L.'s 42k mile car) |
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#806 |
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Board Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Somewhere In-Between
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POR-15 Billet Aluminum manifold paint is a great look. Easy to brush on, less than an hour including prep. And a bake-out in the kitchen oven at 400 deg F for 2-4 hrs will make it stick and look great for years.
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#807 |
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IS SEQUESTERED!
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Stuck in the land of sushi.
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must be the camera angel or thos pos computer at work. looks like rust. but not as bad as the manifold.....
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#808 |
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Owner of a Loyal Pit Bull
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: NC
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bump
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#809 |
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Board Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: chatham county nc
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Mike, i think thats the first time ive seen a build thread "bumped"
![]() lookin good, much better than the last time i saw it up on jack stands, when you gonna make a trip up this way? |
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#810 |
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Owner of a Loyal Pit Bull
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: NC
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Trying to "keep up with it" as I hope to/plan to post more work sometime soon. If I get time to do any.
I also need to find it quickly for the pics when advising other members . I was wondering when you were coming up to my house. I don't drive too far as of lately . Too much/too many things to do around here. |
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#811 |
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Board Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Morrisville, NC (just outside Raleigh)
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Couple of questions:
Do you have a link for the battery connections you are using? Those are pretty spiffy. For you D motor mounts. When you replaced them did you remove the entire motor mount and bracket? It looks like there are 2 bolts that are accessed from underneath the cross member and then 2 on the motor itself. Is this correct? |
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#812 |
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Board Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Morrisville, NC (just outside Raleigh)
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One more questions (for now). Where did you mount the bosch under bumber fog lights? Is there a bolt in the bumper for the bracket or did you have to drill a hole?
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#813 | |
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Owner of a Loyal Pit Bull
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: NC
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Quote:
I used OEM Volvo DIESEL MMs. I highly recommend them . They are stronger, and do not allow as much engine movement as the regular gas engine MMs I ordered them via phone from FCP Groton Part numbers below, ya have to call FCPG or maybe get them from Tasca Volvo online. Left p/n 1229805 Right p/n 1272346 I think I did remove both MM brackets on each side side,(4 brackets total). Both the 'to engine bracket" and the "to crossmember bracket" . Probably not 100% neccessary but I removed them to clean mine But it seemed to make it easier doing it that way IMHO. You will have to support the engine BEFORE you loosn the motor mounts. You want to support it with the bottle jack, in such a way as there is no "up" force, and no "down" force on them as close as possible. You can adjust up o down when you are fitting the new MMs if needed. I used a block of wood and a bottle jack under the oil pan or bell hsg. IIRC. Postion it before you start. Replace rt & left mounts as a set. Not just replacing one, and not replacing the other. You can support it under the oil pan or bell hsg or transmission.And if you're easy/carefull the oil pan too You will of course have to have the car on 4 jackstands, one at all four jacking points, before placing bottle jack under pan/bell hsg/trans. And you may have to loosen the trans crossmember bolts when installing the new MMs if they don't want to line up. I change one MM at a time. But leave the bolts just a tad loose on crossmember before doing the other side. I do snug the engine block mounts while doing other side though. Then tighten the bottom crossmember bolts last after motor sits on MMs And yes, there are two separate brackets on each motor mount. Be very careful & keep your hands out of harms way while doing MM replacement. Last edited by smokeyfan1000; 08-12-2012 at 06:14 PM.. |
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#814 | |
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Owner of a Loyal Pit Bull
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: NC
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Quote:
The Hella Driving lights on top of bumper I mounted, by just drilling hole in bumper after careful measurements. |
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#815 | |
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Owner of a Loyal Pit Bull
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: NC
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Quote:
And I did 0 surface prepping too.I have a spare ex. mani. I'd like to get it extrude honed, and then Jet Hotted(if ya can Jet Hot cast iron?) I might try the POR stuff though vvpete. Last edited by smokeyfan1000; 08-12-2012 at 06:16 PM.. |
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#816 | |
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Board Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Morrisville, NC (just outside Raleigh)
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Quote:
thanks for the info and your build thread is very usefull and inspirational! |
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#817 | |
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Owner of a Loyal Pit Bull
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: NC
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Quote:
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#818 |
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Board Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Marysville, Wa
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Looks awesome.
__________________
![]() '89 744T, Ebaycooler, ported 90+, .57trim T3/T04E, 16 psi, 3" Exhaust, TurboXS RFL bov, AC delete, accum modded AW71, cut springs, dual sways, camber mod and some nifty gauges. 16v in progress http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=198511 |
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#819 |
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Board Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in my cave...
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Looks better as new!
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#820 |
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Owner of a Loyal Pit Bull
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: NC
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Thanks!. THe weather is cooling down a bit now. Got a few other things left to do. Been waiting on cooler weather to do them.
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#821 |
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Owner of a Loyal Pit Bull
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: NC
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My latest fix on my 1991 240 is:
VOLVO AIR CONDITIONING BRRRRRRRRRRRRRR ![]() I took my 1991 240 to Maxwell Volvo today & for $185.85 I now have my air conditioner evacuated, vacuumed, charged, and it's blowing cold air with 134a refrigerant. ![]() ![]() NOW....Let all of us, hope that all the new O rings, new A/C hoses, and the new filter drier, I installed last year, do not leak and the A/C holds the charge, and also, that the @ 1 year old, little used current A/C compressor lives a long life. Let Us Pray Now............ I also let them clean the throttle body while it was there. It needed it , I so let them go ahead & do that. That was $112.51. I really need to learn to do that myself next time. Anyone have hints or advice on that? BTW, lots of Volvo sales people were eyeballin' my "clean obsessive compulsive disorder 240" I received many compliments on it. And they were genuinely impressed with my work. Sorta makes all the hard work and $$ worthwhile I suppose. Last edited by smokeyfan1000; 08-15-2012 at 05:40 PM.. |
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#822 |
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hooptieswag
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: portland, OR
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Cleaning throttle bodies are very simple. Just remove the intake piping, then remove the 3 bolts on the throttle body and clean it with a stiff brush and carb cleaner. Then replace the gasket and reassemble everything. Usually takes about 20 minutes and a new gasket is like 3 or 4 bucks iirc
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#823 |
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Board Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Tampa, FL
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I know how you feel Mike, your car certainly draws LOTS of attention wherever it goes. What type of AC compressoro are you running? r.
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#824 |
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Owner of a Loyal Pit Bull
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: NC
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A/C PERFORMANCE UPDATE
My 1991 240 is a R12 system converted to a R134a system I drove a distance of 5 miles on the highway with my A/C/Refrigeration Thermometer placed in the center dash vent, and A/C fan on High Position.. Within 2 miles A/C is blowing 42F* cold air out, and at 5 miles into the trip, it was blowing out 38F* cold air Not bad, IMO, for a converted to R134a system. How do these F* Specs compare with some of you other TBers 134a, A/C Temps? Last edited by smokeyfan1000; 08-15-2012 at 05:36 PM.. |
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#825 | |
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Owner of a Loyal Pit Bull
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: NC
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Quote:
It's blowing 38F* air.![]() When I bought the car, Kaj said the A/C Compressor was about 9 months old, as he had it replaced recently before I bought the car .I think it's a Sanyo brand?? Not sure on that though. But it is a stock, but rebuilt compressor common to the 86-93?? 240s. It's the "horizontal type" , and not the upright/verticle York compressor of earlier 78-85?? 240s. After I bought the car, I drove car around 2 weeks before it lost charge due to either, broken MMs loosening/breaking the hose at the compressor and /or running over a Transfer truck recap laying in road one night. Was no room/ time to miss it. So compressor has 1 year on it at most. I'm hoping the compressor will last me 2-4 years, but we'll see................but in the meantime, I'll be chillinger like Dillinger. |
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