Add power door lock actuation from pass. side

So, I have a '93 240 and was wondering what it would take to add power door lock actuation from passenger side. This would make peace with the family! Thanks for any advice!!!

If you want to be able to pull up/push down on the lock button, or operate the PDL with the passenger door key, I think you would have to order the right side door lock switch component from England. Otherwise all you would need is a simple momentary push button for unlock and another for lock. Best thing IMO, get a keyless entry kit. No matter which method, if you want the driver's door to lock and unlock from any remote switch or remote control, you will need a front passenger door PDL motor and linkage, you then flip the motor over in it's bracket and install it the same way as on the passenger side, then run a couple of new wires to the PDL relays.

I've got keyless entry on my '92, was very easy to install.

Power door lock actuation

I was looking at the keyless on IPD for $85 http://www.ipdusa.com/ProductsCat.aspx?CategoryID=553&NodeID=830&RootID=629 ...which brand did you use? ordering the right side door lock switch component from England and installing sounds nuts for just that conconvenience!

I just used a cheap bulldog remote start/keyless kit, was extended range and had two remotes, I say cheap because the remotes look a bit cheap, thing cost 90$ back then. Now they go for 40$ or less on ebay. The IPD kit looks ok and it does come with some sort of motor for the driver's door, I'd still want to use a factory door motor setup.

My '92 setup is a bit more complicated, as I included some mods: to unlock I have a relay that unlocks only the driver's door and the tail gate, then the option button (used for trunk on a sedan) is used to unlock all 5 doors. Locking always locks all 5 doors. It's very nice and turns on the parking lights and interior light. Only thing I dont like is that the bulldog remotes use only one main button to lock / unlock, so the only way you 100% know for sure the car is locked is to watch the behavior of the parking lights. Where as if I had a dedicated lock button, I could press it as I was walking away, not looking back, and know they were locked as I could hear the motors running.

I have an Autoloc kit on my '84 242, it has the dedicated lock/unlock buttons, you press both to pop the trunk.

My future plan is to have a timer circuit that will close or open the windows if you press lock or unlock twice within 4 seconds or so, maybe also a circuit to beep the horn for a micro second upon locking.

Keyless is a must have

I have an IPD keyless entry was an easy install, I even wired in a headlight relay to open the trunk. It works great...

IPD keyless entry

18yr240t said:

I have an IPD keyless entry was an easy install, I even wired in a headlight relay to open the trunk. It works great...

Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up on the IPD kit - I'm going to buy that and if I want to lock all doors from the passenger side, I'll reach over and press the clicker hanging from the ignition!

You could also put a pair of push buttons in a switch blank on the center dash console, in the image below I installed 4 lit buttons, the right pair control the PDL, the left two are for my GDO and sub:

Power door lock actuation

Soooo.....Three fat Tigers.........Love that cluster! Back to my original qustion when all I wanted to do was add Power door lock actuation from the passenger side - is your button tied into the keyless??? or into the stock system...I'm sure it's gotta be into the keyless with an additional relay, right??? on another topic, why isn't the carpeted covering under the dash drooping down on your car??? When I have my foot on the gas pedal the covering is sitting on my toe!

The buttons simply ground the cars factory PDL relays located just below the center dash vents, one for unlocking, one to lock. When you activate the drivers door PDL switch it is also simply grounding those relays, only one at a time mind you.

The under dash cover is not drooping because my car only has 47k miles on it but other than that it is attached to the fire wall using large plastic clips to hold it up. As for mods, I've installed foot well lighting in each cover (you can see the passenger side light above), w/stainless steel reflectors (measuring cups from the kitchen ) the install looks factory. If even attached correctly your covers are drooping, you can take some hanger wire and bend it around then simply hand sew it using black thread to the back side, this will reinforce the cover and make it like new again.

Power door locks

47k not fair! Stainless steel reflectors? Wow that is cool! I'll be pulling the under dash cover and tryin' your coat hanger trick! There appears to be two relays - one to open and one to lock. The switches you used must just give a momentary ground correct? Could you link to an example and how did you tie it in to the relay? This would fit my budget for now...Thanks for taking the time and sharing your expertise!

The switches do just momentarily ground each relay. I've uploaded the wiring diagram here that also show the location of the relays here:
http://www.threefattigers.com/Protocore/Temp/Volvo92-240PowerDoorLocks.zip
To access the relays I'd recommend removing the glove box and the the center dash vents, then you can remove the plastic duct that connects the center vents and pull it out through the glove box opening. If you look at the diagram, the wires you want to ground are the terminal #85 of each relay which are the green and red wires, just tap into these wires and run them down to your momentary push buttons.

power door lock actuation

Tired of me yet Mr. Tiger? I located the two relays; I can feel it click if I lock/unlock. I went to Radio Shack and got two small switches and a couple wire taps, so I'm good to go on that front! But, you know I got to thinkin', I'm still not going to have driver door activation without that actuator. I went to a local radio install shop and for like $20 I can get a two wire actuator and the hardware to install it, but you said to go with a factory one. Maybe I should go to a salvage yard and pull one, but I was wondering from which door? Would that also be a two wire? And you know what the next question is going to be - Where to tie the actuator in at to operate with the PDL system? Rely terminal #85 of each is what it looks like from the diagram but that wouldn't give me power....Thanks a bunch

The factory one is possibly simpler to install. You would want one from a front passenger door complete with the motor, the nuts or screws that hold it to the door, the connecting rod and the black metal retainer clips at both ends of the connecting rod. I'd also grab the connector + some wire (aka pig tale) off the door so you wouldn't have to cut the connector off the motor.

If you come across a 242 turbo with PDL, it would have a motor in the driver's door.

From the wiring diagram you can clearly see that each motor has one wire connected to each relay's #30 terminal, the polarity is important but the wiring colors should be the same for reference and you can always test it before putting back the door panel.

Running the wires for the motor: you will need to remove the kick panel surrounding the fuse panel, and then remove the bolts/screws holding the fuse panel to the side of the car (disconnect the battery). Then behind that is a sheet of tar paper that you would need to pull away in order to access the rubber loom for the door's wiring harness. It's not too hard to add in new wires. On my car I ran new heavier speaker wires and used the original speaker wires for the PDL motor. Actually I would recommend using speaker wire versus the make up wire you can buy at an auto parts store, when running wires where they need to bend regularly you want wire with lots of filaments, the more filaments the more flexible and durable. Personally I'd be reaching for some 18 gauge Belden meter lead wire I have, you can usually buy this by the foot in red, black, green and white at local electrical supply stores, well at least red & black, it is used for hand held multimeter test leads and has a nice silicone rubber jacket which, besides being more flexable and heat resistant, is less likely to cause any rattles.

power door lock actuation

So I got the wiring done pat for the new actuator from your explaination. Which terminal (color wire) is grounded on each relay to operate the system from my switches I?m installing in the dash? This mod will keep peace in the family so anyone up front can open/close the locks!

Three Fat Tigers said:

If you look at the diagram, the wires you want to ground are the terminal #85 of each relay which are the green and red wires, just tap into these wires and run them down to your momentary push buttons.

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I'll bet the colors are the same on your year model as on the diagram I posted, however I would still verify that the wires you are tapping are for terminal #85 on each relay. On the bottom of the relay there will be small numbers marked next to each terminal (you would have to unplug it to see them), and/or on the side of the relay will be a diagram.

jbs said:

Couple more questions my friend! I couldn't find a pass. side actuator at the yard, so I ordered the keyless kit from IPD. Figuring if I spend $20 for a new actuator I might as well spend $80 (I bought it during their garage sale) and go keyless. I still want the buttons so it is handy to lock & unlock. If I ground #85 of each relay will that unlock the drivers side??? or will it need another relay? Thanks a million for all that you do!!! JBS
Jim

Click to expand...

The IPD kit will come with everything you need to install, including instructions. You will hook up the new actuator the same as any of the other actuators shown in the diagram.

Each power door lock motor has two wires, one wire is connected to the #30 contact of one relay, the other wire is connected to the #30 contact of the other relay. When the PDL relays are at rest (as in you are not using them) each relay connects it's #30 terminal to ground, so all the motors see is ground at both wires. When you activate a relay, it connects it's terminal #30 to 12V+. So with both relays off: both wires see ground and nothing happens, and with both relays on: both wires see 12V+ and nothing happens (there you can see that both relays were not designed to be operated at the same time, though it does no harm).

Activating only the first relay will send 12V+ and ground to the motors, activating only the opposite relay will will do the same as the first relay but with reverse polarity.

So ground one relay terminal #85 at a time to lock and unlock.

power door lock actuation?

Installed the IPD keyless today on our '93 240 - which is a Crime Stopper unit. all went well, I tied in the dome light, the parking lights & the horn - but I found that the horn won't give me a chirp because the horn doesn't work unless the key is on. So I'll need another relay to supply positive in addition to the neg, side for that to work. I also wanted to hook up the lock/unlock on the dash but got to thinking with the IPD instructions I think the whole system depends on the drivers side actuator to operate the whole system. Instead of tying the keyless into the cars relays you do the following...note the 6-pin hook up where the unlock & lock normally open wiresare tied together then the unlock & lock normally closed wires are tied together
INSTALLATION
Wiring the Module 12 Pin Harness
Attach the 12-pin harness to the module. If you would like to incorporate any of the other features read the manual and wire accordingly.
For the Keyless Entry attach the Red wire to a fuse that provides 12V all the time, with and without the ignition on (or wire directly to the battery as the in line fuse will protect the module). Use a test light to find applicable power sources. Attach the black wire to a good chassis ground using a ring connector. Attach a spade connector to the yellow wire that is used for programming.
Wiring the Module 6 Pin Harness
Wire the 6 pin harness to the actuator by connecting the Blue/Black wire of the relay harness to the Blue wire of the actuator motor and the Green/Black wire of the relay to the green wire of the actuator. Use the wire butt connectors. Connect the fused Violet and the Violet/Black wire of the relay pack to a constant 12v source. The source must be on all the time with and without the ignition key on. If you cannot find a suitable fuse, both the red wire of the module as well as the violet wire of the relay pack can be connected directly to the battery as they each have an inline fuse. Connect the White/Black and the Brown/Black together and attach with a ring terminal. Attach ring terminal to a good chassis ground.
How can I get this to work as you did from the switches on the dash, thanks...

So what you are saying is this kit is independent of the car's PDL system, it activates the car's system by the fact that when it operates it also moves the driver's built in door PDL switch, which in turn operates the other door's PDL motors. Great! Well short of seeing a schematic or a clearer description of what each wire is connected to, I'm not sure what to do, though I know a solution can be found, I just cant quite make out what each wire is for from those instructions. Did the kit come with any kind of diagram showing the connections? If so and I could get a look at that, I could come up with something.

Ah, I found this: http://www.crimestopper.com/diagrams.html Now if I just knew which model is was.

Three Fat Tigers said:

Ah, I found this: http://www.crimestopper.com/diagrams.html Now if I just knew which model is was.

Click to expand...

Model #CS-865 RKE and followed the instructions given to me by IDP Which I copied into my previous post), not the Crimestopper instructions