1967 122s Restoration

240 JAH · 09-22-2010, 02:43 AM

CLICK HERE TO SEE PHOTOS OF THE PROJECT

To start I bought this car in early 2007 for something like $998 on ebay. It sat at my parents until 2009 then sat at knoxmotorsports until May of 2010, Lawrence did a full check out of the car for me and was hanging out to it until I decided what route to go on the restoration.

I bought a house in April 2010 with a large Garage, so the 122 got a nice home in the garage now

.

The car does have a bit of rust but nothing major. I just need to weld up a few things like front floor pans. Not a big deal though, considering I have been a sheet metal mechanic/welder for quite a few years now.

I still don't know exactly where I am going to end up with the car but for starters I am pulling the car apart and fixing everything on it. I want to keep the b18 in it running well but Lawrence @ knoxmotorsports is going to help me build a s40 1.8t motor to put in it. I might end up restoring this one and buying another 122 body and then putting the s40 in that, but like I said I am not 100% sure where this 122 will end up.

When I bought the car it came with two truck beds full of parts, including two brand new fenders, brand new volvo emblems, brand new seat supports. It also came with many multiple parts one of which I used to rebuild for a refurbished hydraulic clutch set up. I have actually done a good bit of work to the car prior to this thread, on the SU carbs and on the hydraulic clutch system.

I wanted to post a bit more history of the car:
sale-wy6md-1964722069@craigslist.org...craigslist.org is an awesome resource that allowed me to research the specifics on the car.

Type
1=Sedan
3=two door body
2=B16 or B18D (this model came with a B18D)
4=Export (USA & CANADA)
4=M40 or M40G (not too sure which exact M40 I have on it right now)
1=Left steering wheel position
M=1967

Colour 19 (Black)

Upholst=424-551 (red leatherette) This has me wondering now, because there is a perfect matching black leatherette interior that was in the car and there was no signs that it was swapped from another car. So the code on my plate sais the car came with red leatherette but in fact it is all black. I still have all of the interior it's just being stored upstairs in my Garage. The seats are correct for 1967 though being without headrest which the export cars did not get until 1968. http://www.volvoamazonpictures.se/up...pholstery.html

The production Chassis number is 220430 and the body number is 220697 Indicating that it was a P130 body type made in 1967.

So the 122s is almost 100% perfect match so far minus the interior.

Check out the car on http://www.volvoamazonpictures.se/ and Facebook it is also registered on the Chassis Database

I have a bunch of cool parts for it including some new ones from the UK a few years back.

ceramic coated Phenolic spacers, stub stacks, and gaskets for the SU Carbs. Aluminum timing gear, New driveshaft bearing (which Moores volvo actually have in stock a few years back).
The SU carb stuff I got from http://aptfast.com/ it took a little while for them to get it from the UK but worth it.

I picked up 4 mint hubcaps at one of the dyno meets

gotta love the license plate floor pans... honestly put some carpet down and no one would know. It's a great cheap fix but I'm a welder, so I will fix it right.

8 of these came with the car

These volvo runners are going to polish up nice, another great internet buy

Not too sure what this goop is but it was used all over the car to seal metal that buts together. It did a great job of protecting most of it from rust. Any one have the answer?

Volvo244GLE · 09-22-2010, 07:23 PM

be interesting to see how you progress with this, a 122 is definately on my list of cars id like to own one day.

Sir Psycho · 09-22-2010, 07:31 PM

I believe that's butyl, seen here:

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=198069

240 JAH · 09-22-2010, 08:28 PM

looks like you are right Sir Psycho... it looks to be Butyl Rubber. Wonder if I should use it again. It seems to have held up over the years.

Both fenders are off now and the goo has been scraped off, I also wire wheeled any surface rust off and cleaned the area. I am just going to keep pulling parts off piece by piece and strip it down to the bare metal. I want to paint it the original code "19" BLACK. The Bumpers are in good condition I just need to pull them off and have them re-plated.

If anyone has good painting advice let me know. Would an enamel be better than a normal base coat clear coat?

I want to wait as long as I can before I pull the engine out because the car is still drivable.

240 JAH · 09-23-2010, 01:32 AM

Added some information about the car on the First post. It seems I will have to do just a little bit of shopping around to make it 100% original to the year and codes.

MikeJr. · 09-23-2010, 09:57 PM

Welcome to the club! I am also restoring a 122.

I would suggest basecoat clearcoat paint. It it much better in all ways.

Keep up the good work.

Mike

240 JAH · 09-23-2010, 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeJr.

Welcome to the club! I am also restoring a 122.

I would suggest basecoat clearcoat paint. It it much better in all ways.

Keep up the good work.

Mike

Thanks Mike!

I remember buying a set of CIBIE truck lights off of you for my 240... such awesome lights

thanks again!

MikeJr. · 09-23-2010, 11:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 240 JAH

Thanks Mike!

I remember buying a set of CIBIE truck lights off of you for my 240... such awesome lights

thanks again!

Wow that was a while back! I'm glad you like em

quillc · 09-24-2010, 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 240 JAH

Not too sure what this goop is but it was used all over the car to seal metal that buts together. It did a great job of protecting most of it from rust. Any one have the answer?

Its old school seam sealer. It never really wears out, but the newer seam sealer products are much better at keeping the water out. You just brush it on. The older stuff is still available at parts stores as well. Its just a PITA to install.

240 JAH · 09-25-2010, 11:13 PM

That's great to know quillc, thanks!

I can't believe it has held up so well over the years. I've got to get rolling on this project or all the other 122 guys are gonna blow by me haha ;). Glad to see so many other old school Volvos getting restored. I am going to pull the bumpers off next week and strip some more paint areas and start welding some spots.

http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/volvo.html So I found this place that has parts, fiberglass and steel but they don't have some. I am wondering if anyone knows of anyone who sales the front area of the car that holds the grills in. Mine is in tact but it has some rust in areas that are hard to repair. I can do it but much easier to just buy a part.

Thinking about having the bumpers plated "black chrome" like these wheels

but still not sure.

seeing all of the other projects and some of the guys making their cars look really great but not original makes me want to steer away from original more and customize the car the way I want it.

MikeJr. · 09-26-2010, 08:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 240 JAH

http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/volvo.html So I found this place that has parts, fiberglass and steel but they don't have some. I am wondering if anyone knows of anyone who sales the front area of the car that holds the grills in. Mine is in tact but it has some rust in areas that are hard to repair. I can do it but much easier to just buy a part.

Try www.vp-autoparts.com they are a swedish company with a location in SC. They have just about everything you need. I lucked out and found a NOS front section (not from them but from a local volvo place). It still had the Volvo part labels on it

Quote:

Originally Posted by 240 JAH

seeing all of the other projects and some of the guys making their cars look really great but not original makes me want to steer away from original more and customize the car the way I want it.

Inside and out I am keeping mine as stock looking as possible. I just want a modern drivetrain.

BoostIt · 09-26-2010, 11:52 AM

If you're looking for good prices, great service, and quick shipping, try Olof at www.vintageimportparts.com. He's West Coast, but I've ordered all my 122 parts from him. He has full catalogs with original part numbers and good diagrams on his site. He had the best prices on gaskets by far...hope this helps.

And he's great about returns or exchanges. One of my vent window gaskets was a little messed up so he replaced it for free and I got to keep the defective one as a spare

stylngle2003 · 09-27-2010, 04:18 PM

josh, if you need butyl, we have a whole box of it, in 1/2" thick round

240 JAH · 09-27-2010, 05:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stylngle2003

josh, if you need butyl, we have a whole box of it, in 1/2" thick round

Good deal, but you might need it for the 1800? I am sure that is what you will find when we take off the fenders. I have to get with you guys anyways for some seals on the 88.

240 JAH · 09-28-2010, 02:35 AM

Pulled the tail lights out, the license plate light/latch and the bumper off the car tonight.
The bumper was bent and I am going to need to buy a new one.

stripped the paint where there was rust... I will eventually cut out the rusted areas and stitch in new sheet metal

LOOK AT THE "PEASHOOTER" Exhaust ;) crazy thing is when it runs it has no leaks!!

Yup it's bondo starting to crack

...and turns into this

...and then this

No worries though I cleaned it up and will soon work it out.

Trunk is pretty clean, not much rust. I took the gas tank out 3 years ago because it has a leak in it that I will have to fix... although I might just build my own aluminum one. I use a Large boat gas tank to run the car when I want to drive it.

YEAAAA MAN, bumping the jams in the single speaker haha

A wire wheel on a grinder and a die grinder work wonders

. so far I have only had to drill out one little screw that was in the headlight bezel. All the other bolts and screws have come right out with out any problems.

This little buddy came to visit me! I had the side garage door open and it was raining tonight and he decided to come in and check out the project. I took him and put him in a better place by some rocks near my house. He is a Red Spotted Newt and eats bugs so he's my best friend now ;)

you can see the rest of the images of the newt here

Every time I add new photos I add them to the Album as well.

GT_Paul · 09-28-2010, 07:13 AM

Nice.
Did you order those SU filters?
I recommend http://www.por15.com/
For treating all the rust repairs. awsome stuff

240 JAH · 09-28-2010, 07:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by maxpsi

Nice.
Did you order those SU filters?
I recommend http://www.por15.com/
For treating all the rust repairs. awsome stuff

I haven't ordered The filters yet but I am definitely going to! I am so glad that SU carbs are still so popular. It did take a while for me to get parts from England for them a few years back though, only because they were on backorder though.

Ever heard of these guys? http://aptfast.com/ that is where I got all of my SU parts a few years back.

stylngle2003 · 09-28-2010, 10:40 AM

also, josh... FYI these are some more links for body parts. using them for the 1800

http://www.swedishtreasures.com/122toc.html

http://irollmot.ipower.com/oscom/ind...0f6a8a27508eda

http://www.cvi-automotive.se/en/articles/4442/bodywork

F13ND · 09-28-2010, 01:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeJr.

Try www.vp-autoparts.com they are a swedish company with a location in SC. They have just about everything you need. I lucked out and found a NOS front section (not from them but from a local volvo place). It still had the Volvo part labels on it

Just about?

You could build an amazon from parts!!!

240 JAH · 10-14-2010, 12:35 AM

I really need to get rolling on this again. I started another project on my 74 bultaco alpina 350 as well, now both the 122 and bike are apart. Got sick this week and have a lot to do on the house and the 244. Fun fun fun

240 JAH · 03-06-2011, 11:25 AM

I'm starting to get back into restoration mode and brought this jewel home to inspire me ;)
Gonna restore it as well.

240 JAH · 05-16-2012, 12:11 AM

It's been a while since I touched the 122 but I started organizing parts yesterday and bought one of my final pieces for the restore last week. I am hoping to get some time in the garage next week. So far 4 tractors and the 244 have had me busy for a while. More
Photos to come soon.

Btw the 66 4 door I brought home in the above photo is now deemed my donor car for some parts at least. It was too far gone really to try and restore.

240 JAH · 06-21-2012, 01:00 PM

I'm updating the status on the 66' 122

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=260679

I can't bring myself to just strip it and leave it so it becomes the rat rod... Well you can read more there.

I'm still in the process of organizing parts and the Garage at the moment. I was hoping to have insulted my garage by now so I could put a central air system in it or at least window units for the time being but it just hasn't worked out that way.

Within the next 2 weeks there will be a good update on this project and the rod project I promise!

240 JAH · 06-21-2012, 03:29 PM

This section needs to be cut out. As you can see above, a bondo like material was caked over it. I'm talking with Paul here on TB about getting some sections of his doner cars. I want to take the car down to bare metal all the way around and start front scratch. That is what I will be doing soon here. Heck I may even try and strip some more tonight.

The rear trunk as you can see in photos above is rusted pretty good and the trunk, aka "boot" for you Brits, off the 66' is in good condition. I will swap that soon.

I also need to send the B20 to the machine shop and start a build on it.

I need to have a Volvo work party and get some help for beer and Pizza! Who's in ?

I need you guys to keep me motivated with ideas and positive reinforcement lol.

Fivehundred · 06-21-2012, 05:37 PM

Don't cut that area out, panel beat it. Look up Wray Schelin shrinking disk and get a slapper and a decent dolly.

09-22-2010, 02:43 AM	#1
240 JAH Bluegrass/Celtic Junkie Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Richmond, VA	1967 122s Restoration CLICK HERE TO SEE PHOTOS OF THE PROJECT To start I bought this car in early 2007 for something like $998 on ebay. It sat at my parents until 2009 then sat at knoxmotorsports until May of 2010, Lawrence did a full check out of the car for me and was hanging out to it until I decided what route to go on the restoration. I bought a house in April 2010 with a large Garage, so the 122 got a nice home in the garage now . The car does have a bit of rust but nothing major. I just need to weld up a few things like front floor pans. Not a big deal though, considering I have been a sheet metal mechanic/welder for quite a few years now. I still don't know exactly where I am going to end up with the car but for starters I am pulling the car apart and fixing everything on it. I want to keep the b18 in it running well but Lawrence @ knoxmotorsports is going to help me build a s40 1.8t motor to put in it. I might end up restoring this one and buying another 122 body and then putting the s40 in that, but like I said I am not 100% sure where this 122 will end up. When I bought the car it came with two truck beds full of parts, including two brand new fenders, brand new volvo emblems, brand new seat supports. It also came with many multiple parts one of which I used to rebuild for a refurbished hydraulic clutch set up. I have actually done a good bit of work to the car prior to this thread, on the SU carbs and on the hydraulic clutch system. I wanted to post a bit more history of the car: sale-wy6md-1964722069@craigslist.org...craigslist.org is an awesome resource that allowed me to research the specifics on the car. Type 1=Sedan 3=two door body 2=B16 or B18D (this model came with a B18D) 4=Export (USA & CANADA) 4=M40 or M40G (not too sure which exact M40 I have on it right now) 1=Left steering wheel position M=1967 Colour 19 (Black) Upholst=424-551 (red leatherette) This has me wondering now, because there is a perfect matching black leatherette interior that was in the car and there was no signs that it was swapped from another car. So the code on my plate sais the car came with red leatherette but in fact it is all black. I still have all of the interior it's just being stored upstairs in my Garage. The seats are correct for 1967 though being without headrest which the export cars did not get until 1968. http://www.volvoamazonpictures.se/up...pholstery.html The production Chassis number is 220430 and the body number is 220697 Indicating that it was a P130 body type made in 1967. So the 122s is almost 100% perfect match so far minus the interior. Check out the car on http://www.volvoamazonpictures.se/ and Facebook it is also registered on the Chassis Database I have a bunch of cool parts for it including some new ones from the UK a few years back. ceramic coated Phenolic spacers, stub stacks, and gaskets for the SU Carbs. Aluminum timing gear, New driveshaft bearing (which Moores volvo actually have in stock a few years back). The SU carb stuff I got from http://aptfast.com/ it took a little while for them to get it from the UK but worth it. I picked up 4 mint hubcaps at one of the dyno meets gotta love the license plate floor pans... honestly put some carpet down and no one would know. It's a great cheap fix but I'm a welder, so I will fix it right. 8 of these came with the car These volvo runners are going to polish up nice, another great internet buy Not too sure what this goop is but it was used all over the car to seal metal that buts together. It did a great job of protecting most of it from rust. Any one have the answer? __________________ 66' 122 4dr (Project RAT ROD) /67' 122s (P132441M) / 88' 244DL / 86' 245GL all MTs of course PHOTO GALLERY EBAY Handle: Guitarphotoman Seller/Buyer feedback 1967 122s Restoration Thread Last edited by 240 JAH; 09-28-2010 at 02:07 AM..

09-22-2010, 07:23 PM	#2
Volvo244GLE Board Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Sydney, Australia	be interesting to see how you progress with this, a 122 is definately on my list of cars id like to own one day. __________________ 244GLE Project - The fun daily driver. Rebuilt B23, ported 405, 37.5 exh. valves, BMW oil squirter's, MS2e, VX3 cam, King Springs, Bilstein HD's, upper+lower chassis braces, 26mm Falcon front sway bar, 21+19=24mm rear sway bar, SAAS bucket seats, hi flow rear muffler, almost every factory option. 164 Project - The impulse buy 242GT Project - who likes rust?

09-22-2010, 07:31 PM	#3
Sir Psycho holstrich 2.0 Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: NC State University	I believe that's butyl, seen here: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=198069 __________________ Isaac 1995 940 Turbo: Holset HE351 @ 20 psi, Emusa External Wastegate w/screamer, Mild Steel Header, 4" Downpipe, Ostrich Emulator, IPD Turbo Cam, TTR Cam Gear, Big Piping and Intercooler, 3" Exhaust, V8 T5 soon, Greddy BOV, AEM Wideband, 18" Pegasus, B&G Springs, Billy HD's, Chassis Bracing, Sumimoto HTR ZIII 225/40/18

09-22-2010, 08:28 PM	#4
240 JAH Bluegrass/Celtic Junkie Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Richmond, VA	looks like you are right Sir Psycho... it looks to be Butyl Rubber. Wonder if I should use it again. It seems to have held up over the years. Both fenders are off now and the goo has been scraped off, I also wire wheeled any surface rust off and cleaned the area. I am just going to keep pulling parts off piece by piece and strip it down to the bare metal. I want to paint it the original code "19" BLACK. The Bumpers are in good condition I just need to pull them off and have them re-plated. If anyone has good painting advice let me know. Would an enamel be better than a normal base coat clear coat? I want to wait as long as I can before I pull the engine out because the car is still drivable. Last edited by 240 JAH; 09-23-2010 at 07:33 PM..

09-23-2010, 09:57 PM	#6
MikeJr. Gloss Boss Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Acworth, GA 30102	Welcome to the club! I am also restoring a 122. I would suggest basecoat clearcoat paint. It it much better in all ways. Keep up the good work. Mike __________________ My other projects http://www.pbase.com/mikejr

09-23-2010, 01:32 AM	#5
240 JAH Bluegrass/Celtic Junkie Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Richmond, VA	Added some information about the car on the First post. It seems I will have to do just a little bit of shopping around to make it 100% original to the year and codes.

09-25-2010, 11:13 PM	#10
240 JAH Bluegrass/Celtic Junkie Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Richmond, VA	That's great to know quillc, thanks! I can't believe it has held up so well over the years. I've got to get rolling on this project or all the other 122 guys are gonna blow by me haha ;). Glad to see so many other old school Volvos getting restored. I am going to pull the bumpers off next week and strip some more paint areas and start welding some spots. http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/volvo.html So I found this place that has parts, fiberglass and steel but they don't have some. I am wondering if anyone knows of anyone who sales the front area of the car that holds the grills in. Mine is in tact but it has some rust in areas that are hard to repair. I can do it but much easier to just buy a part. Thinking about having the bumpers plated "black chrome" like these wheels but still not sure. seeing all of the other projects and some of the guys making their cars look really great but not original makes me want to steer away from original more and customize the car the way I want it. Last edited by 240 JAH; 09-25-2010 at 11:28 PM..

09-27-2010, 04:18 PM	#13
stylngle2003 Board Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Two Up, Two Down	josh, if you need butyl, we have a whole box of it, in 1/2" thick round __________________ -Billy 1993 945ti "titebox" (DD) 1985 744GLE (perpetual +t project) 1996 Chevrolet Tahoe Vortec 2WD 1990 Mazda Miata track toy

09-28-2010, 02:35 AM	#15
240 JAH Bluegrass/Celtic Junkie Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Richmond, VA	Pulled the tail lights out, the license plate light/latch and the bumper off the car tonight. The bumper was bent and I am going to need to buy a new one. stripped the paint where there was rust... I will eventually cut out the rusted areas and stitch in new sheet metal LOOK AT THE "PEASHOOTER" Exhaust ;) crazy thing is when it runs it has no leaks!! Yup it's bondo starting to crack ...and turns into this ...and then this No worries though I cleaned it up and will soon work it out. Trunk is pretty clean, not much rust. I took the gas tank out 3 years ago because it has a leak in it that I will have to fix... although I might just build my own aluminum one. I use a Large boat gas tank to run the car when I want to drive it. YEAAAA MAN, bumping the jams in the single speaker haha A wire wheel on a grinder and a die grinder work wonders . so far I have only had to drill out one little screw that was in the headlight bezel. All the other bolts and screws have come right out with out any problems. This little buddy came to visit me! I had the side garage door open and it was raining tonight and he decided to come in and check out the project. I took him and put him in a better place by some rocks near my house. He is a Red Spotted Newt and eats bugs so he's my best friend now ;) you can see the rest of the images of the newt here Every time I add new photos I add them to the Album as well. Last edited by 240 JAH; 09-28-2010 at 05:29 AM..

09-28-2010, 07:13 AM	#16
GT_Paul Elephant in the room Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Tasmania, Australia	Nice. Did you order those SU filters? I recommend http://www.por15.com/ For treating all the rust repairs. awsome stuff __________________ 79 242 GT+T

09-28-2010, 10:40 AM	#18
stylngle2003 Board Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Two Up, Two Down	also, josh... FYI these are some more links for body parts. using them for the 1800 http://www.swedishtreasures.com/122toc.html http://irollmot.ipower.com/oscom/ind...0f6a8a27508eda http://www.cvi-automotive.se/en/articles/4442/bodywork

10-14-2010, 12:35 AM	#20
240 JAH Bluegrass/Celtic Junkie Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Richmond, VA	I really need to get rolling on this again. I started another project on my 74 bultaco alpina 350 as well, now both the 122 and bike are apart. Got sick this week and have a lot to do on the house and the 244. Fun fun fun

03-06-2011, 11:25 AM	#21
240 JAH Bluegrass/Celtic Junkie Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Richmond, VA	I'm starting to get back into restoration mode and brought this jewel home to inspire me ;) Gonna restore it as well.

05-16-2012, 12:11 AM	#22
240 JAH Bluegrass/Celtic Junkie Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Richmond, VA	It's been a while since I touched the 122 but I started organizing parts yesterday and bought one of my final pieces for the restore last week. I am hoping to get some time in the garage next week. So far 4 tractors and the 244 have had me busy for a while. More Photos to come soon. Btw the 66 4 door I brought home in the above photo is now deemed my donor car for some parts at least. It was too far gone really to try and restore.

06-21-2012, 01:00 PM	#23
240 JAH Bluegrass/Celtic Junkie Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Richmond, VA	I'm updating the status on the 66' 122 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=260679 I can't bring myself to just strip it and leave it so it becomes the rat rod... Well you can read more there. I'm still in the process of organizing parts and the Garage at the moment. I was hoping to have insulted my garage by now so I could put a central air system in it or at least window units for the time being but it just hasn't worked out that way. Within the next 2 weeks there will be a good update on this project and the rod project I promise!

06-21-2012, 03:29 PM	#24
240 JAH Bluegrass/Celtic Junkie Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Richmond, VA	This section needs to be cut out. As you can see above, a bondo like material was caked over it. I'm talking with Paul here on TB about getting some sections of his doner cars. I want to take the car down to bare metal all the way around and start front scratch. That is what I will be doing soon here. Heck I may even try and strip some more tonight. The rear trunk as you can see in photos above is rusted pretty good and the trunk, aka "boot" for you Brits, off the 66' is in good condition. I will swap that soon. I also need to send the B20 to the machine shop and start a build on it. I need to have a Volvo work party and get some help for beer and Pizza! Who's in ? I need you guys to keep me motivated with ideas and positive reinforcement lol.

06-21-2012, 05:37 PM	#25
Fivehundred . Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: UK	Don't cut that area out, panel beat it. Look up Wray Schelin shrinking disk and get a slapper and a decent dolly.

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode