volvo powered S-10? - Page 5

donalson · 06-12-2011, 10:37 PM

why do you say that... (I do recall you saying you felt it was limiting in an older post) but it didn't cost any extra as the kit came with all of that stuff... If challenge budget gets tight I could always sell the relay board stuff... it is a bit of a cheat but I really didn't feel like figuring out what circuits to use on the 10's fuse box lol

donalson · 06-13-2011, 10:39 PM

I re-routed the alternator wires (i'd tried to run them in front of the engine like on the 240 but I didn't like it... so around the back of the engine they go... will need a good thermal cover to keep the exhaust heat away... but the wire run looks clean.

then I got the dizzy clocked right (I think have to verify that)... it looks like the outer portion of the crank pully has moved about 10-15* advanced over the years (which is why you don't mount a crank trigger directly to the outside of these pulleys... the rubber can allow the outside to move)

TDC on the cam pulley... also verified it was TDC for the accessory pulley and crank (with crank pulley pulled) so this is what the cam pulley looked like

and this is what the crank pulley looks like.

got the ignition module and injector resistor box mounted.... nice and clean

the wire run is fairly clean and will keep the stock "over the brake booster" run... would be cleaner running it under but that puts it in higher friction areas... will look a lot better when I get some loom covering it... right now it's still missing the TPS (have to modify the mount still to use the 850 tps)

should be able to work on it a bit tomorrow... maybe get my wiring finished up and then will be off to get the fuel system finished up so I can get her cranked.

donalson · 06-17-2011, 11:46 PM

little odds and ends done...

picked up some fuel line today... so I can finish up my fuel line runs... might get off my butt and do that tomorrow....

anyway... stole the aftermarket coil from my 940 volvo and mounted it in the s10 (the stock 700/900 coil uses a different coil than the 200 series... I have a few spare 700 coils and plug wire sets so tossed that on the volvo... got the coil mounted up above the engine... i'll hit the JY next week sometime (when I have someone to watch the kids) I like it up there... i'll use the split loom wrap on the plug wire (like the s10 had for it's plug wires) I used the holes for the s10 power distribution block thing... perfect place for it IMHO

in this one you can see the stock portion of the fuel line... i'm going to run the other bit of hardline up to along the firewall so I don't have any issues with fuel lines rubbing, rupturing and spraying down my engine bay.

I've got the alternator mounted down low passenger side... need to pick up some shorter belts as it needs to tuck a little tighter to the engine but I shouldn't have any issue with rubbing on the frame rail... I can always move it to the driver side but I'd prefer to mount the s10 PS pump on the drivers side so I don't have to worry about having custom PS pump hose made (just have to fab the bracket).

and lastly I ordered the relays from DIYautotune... the price O'vancedzone wanted cost 3x what diyautotune wanted for em even after shipping... i'd rather support them anyway... going to verify everything works right with the relay cable before I mod the MS box itself... so next week some time it may be the first start up... we'll see

donalson · 06-18-2011, 03:50 PM

well thought to check the relays on the volvos relay/fuse box and found 3 of em... one of em is even a 40a... so snagged em and did a bench test of the MS with my relay cable...

only hooked up the TPS and MAT sensors... obviously able to simulate coil triggers with tapping the 12v signal... so all looks good

used the computer exhaust fan to warm the MAT a bit...

need to get some more fuel hose hose and some hose clamps at the store before I can button up the fuel system and the engine ground system is still waiting on me... waiting for the sun to go down a bit... high 90's makes me want to stay inside with the a/c

donalson · 06-18-2011, 10:19 PM

picked up my needed fuel line and clamps...

also earlier today plugged in the 14" cut-off saw and found that it worked

... very excited as I was told that it didn't work... that will make the exhaust build much easier

donalson · 06-19-2011, 10:46 PM

got the fuel lines run... will have to be re-done down the road as it has to to many junctions for my taste but will work for now...

will get on the electrical system tomorrow

amerbritcan · 06-20-2011, 09:44 AM

awesome, keep at it

chevettegofast · 06-22-2011, 06:43 PM

Awesome!!! Remove those chevy boat anchors for some fine european power!!! Yours looks a little nicer to work on!! (more room)

donalson · 06-22-2011, 06:45 PM

ah the chevette guy posts

... ya I think being able to remove the front end body easily makes it a lot easier to work on than yours lol...

no updates as i've been doing family stuff and working on the yard/garden

chevettegofast · 06-22-2011, 07:05 PM

Same here man... Next week will be epic!!!! Looking forward to your updates!

doucheNozzle · 06-22-2011, 11:20 PM

Was a tad skeptical at first but I like it. In for more.

donalson · 06-23-2011, 07:21 PM

megasquirt is wired for spark woot... going update to the MSn-extra firmware tonight and going to try to get the truck all wired up tomorrow and see if I can't get spark off the dizzy and then maybe get the truck started... that would be so awesome

andysbeta · 06-23-2011, 07:34 PM

One thing to advise, if you are going to run the alternator in the 240 location, get the 240 waterpump pulley to go along with it, you will be over-driving the waterpump , alternator and will quickly kill the heater core (if you are hooking it up).

donalson · 06-23-2011, 07:58 PM

??? does the 240 have a different crank and alternator pulley size as well? if i run the acc. from the same crank pulley they where driven from while... location won't change the drive ratio... not that I don't want a smaller lighter crank pulley lol..

but thats neither here nor there.. I keep rethinking mounting it in the dropped position on the drivers side or in the passenger 240 location... that being said keeping the heater still hasn't been determined... it's ALMOST warm enough here in the winter that I wouldn't care and weight loss is always good... for now i'll just loop the heater core lines on the engine... i've done the stripped out toy before and i'm not sure i'm hardcore enough for that anymore lol...

amerbritcan · 06-23-2011, 10:24 PM

seriously? contemplating keeping heater, in a car in florida? A/C i can see, but nothing in FL gets heater-needed cold.

turtle · 06-23-2011, 10:27 PM

I cant wait to see this thing run. Keep up the good work

donalson · 06-23-2011, 10:42 PM

lol... I want to be able to use this thing as much as possible... yes it only gets down into the 20's at lowest (we're in the panhandle which is more alabama than FL)... but it rains a lot which causes a big issue with defrost on the windows... so thats my thinking on the heater...

anyway got the MS running MSn-Extra now

... painless... running though getting it set for the volvo stuff now.

turtle · 06-23-2011, 11:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by amerbritcan

seriously? contemplating keeping heater, in a car in florida? A/C i can see, but nothing in FL gets heater-needed cold.

It gets cold at night. Not up north cold but, cold enough for a heater at times

donalson · 06-23-2011, 11:46 PM

ah ya you're in louisiana... we're about on the same latitude...

oh on a side note... recharged the a/c on my grandmother in laws '95 s10... WOW that engine bay is crammed... so different vs the 1st gen I've got

turtle · 06-23-2011, 11:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by donalson

ah ya you're in louisiana... we're about on the same latitude...

oh on a side note... recharged the a/c on my grandmother in laws '95 s10... WOW that engine bay is crammed... so different vs the 1st gen I've got

The 2.2 and the 4.3 are cramped in newer s-10's. I had a 84 2.8 liter Blazer and there was lots of room.

donalson · 06-24-2011, 03:26 AM

ya I was supprised at how cramped it was (was a 2.2l) vs the 2.5L duke and even some of the v8 powered one's i've seen

anyway I couldn't sleep so I bench tested the dizzy... and tunerstudio picked it up perfectly... so I added the ignition portion (wow that mallory coil puts off some spark)

so it bench tests in all aspects... also forgot I mentioned that I finally got the tps on the TB (hack saw + jb weld method)

so I hope to get things together on the truck tomorrow and see what happens

donalson · 06-30-2011, 06:26 PM

no pics today but I finally got some time with the truck... finished the engine to frame ground and hooked the battery up to verify chassis electrics worked and the starter pushed... all was going good...

then I pulled out the test light to verify that the wire i'd read in ALL the wire wright ups and diagrams was a proper switched 12v and had power in run/crank... seems EVERY one of them was always on... the only one that was working as it was supposed to was the starter 'noid (worked only in crank as it should)... I know the switch had been a little touchy when I was working on it with the stock engine and with some further reading it seems like I suspected... the switch is bad... for some reason (prob theft retardant) they mounted the electrics to the not far from the firewall on the column and connected it to the ignition key with a metal rod...

so I began to pull things apart... figured i'd yank out most of the interior so I can get it cleaned up and run the MS to where i want neatly/easily... pulled out the seat and then the floor mat stuff (was the rubber kind)... found at least 15lbs of sand on the floorboard under the torn up floor pad... also yanked out the dash... TONS of sand/dust in that truck...

so i'll get a new switch in there and we'll go from there... once I get that in i'll work on getting the MS hooked up.

turtle · 06-30-2011, 06:38 PM

Do work

donalson · 06-30-2011, 06:40 PM

yup work = actually get closer to it running... which = closer to driving it...

i'll get some pics of the interior later... but gota get cleaned up and run... but it's amazing how simple the HVAC system is when there is no a/c involved... add to it that my truck is almost as low end as you can go it doesn't even have dash vents... just the window and foot vents.

donalson · 06-30-2011, 10:20 PM

someone posted this on the s10 forum... I thought it was very funny

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ster94

this is a way outta the box build !u got a "one of a kind " here! im subscribed!!!!

my response

Quote:

Originally Posted by donalson

haha "outta the box"... I used a "turbo brick" for drivetrain (aka volvo) and tossed it into one of the few vehicles that is almost as boxy

...

so i'm thinking way to far IN the box me thinks lol...

anyway... picked up the ignition switch... will get it in tomorrow and should take care of the switched wire issues... then I can get to getting it running...

06-12-2011, 10:37 PM	#101
donalson Board Member Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Webster, TX (outside houston)	why do you say that... (I do recall you saying you felt it was limiting in an older post) but it didn't cost any extra as the kit came with all of that stuff... If challenge budget gets tight I could always sell the relay board stuff... it is a bit of a cheat but I really didn't feel like figuring out what circuits to use on the 10's fuse box lol __________________ Project [S]wede-10... volvo powered S-10? '91 945ti (new family hauler) - 16t \| Hi-tuning MBC \| TLAO fuel chip \| Hi-Tuning ignition chip \| Browntops \| 3" AMM \| DIY CAI \| Mallory coil \| cravingboost plug wires \| PBR metal master front pads \| needs a cam and exhaust

06-22-2011, 06:43 PM	#108
chevettegofast Board Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: North Bay ON	Awesome!!! Remove those chevy boat anchors for some fine european power!!! Yours looks a little nicer to work on!! (more room) __________________ 1998 Volvo S70 T5 5M PARTING OUT!! 1979 Chevette B230FT M47 2000 V70R 2000 S70 non turbo

06-22-2011, 11:20 PM	#111
doucheNozzle Emerged as Ugly Butterfly Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Cub Scout Camp, CA 93405	Was a tad skeptical at first but I like it. In for more. __________________ '97 GMC K2500 Suburban 6.5TD - FailBus '84 245GLT - FailWagon '92 245DL - The iFixit.com Lemons Car '95 850T5R - ButterCup Cheap 2/7/9 Camber Plates! Now w/Weld-In Steel! BrickSpeed - For Making your car fast. Not low.

06-23-2011, 10:27 PM	#116
turtle Gun loving Pitbull owner Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Denham Springs,Louisiana	I cant wait to see this thing run. Keep up the good work __________________ 1991 940 TURBO WAGON IPD sways front and rear,polys,adjustable panhard,new kyb struts and shocks,drop springs,ported 90+,T3 55 trim,COSWORTH wastegate,12psi,TLAO 3" downpipe,TLAO chips,K&N cone,heatshield and lots of BASS I may not be "all that", but I am some if it Things i want....PM if you want to sell 965 gate stuff, SE kit(front and rear bumper and side skirts)and 965 taillights BrickSpeed....faster than TB

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06-13-2011, 10:39 PM	#102
donalson Board Member Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Webster, TX (outside houston)	I re-routed the alternator wires (i'd tried to run them in front of the engine like on the 240 but I didn't like it... so around the back of the engine they go... will need a good thermal cover to keep the exhaust heat away... but the wire run looks clean. then I got the dizzy clocked right (I think have to verify that)... it looks like the outer portion of the crank pully has moved about 10-15* advanced over the years (which is why you don't mount a crank trigger directly to the outside of these pulleys... the rubber can allow the outside to move) TDC on the cam pulley... also verified it was TDC for the accessory pulley and crank (with crank pulley pulled) so this is what the cam pulley looked like and this is what the crank pulley looks like. got the ignition module and injector resistor box mounted.... nice and clean the wire run is fairly clean and will keep the stock "over the brake booster" run... would be cleaner running it under but that puts it in higher friction areas... will look a lot better when I get some loom covering it... right now it's still missing the TPS (have to modify the mount still to use the 850 tps) should be able to work on it a bit tomorrow... maybe get my wiring finished up and then will be off to get the fuel system finished up so I can get her cranked.

06-17-2011, 11:46 PM	#103
donalson Board Member Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Webster, TX (outside houston)	little odds and ends done... picked up some fuel line today... so I can finish up my fuel line runs... might get off my butt and do that tomorrow.... anyway... stole the aftermarket coil from my 940 volvo and mounted it in the s10 (the stock 700/900 coil uses a different coil than the 200 series... I have a few spare 700 coils and plug wire sets so tossed that on the volvo... got the coil mounted up above the engine... i'll hit the JY next week sometime (when I have someone to watch the kids) I like it up there... i'll use the split loom wrap on the plug wire (like the s10 had for it's plug wires) I used the holes for the s10 power distribution block thing... perfect place for it IMHO in this one you can see the stock portion of the fuel line... i'm going to run the other bit of hardline up to along the firewall so I don't have any issues with fuel lines rubbing, rupturing and spraying down my engine bay. I've got the alternator mounted down low passenger side... need to pick up some shorter belts as it needs to tuck a little tighter to the engine but I shouldn't have any issue with rubbing on the frame rail... I can always move it to the driver side but I'd prefer to mount the s10 PS pump on the drivers side so I don't have to worry about having custom PS pump hose made (just have to fab the bracket). and lastly I ordered the relays from DIYautotune... the price O'vancedzone wanted cost 3x what diyautotune wanted for em even after shipping... i'd rather support them anyway... going to verify everything works right with the relay cable before I mod the MS box itself... so next week some time it may be the first start up... we'll see

06-18-2011, 03:50 PM	#104
donalson Board Member Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Webster, TX (outside houston)	well thought to check the relays on the volvos relay/fuse box and found 3 of em... one of em is even a 40a... so snagged em and did a bench test of the MS with my relay cable... only hooked up the TPS and MAT sensors... obviously able to simulate coil triggers with tapping the 12v signal... so all looks good used the computer exhaust fan to warm the MAT a bit... need to get some more fuel hose hose and some hose clamps at the store before I can button up the fuel system and the engine ground system is still waiting on me... waiting for the sun to go down a bit... high 90's makes me want to stay inside with the a/c

06-18-2011, 10:19 PM	#105
donalson Board Member Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Webster, TX (outside houston)	picked up my needed fuel line and clamps... also earlier today plugged in the 14" cut-off saw and found that it worked ... very excited as I was told that it didn't work... that will make the exhaust build much easier

06-19-2011, 10:46 PM	#106
donalson Board Member Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Webster, TX (outside houston)	got the fuel lines run... will have to be re-done down the road as it has to to many junctions for my taste but will work for now... will get on the electrical system tomorrow

06-22-2011, 06:45 PM	#109
donalson Board Member Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Webster, TX (outside houston)	ah the chevette guy posts ... ya I think being able to remove the front end body easily makes it a lot easier to work on than yours lol... no updates as i've been doing family stuff and working on the yard/garden

06-22-2011, 07:05 PM	#110
chevettegofast Board Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: North Bay ON	Same here man... Next week will be epic!!!! Looking forward to your updates!

06-23-2011, 07:21 PM	#112
donalson Board Member Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Webster, TX (outside houston)	megasquirt is wired for spark woot... going update to the MSn-extra firmware tonight and going to try to get the truck all wired up tomorrow and see if I can't get spark off the dizzy and then maybe get the truck started... that would be so awesome

06-23-2011, 07:34 PM	#113
andysbeta no point Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Mancos	One thing to advise, if you are going to run the alternator in the 240 location, get the 240 waterpump pulley to go along with it, you will be over-driving the waterpump , alternator and will quickly kill the heater core (if you are hooking it up).

06-23-2011, 07:58 PM	#114
donalson Board Member Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Webster, TX (outside houston)	??? does the 240 have a different crank and alternator pulley size as well? if i run the acc. from the same crank pulley they where driven from while... location won't change the drive ratio... not that I don't want a smaller lighter crank pulley lol.. but thats neither here nor there.. I keep rethinking mounting it in the dropped position on the drivers side or in the passenger 240 location... that being said keeping the heater still hasn't been determined... it's ALMOST warm enough here in the winter that I wouldn't care and weight loss is always good... for now i'll just loop the heater core lines on the engine... i've done the stripped out toy before and i'm not sure i'm hardcore enough for that anymore lol...

06-23-2011, 10:24 PM	#115
amerbritcan serial F***up Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Ottawa, ON	seriously? contemplating keeping heater, in a car in florida? A/C i can see, but nothing in FL gets heater-needed cold.

06-23-2011, 10:42 PM	#117
donalson Board Member Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Webster, TX (outside houston)	lol... I want to be able to use this thing as much as possible... yes it only gets down into the 20's at lowest (we're in the panhandle which is more alabama than FL)... but it rains a lot which causes a big issue with defrost on the windows... so thats my thinking on the heater... anyway got the MS running MSn-Extra now ... painless... running though getting it set for the volvo stuff now.

06-23-2011, 11:46 PM	#119
donalson Board Member Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Webster, TX (outside houston)	ah ya you're in louisiana... we're about on the same latitude... oh on a side note... recharged the a/c on my grandmother in laws '95 s10... WOW that engine bay is crammed... so different vs the 1st gen I've got

06-24-2011, 03:26 AM	#121
donalson Board Member Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Webster, TX (outside houston)	ya I was supprised at how cramped it was (was a 2.2l) vs the 2.5L duke and even some of the v8 powered one's i've seen anyway I couldn't sleep so I bench tested the dizzy... and tunerstudio picked it up perfectly... so I added the ignition portion (wow that mallory coil puts off some spark) so it bench tests in all aspects... also forgot I mentioned that I finally got the tps on the TB (hack saw + jb weld method) so I hope to get things together on the truck tomorrow and see what happens

06-30-2011, 06:26 PM	#122
donalson Board Member Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Webster, TX (outside houston)	no pics today but I finally got some time with the truck... finished the engine to frame ground and hooked the battery up to verify chassis electrics worked and the starter pushed... all was going good... then I pulled out the test light to verify that the wire i'd read in ALL the wire wright ups and diagrams was a proper switched 12v and had power in run/crank... seems EVERY one of them was always on... the only one that was working as it was supposed to was the starter 'noid (worked only in crank as it should)... I know the switch had been a little touchy when I was working on it with the stock engine and with some further reading it seems like I suspected... the switch is bad... for some reason (prob theft retardant) they mounted the electrics to the not far from the firewall on the column and connected it to the ignition key with a metal rod... so I began to pull things apart... figured i'd yank out most of the interior so I can get it cleaned up and run the MS to where i want neatly/easily... pulled out the seat and then the floor mat stuff (was the rubber kind)... found at least 15lbs of sand on the floorboard under the torn up floor pad... also yanked out the dash... TONS of sand/dust in that truck... so i'll get a new switch in there and we'll go from there... once I get that in i'll work on getting the MS hooked up.

06-30-2011, 06:38 PM	#123
turtle Gun loving Pitbull owner Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Denham Springs,Louisiana	Do work

06-30-2011, 06:40 PM	#124
donalson Board Member Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Webster, TX (outside houston)	yup work = actually get closer to it running... which = closer to driving it... i'll get some pics of the interior later... but gota get cleaned up and run... but it's amazing how simple the HVAC system is when there is no a/c involved... add to it that my truck is almost as low end as you can go it doesn't even have dash vents... just the window and foot vents.