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Old 01-15-2012, 09:13 AM   #1
TestPoint
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Default Volvo's That Run Chapter 4 Transmission Clearance and Shift Linkage

Chapter 4: Transmission Clearance and Shift Linkage

The 4R70W automatic transmission has more clearance issues than the engine. There are four ‘ears’ on the of the transmission case that will ‘rub’ the transmission tunnel. They need to be removed with a ‘sawzall’. Two are at the front sides of the torque converter housing and are easier removed with the transmission separated from the engine. They serve no obvious purpose so saw away. Also, there are two casting ‘ears’ on the top rear of the transmission housing used only for tie points for the wiring harness. They tend to pinch the harness and/or rub the transmission tunnel with the transmission properly located and should be removed entirely on both sides. The clearance between the tunnel and the transmission case is pretty small and I ground casting mold lines smooth on the left front of the case to avoid rubbing/cutting the transmission wiring harness. A belt sander made quick work of them.













The firewall at the center top of the tunnel needs to be dented in to clear the transmission while installing. There is really no clearance problem once properly positioned. There is nothing immediately behind that area so pound away. I used a 3 foot piece of 1 ½” black pipe that I have used for years to extend a breaker bar and found it more affective than a hammer or sledge. Standing on the suspension cross member and swinging up it didn’t take but a few swings to dent the sheet metal as much as needed.

The transmission also has clearance issue around the shift link arm on the left side of the transmission tunnel as it extends back to the Volvo floor shifter. The transmission tunnel needs to dented in about 3/4 inch about 6 inches up and 14 inches back from the intersection of the three sheet metal panels in the left throttle pedal area. This denting should then extend to the bottom of the floor pan. This clears the transmission switch, the transmission shift arm and the linkage. Invest in a 4 lb sledge with an 18” handle for quick results here and the other clearance locations.

On the right side of the transmission are a connector and a heat shield that comes too close to the tunnel also. After denting in this area I realized that the heat shield was for the Explorer exhaust which is no longer there and was not necessary and therefore just removed the shield.

An issue I spent a lot of time thinking about was the position and mounting of the large transmission wiring harness connector. There is not room in the transmission tunnel in the original bracket position. First thought was to leave it hanging then realized that the original mounting bracket could be used to relocate and firmly mount it to a perfect place. The bracket needs to be modified by cutting off a quarter inch all along the bottom to clear the pan which extends beyond the casting. Also, there are two small ‘tits’ at the bottom edge of the casting that need to be ground off. The bracket then is mounted using the front bolt of the transmission switch behind the switch. A washer is added to the rear switch bolt to keep the unit aligned.



Original Connector Bracket Location



Preferred new location



Modified Connector Bracket Location

The O2 sensor harness on the right side is so short that it can and can be, as on mine, trapped between the transmission housing and the tunnel. I have got to do some alignment to address drive shaft vibration and will retrieve the connectors at that time. Both the upstream and down stream connectors are the same and are located close together as are the sensors so you will have to verify wire codes to get the right one. The upstream connector is labeled HO2S-11 on the electrical schematics and has GY/LB and OG wiring.


Transmission Shift Linkage

Issues with clearance with the speedometer cable, the transmission tunnel sheet metal and with the transmission cross member can be easily overcome by bending the strange Volvo shift link rod plus the clearance issues discussed in the Transmission Clearance section. The linkage is very stiff and is difficult to bend without a vice causing many, many trips under and out of the car. The Ford shift link arm will need to be bent for clearance around the transmission switch.

A trick I learned from the custom exhaust installer is to use a welding wire, or a straightened coat hanger, to model the desired shape of the bends perhaps cutting your forming time.

Both the front Volvo link and the Ford shift arm have pins. The Ford arm pin is drilled out to a hole size that fits the Volvo link pin. Everything then connects up.



Modified Ford Shift Arm



Calculation of Modified Volvo Arm Throw

The Ford linkage arm is 2 ¾ inch center to center of the holes and has a 3 ¼ ‘throw’ when operated from 1st to Park. The floor mounted Volvo linkage arm is 5 inches center to center and has a 5 1/16” ‘throw’. Obviously, the Volvo arm will have to be shortened to match the same ‘throw’ so that the ‘first to park’ on the floor shifter actually moves the Ford transmission switch the same ‘first to park’. By my calculations and installed experience the length of the Volvo arm needs to be shortened to 3 9/16” center to center of the holes. Drill the new hole and cut the arm off appropriately.



Original Volvo Diesel Shift Linkage



Linkage Bent and Installed With Floor Pan Clearance Modification

The parent document to this thread can be found here:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=250257

Last edited by TestPoint; 10-06-2013 at 05:46 PM..
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Old 03-31-2013, 09:32 PM   #2
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Now that the engine is running I find some things that need adjusting. The length adjustment device on the transmission end of the linkage above should be left, after the struggle with clearance, with about half of its 2 1/2" of threaded area showing. I was so furtrated getting the linkage to clear everything without rattling against something that it was left with very little adjustment range.

Now it comes back to bite me. The Volvo PARK is the Ford REVERSE. Because I am using the Volvo start interlock that means that it will start, at high RPM, in REVERSE. It will not go into PARK reliability. So, back on jack stands and back under the car.

Reminds me of how many things could come up. How many bolts did I leave less than torque spec tight, what is going to leak or blow out? Still a lot of 30+ year old stuff on this car.

Out tonight, back in tomorrow morning. Appointment with the Ford dealer tomorrow for an alignment after a complete suspension rebuild.

Tuesday, the permanent exhaust system.

Wednesday, test drive with tow rope and major repair kit on board.


The parent document to this thread can be found here
: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=250257

Last edited by TestPoint; 04-01-2013 at 05:57 AM..
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Old 04-01-2013, 12:30 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TestPoint View Post

Reminds me of how many things could come up. How many bolts did I leave less than torque spec tight, what is going to leak or blow out? Still a lot of 30+ year old stuff on this car.



Wednesday, test drive with tow rope and major repair kit on board.
I think the same way every time I am under the car.
For my 1st test drive I will add a fire extinguisher and very likely a battery quick disconnect.

Thats still a ways off (not too far!)
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Old 04-01-2013, 02:22 PM   #4
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I did get the shift linkage fixed . . . the first try . . . but had to take it all out to bend it in a vice.

Pulled the car out of the garage this morning on the way to the alignment shop and found a puddle of brake fluid where the front left tire was. Back in the garage with a caliper bleed valve that wouldn't seal.
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Old 12-01-2013, 03:33 PM   #5
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For anyone who is doing the swap and wants to use a manual trans, the setup is pretty simple.
In my swap i used a ford world class t5 transmission, with Original style flywheel and clutch setup, the volvo clutch cable will mount nicely against the Ford bellhousing and the clable clips in perfectly to the ford clutch release fork. As for the trans mount i welded on a plate to the front of the volvo cross member and drilled two holes to line up with the ford transmount. The driveshaft i used was the ford one piece drive shaft and did not have to modify it in any way except cutting off the large counter weight that is on the end of the shaft so that it can clear the tunnel. I used a driveshaft adapter so that the ford shaft can be bolted to the volvo rear, the part is made by Yoshifab. The shifter i used was a stock ford lower section with a custom straight shift rod and i used a saab 9-3 se shift boot because the stock rubber boot was just a little to small for the ford shift pattern.








For more info you can see my build thread http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=286849
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