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Old 01-15-2012, 01:34 PM   #1
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Default Volvo's That Run Chapter 12 Electrical, WIring Harness, Fuses and PCM

Chapter 12: Electrical, Wiring Harness, Fuses and PCM

First a few notes on the security system of this generation of the Explorer; the initial years of this series, ’96 and ’97, did not have the security level implemented in ’98. Beginning in ’98 and through ’01 the PCM, security control module and the key comprised a passive anti-theft system (PATS) designed to prevent such things from happening. Also, in ’99 through ’01 Ford converted the Explorer fuel system to a non-return tank mounted regulator and 65 psi injector configuration. Unfortunately, the combination of the two changes also effectively prevents engine swaps. There are two solutions that I have identified; first, use the ’96 -’97 PCM without PATS on the ’96 - ’98 engines and also on later engines, ’99 –’01, change out of the fuel rail and injectors. The second solution is to have PATS disabled on a ’98 – ’01 PCM with a custom tune to remove the security function.

The unfortunate part is that a custom tune can run $400 to $500 and all I want is the security system disabled. There are several other CEL issues that can also be resolved with a custom tune such as the fuel system environmental codes and tank pressure and the speed sensor signals that the PCM is going to expect and be disappointed. This is where you need to consider what other modifications you are going to do to the engine before investing in a custom tune.

The 42 pin Ford Connector (C115M) is the interface between the Volvo body electrical system and the Ford engine and transmission wiring harness and the PCM. Only 19 circuits of the 42 pins are used. For the Volvo Body Connector (VBC) you will need to keep the engine side of the connector and as much wire as possible that was connected to the engine wiring harness of the Volvo.






Ford C115M and Volvo VBC Connectors


You only need about 20 of the 100+ pages in the Ford Wiring Diagrams book and are identified below in the C115M pin out. Those pages can be found in the Attachments section of the Introduction. http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=250746 The books are usually available used on eBay or Amazon for under $20 and are available on CD for less than $30. Copy/print the applicable pages and mark them up as you go. In the ’96 to ’01 Explorer series there were significant changes in the ’98 model year, other changes in ‘99 and a few minor changes thereafter so it is important that you get the correct set of drawings. I started with the Volvo schematic and the ’00 Ford schematic and highlighted each circuit that I needed to connect. That produced a spreadsheet of all the required connections.


Battery Junction Box


I chose to use the Ford Battery Junction Box (BJB) which has a battery cable connection, MEGA fuse (175A), MAXI fuses, MINI fuses, protection diodes, PCM power relay, Fuel Pump Relay, Starter Motor Relay and multiple spare relays for anything you can think of. The use of the BJB was based on the fact that once installed it would look like it was designed that way. There are many ways to accomplish the same thing without going to this level of detail. My choice.

A personal note: I have never been in any hurry to complete this conversion and wanted to end up with as neat and ‘factory’ looks as possible. The following information probably consumed a hundred hours, or more, of thinking, testing, redoing and otherwise enjoying working through the conversion. Maybe with this head start you can do it in just a few hours.



Bracket made to mount Battery Junction Box



Ford Battery Junction Box



Battery Junction Box Installed



Removable Battery Junction Box and Wiring Harness including C115 Connector


A much simpler method is just to wire in a ‘start’ relay and a ‘fuel pump’ relay but that leaves out several things Ford thought were important such as a diode to protect the PCM and fuses on several circuits. Oh . . . and little things like the connection from the brake switch to the PCM to drop the torque converter lock up when the brakes are applied. Most of the wires coming out of the bottom of the BJB in my conversion are terminated into new connectors for testing and complete removal if necessary. I also installed a Schrader valve in the BJB for replacement of smoke in case some gets out.




The parent document for this thread can be found here: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=250257

Last edited by TestPoint; 08-13-2013 at 01:57 PM..
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Old 02-02-2012, 12:18 PM   #2
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Default Volvo's That Run Chapter 12 Electrical Page 2

Sorry folks . . . the thread got too big for a single post.

Chapter 12 Electrical Page 2

Wiring Harness Connections


The following describes the connections several ways, by C115M pins and then by Data Port pins and then by Volvo Body Connector pins and then by the new connectors I added to allow the BJB to be completely removed for trouble shooting. In addition, the fuse use is described as well as the start and run functions are discussed in further detail.

Here is the Secret of the Universe . . . all you have to do is satisfy the following 19 connections through the C115 connector, 12 of which are very straight forward connections, add a PCM Power Relay and a Start Relay and you are done.

C115M pin out – short version

1.) Pin 1 (red/light green) (circuit 16, page 13-16) Ignition coils power
2.) Pin 2 (tan/yellow) (circuit 11, page 62-2) Tachometer
3.) Pin 3 (pink/light blue) (circuit 915, page 25-6) Data port
4.) Pin 4 (red/light green) (circuit 810, pages 30-2, 59-6) Brake torque converter unlock
5.) Pin 5 (dark green/yellow) (circuit 238, page 25-1) Fuel pump on signal
6.) Pin 6 (pink/light green) (circuit 658, page 23-2) Dash MIL/CEL
7.) Pin 8 (yellow) (circuit 37, page 25-1) PCM permanent B+
8.) Pin 9 (red) (circuit 361, page 25-2) Fuel injector/IAC/MASF B+
9.) Pin 11 (tan/orange) (circuit 914, page 25-6) Data Port
10.) Pin 12 (tan/white) (circuit 234, page 30-2) Transmission Control Switch (OD Lock out)
11.) Pin 15 (light blue/orange) (circuit 926, page 25-1) Fuel pump relay
12.) Pin 16 (red/white) (circuit 39, page 62-2) Coolant Temperature Sensor
13.) Pin 22 (violet) (circuit 107, page 14-1, 25-6) PCM reprogramming power from Data Port
14.) Pin 26 (dark green/white) (circuit 253, page 62-2) engine oil sensor
15.) Pin 34 (black/white) (circuit 570, page 10-2) Ground
16.) Pin 36 (light blue/orange) (circuit 34, page 13-5, 25-6) O2 sensor/transmission power
17.) Pin 40 (white/light green) (circuit 911, page 62-6) 'OD OFF' indicator light
18.) Pin 41 (light green/red) (circuit 904, page 12-1) ALT light
19.) Pin 42 (yellow/white) (circuit 36 page 12-1) Alternator power



C115M pin out - long version

1.) Pin 1 (red/light green) (circuit 16, page 13-16) (NCF #1) receives start/run power from the base of the PCM Power Diode located in the Battery Junction Box (BJB). This lead provides power to the ignition coils. See the section below for a discussion on supplying ignition start/run voltage to the base of the diode.

2.) Pin 2 (tan/yellow) (circuit 11, page 62-2) provides a tachometer signal from the PCM to the Volvo Body Connector (VBC). Since I did not have a wiring harness connection for a tach I just assigned pin 4 of the VBC. Also see the notes on replacing the VBC and modifying the tach to read an 8 cylinder signal.

3.) Pin 3 (pink/light blue) (circuit 915, page 25-6) provides a signal from the PCM to the OBDII Data Port connector pin 10.

4.) Pin 4 (red/light green) (circuit 810, pages 30-2 and 59-6) receives B+ upon application of the brake pedal to unlock the torque converter but the PCM is expecting to see a ground when the brake pedal is in the normal position. This requires installing a relay near the brake switch and the addition of a new circuit from the body through the VBC pin 5 to C115M. I used one of the many relays unused in the BJB.

PICTURES AND CIRCUIT DIAGRAM



U.S. Pat. Pend. R Goldburg and Co. 2012



The larger relays have the 30/85/86/87/87a designation while the smaller relays use the 1-5 on their respective schematics.

Pin 1/85 – Ground
Pin 2/86 – Brake operated B+ (Volvo blue/red)
Pin 3/30 – PCM (C115 Pin 4)
Pin 4/87a – Ground
Pin 5/87 – B+ (I chose a switched fuse connection)

This provides a ground on the C115 pin in NORMAL and B+ when the brake is OPERATED dropping the torque converter lock-up by releasing the appropriate solenoid in the valve body.

5.) Pin 5 (dark green/yellow) (circuit 238, page 25-1) provides a signal from the BJB back to the PCM that the fuel pump relay has been activated. (NCF #4)

6.) Pin 6 (pink/light green) (circuit 658, page 23-2) provided a signal from the PCM to light the Check Engine Light/Malfunction Indicator Light (CEL/MIL) on the Volvo instrument panel. This requires the addition of a new connection through the VBC on pin 6.

7.) Pin 8 (yellow) (circuit 37, page 25-1) receives permanent B+ power for PCM memory from BJB fuse #6 (10A) (NCF #5).

8.) Pin 9 (red) (circuit 361, page 25-2) receives start/run B+ from the BJB PCM Power Relay to provide voltage to operate Fuel Injectors, Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve and the Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAFS) (NCF #2)

9.) Pin 11 (tan/orange) (circuit 914, page 25-6) provides a signal from the PCM to the OBDII Data Port connector pin 2.

10.) Pin 12 (tan/white) (circuit 234, page 30-2) in its Ford environment receives B+ from the ignition switch through the momentary contact Transmission Control Switch (TCS) which is located on the shift stalk. The PCM starts in default mode to allow use of overdrive but momentary voltage from the TCS locks out overdrive. Another momentary contact steps the PCM to allow overdrive. It would be easy to pick up B+ within the Volvo body rather than adding both in and out wires and route a single wire through a momentary contact switch to pin 12 if you felt the need to lock out overdrive, as in towing a trailer.

11.) Pin 15 (light blue/orange) (circuit 926, page 25-1) provides a ground from the PCM to the BJB Fuel Pump Relay winding to operate the relay (NCF #7).

12.) Pin 16 (red/white) (circuit 39, page 62-2) connects the engine temperature sensor within the Ford wiring harness through the VBC pin 2 (yellow) to operate the temperature gauge on the instrument panel. CAUTION: There are 2 red/white wires in the BJB. Given a 50% chance of error of course I chose the wrong one the first time. Trace the red/white wire to pin 16.

13.) Pin 22 (violet) (circuit 107, page 14-1, 25-6) provides power from the OBDII Data Port connector pin 13 for PCM reprogramming.

14.) Pin 26 (dark green/white) (circuit 253, page 62-2) connects the engine oil sensor within the Ford wiring harness through the VBC pin 1 (black) to operate the oil pressure light on the instrument panel.

15.) Pin 34 (black/white) (circuit 570, page 10-2) Ground

16.) Pin 36 (light blue/orange) (circuit 34, page 13-5, 25-6) is supplied start/run B+ from BJB fuse #13 (15A) for O2 sensor and transmission operation (NCF #8).

17.) Pin 40 (white/light green) (circuit 911, page 62-6) Instrument panel 'OD OFF' indicator lamp.

18.) Pin 41 (light green/red) (circuit 904, page 12-1) is provided power from the ignition switch in the start and run positions through the instrument panel charge indicator light to the VBC pin 3.

19.) Pin 42 (yellow/white) (circuit 36 page 12-1) receives B+ from BJB fuse #14 (30a) through NCF#3 and provides power to the alternator regulator for the field winding power through the wiring harness.

There are a couple other circuits that would be nice to deal with, specifically the fuel pressure sensor and the speed sensor mounted on the real axle of the Explorer. Missing, which they will be, both are going to keep the CEL/MIL lit. I am hoping that a custom tune can eliminate all the conversions issues and leave the CEL/MIL functional for real issues.



Data Port (OBDII connector) (page 25-6) (page 14-1)


The OBDII Data Port is a 16 pin connector but only 6 are used in this conversion. Two are grounds and one is a 25A fused circuit from the Volvo fuse panel. Only 3 new circuits need to be extended from the under dash location of the Data Port through the firewall to connection to C115M.

Data Port pin 2 is connected to C115M pin 11 (TN/OG) (circuit 914 page 25-6)

Data Port pins 4 and 5 are connected to ground under the dash

Data Port Pin 7 (not used) (circuit 70 page 14-1, 25-6)

Data Port pin 10 is connected to C115M pin 3 (PK/LB) (circuit 915, page 25-6)

Data Port pin 13 is connected to C115M pin 22 (VT) (circuit 915, page 25-6)

Data Port pin 16 is connected to B+ at a spare fuse on the Volvo fuse block (25A)


Volvo Body Connector

The Volvo Body Connector (VBC) provides the following circuits to/from the body. Because I chose to add several circuits between the engine and body and the fact that I crushed my connector on one of many engine installation efforts I replaced the Volvo connector with a water resistant marine 8 pin connector.

Pin 1 - Oil Pressure (black) connection is to C115M pin 26 (DG/WH) which connects within the Ford wiring harness to the oil pressure sensor to operate the oil pressure light on the instrument panel.

Pin 2 - Temperature (yellow) connection is to C115M pin 16 (also YE) which connects within the Ford wiring harness to the temperature sensor to operate the temperature gauge on the instrument panel.

Pin 3 - Alternator (red) connection is to C115M pin 41 (LG/RD). Volvo ignition switch supplies B+ through the instrument panel alternator light.

Pin 4 – Brake light voltage is extended to C115M pin 4 to unlock the torque converter lockup upon application of brakes.

Pin 5 – Tachometer connection to C115M pin 2 to provide a signal to the Volvo instrument panel tachometer. This invokes the issue of an 8 cylinder signal driving a 4 or 6 cylinder tachometer. See the speedometer / tachometer chapter

Pin 6 – Check engine or Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) or Lamda light is connected to C115M pin 6.

Pin 7 - Ignition Start (blue/yellow) connection provides B+ from the Volvo ignition switch through NCF #6 and MINI fuse #11 (10A) to the operating windings of the START relay.

Pin 8 - Ignition Run (blue) connection provides B+ from the Volvo ignition switch through NCM #3 and MINI fuse #9 (25A) to the base of the PCM diode. It should be noted that the Volvo ignition switch is only supplied by an 8A fuse in the Volvo fuse panel. That will have to increased to 25A to meet the current requirements of the Ford end of the RUN circuits. That does nothing to address the wire size to/from the switch or the switch contacts. The proper way to handle this is to install another relay in the BJB to upgrade the current capability but I am too far down this road to back up now. I will post the solution when the smoke escapes.


Additional Wiring Through Firewall

In addition to the eight wires above, of which my Diesel only had 5, there are new ones added by Ford. Since the 8 pin connector was the largest I could find with wire gauges large enough for some circuits I added an additional 4 pin connector for the Data Port connections that only had low current application and at the last minute a 2 pin for the OD Lock Out and fuel pump power. The fuel pump power was routed to the Volvo fuse panel in order to use the Volvo body wiring for the pumps. Since the addition of the fuel pump relay in the rear the FP lead had only become a signal carrier. Late in the game I found the 'OD OFF' lamp circuit. It is included in the wiring notes above but didn't make it into my car. That is a total of 10 additional wires that had to be threaded through the rubber firewall port. It would have been a lot easier to have done that before the engine was installed.


Battery Junction Box New Connector (NC) pin out

I added two connectors to the BJB to allow complete removal in case the smoke escapes. They are 8 pin marine connectors with three 12ga wires and five 14ga ones (DEL CITY part numbers 74875 and 74895). While it would have been better to only have one connector I was not able to locate a 12 connector plug with large enough wire gauge to handle the 30A and 25A circuits. They were installed with male and female sides together to prevent incorrect installation. I called them New Connector Male (NCM) and New Connector Female (NCF) in case you wonder what they mean.



NC Wire
Pin Color Description

Female connector

F1 White To C115 pin 1 on RUN provides B+ from base of PCM diode (20A)

F2 Red To C115 pin 9 on START/RUN powers FI, IAC and MAFS from PCM Power Relay (30A)

F3 Black To C115M pin 42 supplies alternator regulator power from MINI fuse #14 (30A)

F4 Brown To C115 pin 5 from fuel pump relay on START/RUN to signal PCM that pump is powered Signal

F5 Green To C115 pin 8 provides permanent B+ to PCM from MINI fuse #6 (10A)

F6 Blue From Volvo START to Starter Motor Relay thru MINI fuse #11 (7.5A)

F7 Gray From C115 pin 15 supplies ground from PCM to operate Fuel Pump Relay (10A)

F8 Yellow From Fuse #13 to C115 pin 36 to power O2 sensors and transmission switch (15A)


Male Connector

M1 White Supplies permanent power from MINI fuse #7 to Data Port Pin 16 (25A)

M2 Red Provides power to Volvo Fuel pump on Start/Run (20A)

M3 Black Volvo Ignition RUN to base of PCM Diode thru MINI fuse #9 (25A)

M4 Brown BJB Relay ground -


Separate connections from the Battery Junction Box


Tan/Black lead provides B+ from MAXI fuse #1 to the Volvo fuse panel on connector block on interior fender (60A)

Yellow/Light Blue connects from the Starter Motor Relay to the starter solenoid (50A)

Red connects form MAXI fuse #8 to Head Light connector block and relays for voltage upgrade (30A)



Modified BJB Fuse Assignments

MAXI fuse 1 (tan/black) (60A) Permanent B+ to Volvo fuse panel on a separate red lead

MAXI fuse 3 (yellow/light green) (20A) Permanent B+ to PCM Diode (internal to BJB)

MAXI fuse 5 (yellow) (50A) Permanent B+ to Starter Motor Relay (internal to BJB)

MAXI fuse 8 (red) (30A) Headlight voltage upgrade to new relays and wiring

MAXI fuse 10 (30A) Permanent B+ to PCM relay (internal to BJB)


MINI fuse 6 (10A) Permanent B+ to PCM through NCF #6

MINI fuse 7 (25A) Permanent B+ to Data Port through NCM #1

MINI fuse 9 (20A) Volvo RUN thru fuse to base of PCM Diode NCM #3

MINI fuse 11 (10A) Volvo START to Starter Motor Relay NCF #6

MINI fuse 13 (15A) Volvo START/RUN B+ to O2 Sensor power (from PCM power relay) NCF #8

MINI fuse 14 (30A) Permanent B+ to C115M #42 alternator voltage regulator NCF #14


The parent document for this thread can be found here: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=250257

Last edited by TestPoint; 09-01-2014 at 09:08 PM.. Reason: Additional information
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Old 02-02-2012, 12:20 PM   #3
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Default Volvo's That Run Chapter 12 Electrical Page 3

Chapter 12 - Electrical Page 3


START circuit (all RUN circuits are powered at the same time)

Volvo ignition switch B+ is provided from the internal body fuse panel. In the START position B+ is carried on yellow/blue wire through VBC #7 to NC #5 to BJB MINI fuse #11 (10A) on a Tan/Red lead. MINI Fuse #11 is connected internally to the Starter Motor Relay pin #85 on a tan/red wire. At this point the ignition switch START operates the relay connecting BJB MAXI fuse #5 (50A) to the starter solenoid on a yellow/light blue wire. See revised wiring diagram page 20-3 below.





RUN Circuit

Volvo ignition switch B+ is provided from the internal body fuse panel. In the run position B+ is carried on a blue wire through VBC #8. There are a number of connections then made to the BJB and beyond.

The Volvo connector pin #8 voltage is supplied on a red/light green wire through NC #8 into the BJB which is connected to fuse #9 (10A) and then internally to the base of the PCM Power Diode. The diode supplies power to operate the PCM Power Relay. The Power Relay operates to provide power through NC #4 to C115M pin #9 which supplies power to the fuel injectors, MAF sensor and Idle Air Control. See circuit #361, pages 13-5 and 13-11.

The PCM Power Relay also provides B+ internally to the BJB to the Fuel Pump Relay winding. The PCM supplies a momentary ground on C115 pin 15, circuit 926 on page 25-5, during the start sequence to bring the fuel pressure up. When the PCM detects the engine running it supplies a permanent ground to continue to operate the fuel pump relay.

The PCM Power Relay also provides B+ internally to fuse #13 (15A) and is then routed through NC #9 to the C115M pin #36 on a light blue/orange wire. This circuit 34 on page 13-8 powers the O2 sensors and the transmission switch.




The BJB is primarily set up to provide continuous B+ to many of the car’s systems. In order to have use of two additional fuse sockets for switched power I had to physically modify a number of the internal connections including removing one of the connection plates under the fuse sockets.



Notes about wiring;

Use non insulated crimp connectors on ‘tined’ wire and covered with heat shrink wrap. Getting it right the first time is hard enough, chasing a poor connection later is much more difficult.

Several of the circuits out of the BJB are rather high current such as C115M pin #1 at 20A, C115M pin #4 at 30A, the 25A circuit to the Data Port, ignition run to the BJB at 25A and C115M pin #42 at 30A. Correspondingly higher gauge wire must be used. Don't try to run everything on 18 gauge!

The parent document for this thread can be found here: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=250257

Last edited by TestPoint; 04-28-2012 at 11:49 AM..
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Old 02-02-2012, 12:22 PM   #4
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Default Volvo's That Run Chapter 12 Electrical Page 4

Chapter 12 - Electrical Page 4

PCM Mounting

Ford had the Power Train Control Module mounted in a fixture through the firewall away from the engine compartment heat. Mounting the ‘puter in the engine compartment may pose both heat and humidity issues. It’s a BIG connector to put through firewall. I used a 2” bimetal hole saw in a drill motor to cut a hole in the firewall. There is a reinforcing bar welded to the inside bottom of the panel and you need to drill above it but not so high as to get out of the flat area of the panel. My solution for dressing up the hole and providing protection to the wiring harness was a PVC cover for a 2 gang electrical box and a 1” PVC wiring grommet found in your local hardware store. Others with earlier 240 cars have used the Ford PCM mounting bracket that mounts through the panel and extends into the interior. On my ’82 there was not room on the panel for that installation on my car. This is the plan.




Here are the pieces I made/cut/crafted into a way to cover the hole and surround the harness when there was no way to get past the large C202 connector. The harness could be easily be squeezed a little flatter and they slipped around the pieces.



Assembled this is what it should look like on the firewall.










The parent document for this thread can be found here: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=250257

Last edited by TestPoint; 04-10-2012 at 09:29 AM..
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Old 03-24-2012, 04:24 PM   #5
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Default Additional wires through the firewall

I just spent an entertaining hour upside down under the dash feeding additional wires through the bulkhead wiring port. It sure would have been easier to have done this before the engine was installed but I did not see it coming.

The additional conductors were for:

Tachometer through the VBC to C115M

Extending the Ford PCM control from the BJB fuel pump relay to the Volvo fuse panel and on to the fuel pump

Data Port (OBDII). Three data wires to the PCM through the C115M connector plus B+ supplied by the BJB. The B+ could have been done under the dash at the Volvo fuse panel. Ground was provided under the dash.

Torque Converter unlock from the brake switch to C115M

OD lock out - steps OD on and off with momentary B+

OD OFF indicator lamp

I did not install but probably should have run a wire for the OD lockout. Guess I will add another wire this afternoon. [EDIT] I did add that wire but did not notice the instrument panel OD OFF lamp circuit until much later and the harness was all neatly closed up. I am sure that probably sooner, rather than later I will have a need to open the harness up again and will take care of that.

Moral of the story is to anticipate such issues and do everything in order. That is the objective of this documentation.


The parent document for this thread can be found here:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=250257

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Old 01-01-2013, 04:08 PM   #6
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Default Headlight wiring upgrade

. . . it was a dark and stormy night . . .

. . . and far too cold and messy to be working outside so I completed the long planned headlight wiring upgrade on the kitchen counter . . . much to the wife's aggravation.

The early 240 series powered the high current load headlights directly off the dash headlight switch and consequently burned up a large number of switches. Somewhere around 1979 relays were added at the front left fender area to switch power closer to the lights but they still used 16 ga wire to feed the last 6 - 8 feet of a 16 amp circuit.

The purpose for this project is to eliminate or at least dramatically reduce the voltage drop in the light circuits. With the move of the battery to the rear I had concerns about this issue but in reality the alternator/voltage regulator will maintain the voltage at the engine compartment to the same as if the battery was still located there . . . while the engine is running. Even a single volt lower at the lamp reduces the light output by something like 8% and total voltage drop can be more than that one volt. I had good intentions to measure the voltage at the lights before and after but didn't. I have another 240 around and will do that as soon as it quits raining.

The following is quoted from http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...ys/relays.html which provides an excellent discussion on why this headlight modification is worth the effort.

Quote:
In many cases, the thin factory wires are inadequate even for the stock headlamp equipment. Headlamp bulb light output is severely compromised with decreased voltage. The drop in light output is not linear, it is exponential with the power 3.4. For example, let's consider a 9006 low beam bulb rated 1000 lumens at 12.8 Volts and plug in different voltages:

10.5V : 510 lumens
11.0V : 597 lumens
11.5V : 695 lumens
12.0V : 803 lumens
12.5V : 923 lumens
12.8V : 1000 lumens ←Rated output voltage
13.0V : 1054 lumens
13.5V : 1198 lumens
14.0V : 1356 lumens ←Rated life voltage
14.5V : 1528 lumens
My plan was to connect the bulbs' power leads from the Volvo relays to the control leads of new relays mounted at the lights and feed power from a 30 amp fuse in the Ford Battery Junction Box described above on less than 2 feet of 10 ga wire to the left light, 6 feet to the right ones. That didn't completely work as 10 ga, even stranded, is very difficult to work with and would not fit through the new connectors. The end result is that 10 ga is used to within a foot of the new relays and then 12 ga the last 18 inches or so to the lights themselves. I did tin, crimp and then solder all connections perhaps just for my own entertainment.

Relays are dirt cheap these days if you shop around eBay but even then it is not understandable why a manufacturer would provide 16 ga pig tails on a relay mount rated at 40 amps. Consequently, the first thing to do is remove the connectors and upgrade to the 12 ga. Space for relay mounting is a little tight in the headlight area but I found room inside the enclosure itself. Someone is probably going to reply that the relay covers are going to melt off that close to the lights.

I also found ceramic light connectors from China on eBay for about $2 for 4 shipped and the relays/mounts were about $2 each.





With wire from the local helpful hardware man there is less than $20 in the whole project.






The parent document for this thread can be found here: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=250257

Last edited by TestPoint; 07-19-2013 at 05:54 AM..
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Old 01-01-2013, 11:47 PM   #7
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Did you ever get the PATS figured out and git 'er on the road Tom?
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Old 01-15-2013, 09:34 PM   #8
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No, I have never gotten the car to run as I put it down in frustration back in the early Summer when I found the Bertone and just knew that I could get that one running easy . . . no such luck. Here we are now 7 months later and after replacing the entire fuel system from gas cap to fuel distributor the Bertone’s injectors are off to an injector spa in the middle of a corn field in north Washington State. That gives me an opportunity to jump back to the Volvo V8.

In case everyone has forgotten where we were all those many months ago everything worked except that the PCM would not activate the injectors as if the PATS programming was still in place after my best efforts to load a custom tune that should have deactivated it. In bits and pieces I have done continuity test on all the harness connections that I thought might be affected or affecting the problem.

I have drafted a 22 year old grandson to come up Friday and we are going to verify every connection one last time. He is the one that reset my digital watches twice a year when the Day Light Saving Time transitioned. I solved that problem by returning to analog watches.

To further complicate a complicated matter here is the pin out chart for the C202 connector to the PCM. It includes both the early and late wiring for this series of Explorer PCM configurations.






[/URL]


The vast majority of the pins is the original wiring harness connections and should not affect the injector operation. That leaves the following circuits that I think need to be verified . . . one more time. After that it has got to be a bad PCM, custom software problem or a SCT programming tool issue and I will go chase those rabbits.

Here is the short list of all the circuits that I believe will confirm that my wiring changes are as expected.



Anyway, this post pretty well completes the documentation of all the electrical connections that must be dealt with on the conversion. I made it far more complex than it needed to be just because this is my hobby and my ‘work of art’. Unfortunately, my ‘art’ has been pretty painful. Perhaps I should just cut off an ear instead. Coming from an era far removed from the computer controlled world of today I can foresee a time in the not so distant future that such projects are going to be nearly impossible . . . at least for my generation.

The parent document for this thread can be found here:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=250257

Last edited by TestPoint; 01-15-2013 at 10:47 PM..
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Old 07-15-2013, 04:05 PM   #9
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Here's a bump for ya. Unlike you, electrical is my Achilles heel. LOL
Study time. Thanks!
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Old 08-12-2013, 12:02 AM   #10
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Test Point I feel for you on your project...I am in the middle of the same thing but you have helped me out some here..have question on the Starter relay..not the one in the BDB box but the one on the fender well with the battery cables and the one post terminal..can you tell me where they all go? Also I am using a 2000 Explorer 5.0 L "P" Engine I am also using a earlier return type fuel rail..I DID NOT CHANGE THE INJECTORS..did I make a mistake here or what? Still using the 2000 PCM hope I can make it work also using the 4R70W trans Any help here is GREAT you did a great job on your post Thanks!! Great work..vegasmax RON
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Old 08-12-2013, 07:01 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vegasmax
Test Point :
..have question on the Starter relay..not the one in the BDB box but the one on the fender well with the battery cables and the one post terminal..can you tell me where they all go?


My solenoid is mounted on top of the starter not the fender well but they should be wired the same. You should have a big lead from the battery, a big lead to the starter, a ground and a lead from the START relay. I will pull the schematic a little later this morning and get back to you.


Quote:
Still using the 2000 PCM hope I can make it work also using the 4R70W trans

The only way to get an Explorer PCM equipped with PATS to work . . . at all . . . is to have a custom tune turn PATS off. You can buy the SCT tuner I am familiar with and have full tuning capability on going or have a tune shop turn it off. $400 vs $200. The other issue is that the PCM must be compatible with the final transmission. A PCM from a manual and/or 4wd vehicle is going to spit up on a 4R70W and I am not knowledgeable about a custom turner's ability to modify it. Also note that the tail shaft on your transmission is going to cause issues with connection with the drive shaft and will need to be changed out to an AOD tail shaft. See transmission chapter.

Quote:
I am also using a earlier return type fuel rail..I DID NOT CHANGE THE INJECTORS..did I make a mistake here

The Volvo pump is going to put out 90 psi gas and must be regulated down to 65 psi. The earlier fuel rail with the built in regulator and a fuel return used 45 psi regulated pressure. Your 2000 PCM cannot deal with that. Unless you can find a rail mounted 65 psi regulator you are going to have to provide pressure regulation before the rail. See the fuel system chapter.

Happy to see someone else trying this now. Lots of activity 10 years ago, not so much now. Also happy to help as many helped me. I have the car fully drivable now and am finishing up the paint job.

The parent document for this thread can be found here: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=250257

Last edited by TestPoint; 08-12-2013 at 07:20 AM..
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Old 08-12-2013, 02:10 PM   #12
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Here is the schematic for the starter wiring. Appears that the solenoid is grounded right where it is so you should only have one yellow/light blue wire to connect. Then the large cable to the post on the solenoid and that's all folks.




This same drawing modified to display how I wired the Volvo to Ford BJB to starter connections can be found in the Attachment Chapter. You don't need the BJB but you are going to need a relay. And you don't need the Ford transmission start interlock as you will use the Volvo version.
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Old 08-18-2013, 10:49 PM   #13
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Vegasmax asked me a question I couldn't answer and then answered it concerning the right side O2 sensors. On the '00 5.0L with the 4R70W transmission the right side transmission wiring harness has both connectors close together as are the sensors themselves. Since both up stream and down are the same type of connector the question is; which one is up and which is down. In the schematic book the sensor connectors are only identified as left and right in the connector location chart. Vegasmax came up with the following chart from somewhere:



That indicates that the upstream is HO2S -11 which is identified on the schematic (page 25-6) is the upstream and has wiring color codes GY/LB and uses a grey connector. The downstream, HO2S - 12 connector is blue and has OG for the sensor wires.

Now, when I rescue the connectors trapped between my transmission housing and the tunnel I will know which is which.

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Old 12-01-2013, 04:01 PM   #14
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For wiring a earlier ford system i will provide some info. The fallowing info is direct for a 93 mustang 5.0 wiring but will be similar for all Mustang efi systems.
The first thing you are going to want to do is go online and find this wiring manual that Ford created for the 5.0 efi crate engine installation

This manual makes wiring the engine harness very simple. There are two connectors that are described in the wiring. One is right next to the ecm and the other is under the hood near the diagnostic connector. The manual will describe what wires need to be ran to the volvo body for power anytime key is on and for power during cranking only. Follow the wiring instructions as described in the manual. It will explain that the what wire needs to be used to power up the fuel pumps. You will find the wire off the the ecm and you will wire this the the yellow and read wires that can be found on the body connector under the dash near where the stock volvo ecu was mounted. You will also find info on wiring the temp gauge and tach in the manual. The tach wire to the volvo gauge can be found on the electrical distribution block by the battery and the engine temp wire is on the grey connector on the fire wall and is yellow in color. The starting system is very simple, you will wire the ford starter relay exactly how it was in the ford with the one large post having power right from B+ and the other larger terminal on the solenoid will have a cable directly to the starter. The cranking signal wire that you will run to the small terminal on the starter relay/solenoid. You will find the wire on the grey connector on the firewall and it is blue and yellow in color. I also used this signal tapped into at the relay for my ecm cranking signal wires. And last but not least is the wiring for the charging system, again you will wire the system just like it was removed from the ford but you will wan to strip down this harness so it only contains the wiring for the alternator. After you do this you will wiring the signal for the charger indicator witch you will again find from the grey connector on the firewall the wire for this if i remember is black. You will wire this to the field circuit of the alternator. The rest of the wires will run to the starter solenoid a will in return run to battery B+.
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Old 06-13-2014, 03:44 PM   #15
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TP any pics of your data port mounting/location?
Still looking at options.
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Old 06-13-2014, 04:44 PM   #16
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I mounted mine directly under the steering column. You only need to bring two leads in through the firewall. B+ and ground available 'rat there'.

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