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Vintage 72 142 front brakes are binding really bad.

Well, I have a new, year correct ATE MC waiting in Davis for my next paycheck. I'm also waiting on the grommets and reservoir cap from ipd. If the calipers turn out ok, i'll get paid and hopefully bury this problem.
 
FWIW, has any previous owner/s substitute *hydraulic jack fluid* for *brake fluid*, in the past?

And yes it does happen. I've seen a bodyman at a Toyota dealership do it, and I once bought a 68 Impala that the PO did this to.

It causes the seals to swell, and brakes to lock up. Both on drum & disc brakes.
 
I don't think so, I had the brakes bled by a volvo mechanic about 9 months ago, hopefully he put in DOT4 brake fluid.
Is the color much different than brake fluid?
 
Listen , its not that hard : Remove pads , have the pistons without a pad between the disc and piston on one side of one caliper at a time.

Pads can be rusted solid in the calipers , it thats not the case , have a buddy press the pedal gently , while you have a bar or something between 2 pistons and the disc. Once they move a bit , release pedal and push pistons back in.

You should be able to do so with only a little resistance. Sometimes you just need a few in-an-out movements to free up pistons.

Rubber lines sometimes collapse inside , and only allow fluid to be pushed through. If you already replaced them , thats not your problem.

If the pads drag slightly , the disc heats up and gets thicker , which increases the binding....
 
Alright, right now I have taken the master cylinder off, the pedal is free but caliper pistons still aren't moving. Should I crack the caliper bleeders to release the built up pressure? IF that doesn't free the pistons then I should take the pad out and try pushing a piston back, with the bleeder nuts loosened at the same time?
f137.jpg

adjusting nut and thrust rod.
 
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Are you saying that with the master cyl off the brakes are still locked up? That would blow the theory of pressure buildup as there shouldn't be any pressure in there with the lines open like that. Now is the time to take the pads out and see if you can move the pistons. I don't think you have mentioned ever having replaced the front pads or pushed those pistons back. Try the procedure suggested by viking20 above (carefully), after you have tried to move them back into the caliper. If you end up moving them in and out a few times, and get an improvement in motion, that could be rough on the seals. If they are frozen, you have nothing to lose by doing this, though. Just watch them for leaks afterwards.
 
Ok, the front calipers are the originals except the pads were replaced about a year ago. I'm definitely going to try pushing them tomorrow morning. Thank you!
 
IME, once a caliper piston statrs sticking, it's all downhill from there.

Replace the calipers with remanned units, after all your life depends on your brakes.

FWIW, most likely the rears are in need of replacing too. Rears are the first to stick IME. until purged and clean fluid is coming outta all bleed valve.

You also need to refer to brake sectio of a Volvo manual and bleed to caliper bleed valves in the proper sequence.

If front ones are stuck solid, so are the rears unless they have been replaced recently.

I'd replace them all, and the M/C too, and then bleed the whole system i

You don't happen to know who the PO is/was do you? I ask because I have run into a few cases where previous pwners substituted hydraulic jack oil for brake fluid. I hope this does not turn out to be the case in your instance. It is very costly/time consuming to fix that problem.
 
I don't know the original owner and I replaced the back calipers with remanued ones about 6 months ago. I have had the brakes bled by a professional volvo mechanic after replacing the back calipers. I don't think he would have put non brake fluid in there.
I'm just worried that the brake booster is fubar. All that rust makes me kinda nervous.
 
mjcerati said:
I don't know the original owner and I replaced the back calipers with remanued ones about 6 months ago. I have had the brakes bled by a professional volvo mechanic after replacing the back calipers. I don't think he would have put non brake fluid in there.
I'm just worried that the brake booster is fubar. All that rust makes me kinda nervous.
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Slap some new front calipers on it if they are sticking. Did ya put on a new M/C with the rear calipers?
 
mjcerati said:
it's the original master. I'm kinda learning as I go and weary about misdiagnosing a problem and buying the wrong replacement.
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Most any brake part/s on a 140 that are OEM equipment when it left Volvo in 1968-74 is most likely in *dire need* of replacement with a new /remanned unit. That if you want brakes that work & are safe.
The booster may be the biggest problem, as far s finding one.
 
Having a power brake booster that functions properly is nice...but I would guess half the 140's still on the road have failed boosters. If the braking system is working properly, the car will stop straight and true w/o a functioning booster. Sure, it takes a bit more leg power, but it is certainly doable. Having totally rebuilt a 140 a few years back, I can assure you the booster is not the issue. The fact your m/c is out of the equation and the brakes still bind means either the calipers are poo or the front lines are. You said you replaced all the lines so...
I've had good luck with rockauto.com's reman calipers..$35 plus $10 refundable core each.
 
Yep you guys are so right! look at this mess.
left side
DSCN0245.jpg

right side
DSCN0241.jpg

I pressed them back to get a pad out. Then, I went and pushed the brake pedal, going back and pushing them back down again with a c clamp. So, I guess the pistons are not rusted? They both look like ass. Im still going to replace the mc along with remanued calipers and do a complete bleed.
Also, can I spray some PB blaster around the brake booster thrust rod and adjusting screw? I wont touch the screw, I just want some anti Iron(III) stuff in there. Is it ok if I hit the thrust rod seal with some PB blaster as well?
 
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So I have new Girlings on and the piping all connected.
To put the new pads in, I'm reading I need to depress the caliper pistons to make room for the pads. Is there a tool I can use to press the pistons down? Do I have to take the calipers off the rotors to press them correctly? Also, the pad shims are individual pieces not connected to the back of the pads. Do I have to put some sort of adhesive on the back of the pads for them?
Once the pads are in, I can install the new MC and then finally do a comprehensive bleed.
 
mjcerati said:
So I have new Girlings on and the piping all connected.
To put the new pads in, I'm reading I need to depress the caliper pistons to make room for the pads. Is there a tool I can use to press the pistons down? Do I have to take the calipers off the rotors to press them correctly? Also, the pad shims are individual pieces not connected to the back of the pads. Do I have to put some sort of adhesive on the back of the pads for them?
Once the pads are in, I can install the new MC and then finally do a comprehensive bleed.
Click to expand...

A special tool can be had for $20 or so at any auto parts store. Kinda looks like a caulk gun with two flat surfaces instead of a tube of caulk.

I just put the old pad on top of the pistons and compress them with my 36" knipex pliers.
 
Lando said:
A special tool can be had for $20 or so at any auto parts store. Kinda looks like a caulk gun with two flat surfaces instead of a tube of caulk.

I just put the old pad on top of the pistons and compress them with my 36" knipex pliers.
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^ This, big channel locks or a C clamp.

No the anti-squeal backing plates just sit in a thin bed of hi-temp axle grease.

Be sure to bench bleed the MC if new or not kept full of fluid.
 
Redwood Chair said:
^ This, big channel locks or a C clamp.

No the anti-squeal backing plates just sit in a thin bed of hi-temp axle grease.

Be sure to bench bleed the MC if new or not kept full of fluid.
Click to expand...

I prefer the permatex grease with the graphite, none of the other lubes seem to last and eventually squeak.
 
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