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Old 06-18-2012, 12:47 AM   #1
jeblieWun
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Default I blew up my engine

As a result of driving with a catastrophic oil leak, I managed to blow up my engine. This came after a decision to change to a synthetic heavier oil that seemed to leak out of my seals faster than what I was using before.

So I am deciding to fix the car with the help of a good man that goes by zvolv. Z helped me do the in tank pump on my car and I am very gracious of his expertise and work.

He probably has this all covered, but for the sake of double checking and doing what I can to help, I wanted to make a post to describe what is going to be done and ask for any advice from the experienced.

The plan is to replace the block of my 91 b230ft. I want to make sure to address all angles of the motor swap to ensure that I don't run into any leaks again in the near future.

To those that are happy to help this young Volvo driver: What seals and gaskets should I order from Volvo? What other parts should I consider installing to the junkyard engine?

I have already considered the obvious such as RMS, headgasket, and valve cover gasket.

Thanks,
Jason
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Old 06-18-2012, 12:51 AM   #2
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Get the cam, aux shaft, and rear main seals from Volvo. I usually don't but people say they are better. I get all my gaskets from azautohaus.com. Get the "Elring" brand. Awesome prices and free shipping on orders over $50. Order a splash pan while you're at it since it will be free to ship it! I'd replace all the accessory bushings, belts, and maybe even the pcv box.

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Old 06-18-2012, 12:58 AM   #3
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^+1

Don't forget the oil supply tube O ring while you're in there, and the long plastic PCV drop tube that is rock hard and brittle by now.
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Old 06-18-2012, 01:15 AM   #4
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Only use the red/orange volvo oil pump seals.
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Old 06-18-2012, 02:11 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeblieWun View Post
As a result of driving with a catastrophic oil leak, I managed to blow up my engine. This came after a decision to change to a synthetic heavier oil that seemed to leak out of my seals faster than what I was using before.

So I am deciding to fix the car with the help of a good man that goes by zvolv. Z helped me do the in tank pump on my car and I am very gracious of his expertise and work.

He probably has this all covered, but for the sake of double checking and doing what I can to help, I wanted to make a post to describe what is going to be done and ask for any advice from the experienced.

The plan is to replace the block of my 91 b230ft. I want to make sure to address all angles of the motor swap to ensure that I don't run into any leaks again in the near future.

To those that are happy to help this young Volvo driver: What seals and gaskets should I order from Volvo? What other parts should I consider installing to the junkyard engine?

I have already considered the obvious such as RMS, headgasket, and valve cover gasket.

Thanks,
Jason
Good choice, to stick with it!
Best of luck.
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Old 06-18-2012, 04:04 AM   #6
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If you get an elring crankcase gasket kit and cylinder head gasket kit it should have everything you need, including all the mains, oil pump o rings etc. The only thing it will not include is the little drain tube redchair mentioned. You will need that for sure, make sure you have it before you get started. Every redblock I have reconditioned has needed this tube, and they are never on hand, even at most volvo dealerships.

Try to get a 93+ block as they have oil squirters that cool the bore and help with piston slap. Also, get the front seal for the transmission since it will be easy to get to while your in there. Wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the motor mounts while your in there also. I'd also get several feet of vacuum line and replace all those as well. If your intake hoses are getting soggy, try to find some decent ones in the JY while your at it.

With your new block, run synthetic 15w40, or 5w40 if you are in an area that gets below 40 in the winter.

This would also be a great time to do the clutch, kill two birds with one stone. Keep an eye out for a clutch master while your in the JY.
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Last edited by Lando; 06-18-2012 at 04:34 AM..
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Old 06-18-2012, 05:02 AM   #7
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Yep, motor mounts, diesel-type if you can find them are recommended...although I just did "stock" replacements on 1 of my 244's with ipd parts, so far, so good...

http://www.swedishautoparts.com/240/...or-mounts.html

http://www.ipdusa.com/prodtype.asp?C...gorycrumbs=986


apparently more resilient to engine oil/grime/etc...follow RWC's advice...and get an extension for the flame trap...to position it atop the intake manifold (may not need it as it may have it?) but MUCH easier for maintenance down the line...of the 4 240's I have, all differ in placement of the flame trap WTF???...tranny mounts too...

Good luck and post-up with updates when you can...

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Old 06-18-2012, 05:04 AM   #8
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As everyone says, do all the hoses, all the seals while you can get to them, etc.. Pay attention to the PCV system, and make sure that the little PCV nipple isn't clogged. This is the perfect time to make the clutch happen, as well. Just use either Volvo OEM or Sachs parts, and you should be okay. (I used Sachs on my 744, because I came across a local shop that was going out of business, and they had one on the shelf for way below list. YMMV.)

If you can find one at a reasonable price, get a 93+ block to start with. The squirters do a nice job of keeping pistons cooler, and that should help things last a good bit longer. As for oil, I'm a big fan of the Rotella 5w40 synthetic because it's a good oil, and it's cheap, here. Other than that, good luck and here's hoping you get your brick back on the road soon.

Engine mounts: Get the Volvo ones... Tasca Volvo usually has good prices for OEM stuff, and I've had good luck with them. It may take a few days to get out there, however.
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Old 06-18-2012, 05:44 AM   #9
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Thanks much to all the thorough and helpful posts ^

Before this happened I made an order for the clutch kit, motor mounts and transmission mounts which should hopefully be here by tomorrow.

I just want to make it clear how huge this is for 'ZVOLV' to step in. I don't have the experience, tools or resources to do this this on my own and he is really going out of his way to lead me through this repair. I am going to do as much of the work as I can and I imagine I will learn a lot thru 'Z.' I'm hugely thankful and will of course be paying him for his time.
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Old 06-18-2012, 07:51 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ibcmoore View Post
Yep, motor mounts, diesel-type if you can find them are recommended...although I just did "stock" replacements on 1 of my 244's with ipd parts, so far, so good...

http://www.swedishautoparts.com/240/...or-mounts.html

http://www.ipdusa.com/prodtype.asp?C...gorycrumbs=986
his 740 doesn't have the wimpy style 240 mounts. the hydraulic mounts on a 740 are superior to that of the 240 mounts and the 240 diesel mounts.
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Old 06-18-2012, 07:56 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by darksider415 View Post
As everyone says, do all the hoses, all the seals while you can get to them, etc.. Pay attention to the PCV system, and make sure that the little PCV nipple isn't clogged.
+1 seals are obvious, but beefing up that crankcase ventilation is just as necessary. i did the stealthfti mod of two nipples on the black box thing under the intake, both ran to a catch can

otherwise, i wouldn't worry too much, major oil loss will kill just about anything in short time, not really the motors fault, just keep it in the block this time and she'll do fine :D

gl
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Old 06-18-2012, 09:50 AM   #12
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I wouldn't bother with the head gasket, unless you can see it is leaking or compression number is bad.
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Old 06-18-2012, 10:09 AM   #13
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I wouldn't bother with the head gasket, unless you can see it is leaking or compression number is bad.
The head gasket kit may be unnecessary, but even if he doesnt need to do the head gasket, it comes with the rest of the seals for cheaper than you could get them individually and ensures he doesnt forget anything. And if his head gasket ever does fail, hes got a spare lying around.
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Old 06-18-2012, 08:41 PM   #14
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I suggest that you replace the oil pump, not just the oil pump O-ring, when installing a used long block.

Invest in an engine stand.
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Old 06-18-2012, 08:55 PM   #15
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This just came in.

Last edited by jeblieWun; 06-18-2012 at 09:39 PM..
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Old 06-18-2012, 09:04 PM   #16
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I still have to talk to ZVOLV about how we are going to approach this. Right now I have a stripped threads on my head for the exhaust manifold so it may make sense pick up an entire engine.

If I manage to find a 94+ with squirters is it going to have the same manifolds everything?

If I decide to keep my head I could send it to a machine shop to get cleaned up and rethreaded then maybe do new valve stem seals etc.
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Old 06-18-2012, 10:12 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Mr. V View Post
I suggest that you replace the oil pump, not just the oil pump O-ring, when installing a used long block.

Invest in an engine stand.
REALLY not necessary. The OEM pump is around $900 at dealer cost, and all aftermarket pumps are probably worse off new than your used one. I have seen factory oil pumps on volvos with over 500k miles on them. It's a volvo, not a chrysler product.
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Old 06-18-2012, 11:21 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by jeblieWun View Post
Right now I have a stripped threads on my head for the exhaust manifold so it may make sense pick up an entire engine.
Because a drill bit, a tap, and heli-coil are expensive?
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Old 06-18-2012, 11:33 PM   #19
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That's like $70! Almost the price of a whole engine around here ;)
(I like timeserts way more then helicoils)
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Old 06-19-2012, 12:01 AM   #20
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That's like $70! Almost the price of a whole engine around here ;)
(I like timeserts way more then helicoils)
A JY head can be had for $50 bucks, a much better alternative IMO than thread repair, which almost invariably causes issues down the road.
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Old 06-19-2012, 07:24 AM   #21
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PM sent, hava head I'd like to donate.
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Old 06-19-2012, 07:36 AM   #22
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if i had a choice i would not run a head that was oil starved since the bearings are the head. would prolly be ok, i'd inspect it, but if you're getting a better engine - for a little more get the head with it imo
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Old 06-19-2012, 10:16 AM   #23
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A JY head can be had for $50 bucks, a much better alternative IMO than thread repair, which almost invariably causes issues down the road.
Done with Heli-Coils a thread repair is a disaster in waiting. Often not long in waiting. Done well with a Time-Sert the thread repair is stronger then original and will never be an issue.

Have someone who knows what he is doing perform the thread repair and get it right with a Time-Sert.

Chances are that a used head will have one or more stripped threads too before this project is finished.

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PM sent, hava head I'd like to donate.
$hipping from CT will purchase a Time-Sert set for 8X1.25 to repair OP's head.
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Old 06-19-2012, 03:05 PM   #24
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Not to mention a used engine has like a 94% chance of stripped or repaired holes.
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Old 06-20-2012, 03:56 PM   #25
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Wow. Hope you get it all sorted out.
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