• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

B230FT Basic Build, Shoot for 300whp

496truck

496truck

New member
Joined
Jan 16, 2012
Location
Carver, Ma
B230FT Basic Build, Just need a runner at this point

So, my old 745t's original engine has almost 200k on it and really sounds like a diesel at idle, especially when cold. Put the word out that I was looking for a replacement/rebuilder engine to one of my customers who deals specifically with old RWD Volvos. Says he has a rebuilt B230FT with about 20k miles on it, unsure of year but knows it's not a squirter block. Price was right (get it out of here, pay me when you can) so I took a chance on it.

Looks fairly clean for what I want to do. I plan on cleaning it up, paint, new hardware where needed.
IMG_0270.JPG

Cheesy freeze plug repair. I have a correct replacement for it.
IMG_0280.JPG

2 broken off exh mani studs in the head. Currently working on removing the rest with heat and PB Blaster. Open to suggestions on these 2 suckers though.
IMG_0283.JPG

Standard issue 530 head with T cam.
IMG_0282.JPG

IMG_0281.JPG

Cylinder walls look OK, no ridge at the top just crud.
IMG_0278.JPG

Ooooooh, that sucks. :-(
IMG_0276.JPG


Now, he did call me yesterday and said he had an NA squirter short block that was going in the scrap pile. Do the later NA engines use the thicker rods? And are they a straight up replacement for the Turbo rods? If I can just go get the rods from the short block and swap them onto these pistons that would make this a whole lot easier to deal with.
 
Last edited:
You can
Maybe the whole squirter block is a better basis to work from ?
Dont know if your current block have the centre thrust bearing , they were made for a year or so with the small rods and the new style crank with the thrust bearing at the rear.....
 
You can use the MIG welder you have there on the floor to get those broken studs out.

Just carefully build up weld on the tops of the studs until you can grab them with vice grips. It will take a few tries.

Or, weld through a nut into the stud and turn it out with a wrench, may take a few nuts.


Oh, and I would probably just run the NA squirter block myself.
 
300whp is super easy to get with thes motors, there are alot of people on here that have done it, weak point in these motors are the connecting rods at that power range
 
viking20 said:
You can
Maybe the whole squirter block is a better basis to work from ?
Dont know if your current block have the centre thrust bearing , they were made for a year or so with the small rods and the new style crank with the thrust bearing at the rear.....
Click to expand...

I want to say that if this guy is discarding an engine, it's probably junk. He did say it is coming out of something and being replaced. It would take more time, more money, and more work to rehab another engine. If all I have to do is swap rods, seems like a better deal to work with this one even if not a squirter.

Was also thinking the early B230s (-85) were the real problematic ones without the thrust bearing. Could be wrong on that. This one has an 87 date code on it.

940 16 valve said:
I believe you're supposed to measure the other direction to check which rods you have. Turn it 90 degrees
Click to expand...

I don't think so, they measure something like 20+mm the other way.

sim said:
You can use the MIG welder you have there on the floor to get those broken studs out.

Just carefully build up weld on the tops of the studs until you can grab them with vice grips. It will take a few tries.

Or, weld through a nut into the stud and turn it out with a wrench, may take a few nuts.
Click to expand...

Gonna try that build up and weld on nut method. Thanx!

falunbrick said:
300whp is super easy to get with thes motors, there are alot of people on here that have done it, weak point in these motors are the connecting rods at that power range
Click to expand...

I was thinking it would be in the "safe" range with the thicker rods. Am I wrong? Trying not to spend a huge chunk of money (RSI rods) on this engine.

Thanks for everyones input so far. Keep it coming!
 
Well, there are a couple people here running 12s with stock big rod short blocks. Are they on borrowed time? This car is primarily daily driver, errand runner, child transport, grocery getter. It may see a couple trips to the dragstrip in a year, and that's estimating high. It's a 1.5 hour drive to get there not including Boston traffic. I do lean on the happy pedal a bit much at times but only to get to appropriate speed. Or to bewilder the guy in the next lane. :lol:

I did manage to get the rest of the exhaust studs out of the head, except the broken ones. Tried welding some material in there and a nut on the end. I think the aluminum head is just wicking away all the heat from the weld cause it just keeps breaking off at the stud = not good penetration. Guess it's time to start drilling.

Talked to the guy with the short block today. It's a 95 NA block that he is keeping the head and oil pan, I can have the rest. That should get me the thick rods and possibly a thick oil pump, as well as a squirter block to play with in the future. Although, with that said, if I get any deeper into these cars there would be a 5cyl swap rather than any serious money spent on an old redblock.
 
I have had 300whp for 3+ years of daily driven abuse. 92+ squirter motor will take 300whp just fine as long as you keep it from knocking or detonation.

It is in my mind that around 330+whp that you start really pushing the limits of the stock rods. As getting to 300whp is easy. But once you pass that point things get a lot more complicated if you want it to still be budget or cheap.
 
thelostartof said:
I have had 300whp for 3+ years of daily driven abuse. 92+ squirter motor will take 300whp just fine as long as you keep it from knocking or detonation.

It is in my mind that around 330+whp that you start really pushing the limits of the stock rods. As getting to 300whp is easy. But once you pass that point things get a lot more complicated if you want it to still be budget or cheap.
Click to expand...

You're one of those I was referring to. I've done so much reading on this site, not sure if I ever found a build thread on your car. But I do remember reading about it so I must have found one at one point.
 
No build thread, just random posts, I keep wanting to do a built thread but I lack the time and care.

What I would Like to do is get another 7/9 and start over and do a proper build thread with a ton of photo's and info . . . but that requires me to find another car to do such with. And right now my 944 while I would love to LH and Turbo it. .. . I am going V8 on.
 
bolt removal

Drill the center very carefully.the snap on easyouts with four sides are the best because they don't spread the bolt into the hole.heat the aluminum around the bolt the melt sex wax for surf boards into the threads.a trick I learned from a old trimmer @ 10 yrs ago. good luck.
 
Personally . . . No reason you should not be able to do it as it has been done. Myself I am a bit over 300whp with a stock b230ft. even a 100 % stock 530 head (it has a cam but that is it head wise).
 
bigreddog said:
Drill the center very carefully.the snap on easyouts with four sides are the best because they don't spread the bolt into the hole.heat the aluminum around the bolt the melt sex wax for surf boards into the threads.a trick I learned from a old trimmer @ 10 yrs ago. good luck.
Click to expand...

Same kind of method I used on the studs that were not broken, I just don't have any surfboard wax readily available. PB Blaster works in much the same way. I used the oxy/acetalene torches on the aluminum around the studs, hit the studs with PB while they are hot which cools the stud before the head, shrinking it and the oil wicks it's way down the threads. Works like a charm every time.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top