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Old 09-30-2013, 05:03 PM   #1
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Default first time rebuilding a 530 head

long story short... my 280k 85 volvo has 2 exhaust studs broken on cylinder #4. I failed at taking them out. Instead of rebuilding the head thats on the car currently I pulled one from a JY.

"new" head Came out of a 91 or 92 940 230ft engine with 180k miles

I never rebuilt any b230 head and I want to get it done right the first time





I know I need new exhaust studs - which brand and should I go with turbo or NA
I have reused headbolts many times on different cars - is this hold true for redblocks
should I replace valve guides, keepers seals, springs? which brand?
which brand head gasket?

are these sensors the same on the original head or do i have to swap them over ?


installing an "b" cam from this engine (square tooth) does the cam gear just swap over ?


since the intake is gasket matched I will do the same for exhaust

thanks for your help
Jack

Last edited by Jack; 09-30-2013 at 05:46 PM..
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Old 09-30-2013, 05:10 PM   #2
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Looks good.

I'd scotch-wheel it clean, check it for straightness, put a #400 cross hatch on it, schlap it on aaand GO GO GO.
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how psi stock cna support?

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Old 09-30-2013, 05:14 PM   #3
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what about valve seals? since I'll will be swapping the cam over
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Old 09-30-2013, 05:19 PM   #4
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what about valve seals? since I'll will be swapping the cam over
Why bother and take a chance on disturbing a good thing with factory settings that's proven itself to be sound for many years?

They will run practically forever with fresh Delo 15-40.

Like a million miles never been apart 'forever'.

 photo 965_000_miles-1.jpg

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Old 09-30-2013, 05:22 PM   #5
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I understand that. i'll lave them alone

cam gear square to round tooth anything I should know about?
exhaust studs? na or turbo?
ipd headgasket kit any good? http://www.ipdusa.com/products/6062/...asket-set-b230 the price seems right
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Old 09-30-2013, 05:26 PM   #6
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I'd leave the longer harder turbo exhaust studs in too.

An Elring head set would be my choice and what's been used on my cars.
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Old 09-30-2013, 05:29 PM   #7
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Definitely make sure its flat. Most of the heads I've pulled have been beyond tolerances when I've checked them. They can warp when you take them off, even if they've never been overheated and ran fine.
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Old 09-30-2013, 05:35 PM   #8
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You can get it flat with a piece of granite, some grip contact cement, and #400 wet dry.
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Old 09-30-2013, 05:41 PM   #9
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I'd leave the longer harder turbo exhaust studs in too.

An Elring head set would be my choice and what's been used on my cars.
cool I will get one going.

hot tank and resurface if needed is like $50-70 at a machine shop. I might just do that and have them replace the exhaust studs with new ones
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Old 09-30-2013, 05:42 PM   #10
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reuse head bolts? I kept the ones from the 940

EDIT; b cam not m cam
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Old 09-30-2013, 05:58 PM   #11
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hot tank and resurface if needed is like $50-70 at a machine shop. I might just do that and have them replace the exhaust studs with new ones
That is cheaper than a second head gasket set, if you have to do it a second time.
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Old 09-30-2013, 06:30 PM   #12
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Why does the last plug (the first on the left in first picture appear at different angle. I also cannot make out its electrode end. Cross threaded?
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Old 09-30-2013, 06:39 PM   #13
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poop... you are right. someone cross threaded it - only went in about 1/4 inch and messed up 2-4 threads. I'll have the machine shop clean that up also
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Old 09-30-2013, 06:41 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by jack8745 View Post
cool I will get one going.

hot tank and resurface if needed is like $50-70 at a machine shop. I might just do that and have them replace the exhaust studs with new ones
That's pretty cheap for that work.

For that price I'd do it too.

The turbo exhaust studs are harder and longer, PM ryanfay for the skinny on those.
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Old 09-30-2013, 06:54 PM   #15
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Why dont you run a cometic? And I wouldnt run delo if you have a cat on there, and or concerned with the smog. - It will break the cat down faster than regular oil.
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Old 09-30-2013, 06:55 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by jack8745 View Post
I understand that. i'll lave them alone

cam gear square to round tooth anything I should know about?
exhaust studs? na or turbo?
ipd headgasket kit any good? http://www.ipdusa.com/products/6062/...asket-set-b230 the price seems right
Think the round tooth came out in 93? Otherwise all square.
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Old 09-30-2013, 07:08 PM   #17
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should I exhange this head because of the spark plug fuk? There is 2 740 turbos from mid 80s in the yard.... for some reason im thinking that the later heads had larger valves ?
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Old 09-30-2013, 07:53 PM   #18
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Why dont you run a cometic? And I wouldnt run delo if you have a cat on there, and or concerned with the smog. - It will break the cat down faster than regular oil.
Smog, Jack-smog?



Since when does anybody on here care about the environment?

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should I exhange this head because of the spark plug fuk? There is 2 740 turbos from mid 80s in the yard.... for some reason im thinking that the later heads had larger valves ?
Kind of a toss up, a low mile head with only one small problem is hard to find.

On the other hand the machine shop can do all four and get steel threads in there...
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Old 09-30-2013, 08:08 PM   #19
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the other 230ft head at the yard has 199k on the clock so who knows how many real ones. others have 280k

but this is what I just found.... must have been on there for a while... you can hardly tell on the cam
front of engine cam keeper - all others are fine
opinion?



I only have cats on the shelf and in the laundry room
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Old 09-30-2013, 08:11 PM   #20
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You can get it flat with a piece of granite, some grip contact cement, and #400 wet dry.
RWC is, as usual, indeed correct on the granite routine- and it's not rocket science- BUT one must be willing to be VERY careful- as well as very patient. Check and recheck and then check again.

CLEAN EVERYTHING IMMACULATE SPOTLESS FIRST- during, after and then again.

Be certain to check flatness, as well at intake and exhaust. USE REAL, NEW VOLVO COPPER NUTS ON ALL EXHAUST RELATED. Assemble none without quality antisieze AND a tourque wrench; green book in hand.
RWC's elbows and wrists are torque calibrated- so ignore him when he says to forego the ACCURATE torque wrench.
Quality light will be needed to see flatness.
Yer DEWIN' guud!
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Old 09-30-2013, 08:12 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jack8745 View Post
the other 230ft head at the yard has 199k on the clock so who knows how many real ones. others have 280k

but this is what I just found.... must have been on there for a while... you can hardly tell on the cam
front of engine cam keeper - all others are fine
opinion?
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You gotta look at stuff in the JY much more very carefully before you buy it.
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Old 09-30-2013, 08:18 PM   #22
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only thing I torque is headbolts and wheels

rwc you are right but I was in a time crunch and only had 30 min to pull this ... my excuse
what do you think exhange?
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Old 09-30-2013, 08:21 PM   #23
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only thing I torque is headbolts and wheels

rwc you are right but I was in a time crunch and only had 30 min to pull this ... my excuse
what do you think exhange?
Yes it's two strikes now so back it goes.

You might want to take a straight edge with you to get some idea of how straight what you pull is.

Did the greedy bastids charge you separately for the cam and valve cover?
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Old 09-30-2013, 08:25 PM   #24
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Derp... How would Delo affect a catalytic convertor? Dwaw pitcher; pweeze? Abc, paint by number?

In fact, if, uh... My COUSIN lived where there were no emissions inspections, are there reasons that, um, my, ah COUSIN would get anything but less restriction and a touch better MPG- or are there other consequences of a removed or gutted cat on a '90 745T/ B230 FT /AW bone stock?
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Old 09-30-2013, 08:29 PM   #25
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Derp... How would Delo affect a catalytic convertor? Dwaw pitcher; pweeze? Abc, paint by number?
The high ZDDP content in burned oil will slightly shorten catalytic converter life, slightly if any now because the reformulated it to Delo LE.
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