home register FAQ memberlist calendar

Go Back   Turbobricks Forums > Mechanical > maintenance & nonperformance

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-28-2013, 12:01 AM   #1
nate2k5
Board Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Attleboro, MA
Default Rear Brake Line Problem

So I made it home for the holidays but am having an issue I hope I can resolve before I head back.

My rear left brake hardline that goes into the caliper is leaking. I know not many local places carry the correct size fitting to fix it. Ideally I could find the complete line with fittings and flares already made so I can just connect and go.

I have seen the front brake hardlines and the long rear but never the short rear. Are the fronts long enough to do the rear?
nate2k5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2013, 12:30 AM   #2
coonmanx
Board Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Default

Auto Zone should have the right lines. You might have to get whatever length they have however. I believe one time I just used a slightly longer line and used a tubing bender to make a few extra curves. Harbor Freight probably has a cheap tubing bender.

Best if you can take in an old line for comparison.
__________________
Jim C.
1984 242GLT with who knows how many f*%#ing miles on it anymore.
coonmanx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2013, 12:34 AM   #3
84B23F
Board Member
 
84B23F's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Kansas, USA
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nate2k5 View Post
Are the fronts long enough to do the rear?
Click on picture in IPD's Stainless Steel Brake Line Kit

While on picture, click left back arrow.

I have not messed with brake lines yet...but check auto supply
84B23F is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2013, 12:38 AM   #4
coonmanx
Board Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Default

I know that I have replaced a few lines with Auto Zone stuff. They have European, Japanese and USA style lines. But it's best to take along the old one to get an exact match.

Make sure to bleed that line when done.
coonmanx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2013, 12:38 AM   #5
84B23F
Board Member
 
84B23F's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Kansas, USA
Default

Front - Hose Length (In): 12-1/4 Inch

Rear - 13-1/8 Inch
84B23F is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2013, 12:41 AM   #6
Redwood Chair
K-jet For Life
 
Redwood Chair's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: SF CA
Default

No the front hardlines won't reach.

There should be something thaat you can make work at a good auto parts store as mentioned, but they will be steel lines not nickel.
__________________
Raise The Lowered


Image hosted by servimg.com

Quote:
Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
Folks on here don't know a good deal when they see it.
Redwood Chair is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2013, 01:15 AM   #7
hiperfauto
Board Member
 
hiperfauto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: So Cal
Default

Volvo hardlines after 76 are made from cunifer or cupro-nickel. This article from Skinned Knuckles magazine explains the advantages of the material (Volvo content).
hiperfauto is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2013, 01:25 AM   #8
Redwood Chair
K-jet For Life
 
Redwood Chair's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: SF CA
Default



Good stuff.

Post in wanted maybe someone is parting or has one in their culch pile.
Redwood Chair is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2013, 09:18 AM   #9
TrickMick
Broad Member
 
TrickMick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: norte carolina
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by coonmanx View Post
I know that I have replaced a few lines with Auto Zone stuff. They have European, Japanese and USA style lines. But it's best to take along the old one to get an exact match.

Make sure to bleed that line when done.
*AND*...BEFORE you crack the line put a double layer of "microwave SARAN WRAP" under the reservoir CAP to slow down the "leakdown" from the open line...
(essentially sealing the VENT HOLE in the cap....)

the caveat is that you don't want to BOTTOM OUT THE BRAKE PEDAL when ya
get to the bleeding part.... put a towel up against the firewall and push GENTLY
on the pedal until you feel the resistance of the towel....you'll get the air out
tuit de suite *and* you you won't shred the cups inside the MC bore...

carry on!....
__________________
In a closed society where everybody’s guilty, the only crime is getting caught. In a world of thieves, the only final sin is stupidity.

Last edited by TrickMick; 12-01-2013 at 11:21 AM.. Reason: tot he = to the....sheesh...
TrickMick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2013, 02:34 PM   #10
84B23F
Board Member
 
84B23F's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Kansas, USA
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
This article from Skinned Knuckles magazine explains the advantages of the material (Volvo content).
Nice to know...those in salt belt tend to have those brake issues...the most.
84B23F is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2013, 03:35 PM   #11
TrickMick
Broad Member
 
TrickMick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: norte carolina
Default

http://www.fedhillusa.com/

*my* source...
TrickMick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2013, 04:42 PM   #12
petebee
Board Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Santa Cruz CA
Default

I just redid my rear brakes and have a left over rear driver's side hard line. Let me know...I can pop it in the mail if you cover shipping...good thing it is the short line.
petebee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2013, 05:10 PM   #13
M.H. Yount
Board Member
 
M.H. Yount's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Charlotte, NC
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TrickMick View Post
*AND*...BEFORE you crack the line put a double layer of "microwave SARAN WRAP" under the reservoir CAP to slow down the "leakdown" from the open line...
(essentially sealing the VENT HOLE in the cap....)
I've found that saran wrap a piece of plastic under the cap slows down the leak; I've since discovered that a piece of masking tape sealing the vent hole in the top of the cap works even better - at least on mine. When I removed two front lines and capped the distribution block while doing a front brake upgrade, virtually nothing came out of the system as long as the vent to the reservoir cap was taped over.

Nate - I'd check around for a junkyard where ever you are for the holidays and see if you can score the line you need off a car there.
__________________
'82 242 6.2L; '17 Mazda3; '16 CrossTrek
M.H. Yount is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2013, 07:10 PM   #14
TrickMick
Broad Member
 
TrickMick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: norte carolina
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by M.H. Yount View Post
I've found that saran wrap a piece of plastic under the cap slows down the leak; I've since discovered that a piece of masking tape sealing the vent hole in the top of the cap works even better - at least on mine. When I removed two front lines and capped the distribution block while doing a front brake upgrade, virtually nothing came out of the system as long as the vent to the reservoir cap was taped over.

Nate - I'd check around for a junkyard where ever you are for the holidays and see if you can score the line you need off a car there.
*YUP*....just easier to slap the saran wrap to it...I've had a few
"go-rounds" here and other fora where the *un-believers* claim
*NO vent* to the MC...uh huh...troot dat!
TrickMick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2013, 01:07 PM   #15
nate2k5
Board Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Attleboro, MA
Default

thanks for the tip guys. will a local place likely have lines with the correct fittings and flares? i don't want to have to reuse my old fittings or make the flares. that's kinda the problem now, my flare is leaking. i would like to just be able to pick up a line with the correct fittings/flare in round the correct length.
nate2k5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2013, 01:32 PM   #16
hiperfauto
Board Member
 
hiperfauto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: So Cal
Default

You can buy one of these close to the correct length, but the fitting on one end will need to be changed. Most import repair shops will have the proper flare tool.
hiperfauto is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2013, 01:34 PM   #17
84B23F
Board Member
 
84B23F's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Kansas, USA
Default

Re: will a local place likely have lines with the correct fittings and flares?

84B23F is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2013, 08:32 PM   #18
nate2k5
Board Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Attleboro, MA
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
You can buy one of these close to the correct length, but the fitting on one end will need to be changed. Most import repair shops will have the proper flare tool.
why does the fitting need changed. i am looking to buy a line that i have to do no work to. i can't risk taking the line off to compare and being stranded if it breaks.
nate2k5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2013, 09:12 PM   #19
hiperfauto
Board Member
 
hiperfauto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: So Cal
Default

The inboard fitting is female and attaches to the flex hose. The fitting can be reused but you'll need to cut the line and swap fittings. If you get a line that's too long, it can be cut to the correct length before flaring.

hiperfauto is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2013, 10:50 PM   #20
84B23F
Board Member
 
84B23F's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Kansas, USA
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nate2k5 View Post
why does the fitting need changed..
When working with fittings, its not uncommon to re-use existing fittings, and flare pipe.

I really doubt some shop with flaring tool will charge much.
84B23F is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2013, 10:02 AM   #21
mtd240
Bored Member
 
mtd240's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Brookeville, MD
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
Time for new flex lines?

Also - regarding the SkinnedKnuckles article you posted - has the federal government issued regulations/standards for rigid brake lines? The article says they hadn't at the time, but have the feds (namely NHTSA) issued any policy since?
__________________
1990 245DL M47 LH3.1 - 344,000 Miles
1989 244DL AW71 LH2.4 - Sold
1998 V70XC - Sold

Last edited by mtd240; 12-02-2013 at 10:24 AM..
mtd240 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2013, 10:42 PM   #22
84B23F
Board Member
 
84B23F's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Kansas, USA
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtd240 View Post
but have the feds (namely NHTSA) issued any policy since?
DOT, and I don't have time to search thru their site, but here's an example page.
84B23F is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2013, 12:19 AM   #23
hiperfauto
Board Member
 
hiperfauto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: So Cal
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtd240 View Post
Time for new flex lines?
I'd say so. It's a jy diff, everything was cut.




Quote:
Also - regarding the SkinnedKnuckles article you posted - has the federal government issued regulations/standards for rigid brake lines? The article says they hadn't at the time, but have the feds (namely NHTSA) issued any policy since?
I checked NHTSA's website and didn't find anything regarding brake lines, just hoses and fluid.
hiperfauto is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:05 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.