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Old 02-10-2014, 12:57 PM   #1
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Default As the Engineers and Designers Intended: 1983 245 Turbo

The 240 Turbo was a marvel of the early 80s; fuel injection, a turbocharger, high quality parts, and a strictly functional design. Any concept put into production, however, loses a bit of technology and individuality as bean counters chop away at what is “unnecessary.”



My goal with this 245T is to build it as the engineers and designers would have wanted. It should do everything that a production car should with incredible ease, but those items, both mechanical and cosmetic, that were deemed unnecessary expenditures or simply not available in 1983 (but a better solution), will be incorporated along the way.


Accomplished thus far:

Engine -
Head and valve gaskets replaced
All vacuum hoses replaced w/ braided fabric line
Turbo inlet and intake hoses replaced
All K-jet seals and injectors replaced
CPR replaced
Fuel filter replaced
Throttle body cable replaced
battery lines
PCV box replaced
NOS replacement engine wiring harness
Rebuilt turbo-side wiring harness
Engine mounts
*need to price out a rebuild
*look at accumulator and fuel return line
*rebuild any unsatisfactory wiring within the engine bay

Transmission -
*needs to be resealed
*check synchros
*new clutch cable

Suspension -
Full iPD poly set minus the TABs
Bilstein HDs
New ball joints and tie rods
*need top hats

Brakes -
*iPD stainless lines, new rotors, and pads waiting for install with a fluid flush

Interior -
Rebuilt donor black leather interior
Installed VDO boost gauge in PSI to replace clock
Installed stock radio
Rebuilt power window switches

Exterior -
Rack removed and plugs placed
*windshield replacement
*new side and front bumper trim waiting install
*euro-square headlights with wipers waiting install
*marchal driving/spot combo fitted w/ custom mounts


I should mention that my mantra is “Maintenance is key.” This car will by my daily driver. Much of this build thread will focus on maintenance—getting and keeping the wagon at 100%--from K-jet stumbles to the smallest o-ring one can think of.

I am beginning with a 1983 245 Intercooled Turbo that has had a rather sad life. Its first owner dumped it at just over 100,000 miles after TWENTY-TWO YEARS. Then, a man who knew very little about maintaining an older CIS car drove it for another 13,000 miles until it died. The car was banished to the carport and spent the next seven years living there. A builder of Beetles and old Porsches purchased it with hopes of daily driving it in early 2013. He replaced a good bit of possible Stage 0 components, said he got the car running well, but it ended up with a horrible idle a hundred miles later. “I’m good with carbs,” he said.



And so it begins…

The car is structurally sound (upon closer inspection, it has been in a minor driver’s front fender bender). The K-jet needs care, the poor leather seats are roached, and of course, any 30-year-old suspension is shot. This is not my first K-jet car (three ’74 140s and one ’83 240T), but it is my first endeavor into K-jet troubleshooting as well as my first, real car build. I’m going to need some help!
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Last edited by 4-cyl; 09-04-2016 at 03:37 AM..
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Old 02-10-2014, 12:58 PM   #2
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I started with the original wiring. It was a mess.



Along the way, I happened to break off the spade connector (spade and connector were rusted together) on what should have been the Thermal Cutoff, but after a bit of confusion, it was found that the car had two Temperature Gauge Sensors! How lucky I was to have broken that, or I may have never figured it out. Poulson01 was awesome enough to send me an extra Thermal Cutoff for free!

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Old 02-10-2014, 12:59 PM   #3
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After removing the hard lines, it was easy to see that the Control Pressure Regulator was pretty gummed up. I disassembled, cleaned, and put it back together with new vacuum lines.



The check valve was installed after this photo was taken.

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Old 02-10-2014, 12:59 PM   #4
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With everything removed, I started cleaning up the block before I replaced the PCV box. I decided to clean the nasty valve cover as well. Then I found this…



At which point, things escalated quite quickly.



I found what I thought to be the culprit in the #4 fire ring.



The machine shop checked the head. They said it was within spec, so I didn’t have it machined.
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Old 02-10-2014, 01:00 PM   #5
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While I was waiting on the head gasket kit, I started cleaning everything else up including chasing the threads on every nut and stud possible.



Then, I soldered up the new wires I got from Dave Barton, and connected them to the OEM replacement harness I got from philski o’flood.


Last edited by 4-cyl; 07-10-2014 at 07:54 PM..
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Old 02-10-2014, 01:00 PM   #6
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With the head gasket kit still in the mail, I turned my attention towards the interior. The door cards are perfect, but the seats were roached.



I got everything out, and went to town with the vacuum.



The seat rails were pretty hard to move, so I put some silicone grease where possible. One of the rails on the passenger’s seat was incredibly stiff. I found that a quarter had somehow become wedged at a 45˚ angle inside the rail! That took an hour to remove…



I’ll post pictures of the now finished interior when I get the car back out into the sunlight.
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Old 02-10-2014, 01:01 PM   #7
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I got the car back together and started it up. Having never replaced a head gasket before, I didn’t realize that the smoke would still come out after the replacement due to coolant being in the exhaust. It ran great for 150 miles until the shifter became a free agent. At this point, I need to drop the transmission to get to (what I think is the problem) the pin.
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Old 02-10-2014, 04:12 PM   #8
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Nice project!
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Old 02-10-2014, 06:04 PM   #9
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The attention to detail is amazing!! Please keep going with amazing pictures.
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Old 02-10-2014, 06:37 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by 4-cyl View Post
At this point, I need to drop the transmission to get to (what I think is the problem) the pin.
Yep, that can happen. pretty easy fix. you can actually get to it without dropping the trans, but if you're looking for a reason to yank the trans... have fun!
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Old 02-10-2014, 07:38 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by blkaplan View Post
Yep, that can happen. pretty easy fix. you can actually get to it without dropping the trans, but if you're looking for a reason to yank the trans... have fun!
I think I may have been a bit vague. From under the car, it feels like the shift rod has come unattached from the trans via part #12. Part #10 is still attached to the shift rod (as is part #9). As far as I know, there's no way to get at that pin with the trans still bolted up (without hacking up the tunnel), but if you know how, I'd be happy to read your advice!

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Old 02-10-2014, 07:40 PM   #12
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The attention to detail is amazing!! Please keep going with amazing pictures.
Thanks. I'm glad someone is enjoying the thread so far. So many people have given me help here, so I thought it would be good to get more information out there into the ethers where possible.
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Old 02-10-2014, 07:46 PM   #13
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For that #12 pin, lower the transmission as long as you can (so that the head rests gently on the firewall. Then use a mechanics pic that has a 90 degree tip and slip it under the pin and rotate the pick so that it pushes the pin upwards.
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Old 02-10-2014, 07:54 PM   #14
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For that #12 pin, lower the transmission as long as you can (so that the head rests gently on the firewall. Then use a mechanics pic that has a 90 degree tip and slip it under the pin and rotate the pick so that it pushes the pin upwards.
Interesting. So you're saying it is possible to rotate the engine back far enough to get a clear sight line to the pin. I'll give it a shot next weekend. I'm pretty sure the main seal is ok for now, so I'd rather not pull the trans.
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Old 02-10-2014, 07:57 PM   #15
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Beautiful car. Looking forward to following the project.
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Old 02-10-2014, 08:09 PM   #16
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Doing things right.
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Old 02-10-2014, 08:12 PM   #17
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That is going to be one nice build!

I think the cars would have been way better if the Engineers really had it made the way they wanted it....you know the damn bean counters squashed a few great ideas!
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Old 02-10-2014, 09:31 PM   #18
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You're off to a great start. Looking forward to seeing it progress.
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Old 02-10-2014, 09:38 PM   #19
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Beautiful car. Looking forward to following the project.
Yeah great thread, love the attention to detail in your post and your project!!

Love the black interior!
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Old 02-10-2014, 09:55 PM   #20
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That bulge in the fire ring on #4 is what I was talking about. That's where the big coolant passages vs small coolant passages issue comes up.
Do a Google and you'll find pics showing the different cylinder heads for sure.

This is all trivial really, but it's still interesting. The larger coolant passages leave less aluminum to grab that fire ring right where it's pushed out on yours.

Edit: P.S. Sweet build!
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Old 02-10-2014, 09:57 PM   #21
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I like your progress, fixing the problems instead of bandaiding them. keep it up.
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Old 02-10-2014, 10:01 PM   #22
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Also, I don't know weather or not you saw but, in the for sale section, there's a guy making ****ing beautiful replacement seat covers!
Mopar318 I'm pretty sure is your guy.
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Old 02-10-2014, 10:05 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by poulson01 View Post
That bulge in the fire ring on #4 is what I was talking about. That's where the big coolant passages vs small coolant passages issue comes up.
Do a Google and you'll find pics showing the different cylinder heads for sure.

This is all trivial really, but it's still interesting. The larger coolant passages leave less aluminum to grab that fire ring right where it's pushed out on yours.

Edit: P.S. Sweet build!
This is the kind of information that is so valuable to me. Honestly I don't even know the name of my head. I think I deduced that the b21ft head is a "530"? If I could just figure out where to look on the head for that information (if it's there), I think I could learn a lot more via the search. I'm assuming the older heads (with smaller coolant passages as you mentioned in another thread) and newer heads still have the same head number.
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Old 02-10-2014, 10:07 PM   #24
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Also, I don't know weather or not you saw but, in the for sale section, there's a guy making ****ing beautiful replacement seat covers!
Mopar318 I'm pretty sure is your guy.
I already found a minty, full set of black, leather seats that I've installed. ;) Thanks though!
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Old 02-10-2014, 10:23 PM   #25
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You should have a 398 casting number.
By the year of your car, it is most likely small coolant passage but, who knows?
You had a surprise with your sensors.
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