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#1 |
I do my own stunts
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: LaSalle ON
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![]() As the car currently sits. See below for story and build progress.
Hello, This is my thread in regards to my restoration of a 1983 volvo 242 turbo. Before I go deeply into the vehicle allow me to introduce myself I am relatively new to this forum but not new to Volvo's or the restoration of them. My father is Viktor Zoldak owner of Zoldak Motors or "ZM" for short. His garage was formerly located on Highway 23 in Palmerston Ontario but it's currently in Windsor Ontario. My father Viktor has been repairing and working on Volvo's ever since I was in diapers. Needless to say I have learned a lot from him when it comes to working on Volvo's. I have owned a variety of Volvo's throughout the years and my first build in high school was a 1969 1800s but I have owned several 200, 700, 900 series over the years. But I have always loved the 240's for their simplicity and my current winter DD is my 1991 245 with over 372,000 km's (and counting)! The car I purchased is a 1983 Volvo 242 turbo with intercooler. The car is silver with blue cloth interior and has an m46 transmission. The car belonged to a customer of my fathers who's original intent was to restore it. The car requires a considerable amount of cosmetic and mechanical work and after several years of ownership the owner finally decided to sell the car to me. I purchased the car in July of 2013 with the plan to turn this car into my summer DD. The car ran poorly and suffered from all of the ailments a 30+ year car could suffer. The plan I had was quite simple. Strip the car, repair the rust, repair the engine, paint the car, and reassemble and drive. below are some photo's of the car the day I brought her to the garage. SPECS B21FT Removed on 9/1/2018 with Low Compression after low oil Kjet with UTCIS-PT WUR Terminal 11 Trick 123 Distributor Rebuilt T3 at 15 lbs B230 Intake manifold 90+ Exhaust Manifold Milled and welded Jao 3" downpipe to 2.5" Exhaust HD Saab CBV IPD turbo cam KnockSense B230FT Installed on 5/25/19 LH2.4 w Sbabbs chips IPD Turbo Cam installed 3/30/2020 Wasted spark via Bosch 2x2 coil and Mitsubishi J702T Igniter 19T Full 3" Exhaust STS electric cooling fan Autocoolguy fan controller STS Cam Gear STS hydraulic clutch pedal w 240 master 740 slave. Do88 Charge Air pipes and Intercooler Do88 Radiator Yoshifab Catch Can Trans Tremec T5 with Hurst Short Throw Shifter (buzzing on coast down) 2.75 1 piece drive shaft from ShaftMasters. YoshiFab Billet Flywheel with FX250 235 mm Clutch Axel 3.73 Rear End G80 LSD Suspension IPD Panhard Rod IPD Torque Rods Volvo HD Control Arms PN 1229923, 1229925 GAZ Front and Rear Shocks and Struts BNE Adjustable Sway Bar End Links BNE QSRC BNE Camber Plates (ordered 6/19) BNE Torque Rods (waiting to order once stock is available) Wagonmiester Strut Brace Wheels / Tires 17" Eiker E1's
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1983 242 Turbo w Tremec T5 152,000 km's B230FT LH2.4 2019 VW Golf R w 6 Speed w 1320 kms NEW DD @smoothdurban on IG Last edited by smoothdurban; 05-05-2020 at 04:19 PM.. |
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#2 |
I do my own stunts
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: LaSalle ON
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![]() The first thing I noticed about this car was that it didn't appear to have too much rust. I had the opportunity to look the car over a few years before I bought it and as I recall I felt comfortable with the amount of repair required for this vehicle. It turns it there was a substantial amount of rust that I didn't account for which required extensive repairs.
On a side note the P1800s I restored in high school was much much worse then this build. I decided to start with the floor. I found the complete drivers side floor was rotted out so I began cutting repairing the rust. Drivers side floor front Driver side floor rear As I began to tear into the floor I noticed that the rust had crept under the seat support so that was also removed to gain access to it. Front section removed Rear section removed front welded rear welded center section welded Floor painted Last edited by smoothdurban; 01-01-2020 at 07:22 PM.. |
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#3 |
Rolling...
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Mid-Atlantic
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![]() Glad you're saving this one.
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"No man would listen to you talk if he didn't know it was his turn next." E. W. Howe |
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#4 |
I Roll
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Dela-Where?
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![]() Cool car! Look forward to seeing how it turns out!
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#5 |
I do my own stunts
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: LaSalle ON
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![]() So after I finished repairing the floor I noticed a small amount of rust around the rear wheel well and butt cheeks, so let the rust repair continue.
Rear Left wheel well repair. ![]() Inner rear left butt cheek. ![]() Inner right butt cheek ![]() I also had some rust on the roof and passenger side a pillar so once more rust repair Drivers Side Gutter ![]() Passenger A Pillar ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() The few photos I attached are only some of the areas I had to address. I ended us using a silicone bronze welding wire with my mig welder. I have mig welded sheet metal with carbon steel for many years and I have found it difficult to use on thin sheet metal. Silicone bronze wire flows nicely and grinds down very smoothly. I highly recommend using it for any sheet metal body repairs. Below are some picks of some small patch I put in on the fender using the silicone bronze mig wire. The thing I like the best is you can see exactly where your weld is and you can use it as a guide later when prepping for body filler or primer. ![]() ![]() |
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#6 |
Board Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Sarnia, ON
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![]() Hey cool! I've not seen one of these in ON yet. I'm only in Sarnia. Could probably pop down some weekend or something if you want a hand.
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2003 Volvo XC70 ![]() 1991 945GLE - 16v Wagon! (in pieces) 1990 245 - DD, Pepper-thing (car, wagon, boat, mobile) - K-cam'd and Dale-gear'd - now an actual fridge, probably 1987 760 Turbo Intercooler - dead 07/14/2011 Feedback Thread |
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#7 |
I do my own stunts
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: LaSalle ON
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![]() Thanks.
As I mentioned in the post my father owns and runs a garage. If you need any service for your Volvo he would be more then welcome to help. These cars didn't hold up to well on salty Ontario roads :( This one was undercoated to a ridiculous degree. This itself caused problems when trying to remove it to actually get to the paint in the engine bay. Last edited by smoothdurban; 03-06-2014 at 09:02 AM.. |
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#8 |
Board Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: London Ontario CANADA
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![]() Good start, looks like a fun project!
__________________
![]() 1981 242 DL 1996 855 GLE DD 2000 V70R (Sold) 1988 745 GLE (RIP) |
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#9 |
I do my own stunts
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: LaSalle ON
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![]() I have seen a few people repaint their engine bay and I must say it is very inspiring.
I decided to have mine repainted with the whole body. To save some money I decided to do the prep work myself. I started by wire brushing the entire engine bay then using POR's marine clean and then their metal prep and finally painted the engine bay with POR 15 black and covered it with their self etch primer. The body shop will be painting the engine bay when the paint the whole car so when I get the car back from the paint shop we shall see how it turned out. Wire brushed engine bay ![]() POR'd ![]() Primed ![]() I should be getting the car back from the paint shop in a few weeks so now time to focus on the engine. |
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#10 | ||||||||||||||
I do my own stunts
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: LaSalle ON
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![]() The engine on was my next area of focus. Aside from it being dirty it had a few vacuum leaks which caused some minor issues with the kjet engine management system but all and all aside from some cold running issues the system worked very well for a neglected 30 year old engine management system.
Needless to say I had a decision to make. Do I keep the original functioning Kjet B21ft engine? Do I install a a B230 with lh2.2? or do I got all out and build the 16v turbo that I have always wanted to do? Timing and financial constraints have kind of swayed me to reuse the original B21FT. The engine only had 111,000 kms on it (65,000 mile) and, aside from some minor acceleration issue at cold, the engine ran fine and performed very well. here is what I started with. This is one of those instances where I wish I took more photos but unfortunately this and the photo at the beginning of the build thread are the only two I have. ![]() The plan on the engine was simple. Clean Reseal Repaint Re condition the head Replace head gasket and bolts replace all vacuum lines replace all kjet sensors I replaced the turbo cam with IPD's turbo cam I replaced the stock exhaust manifold with a 90+ Added flexible oil feed and drain lines for the turbo. I kept the stock turbo as I have 2 rebuilt T03 sitting on the shelf New injectors and seals 73°C thermostat New belts New AC compressor Rebuilt alternator A good used wiring harness When I was reassembling the exhaust manifold I broke one of the studs (which is odd as I usually break them upon removal of the manifold. I decided to use time sert thread insert. It was pricey but well worth it and easy to use.
I also replaced the pilot bearing on the crank shaft. Some guys who work in our prototype shop let me in on packing the bearing with grease and then simply pressing the pilot bearing out. It was a neat trick and worked really well. I used a spare clutch alignment tool I had laying around and the pilot bearing popped right out.
Here are some photos of my engine before I drop it into the car
Up next will be the M46 transmission Last edited by smoothdurban; 03-24-2014 at 04:51 PM.. |
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#11 |
Board Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Belmont, MA
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![]() Progress looks great! I wish this was my car and motor! Makes me want to get to adding the 90+, stainlesss turbo oil feed/return.
3 things caught my eye... I think you actually want the 82*C thermostat? You put a 90+ exhaust mani on but not b230 intake mani? (keeping it stock on purpose?) With all that work be put into this car I would suggest ditching the crappy Volvo K-jet lines and have some custom lines made up from SpecialTAuto.com.
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08 c30 2.0 MT 06 s60R MT - Dead 84 242 Ti 4spd - A work in progress... |
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#12 | |
I do my own stunts
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: LaSalle ON
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![]() Quote:
The 90+ Exhaust manifold I had sitting on the self for 10 years. It was cracked but I had it welded professionally. As for the intake it was really a matter of preference. I have several b230 intake manifolds sitting on engines but I always like the flat look of the stock B21FT manifold. Custom fuel lines would be nice but at some point one has to draw the line when spending $$$. This car is not meant to be a show car but a DD. If I find fault with the fuel lines down the road I will certainly have some custom ones made up. For now the original ones will have to do and other then gaining access to the WUR they are pretty easy to change. Update **************** John just quoted me a reasonable price for this so I think I will have them done. Last edited by smoothdurban; 03-24-2014 at 07:27 PM.. |
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#13 |
Board Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Live Free or Die
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![]() Glad I checked out this build; subscribing! great project. Definitely going to find some of the SB wire.
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My feedback: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showth...hlight=didenpx 1970 1800E (Project Roedluvan:http://forums.turbobricks.com/showth...highlight=1970) 1977 242DL "Senf" (Summer Cruiser) 2x1973 1800 ES (Project Reanimator; disassembly and parts detailing to begin Winter 2020) |
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#14 |
I do my own stunts
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: LaSalle ON
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![]() After completing the engine I decided to work on sealing the transmission. The Original M46 transmission didn't have any major leaks and worked fine. So I decided to replace the rear OD output shaft seal and gear box input shaft seal. To replace the input shaft seal I needed to remove the bell housing and thus replace the bell housing gasket. The clutch fork was severely corroded so I sand blasted it and POR'd it. I drained all the fluid from the m46 and refilled (overfilled but I will set this to the right level once installed in the car) with Type F ATF. I then proceeded to tilt the trans first forward to check if there where any leaks through the new bell housing gasket or input shaft seal. There was none
![]() I installed the machined flywheel, clutch pressure and friction plate. Then I mated the M46 to the engine. I will be sending the starter out for a rebuilt just to be sure it won't fail me down the road. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() My body man has informed me my car should be ready this Friday so I am looking forward to getting this thing back from paint and begin the reassembly process. Last edited by smoothdurban; 04-02-2014 at 07:07 AM.. |
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#15 |
Board Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Australia
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![]() Will be following this thread. Love your work and the saving of another
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#16 |
Board Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: NC
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![]() What kind of clutch is that? Where did you get it and how much did it cost? Is it rated for more than the stock engine output?
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#17 |
I do my own stunts
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: LaSalle ON
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![]() Its a Spec Stage 1 SO041 Clutch. They go for about $279 but I got mine cheaper on ebay
heres a link http://www.clutchcityonline.com/spec/volvo_240.htm |
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#18 |
I do my own stunts
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: LaSalle ON
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![]() I wasn't very pleased with the idea of re installing my original 30+ year old starter on my engine so I was going to at least send mine out for a rebuild
![]() Until my father dusts off this beauty and says, "it yours!" ![]() I guess anytime you get a freebe it helps out. The prongs will need some modification but other then filing one of them down it should do the trick. |
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#19 |
Board Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Jacksonville/ Tampa
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![]() Wow, real nice work being done here! If I lived in a climate were cars were commonly found in this condition I'd have probably picked up a different hobby lol.
I just pulled apart my m46 today, the OD unit was recently rebuilt, but it doesn't look like the rest of the seals were touched. I already have the input/output seals, but I didnt even know a bell housing gasket existed. What do you think about sealing it with RTV? |
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#20 |
Board Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Antioch, CA
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![]() You really need to slow down, you are making a lot of us (me) look really bad!
Car is going to be better than new when you finish it!
__________________
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#21 |
junkman
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: The Ass Cheek Of History
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![]() looks good (I crushed cars with a lot LESS rust)
btw instead of grease use wet bread next time in the pilot bearing - less messy |
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#22 | |
I do my own stunts
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: LaSalle ON
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![]() IMO I only use RTV if the sealing surface is badly pitted or not properly cleaned (with alcohol to remove all oil). We use it to seal transfer cases at my work and it works very well. The problem is that most people put to much of the stuff on and when the sealing surface sandwiches together it squeezes the excess into the the t-case which can create problems down the road. It really a matter of preference. I did use it to seal the oil pan, front/rear crank seal housing and the thermostat. On my M46 I was able to get the bell housing gasket surface very clean as so I didn't use it + I didn't want to run the risk that some small particulate breaks loose and clogs up the OD hydraulics.
Quote:
Next time send them up here! Last edited by smoothdurban; 04-02-2014 at 07:02 AM.. |
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#23 |
I do my own stunts
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: LaSalle ON
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#24 |
I Roll
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Dela-Where?
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![]() Wow, looking good!
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#25 | |
Board Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Jacksonville/ Tampa
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