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Old 06-04-2014, 10:10 PM   #1
Marvelous3
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Default Upgraded radiator 240 +t install

Now that summer is here in Georgia the stock NA radiator just isn't able to keep up in Atlanta traffic. To remedy this I've picked up this Be Cool universal aluminum unit.

Be Cool Qualifier Series Circle Track Hard Core Racing Radiators 35011
http://www.summitracing.com/ga/parts...5011/overview/

I'm very impressed with the workman ship of the unit. And made in the USA which is a plus I think. If this bitch overheats now it ain't the radiator's fault.





I picked this radiator mostly because of the 22" overall width. The ebay intercooler is only 17" tall and left me with 23" of space between the inlet and outlet pipes. I was concerned the 19" overall height of the Be Cool unit would be a problem but I hoped for the best when I ordered it.


So today I pulled the old NA 240 radiator out. I'm running an aux tranny cooler so removal is easy peasy. I go to test fit the Be Cool unit and it fits in between the intercooler perfectly. It's tall enough so that the overflow tank nipple doesn't interfere with the inlet pipe. The problem is that the radiator is too tall so the hood won't close.

So, I'm thinking I'm going to need to cut the "shelf" that the radiator sits on and fab up a new "shelf" a couple inches lower so the radiator will sit low enough for the hood to close. Has anyone ever done this?

Radiator and intercooler out


Just intercooler sitting on the "shelf"


It looks like if I get a sawzaw I can cut away some of the "shelf" that's rusted anyway like 24 or 25" in width, and then run some sheet aluminum to make a giant U shape support. What's TBricks think?
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Old 06-04-2014, 10:19 PM   #2
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Width of the "shelf"
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Old 06-04-2014, 10:23 PM   #3
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That lower yoke part of your frame pal.
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Old 06-04-2014, 11:22 PM   #4
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That edge is already starting to rust. You think cutting an inch or two of the rusty portion out would really be that bad? I can bolt in some bracing if structural integrity is an issue.
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Old 06-05-2014, 02:48 AM   #5
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the radiator support adds very little if any structural integrity to the car, you will be fine... way overkill but fine!
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Old 06-05-2014, 07:53 AM   #6
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I still say you're reinventing the wheel with that radiator. A stock radiator should have no problem keeping things cool.
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Old 06-05-2014, 08:09 AM   #7
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This is tbricks and he already bought it so I'm betting there's already sentimental attwtcment... Go buy some 2" square tubing run some 22.5* angles and drop the center 2" make like a u shape so it at least looks clean but ya that's the frame do this before you cut the old piece out so the car doesn't go out of square
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Old 06-05-2014, 08:26 AM   #8
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Why not just cut off the bottom part of the radiator so it fits the car. Shouldn't be rocket surgery to have someone weld it back shut and weld the neck back on.
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Old 06-05-2014, 02:54 PM   #9
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This is tbricks and he already bought it so I'm betting there's already sentimental attwtcment... Go buy some 2" square tubing run some 22.5* angles and drop the center 2" make like a u shape so it at least looks clean but ya that's the frame do this before you cut the old piece out so the car doesn't go out of square
I'm not talking about cutting out the entire radiator support. Just cutting an inch or 2 into the shelf. The intercooler would still sit where it does not but I'd have enough space to drop the radiator onto a second support shelf 2 inches lower.

Car going out of square? lol wat?
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Old 06-05-2014, 03:34 PM   #10
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Why not just cut off the bottom part of the radiator so it fits the car. Shouldn't be rocket surgery to have someone weld it back shut and weld the neck back on.
Hack up a brand new be cool radiator lol

I'll take pictures of my chinabay radiator that drops right in and was 110 shipped
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Old 06-05-2014, 04:13 PM   #11
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If you're gonna hack it might as well drop the whole piece and go fawckng huge on the intercooler as well...your intercooler options increase as well.
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Old 06-05-2014, 04:36 PM   #12
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Nice radiator, just make sure not to capture it too tightly in the chassis so that if you do encounter flex (and you will) you do not strain and crack your new radiator.
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Old 06-05-2014, 04:52 PM   #13
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Hack up a brand new be cool radiator lol

I'll take pictures of my chinabay radiator that drops right in and was 110 shipped
Why? It becool to modify a part to fit in the car instead of hacking the car apart. It still beacool radiator.
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Old 06-05-2014, 06:04 PM   #14
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Hack up a brand new be cool radiator lol

I'll take pictures of my chinabay radiator that drops right in and was 110 shipped
Details?
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Old 06-05-2014, 11:37 PM   #15
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I have a universal griffin that dropped right in. keeps my iron 6.0 v8 cool as a cucumber.
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Old 06-06-2014, 12:35 AM   #16
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$244.97 for only a 2 row.... By two ebay radiators and make a 4 row for that price.
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Old 06-06-2014, 08:51 AM   #17
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upgraded to a 1930 T bucket radiator install style.
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Old 06-06-2014, 01:48 PM   #18
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Here's pics, I'll find the link, pretty much drop in

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Old 06-06-2014, 01:51 PM   #19
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Do you have a 240 turbo oil cooler kit?
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Old 06-06-2014, 03:24 PM   #20
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Here's pics, I'll find the link, pretty much drop in
Nice! Please do post that link up when you find time. I will be ordering one when you do.
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Old 06-06-2014, 04:09 PM   #21
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I went and picked up some brackets this afternoon during lunch from Lowes. 4 metal L shaped guys bolted together like this. Each one would then get bolted to the radiator support. I can bolt these together a couple of different ways but I'm going to try them like this first and see how it goes.


Last edited by Marvelous3; 06-06-2014 at 05:20 PM..
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Old 06-06-2014, 04:27 PM   #22
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Here's pics, I'll find the link, pretty much drop in

Find this link please
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Old 06-06-2014, 05:28 PM   #23
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That is too much radiator for a mild red block. Also I had 2 1994 Buick Roadmaster wagon both with LT-1. One with toe package and the SS clone with ram air. I bypassed the cooler in the radiator after have the transmission built ($(1500.00). Heavy duty everything. I finally realized the scanner I had for them could read the transmission temp. I had a stack plate cooler rated at 32,000 lbs GVW on it and the factory cooler on the other wagon. To my surprise the factory set ran a transmission temp of 137 deg running down the road. And the the bypassed one with super large cooler ran 176 deg under same conditions. Talk about a mith buster. Someone pull in front of me running posted speed LOL. I did not get a chance to put it back to verify before this. Not sure the results (walking away) been the same in a 240 .




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Old 06-08-2014, 10:30 PM   #24
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And with a little cutting it fits like a champ.

During with some sawzall.


After much sawing and test fitting of brackets.




I pulled everything out after the test fitting and coated the entire radiator support in black rustoleom paint to prevent any further rusting and to keep the new cutting from rusting.

It looks like the lower radiator hose is going to be in the way of the clutch fan so I may end up going back to the e-fan if I can't get it to route a little more out of the way. There's a, what looks like, service port for the AC in the hard line from the compressor to the condenser that is majorly in the way. Took some coaksing to get it moved out of the way some. I'm going to let the paint set overnight, trim the brackets some so the don't stick in towards the engine bay to much, and it should be good to go.
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Old 06-09-2014, 08:41 AM   #25
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You had better have some sort of rubber for the radiator to sit on instead of the metal from those brackets or vibration will cause the steal to wear through the soft aluminum.
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