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Old 01-10-2015, 01:52 PM   #1
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Default B230FT Swap in 122s

Hello everyone,

Just like most 122 owners, the B18 doesn't produce enough power for me.

Looking to do the classic B230FT swap that everyone claims has been done so many time before. However, I can't find a detail write up. Here is a example of the kind of detail I was looking for: http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f75/...il-pan-622974/ OR http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f75/...tailed-637137/

FIX/ SOLUTION SUGGESTION INFO

This is the information I have gathered so far:
- Get a 740 (1990 or 1991) with a B230FT with manual transmission (M46). Will need the bell housing.
- Modify pick up tube for oil pump (motor mounted upright).
SOLUTION: http://www.eric-o.com/wordpress/the-...ing-continued/ .[B]

- If using a B230F, Block will need to be drilled for oil to the turbo and return.

- Get a 240 harness (used for 740's) from a Dave Barton. SUGGESTION: LH 2.2 instead of 2.4, way easier to get set up. You can run it with the EZK ignition from a 740 Turbo, or breakerless from a K-Jet 240 Turbo (pat244ti from TB).
INFO: 240 Harness= '89+ for LH2.4. '88 was the last year for 2.2

- VINTAGE TO OHC RED BLOCK MOUNT ADAPTER KIT http://yoshifab.com/store/index.php?...&productId=101.

- Modify IM (Intake Manifold).

- Fuel delivery system changed. Fuel pump put in. SOLUTION: run the stock sender into a 500ml/1l swirl pot, and run a high pressure pump between the swirl pot and the fuel rail.

- 50mm aluminum alloy radiator Volvo Amazon P1800 B18 B20 engine GT 1959-1970 M/T
- UNIVERSAL T-2 12PC 2.5" ALUMINUM INTERCOOLER PIPING+SILICONE HOSES+CLAMPS SILVER

- Distributor on back of head won't clear heater box. SOLUTION: Swap to a block mounted distributor and aux shaft out of an engine that was in a 240, assuming you have the factory heater box. In that case too, you will need a plug for the back of the head (http://yoshifab.com/store/index.php?...d&productId=21). pat244ti from TB
INFO: A block-mounted distributor (and intermediate shaft) from a 240 was installed as the head-mounted distributor would not fit without cutting the firewall. (I modified a B21FT distributor; however, a distributor from an 89-92 240 would be best as it would not require modification.)- http://volvo1800pictures.com/0_car_p...67_94_2645.php.

K-Jet INFO: http://www.k-jet.org/articles/inform...d-questions/#1

SWAP LINK OF B230FT IN 1800: http://volvo1800pictures.com/0_car_p...67_94_2645.php.

MS How To for 240, 740, and 940: http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_arti...40_740_940.htm


Can anyone point me in the direction of detail how to like I posted above that has the information I'm looking for? Or let me know what other key components that I'm missing?

Thank you in advance for your help!

---- UPDATE: 12/17/16 -----

This is the current parts list I need/ want for my B230FT swap. This is specific to my build and may vary for others.
  1. VINTAGE TO OHC RED BLOCK MOUNT ADAPTER KIT
    http://yoshifab.com/store/index.php?...&productId=101
  2. Volvo 740 Raditor
  3. UNIVERSAL T-2 12PC 2.5" ALUMINUM INTERCOOLER PIPING+SILICONE HOSES+CLAMPS SILVER
  4. H-Beam Connecting Rod for B200/B230/B234 152mm (100 each)
    http://yhst-26451710505916.stores.ya...roforb215.html
  5. ARP Headstuds for 8v Heads on B21/B23/B230 (1600-ARP8)
    http://yhst-26451710505916.stores.ya...hefor8vhe.html
  6. 125402 - Timing Belt, Water Pump & Oil Seal Kit - B230
    https://www.ipdusa.com/products/1193...-seal-kit-b230
  7. 120300 - Engine Oil Dipstick - B21 B23 B230
    https://www.ipdusa.com/products/9112...k-b21-b23-b230
  8. 121308 - Oil Pump - B21 B23 B230 (MTC)
    https://www.ipdusa.com/products/9907...p-b21-b23-b230
  9. 101466 - Oil Pump Delivery Pipe Seal
  10. 101408 - Pan Gasket Set - B21 B23 B230
    https://www.ipdusa.com/products/7034...t-b21-b23-b230
  11. 111709 - Adjustable Cam Timing Gear Sprocket B21 B23 B230
    https://www.ipdusa.com/products/6445...t-b21-b23-b230
  12. 103022 - Main Bearing Set Standard Size - B230 B234
    https://www.ipdusa.com/products/7854...size-b230-b234
  13. 101296 - Rod Bearing Set Standard Size - B230 B234
    https://www.ipdusa.com/products/7517...size-b230-b234
  14. 120108 - Front Timing Belt Guide Washer - B230 B234
  15. 120107 - Rear Timing Belt Guide Washer - B230 B234
  16. 121367 - Crankshaft Vibration Damper Pulley Washer - B230 B234
  17. 113828 - Knock Sensor
  18. Starter Motor & Solenoid
  19. Alternator
  20. 101383 - Head Gasket Set - B230
    https://www.ipdusa.com/products/6062...asket-set-b230
  21. 125016 - Timing Belt Cover Kit - B230
    https://www.ipdusa.com/products/1153...cover-kit-b230
  22. 125636 - Valve Shim Kit
  23. 112946 - Fuel Injection Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
    https://www.ipdusa.com/products/6210...ure-ect-sensor
  24. Volvo 8 Valve intake Manifold Isolators
    https://yoshifab.com/store/volvo-8-v...isolators.html
  25. Redblock "Delux" crank case breather kit (Catch can, oil cap, crank case breather and drain)
    https://yoshifab.com/store/redblock-...ather-kit.html
  26. B230FT Aluminum Freeze Plug Retainer
    https://www.deeworks.ca/product/b230...plug-retainer/
  27. 8v GM ls coil mount bracket and coils
    https://yoshifab.com/store/8v-gm-ls-...t-bracket.html
  28. Ebay Turbo Manifold
  29. Injectors (about $50 EA) or Green top?*
    http://www.racetronix.biz/items.asp?Cc=FUELINJ-00&Bc=
  30. MS3 pro
    https://www.diyautotune.com/product/...iring-harness/
  31. Billet Red block DSM CAS adapter (CAS off a 89-92 Mitsubishi eclipse with a 4g63) + 90 for CAS
    https://yoshifab.com/store/billet-re...s-adapter.html
  32. B20 Oil Pan
  33. Nuke Volvo 8v/16v Red block Fuel Rail
    https://yoshifab.com/store/nuke-volv...fuel-rail.html
  34. Volvo head/dizzy plug
    https://yoshifab.com/store/volvo-head/dizzy-plug.html
  35. AUX/ Intermediate shaft bearings
    http://www.vp-autoparts.com/main.asp...e&artno=463360
  36. 106261 - Crankshaft Harmonic Balancer (Damper) Pulley - 9135194
    https://www.ipdusa.com/products/5645...-damper-pulley
  37. 121366 - Crankshaft Vibration Damper Pulley Bolt - B230 - 963319
    https://www.ipdusa.com/products/9973...lley-bolt-b230
  38. MAF Sensor for LH2.4
  39. 113818 - Thermostat Housing
    https://www.ipdusa.com/products/4937...mostat-housing
  40. 125329 - Thermostat & Seal (188°F / 87°C) - 273459
    https://www.ipdusa.com/products/1198...eal-188-f-87-c

Thanks,

Last edited by HUB; 02-08-2017 at 09:28 PM.. Reason: Updating based off new information.
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Old 01-10-2015, 07:36 PM   #2
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I've never seen one thread with full swap details in it, there are quite a few decisions you need to make that take you down different paths.

I've never looked into Josh's engine mount adapter kit so I don't know if it gives you room for a head-mounted dizzy or whether you would have to use block mounted. If it mounts the engine upright and you're using the stock intake manifold then the throttle body will hit the inner fender, there are ways around that. If you're using LH2.4 there's a thread around with a circuit diagram for getting a Hall or maybe VR sensor to read propshaft bolts to give you VSS signal.
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Old 01-11-2015, 08:03 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Kombi View Post
I've never seen one thread with full swap details in it, there are quite a few decisions you need to make that take you down different paths.

I've never looked into Josh's engine mount adapter kit so I don't know if it gives you room for a head-mounted dizzy or whether you would have to use block mounted. If it mounts the engine upright and you're using the stock intake manifold then the throttle body will hit the inner fender, there are ways around that. If you're using LH2.4 there's a thread around with a circuit diagram for getting a Hall or maybe VR sensor to read propshaft bolts to give you VSS signal.
Seems each person does things a little different and throw in their 2 cents. However, never have seen the outcome of the work.

What does LH 2.4 stand for? Left Hand?

Do you have any info on the oil system or trans setup specific to the B230FT. Fuel pump would have to be added I assume. What are people you for the tank? Or something inline?

Thanks,

Last edited by HUB; 01-11-2015 at 12:26 PM..
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Old 01-11-2015, 11:47 AM   #4
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LH is the Bosch EMS you'd most likely get with your 940, if you get a 240 loom and use the 240 EMS then you might be using LH2.2. Can't remember if that takes a speed signal from the axle or not, not my cup of tea.

This is a P1800 but the bay and the space constraints are similar. He modified the B18/20 oil pump but if you're using a squirter block you should ideally chop and weld its pickup like this because it delivers a higher volume to keep the pressure up when the squirters open. To clear the fender on the P1800 he flipped a spare throttle body and welded it into the manifold, bolted the functional throttle body onto it. Josh's brackets probably keep the engine tilted because you LHD guys don't have the turbo/steering interference that the RHD steering column gives, you might be able to use the standard manifolds with his kit, ask him.

Probably the easiest way to deal with the fuel system is to run the stock sender into a 500ml/1l swirl pot, and run a high pressure pump between the swirl pot and the fuel rail. If you're not looking for big power and you want to save money and get dirty you could maybe find a way to put the 940 pump in the 120 tank, run a new fuel line to the rail and use the standard fuel line as the return.

We got the M90 swag over here so I can't help you with the transmission.
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Old 01-11-2015, 12:16 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Kombi View Post
LH is the Bosch EMS you'd most likely get with your 940, if you get a 240 loom and use the 240 EMS then you might be using LH2.2. Can't remember if that takes a speed signal from the axle or not, not my cup of tea.

This is a P1800 but the bay and the space constraints are similar. He modified the B18/20 oil pump but if you're using a squirter block you should ideally chop and weld its pickup like this because it delivers a higher volume to keep the pressure up when the squirters open. To clear the fender on the P1800 he flipped a spare throttle body and welded it into the manifold, bolted the functional throttle body onto it. Josh's brackets probably keep the engine tilted because you LHD guys don't have the turbo/steering interference that the RHD steering column gives, you might be able to use the standard manifolds with his kit, ask him.

Probably the easiest way to deal with the fuel system is to run the stock sender into a 500ml/1l swirl pot, and run a high pressure pump between the swirl pot and the fuel rail. If you're not looking for big power and you want to save money and get dirty you could maybe find a way to put the 940 pump in the 120 tank, run a new fuel line to the rail and use the standard fuel line as the return.

We got the M90 swag over here so I can't help you with the transmission.
Well thank you for the help. Maybe someone else will chime in and offer some more info. I'll keep doing some digging and share my findings.

I have updated the main post with the info you have provided.

Thanks again.

Last edited by HUB; 01-11-2015 at 12:25 PM..
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Old 01-12-2015, 03:39 AM   #6
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I am doing a similar swap, b230ft into an 1800es

You will need to swap to a block mounted distributor and aux shaft out of an engine that was in a 240, assuming you have the factory heater box. In that case too, you will need a plug for the back of the head [you can make a little bracket to bolt to the back of the head to keep the plug from popping out]

I would suggest running LH 2.2 instead of 2.4, way easier to get set up. You can run it with the EZK ignition from a 740 Turbo, or breakerless from a K-Jet 240 Turbo.

Good info here

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=114173
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Old 01-12-2015, 12:20 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HUB View Post
Hello everyone,

Just like most 122 owners, the B18 doesn't produce enough power for me.

Looking to do the classic B230FT swap that everyone claims has been done so many time before. However, I can't find a detail write up. Here is a example of the kind of detail i was looking for: http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f75/...il-pan-622974/.
Or
http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f75/...tailed-637137/

This is the information I have gathered so far:
- Get a 940 with a B230FT with M46 (need the bell housing).
- Modify pick up tube for oil pump (motor mounted upright). SOLUTION: http://www.eric-o.com/wordpress/the-...ing-continued/
- Get a T5 and have the tunnel modified. Get out of a V8 Mustang.
- Get a 240 harness (used for 740's) from a Dave Barton.
- VINTAGE TO OHC RED BLOCK MOUNT ADAPTER KIT
- Modify IM.
- Fuel delivery system changed. Fuel pump put in. SOLUTION: run the stock sender into a 500ml/1l swirl pot, and run a high pressure pump between the swirl pot and the fuel rail.

Can anyone point me in the direction of detail how to like i posted above that has the information I'm looking for. Or what other key components that I'm missing.

I currently have a M41. was planning to use the same trans, but some say it can handle the stock power of B230FT and other say it can't.

Thank you in advance for your help!

John
Looks like you have everything just about covered... I'd say that there is not enough room at the rear of the engine bay for a flywheel pickup unless it is installed with the engine /trans, so block mounted k-jet breakerless system would be recommended as another recommended. Going MS would also be an option since you could just run an aux fuse panel to run the ms, fuel pumps, wideband, injectors, coil(s), etc. Doing a Ford WC T5 swap you will want to do the driveline as well just for peace of mind.
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Old 01-12-2015, 09:04 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pat244ti View Post
I am doing a similar swap, b230ft into an 1800es

You will need to swap to a block mounted distributor and aux shaft out of an engine that was in a 240, assuming you have the factory heater box. In that case too, you will need a plug for the back of the head [you can make a little bracket to bolt to the back of the head to keep the plug from popping out]

I would suggest running LH 2.2 instead of 2.4, way easier to get set up. You can run it with the EZK ignition from a 740 Turbo, or breakerless from a K-Jet 240 Turbo.

Good info here

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=114173
Thanks for the information. The link really didn't offer anything new besides what everyone has posted in here.

When using the aux shaft, I assume I'll need gear/ sprocket for it to be used off the belt? I also assume a different timing belt will be needed?

I also think it would be easier to get a B230 SHORT DISTRIBUTOR (http://yoshifab.com/store/index.php?...d&productId=26) with SAAB "CRAB" STYLE DISTRIBUTOR CAP [(BOSCH) http://yoshifab.com/store/index.php?...&productId=23]. Thoughts?

Thanks,

Last edited by HUB; 01-12-2015 at 09:16 PM..
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Old 01-12-2015, 09:06 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by cwdodson88 View Post
Looks like you have everything just about covered... I'd say that there is not enough room at the rear of the engine bay for a flywheel pickup unless it is installed with the engine /trans, so block mounted k-jet breakerless system would be recommended as another recommended. Going MS would also be an option since you could just run an aux fuse panel to run the ms, fuel pumps, wideband, injectors, coil(s), etc. Doing a Ford WC T5 swap you will want to do the driveline as well just for peace of mind.
You recommend MS even though the motor will be kept stock for now?

Not familair with "flywheel pickup."

Updated this main/ first post based off new information.

Thanks,
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Old 01-12-2015, 09:40 PM   #10
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You may need a crank position sensor depending on EMS and how you want to run ignition. Crash course - I'm going to suggest that you re-read the k-jet to LH 2.X threads. The removal of the distributor from the back of the head (940 some 740) means that you need to get an auxiliary shaft from a B230F powered 240. You'll need the distributor from the same car. If you're running LH 2.2 you don't have or need a crank position sensor. The CPS is small and will fit in the 122. The distributor from a LH 2.2 and 2.4 are different...you need the correct unit.

I know that you'd like it to be all in one thread and a straight forward recipe...you're not baking a normal cake.
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Old 01-12-2015, 10:12 PM   #11
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940's didn't come with the m46..
1989-90? 740s were the last US spec grandpa car manuals iirc..
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Old 01-12-2015, 10:20 PM   #12
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940's didn't come with the m46..
1989-90? 740s were the last US spec grandpa car manuals iirc..
Looks like your correct. M46 used up to 91 on the 740s. 740 donor car seems it would be easier.

Thanks,
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Old 01-12-2015, 10:21 PM   #13
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You may need a crank position sensor depending on EMS and how you want to run ignition. Crash course - I'm going to suggest that you re-read the k-jet to LH 2.X threads. The removal of the distributor from the back of the head (940 some 740) means that you need to get an auxiliary shaft from a B230F powered 240. You'll need the distributor from the same car. If you're running LH 2.2 you don't have or need a crank position sensor. The CPS is small and will fit in the 122. The distributor from a LH 2.2 and 2.4 are different...you need the correct unit.

I know that you'd like it to be all in one thread and a straight forward recipe...you're not baking a normal cake.
I'm still researching.

And I WILL have my cake. Lol.

Thanks,
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Old 01-13-2015, 12:59 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by HUB View Post
Thanks for the information. The link really didn't offer anything new besides what everyone has posted in here.

When using the aux shaft, I assume I'll need gear/ sprocket for it to be used off the belt? I also assume a different timing belt will be needed?

I also think it would be easier to get a B230 SHORT DISTRIBUTOR (http://yoshifab.com/store/index.php?...d&productId=26) with SAAB "CRAB" STYLE DISTRIBUTOR CAP [(BOSCH) http://yoshifab.com/store/index.php?...&productId=23]. Thoughts?

Thanks,
Ryans [Smosit] sig used to have a link to a pretty in depth build site for his car, but it was on geocities. Now yahoo just rickrolls you if you click the link.

You can use the same belt. You can use the same sprocket too, you just need the shaft with a distributor drive gear set up for a block mounted dizzy. You don't need that short distributor or the cap if you are staying 8v, stock stuff will fit just fine.
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Old 01-13-2015, 07:28 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pat244ti View Post
Ryans [Smosit] sig used to have a link to a pretty in depth build site for his car, but it was on geocities. Now yahoo just rickrolls you if you click the link.

You can use the same belt. You can use the same sprocket too, you just need the shaft with a distributor drive gear set up for a block mounted dizzy. You don't need that short distributor or the cap if you are staying 8v, stock stuff will fit just fine.
I plan to switch to 16v way down the road. So that was my thought process.

Thanks,
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Old 01-15-2015, 09:37 PM   #16
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Bump it up. Put more information in the main post.
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Old 01-16-2015, 11:42 AM   #17
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You recommend MS even though the motor will be kept stock for now?

Not familair with "flywheel pickup."

Updated this main/ first post based off new information.

Thanks,
Thats the crank position sensor for (I Believe LH2.4) its a VR or hall sensor that reads a 60-2 flywheel. You can run a 36-1 or 60-2 trigger wheel off the front crank pulley. Mr.Borrie sells them at this website or on this board. They are an underdrive pulley, but that doesnt really effect much.

The reason I recommended MS is that the amount of upgrades and the extent of upgrades are almost endless and because there is a ton of support here and over at www.msextra.com You will also be able to keep the overall packaging small (it will fit on the glove shelf, or under it) without intruding on the overall look of the interior. If I were to do another FI install into a 122, I would go with an MS3 and the Diy relay board just for simplicity, its probably more simple than routing a complete harness from a donor car.
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Old 01-16-2015, 11:42 AM   #18
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As mentioned on CVC, do you have a plan for when it's all installed and you find the steering center link hits the front pulley at sharp steering angles? It looks like those engine mount adapters sit the engine as low as possible, which is a good thing for center of gravity but maybe not so good for other things. Prefab engine mounts pretty much dictate where the engine will sit. If you're modifying the tunnel and getting a custom driveshaft made, it might be an idea to hold off on engine mounts until you figure out where the engine needs to sit to make everything else work, not the other way around.
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Old 01-17-2015, 09:57 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by cwdodson88 View Post
Thats the crank position sensor for (I Believe LH2.4) its a VR or hall sensor that reads a 60-2 flywheel. You can run a 36-1 or 60-2 trigger wheel off the front crank pulley. Mr.Borrie sells them at this website or on this board. They are an underdrive pulley, but that doesnt really effect much.

The reason I recommended MS is that the amount of upgrades and the extent of upgrades are almost endless and because there is a ton of support here and over at www.msextra.com You will also be able to keep the overall packaging small (it will fit on the glove shelf, or under it) without intruding on the overall look of the interior. If I were to do another FI install into a 122, I would go with an MS3 and the Diy relay board just for simplicity, its probably more simple than routing a complete harness from a donor car.
It has been suggested by a few people to run LH2.2 with my setup vs LH2.4. Being told it's less complicated. Will have to do more research on the flyweel and MS. Both links you have provided to me are foreign to me...

Appreciate the help!

Thanks,

Last edited by HUB; 01-17-2015 at 10:05 PM..
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Old 01-17-2015, 10:05 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by 245gti View Post
As mentioned on CVC, do you have a plan for when it's all installed and you find the steering center link hits the front pulley at sharp steering angles? It looks like those engine mount adapters sit the engine as low as possible, which is a good thing for center of gravity but maybe not so good for other things. Prefab engine mounts pretty much dictate where the engine will sit. If you're modifying the tunnel and getting a custom driveshaft made, it might be an idea to hold off on engine mounts until you figure out where the engine needs to sit to make everything else work, not the other way around.
Dale,

I haven't heard of this issue besides from you on the specific mounts I planned to use... I'll go with these and see how it goes. If there is a clearance issue, then I'll have to attack it then when I run into it. I'll plan and budget this till I feel comfortable with the swap... Will I get every single piece of data I'm looking for so I don't run into any problems? Probably not... However, i'll try to be prepared the best I can.

None of this would be possible without the support and guidance from everyone on the forums.

Thanks,
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Old 01-18-2015, 08:02 AM   #21
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I can't remember where I took these from, I can't find them with a reverse image search either. It makes it look like if you keep the engine angled you can make everything fit with a hammer. You get to keep the stock intake manifold and throttle body placement, get to keep a diddy turbo by hammering the inner fender, and get to keep the head-mounted dizzy (maybe by hammering the heater a little).



This gives you a better idea than that P1800 conversion page of where you can weld in the spare throttle body so that it clears the fender with an upright engine.
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Old 01-26-2015, 06:44 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwdodson88 View Post
Thats the crank position sensor for (I Believe LH2.4) its a VR or hall sensor that reads a 60-2 flywheel. You can run a 36-1 or 60-2 trigger wheel off the front crank pulley. Mr.Borrie sells them at this website or on this board. They are an underdrive pulley, but that doesnt really effect much.

The reason I recommended MS is that the amount of upgrades and the extent of upgrades are almost endless and because there is a ton of support here and over at www.msextra.com You will also be able to keep the overall packaging small (it will fit on the glove shelf, or under it) without intruding on the overall look of the interior. If I were to do another FI install into a 122, I would go with an MS3 and the Diy relay board just for simplicity, its probably more simple than routing a complete harness from a donor car.
Sent you a PM.

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Old 01-26-2015, 07:53 PM   #23
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or there is this for the MS install if you decide to go that way.
How to Megasquirt your Volvo 240
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Old 01-27-2015, 06:57 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by cwdodson88 View Post
or there is this for the MS install if you decide to go that way.
How to Megasquirt your Volvo 240
Great Info.

Thanks,
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Old 01-27-2015, 10:24 PM   #25
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I believe the inner fenders on a 122 are structural, probably not a good idea to be hammering on them??
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