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Old 06-21-2015, 03:28 PM   #1
slow240
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Default 2" aint much, but I make it count.

I recently bought a 90 244 on cragslist for $300 with a blown transmission, traded a few parts for a new/used trans, gave her a quick polish, and added her to the fleet.






unfortunately the shocks/struts were totally blown, so I ordered some new units.



wait, whats that big aluminum bugger there? well I decided if I was going to be in the suspension, why not add some ground clearance?
the shipyard I work at floods fairly regularly, so it couldn't hurt right?






So far, I love it. its just noticeable, and I can hop curbs with the best of them. I have some longer shocks on the way from summit since these ones are fairly topped out.

I think some white letter tires on the hydras in the garage and Ill be in business
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'92 245. 601 red, stock, awesome.
'90 244. blue, tall, ghetto, fabulous.
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Old 06-21-2015, 04:11 PM   #2
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dam,that's what im talking about.
that's awesome!
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Old 06-21-2015, 04:22 PM   #3
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Quick polish my ass. I bet you were there for at least a half hour.
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Old 06-21-2015, 06:26 PM   #4
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Lol that is quick. I fired up the DA and had it shining in an hour and a half. But that's with two coats of wax.

Unfortunately there isn't a straight panel on it, it's just a beater.
I call it my rolling tribute to the Atlantic, blue, glimmering, and wavy.
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Old 06-21-2015, 09:13 PM   #5
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Before the lift - looks roadworthy. After the lift - looks seaworthy. Enjoy.
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Old 06-22-2015, 12:13 PM   #6
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Do you work at Norshipco or Colonna's?
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Old 06-22-2015, 12:15 PM   #7
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$300? Win.
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Old 06-22-2015, 12:53 PM   #8
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Norfolk naval shipyard. The big one lol.
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Old 06-22-2015, 05:21 PM   #9
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you need reverse roll correction spacers
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Old 06-22-2015, 05:50 PM   #10
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I actually have an idea of how to make those, just need to get materials and bribe my machinist.
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Old 06-22-2015, 06:40 PM   #11
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Norfolk naval shipyard. The big one lol.
I was a propulsion service engineer in a former life, went to almost all the shipyards in VA. I was at your place once.
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Old 06-22-2015, 06:42 PM   #12
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I actually have an idea of how to make those, just need to get materials and bribe my machinist.
Basically what you need to do is space down the front cross member and rear control arm mounts and extend the steering shaft linkage.
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Old 06-23-2015, 08:23 AM   #13
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Basically what you need to do is space down the front cross member and rear control arm mounts and extend the steering shaft linkage.
That was one technique. But that means I'd have to space down the trans crossmember, and the center support bushing.

I've got another idea, but I'm not sure how hard it'll be to make
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Old 06-23-2015, 11:50 AM   #14
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That was one technique. But that means I'd have to space down the trans crossmember, and the center support bushing.

I've got another idea, but I'm not sure how hard it'll be to make
You dont necessarily have to space down the trans member & center support bushing. You can always raise the motor mounts to keep it at the stock ratio to the body.
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Old 06-23-2015, 02:19 PM   #15
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Well yeah, but if you're lifting the car enough to facilitate a k-member drop, you're gonna want to fix your driveline angle.
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Old 06-24-2015, 01:13 AM   #16
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Well yeah, but if you're lifting the car enough to facilitate a k-member drop, you're gonna want to fix your driveline angle.
Thats easy enough with just the center support.
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Old 07-06-2015, 08:07 PM   #17
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Had a little fun splashing in the puddles today, Really makes me want more lift, and more tire... A LOT more tire. looking at a 215/75/15, thats 4" taller than the stock tire and easy to find since its the stock size for jeep wranglers.






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Old 07-07-2015, 05:00 AM   #18
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do you have pics of the front install? pretty interesting mehtod
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Old 07-07-2015, 06:20 PM   #19
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yeah Jerd did it this way as well, but he did coil overs in the front to free up more space for tire, and I am quickly moving that direction as well. Id love a 235/75/15



the spacer simply bolts in between the strut mount and the strut tower
pretty straight forward.
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Old 07-07-2015, 06:38 PM   #20
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235/75-15's are nice, but the 215's are much easier to fit with less rubbing on front fenders and rear axle articulation. Hard to find a nice 215 "mud terrain" for the knobby tire look though. Most of those start at 235/75-15. If you are just looking at "all terrain", 215's are fine.

I've been considering some Bush Wacker style flares to go to a bigger and wider tire (31's?), but they are expensive and I'd need to try several different ones to find a set that would work. I think the effort would be better spent on better working suspension geometry first.

Quote:
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Basically what you need to do is space down the front cross member and rear control arm mounts and extend the steering shaft linkage.
That would reduce ground clearance though and kind of make doing it moot.
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Old 07-08-2015, 08:19 AM   #21
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That would reduce ground clearance though and kind of make doing it moot.
But it would look cool duhhhhh lol

I have an idea for fixing control arm angle and camber simultaneously but my machinist thinks it a bit sketch. I think it would be fine, but I can't make it so womp womp
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Old 07-08-2015, 06:55 PM   #22
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Quote:
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But it would look cool duhhhhh lol

I have an idea for fixing control arm angle and camber simultaneously but my machinist thinks it a bit sketch. I think it would be fine, but I can't make it so womp womp
Well tell us what it is so we can enjoy shooting you down also.
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Old 07-09-2015, 12:20 AM   #23
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There are a few of us lifted now and i think we deserve to be in on your ideas haha
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Old 07-09-2015, 06:03 PM   #24
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its hard to describe.....

I was thinking of making a 1" thick adapter for the ball joint.

3 threaded holes to bolt the adapter to the control arm on top, 3 threaded holes (slightly more outboard) to bolt the balljoint on the bottom. that would theoretically fix the camber issues, and be a step in the right direction for the control arm angle.

I think if you made it out of steel instead of aluminum then it should be fine, but I'm sure i didn't think of some reason why that wouldn't work.
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Old 07-09-2015, 08:04 PM   #25
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"control arm angle" is a misnomer. It's the line drawn through the inner and outer pivot points that you should be concerned with. If you put a spacer between the ball joint and the control arm, you're not changing the location of the pivot points even though the control arm angle changes. If I misunderstood you, say so, but what bne suggests is to drop the inner pivot point to bring the "control arm angle" more towards parallel to the ground, which is the line passing through the pivot points.

My $250 dead-ecu-'90-244 was probably the best car I ever owned, at least for reliability and dependability. But mine lacked clear coat shine, had a leaky roof, a tan interior, yellow headlights, and did I mention the tan interior? So it had to go.
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