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Old 10-15-2015, 04:22 PM   #1
VeroDubs
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Default My first brick... 1989 240 DL Wagon

Just coming in to introduce myself. Just picked up my first Volvo. Its a 5 speed N/A 240 DL Wagon. I have always loved old Volvo's, just never been presented the opportunity to own one. Well this one came in to the shop and I got the chance to snag it up for $1k.

Car currently has 115k. It has all blue interior and no rust that I can find. we had it up on the lift and everything looks great. Only issues I can find are a missing door pocket, broken arm rest, has minor 5th gear noise (gonna change fluid and see if that helps), and factory radio is shot.

I come from the world of VW's and have owned and built a lot of them. Still own 5 of them. But I am not that familiar with the Volvo platform and will need some help along the way. I always research first, then ask question.

Been doing a ton of reading in this thread as I have built my own coilovers for my beetles and they seem to be very similar.

http://turbobricks.com/forums/showth...=Coilovers+DIY

My plans for the car are pretty simple... in order they are-
-Lower the car by snipping the coils.
-Detail the engine bay... can't stand dirt bays!
-Upgrade sway bars
-Get some wheels and tires, 16" or 17" depending on how low I go (I like cars low)
-Build a coilover setup once I find some used struts
-Maybe +T it... maybe.

Here are some pictures, since I am sure that is what most click on these threads to see.


















And here is the reason I bought the car when it came into the shop. Someone plowed into my 86 Jetta Mk2 on Monday morning on my way to work...

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Old 10-15-2015, 04:28 PM   #2
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Here's a few of the VW's from my past.

MK2 when she was still nice-



Previous 87 MK2 GLI



74 with Homemade Coils



My old 84 MK1 GTI

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Old 10-17-2015, 01:19 AM   #3
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ahhhh another mk2 fan i see! I've had quite a few now! I also went the 245 route! you won't regret it. a mk2 is one the best cars I've ever driven but my volvo keeps making me smile too!
id post pics of my volkswagens too but don't wanna clutter your thread
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Old 10-17-2015, 01:21 AM   #4
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That's a great deal! I hate you now.
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Old 10-17-2015, 05:05 AM   #5
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Hey! Welcome! Nice collection there! Shame about the Jetta tho..

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Old 10-17-2015, 05:31 AM   #6
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Sucks about the Jetta, and nice history!

Also that wagon is super clean inside.

17"s are pretty big for these cars and I've never much cared for the look, I feel liek 16" is the biggest reasonable size. But then again this isn't my car so you do you man.

I will say if you plan on going low that you should look in to raising the exhaust. It hangs down pretty low. That, and Volvos don't really "go low" as easy as a lot of other cars.

This a 4-speed with OD car or a true 5 speed?
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Old 10-17-2015, 05:58 AM   #7
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I agree that 16" is he best rim diameter. That said tire availability for 17s is much better; with 16s you are limited (within reason) to pretty much205/55, 225/50, or 245/45 if you are interested in slicks and r-comps.

Here is a good example of an attractive 16" whee package:

http://www.turbobricks.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=297103

Too bad about the Jetta. Mk2s are my favorite Volkswagens. Hopefully you will find your new wagon enjoyable.
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Old 10-17-2015, 06:02 AM   #8
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16" isn't terrible for tire options but you're right that it's not as good as 17.

The 17" options for my car are crazy, even in a relatively low profile (45 series) there are a bunch of options.
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Old 10-17-2015, 06:56 AM   #9
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I like that GTI, good luck with the wagon!
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Old 10-17-2015, 08:04 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by thebornotaku View Post
16" isn't terrible for tire options but you're right that it's not as good as 17.

The 17" options for my car are crazy, even in a relatively low profile (45 series) there are a bunch of options.
I'm just annoyed that Super Sports aren't available in 245/45r16
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Old 10-17-2015, 04:10 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by chris gilmour View Post
ahhhh another mk2 fan i see! I've had quite a few now! I also went the 245 route! you won't regret it. a mk2 is one the best cars I've ever driven but my volvo keeps making me smile too!
id post pics of my volkswagens too but don't wanna clutter your thread
I have already enjoyed driving it. Took it on a little 75 mile cruise today and never even left the county!

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That's a great deal! I hate you now.
Don't hate me... haha Remember, I lost a lot more in that mk2 than I made in this volvo.

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Hey! Welcome! Nice collection there! Shame about the Jetta tho..

Adam
Yeah, I have lost 2 mk2's and a beetle to people not paying attention.

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Originally Posted by thebornotaku View Post
Sucks about the Jetta, and nice history!

Also that wagon is super clean inside.

17"s are pretty big for these cars and I've never much cared for the look, I feel liek 16" is the biggest reasonable size. But then again this isn't my car so you do you man.

I will say if you plan on going low that you should look in to raising the exhaust. It hangs down pretty low. That, and Volvos don't really "go low" as easy as a lot of other cars.

This a 4-speed with OD car or a true 5 speed?
Guessing the 4-speed is the auto? This is a 5 Speed manual car. And yeah, the more I have looked at the wheel wells and the car, the more I am thinking a 15 or 16 will fit better.

And as far as going low easily, you should try slamming a super beetle. Not like your standard bug when it comes to lowering. I don't mind taking my time with this car. Been looking into air ride too.

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Originally Posted by harribert View Post
I agree that 16" is he best rim diameter. That said tire availability for 17s is much better; with 16s you are limited (within reason) to pretty much205/55, 225/50, or 245/45 if you are interested in slicks and r-comps.

Here is a good example of an attractive 16" whee package:

http://www.turbobricks.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=297103

Too bad about the Jetta. Mk2s are my favorite Volkswagens. Hopefully you will find your new wagon enjoyable.
I "ball" on a budget. And those are out of my price range haha. They are very much a beautiful wheel though!

Like I said, this thing is a whole other animal from a VW. But completely enjoyable to drive.

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Originally Posted by thebornotaku View Post
16" isn't terrible for tire options but you're right that it's not as good as 17.

The 17" options for my car are crazy, even in a relatively low profile (45 series) there are a bunch of options.
I need to figure out what width wheels fit these cars with what offsets. I have a set of 16" Porsche wheels I could run with a 25-30mm adapter and I think it would put me close to the proper fitment. Really having a hard time figuring out what I want to do in the wheel department.

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Originally Posted by Coupid View Post
I like that GTI, good luck with the wagon!
Thank you.

Found out that my MK1 VW roof rack will fit this car too. That will make it easier to carry my bikes and paddle boards. Want to look into making a large low profile basket that will retrofit to the Thule racks. Should be fairly simple to design and weld up.



Then I gave a wash and wax. Removed the hub caps due to missing logos, and well, they are hub caps. Washed and cleaned the tires and wheels. And finally a quick vacuum and clean on the inside which led me to a few questions.

1. What drains near the front floor board that could cause water to saturate the drivers floor? A/C Drains?

2. Where is the best place to source a new center console? The piece that goes around the e-brake and houses the seat heater switches.

3. Same from a passenger door pocket... need to find one of those too.

Then off me and my two boys went for a little drive. Filled up, and headed towards the sky dive park. When we got there we found out someone's chute didn't open today and they won't be skydiving for a bit. My son loves watching airplanes.

So off we went into the country to go watch air boats and alligators. Drove her about 75 miles today almost flawlessly. Had a weird moment where while drive slow the car was starting to warm up. Stopped to check the fans and coolant and the temp dropped and never went back up. Kind of strange.

Noticed that there is some play in the shifter when engaging and disengaging the engine. You can feel slop in the engine. Thinking I need to check out the engine and trans mounts.

Also noticed I had a mechanical noise (unusual whine) that varied in relation to the rpm. Sound like it is coming from the engine bay, drivers side. Possible it's the power steering pump. Turning the steering wheel doesn't change the sound, Just RPM's.

Other than that, we had a blast. Definitely needs to be lowered though. I am not used to such a smooth boat like ride haha

Here are some shot we snagged while out playing around. I will take my professional camera out when I think its ready, until then all you get are these iPhone photos








I look forward to doing some learning and tinkering with this car! Any input good or bad, I am open too.
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Old 10-17-2015, 05:07 PM   #12
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Wet driver's floor usually means leaky windshield seal IME. Your windshield is not original to the car as it's got a later style windshield trim/seal.
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Old 10-17-2015, 05:37 PM   #13
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Message philski o'flood on parts, he has just about everything, ever. If no dice, you can ask in the wanted section. Regardless of new motor mounts, these engines moves quite a bit. A few people have come up with creative ways to mount a 3rd engine mount to limit the movement further. There's a vacuum hose that has a vacuum check valve on it that runs through the firewall - controls the vents / recirculate. I just fixed the hose on my wifes car and got a similar, unusual whine. May be related to a bad vacuum check valve, may not. I think it's only audible between 40-50mph and not rpm related for me.

Also, there is a temp faker board inside the instrument cluster. Car basically warms up as normal and will stick at 9 o'clock. You can remove this board and jumper 2 pins and have an accurate reading. I strongly suggest doing this. ~~> http://cleanflametrap.com/tempFaker.html (Ben is also a member of the forum)

A member asked you if the car is a 4 speed/5speed. There are 2 main types of manuals for this time period, m46 (4 speed w/ OD) and m47 (5 speed).
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Old 10-17-2015, 06:01 PM   #14
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What a deal, that interior is pretty mint...especially since its not cloth.

I think 16" wheels allow for the nicest ride height but i think 17" wheels fit the wheel arches a lot better. I have 17" wheels on mine (in my sig) but I'm looking for some 16" wheels to have the best of both worlds haha
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Old 10-17-2015, 06:01 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VeroDubs View Post
Guessing the 4-speed is the auto? This is a 5 Speed manual car. And yeah, the more I have looked at the wheel wells and the car, the more I am thinking a 15 or 16 will fit better
There are two manual transmission options. One is a 4-speed with a pushbutton OD on the top of the shifter. The other is a true 5 speed. They are known as the M46 and M47 respectively.

Neither one of them particularly likes abuse but the M47s are weaker. OTOH you don't have to worry about overdrive issues and there's less electrical complexity which is always a plus. If the car is going to stay stock power then it should be fine. There are some guys running modded cars with M47s but I personally would want to either go with one of the autos (which are a lot more stout) or something like a Tremec.

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Originally Posted by VeroDubs View Post
And as far as going low easily, you should try slamming a super beetle. Not like your standard bug when it comes to lowering. I don't mind taking my time with this car. Been looking into air ride too.
I have a '74 1303 Super Sun Bug kinda like your yellow car. Done a lot of reading too. Not like beams where you re-index it or throw some drop spindles in it.

I'm gonna be working on getting my Super down low but it'll be on air. Anywho that's a discussion for another thread.

Just in my experience once you get down "low" on a Volvo, you're bottoming out the struts. Short struts help but then you've got a lot of stuff hanging below the vehicle. Exhaust is a big one, when my 245 was on bumpstops it really didn't have any major problems except hitting the downpipe on friggin' everything all the time. And then the one time that I got stuck on a speedbump and had to have somebody push me off.



Quote:
Originally Posted by VeroDubs View Post
I need to figure out what width wheels fit these cars with what offsets. I have a set of 16" Porsche wheels I could run with a 25-30mm adapter and I think it would put me close to the proper fitment. Really having a hard time figuring out what I want to do in the wheel department.
Stock ET on 240s is 20 or 25mm IIRC, but there isn't a ton of clearance to the spring seat in the fronts or to the inside of the wheel wells on the rear. Lots of guys that go wide run even lower offsets, sometimes negative. But then you get fender clearance issues if you go too low. I know Porsche wheels are pretty high offset but also probably pretty wide so you may have clearance issues with the inside of them.



Quote:
Originally Posted by VeroDubs View Post
1. What drains near the front floor board that could cause water to saturate the drivers floor? A/C Drains?
Check your heater core for leaks and also make sure your windshield seal is in good shape.


Quote:
Originally Posted by VeroDubs View Post
Noticed that there is some play in the shifter when engaging and disengaging the engine. You can feel slop in the engine. Thinking I need to check out the engine and trans mounts.
Mounts help. Check your bushings too. I bought a set of those cnc bronze bushings and they're the tits. Also put a ratchet strap on your engine on the intake side over to the inner fender. Stock engine mounts on these cars are stupid soft and most aftermarket solutions suck. Unless you can find some Diesel mounts.
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Old 10-18-2015, 12:56 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by amerbritcan View Post
Wet driver's floor usually means leaky windshield seal IME. Your windshield is not original to the car as it's got a later style windshield trim/seal.
I will check out the seal, but it looks fairly new.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon P. View Post
Message philski o'flood on parts, he has just about everything, ever. If no dice, you can ask in the wanted section. Regardless of new motor mounts, these engines moves quite a bit. A few people have come up with creative ways to mount a 3rd engine mount to limit the movement further. There's a vacuum hose that has a vacuum check valve on it that runs through the firewall - controls the vents / recirculate. I just fixed the hose on my wifes car and got a similar, unusual whine. May be related to a bad vacuum check valve, may not. I think it's only audible between 40-50mph and not rpm related for me.

Also, there is a temp faker board inside the instrument cluster. Car basically warms up as normal and will stick at 9 o'clock. You can remove this board and jumper 2 pins and have an accurate reading. I strongly suggest doing this. ~~> http://cleanflametrap.com/tempFaker.html (Ben is also a member of the forum)

A member asked you if the car is a 4 speed/5speed. There are 2 main types of manuals for this time period, m46 (4 speed w/ OD) and m47 (5 speed).
I will send philski a message. As for the whine, it doesn't sound vacuum related to me, more gearish mechanical sounding.

I will check that thread on the temp faker. That's interesting!

And as far as the trans, it's a true 5 speed then.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RasAdam_JAHMEN View Post
What a deal, that interior is pretty mint...especially since its not cloth.

I think 16" wheels allow for the nicest ride height but i think 17" wheels fit the wheel arches a lot better. I have 17" wheels on mine (in my sig) but I'm looking for some 16" wheels to have the best of both worlds haha
The cars I have seen with 17's look good. But I have to look into what's needed to roll the fenders and what to do with the fender liner before I make a final decision.

Quote:
Originally Posted by thebornotaku View Post
There are two manual transmission options. One is a 4-speed with a pushbutton OD on the top of the shifter. The other is a true 5 speed. They are known as the M46 and M47 respectively.

Neither one of them particularly likes abuse but the M47s are weaker. OTOH you don't have to worry about overdrive issues and there's less electrical complexity which is always a plus. If the car is going to stay stock power then it should be fine. There are some guys running modded cars with M47s but I personally would want to either go with one of the autos (which are a lot more stout) or something like a Tremec.
I find it interesting the manuals are weaker than the standards... Completely opposite in VWs. Eventually the car will need a clutch and I was thinking about going +t and upgrading the clutch at the same time. What min of power can the true 5 speed take?

Quote:
I have a '74 1303 Super Sun Bug kinda like your yellow car. Done a lot of reading too. Not like beams where you re-index it or throw some drop spindles in it.

I'm gonna be working on getting my Super down low but it'll be on air. Anywho that's a discussion for another thread.
It you ever have question, I have built several. Currently building a 73 that I want air on. It's getting a Subaru STI swap.

Quote:
Just in my experience once you get down "low" on a Volvo, you're bottoming out the struts. Short struts help but then you've got a lot of stuff hanging below the vehicle. Exhaust is a big one, when my 245 was on bumpstops it really didn't have any major problems except hitting the downpipe on friggin' everything all the time. And then the one time that I got stuck on a speedbump and had to have somebody push me off.
I'm curious about making my own down pipe that tucks up tight. Looking under the car, I can see that will be a problem. As for shocks, I saw people saying to use SAAB 9-3 shocks. I was going to try and get a used set of struts, build a shorter set with ground controls. But the more I look into air ride, the more appealing it is. Still have some learning to do in regards to the panhard bar and torque bars though.

Quote:
Stock ET on 240s is 20 or 25mm IIRC, but there isn't a ton of clearance to the spring seat in the fronts or to the inside of the wheel wells on the rear. Lots of guys that go wide run even lower offsets, sometimes negative. But then you get fender clearance issues if you go too low. I know Porsche wheels are pretty high offset but also probably pretty wide so you may have clearance issues with the inside of them.
The Porsche wheels are 16x7 with a 54 offset. So I could place them anywhere I wanted with adapters.

Quote:
Check your heater core for leaks and also make sure your windshield seal is in good shape.
I will check the heater core and coolant levels. Windshield seal looks perfect.

Quote:
Mounts help. Check your bushings too. I bought a set of those cnc bronze bushings and they're the tits. Also put a ratchet strap on your engine on the intake side over to the inner fender. Stock engine mounts on these cars are stupid soft and most aftermarket solutions suck. Unless you can find some Diesel mounts.
What are the bronze bushings for? Replace rubber motor mounts?

I appreciate the help so far. Looking into IPD panhard and torque bars right now.
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Old 10-18-2015, 01:13 AM   #17
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Bronze shifter bushings.

For motor mounts we really have been handed a ****tt deal. Most after market things albeit stiffer tend to break. Stock mounts also like deform and break. Best bet is finding new stock mounts and strapping the engine. Just search ratchet strap on here. I thought someone was joking when they told me but it really helps
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Old 10-18-2015, 01:44 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by chris gilmour View Post
Bronze shifter bushings.

For motor mounts we really have been handed a ****tt deal. Most after market things albeit stiffer tend to break. Stock mounts also like deform and break. Best bet is finding new stock mounts and strapping the engine. Just search ratchet strap on here. I thought someone was joking when they told me but it really helps
Interesting, I'll check that out. I'm a little weird about the appearance of engine bays, so I will have to find a way to make it look good haha
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Old 10-18-2015, 03:39 AM   #19
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That is all around a sharp looking car, looks new. The bumper and trim are all in great shape. Was it a garage kept car!? Sounds like you are very level headed about your plans for it, great 245 to snatch, up, be good to it and you'll have that Gem forever. Look forward to what you do with it, seems like it can only get better with you!
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Old 10-18-2015, 04:40 AM   #20
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I have been toying with the idea of using 940 hydraulic mounts and brackets, which lay longer, handle much more torque, and last longer.
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Old 10-18-2015, 05:08 AM   #21
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To answer your transmission power output ceiling question, most M46 guys swap to WCT5's around 250whp, I'd assume that the M47 would handle a bit less. 210-220 or so. So a basic +t doesn't even begin to endanger the m47.
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Old 10-18-2015, 08:21 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Old Iron View Post
That is all around a sharp looking car, looks new. The bumper and trim are all in great shape. Was it a garage kept car!? Sounds like you are very level headed about your plans for it, great 245 to snatch, up, be good to it and you'll have that Gem forever. Look forward to what you do with it, seems like it can only get better with you!
It was a garage kept vehicle. The guy drove it 2-3000 miles a year. I bought it with the odometer at exactly 115,000. It has a respray on it so not original paint. And I do see rust in manageable places under the hood around bolts and edges. I have some naval jelly I will use after I get some touch up paint. I am excited to play with a new kind of vehicle.

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Originally Posted by harribert View Post
I have been toying with the idea of using 940 hydraulic mounts and brackets, which lay longer, handle much more torque, and last longer.
Is this a bolt in change or require some fab work?

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Originally Posted by amerbritcan View Post
To answer your transmission power output ceiling question, most M46 guys swap to WCT5's around 250whp, I'd assume that the M47 would handle a bit less. 210-220 or so. So a basic +t doesn't even begin to endanger the m47.
Good to know. I don't need a rocket, I would like it to stay very reliable but able to get out of its own way. I mean it's not painfully slow, it's got some torque to it.

I did go out and detail the engine bay ever so slightly. I have a bit of OCD with engine bay detailing. And I like to hide wires and hoses, so that will happen eventually too.

Here's the before-



And the after-



Wish I had a before of the hood, it was covered in grime!



And here's a video of the whine. I used the stethoscope to try and pinpoint it but I can't. Doesn't sound like the a/c compressor or p/s pump. You can here some lifter tick, but I have heard that on every 8v motor I've ever had. The sound is definitely coming from the front drivers side. Almost sounds like it's below the airborne. Any ideas?

http://s47.photobucket.com/user/gsus...xr3i0.mp4.html
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Old 10-18-2015, 09:36 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by VeroDubs View Post
The cars I have seen with 17's look good. But I have to look into what's needed to roll the fenders and what to do with the fender liner before I make a final decision.
It's possible for sure, ultimately do whatever looks good to you.



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Originally Posted by VeroDubs View Post
I find it interesting the manuals are weaker than the standards... Completely opposite in VWs. Eventually the car will need a clutch and I was thinking about going +t and upgrading the clutch at the same time. What min of power can the true 5 speed take?
It's because the autos in these cars are actually Toyota automatic transmissions. It's an Aisin-Warner which came in these Volvos, as well as Toyota trucks.

As far as power levels, it'll depend. Lots of guys overfill their transmissions to help with it. Some people have had trannies take big power and others have **** out under stock levels. Just don't beat on the transmission and it'll last longer. No slamming gears, roll on to the throttle, etc. The M47 has more gears in the same sized case as the M46 so they're smaller and weaker.



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Originally Posted by VeroDubs View Post
It you ever have question, I have built several. Currently building a 73 that I want air on. It's getting a Subaru STI swap.
I'll have to remember that! As of right now it's still in the garage at my mom's house awaiting us getting the garage cleaned out. It's gonna be a full rebuild so I'm sure I'll have lots to learn and do.



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Originally Posted by VeroDubs View Post
I'm curious about making my own down pipe that tucks up tight. Looking under the car, I can see that will be a problem.
Take the downpipe off, hack out like 2" from the vertical section and re-weld it. That'll help a bunch. But I'm sure others can give you better whole-solution kinda suggestions.

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Originally Posted by VeroDubs View Post
As for shocks, I saw people saying to use SAAB 9-3 shocks. I was going to try and get a used set of struts, build a shorter set with ground controls. But the more I look into air ride, the more appealing it is. Still have some learning to do in regards to the panhard bar and torque bars though.
It does seem to me like there's plenty of room for air components in here but I've never seen it so I don't know.

Regarding the rear suspension:

The rear is a live-axle suspension with control arms on the bottom and torque rods on the top. The axle can pivot between these and it's designed to keep driveline angles in check. You can get adjustable torque rods which allows you to manipulate the angle of the rear axle. The panhard bar keeps the rear axle centered left-to-right and if you lower your car it's gonna push the axle to the left unless you get an adjustable panhard. iPd makes a really really nice adjustable panhard bar.




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Originally Posted by VeroDubs View Post
The Porsche wheels are 16x7 with a 54 offset. So I could place them anywhere I wanted with adapters.
My '87 has 15x7s at ET12. I also ran Volvo Hydra wheels which are 16x6.5(?) at ET20. The wheels on these cars are a little more sunk than a lot of stuff so a little more offset helps. Personally I would run those Porsche wheels probably at ET10 on the front and ET0 in the rear, since the rear axle is narrower than the front.



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Originally Posted by VeroDubs View Post
I will check the heater core and coolant levels. Windshield seal looks perfect.
Looks may be deceiving. Just saying.



Quote:
Originally Posted by VeroDubs View Post
What are the bronze bushings for? Replace rubber motor mounts?
Bronze shifter bushings. They replace the bushings that go around the ball on the shifter as well as the pin in the linkage. Gets rid of a lot of the slop in the shifter. Don't know how they compare to a set of fresh plastic bushings since on my car I replaced the old beat bushings with the bronze ones.


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Originally Posted by amerbritcan View Post
To answer your transmission power output ceiling question, most M46 guys swap to WCT5's around 250whp, I'd assume that the M47 would handle a bit less. 210-220 or so. So a basic +t doesn't even begin to endanger the m47.
^probably a good guideline, but I would be wary of beating on it too hard.
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Old 10-19-2015, 03:57 AM   #24
VeroDubs
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@thebornotaku - Thank you for all the information!

So we found the source of the whining. It is the a/c compressor. It is a pound low, so hoping that may help the noise a bit. Is it common for them to make noise? It's an R12 system converted to an R-134A.

Trying to find some used torque and panhard bars right now to make some adjust bars.
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Old 10-20-2015, 03:17 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by VeroDubs View Post
@thebornotaku - Thank you for all the information!

So we found the source of the whining. It is the a/c compressor. It is a pound low, so hoping that may help the noise a bit. Is it common for them to make noise? It's an R12 system converted to an R-134A.

Trying to find some used torque and panhard bars right now to make some adjust bars.
No idea on the AC.

I like the iPd panhard because it's a thicker diameter and way beefier than stock. Plus it comes a pretty powdercoat blue. Only downside is you have to remove the bar to adjust it, which can be kind of a pain sometimes. Measure, adjust, measure again, adjust again, etc. until you get it right. And remember to support the axle while you do the work otherwise it'll be out of alignment when you drop the car back down.

Torque rods, look for 82+ since those are also thicker diameter versus the earlier ones. That I don't have any particular experience with, I think really it just helps with wheel position F-R in the fender well if you go really low but as far as I understand it, a lot of guys run without adjustable bars. Six years in my wagon and I never had 'em, though I did get a set of torque rods with polyurethane bushings.

Oh, that's another thing: Go poly. It'll squeak like hell if you don't lube them up regularly but going from blown out 1980's rubber bushings to nice modern polyurethane bushings is an insane upgrade in removing so much slop from the suspension.

Other suggestions:

1. Find a 23mm turbo car front sway bar, get the iPd turbo sway bar brackets and bushings (poly!) and run that. It'll help keep the nose a lot more flat during cornering and feel like the car actually "points" where you turn it, rather than wallowing.

2. Strut brace. Another relatively inexpensive and super helpful upgrade. You'll notice most people here are running one, that's for a damn good reason. Helps stiffen up the chassis and has a notable effect on cornering.


On my old wagon I had iPd sport springs that were cut down a little bit more, I had DeCarbon front struts and Bilstein rears, 23mm front sway, Jerd's adjustable upper strut brace, poly sway bar bushings, then in the rear I had good condition used rear trailing arm bushings, poly torque rods and panhard bar. On the iPd springs and DeCarbon/Bilstein setup the car rode pretty well on the highway and driving around, but still handled. I managed to keep up with a pack of 850Rs, S60Rs and V70Rs during a spirited drive out at the coast, mind you this was on n/a power with a ****ty automatic transmission too.
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