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Help me build up a rear end.

R

runslikeapenguin

Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2008
Location
Tacoma WA
I've been reading as much as i can on building up a rear end for my car and man, NONE of the threads are clear about anything. I might need some help here for getting everything together. I'm sure someone can chime in with some answers, or some insults. :-D

**UPDATE**
This ended up being a 1030 axle, all signs were wrong. I really wish there were a good way to identify these things.


Car: 1978 262c
Engine: B21+T, should be in the 300 ftlbs territory.
Trans: T5z, .68 5th. 2.95 1st.
Clutch: JVAB flywheel, KEP 228mm organic disk, Stage 3 pressure plate.

Car will be semi-daily driven. Always on street tires and i don't plan on launching it . . . often.


So for starters, the hardest question to answer is this one.

This is a 1031 right?

Sensor on the diff cover, two ribs, no fins on the bottom, larger no hump housing?

DQevMYo.jpg


lKBmgbU.jpg


crS3txn.jpg


So assuming this is a 1031, i want to put 4.10's in it.

Can i just get any Dana 30 R&P?

like this?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mgr-d30-410f

Also, if i get a truetrac. Is this the one? There are two kinds right, depending on the R&P ratio right?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dtl-912a588

Now for axles . . . this is one i didn't do any searching on.
Is there a need? Are there options for this out there?

Finally the argument territory. This rear end has the 3.7something in it right now (did the spin test) Should i keep it or go 4.10?
 
Last edited:
Yes thats a 1031, as long as it from a 240 (I can't see the suspension attachment points).

You can't use regular dana 30 gears. Here is a set of 4.10s from "for sale"
http://www.forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=317004

You will have to set up the pinion height and carrier with shims. Volvo has special tools and procedures to do this that are different from typical dana 30 setup instructions. Heres a link to the Volvo greenbook, click on "rear axle repairs".
http://www.k-jet.org/documents/greenbooks/200-series/?browse=Section+4+-+Power+Transmission

That 588 truetrac is the right one for rwd applications.

I am in the process of setting one up for my 240 with 4.10s to go with the 2.95 first and 0.63 fifth gear chevy t5. My car currently has 3.73s and the overdrive is usless below 80mph and it takes some clutch slipping to get the car going in first.
 
wennstroma said:
You can't use regular dana 30 gears. Here is a set of 4.10s from "for sale"
http://www.forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=317004
Click to expand...

Ohh, sweet . . . one down.

wennstroma said:
That 588 truetrac is the right one for rwd applications.
Click to expand...

check two.

wennstroma said:
I am in the process of setting one up for my 240 with 4.10s to go with the 2.95 first and 0.63 fifth gear chevy t5. My car currently has 3.73s and the overdrive is useless below 80mph and it takes some clutch slipping to get the car going in first.
Click to expand...


That's also good info, thanks. I was actually playing around with the idea of going lower than 4.10
 
AFAIK Volvo never sold any 1031 equipped cars lower than 4.10. Someone on here that was in contact with dana said all the Volvo size gears have been NLA for decades and the prices were $1k+ for a set before that.

I got pinion and carrier bearings/races from Rockauto. Same Timken parts that the dealer sells, but for much less. Carrier's are LM501314 x2 and LM501349 x2, Pinion's are HM89410 HM89449 M86610 M86647.

If you want to set up some kind of electronic speedo for your older car, I would consider getting the aluminum diff cover from that same "for sale" ad also, the sensor spacing is supposed to work better with the truetrac and the heat dissipation is better too. I paid more than that for the one I pulled from the junkyard last week. There are weld on 12 tooth trigger wheels made to fit the truetrac being sold here.
http://www.forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=317562
 
wennstroma said:
AFAIK Volvo never sold any 1031 equipped cars lower than 4.10. Someone on here that was in contact with dana said all the Volvo size gears have been NLA for decades and the prices were $1k+ for a set before that.

I got pinion and carrier bearings/races from Rockauto. Same Timken parts that the dealer sells, but for much less. Carrier's are LM501314 x2 and LM501349 x2, Pinion's are HM89410 HM89449 M86610 M86647.

If you want to set up some kind of electronic speedo for your older car, I would consider getting the aluminum diff cover from that same "for sale" ad also, the sensor spacing is supposed to work better with the truetrac and the heat dissipation is better too. I paid more than that for the one I pulled from the junkyard last week. There are weld on 12 tooth trigger wheels made to fit the truetrac being sold here.
http://www.forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=317562
Click to expand...

Whoa, thanks man. Those are all the bearings and races? If so, i'm on that.
I'm running a mechanical speedo through the T5.

Does anyone run different axles? Or is that not an issue?
 
runslikeapenguin said:
Doesn't that just tell me the ratio?
Click to expand...

Sometimes yes (This is a 1030 axle):
Axle_Tag_Snotrocket_1030_s.jpg


Sometimes no:
rearaxleident2.jpg


AxleID.gif


culberro said:
For the 1030 only. Cross reference the part numbers and they'll come up as Jeep gear sets for a Dana 30.

OP, I have yet to find a 1030 rearend with a speed sensor. You most likely have a 1031.
Click to expand...

I have a speedo sensor on my 1030. I put it there myself, but the covers are interchangable.

All signs are pointing to 1031, you can pop the cover off, measure the gears, and find out for sure.
 
sim said:
Sometimes yes (This is a 1030 axle):
Axle_Tag_Snotrocket_1030_s.jpg


Sometimes no:
rearaxleident2.jpg


AxleID.gif




I have a speedo sensor on my 1030. I put it there myself, but the covers are interchangable.

All signs are pointing to 1031, you can pop the cover off, measure the gears, and find out for sure.
Click to expand...

Good pics, I'll have to check that real quick.
 
They're pretty random in 940s, but 240s are pretty consistent after 1983 - 3.31 for manuals, 3.73 for autos. I've seen speed sensored late 1030s - I did a manual swap in a friend's auto '88, and it had a pretty visible tag that said "1030" and had a build date that made sense for an '88.
 
The 1031 ring & pinion was introduced with the 164 to handle the additional power and torque. It was subsequently used in 260's and turbo 240's.

The parts catalog shows 1030 diffs in 240's all the way 'till '93, so the presence of a speed sensor on the cover doesn't guarantee that it's a 1031.

Absent a sticker that say's what it is, the part number can be used to determine whether it's a 1030 or 1031.
 
hiperfauto said:
The 1031 ring & pinion was introduced with the 164 to handle the additional power and torque. It was subsequently used in 260's and turbo 240's.

The parts catalog shows 1030 diffs in 240's all the way 'till '93, so the presence of a speed sensor on the cover doesn't guarantee that it's a 1031.

Absent a sticker that say's what it is, the part number can be used to determine whether it's a 1030 or 1031.
Click to expand...

there isn't a sticker on it. i got the cover off and it has a 3.73:1, i'll pull the ring part number in a bit.
 
OK, I think I am slowly getting a handle on Volvo rear ends! Sellholm in Sweden, the rally people, claim as far as 240 / 740 and 940 rear axle CASINGS go they have never seen the two rib casting to be any better , strength wise, CWP wear wise, or any other wise, than the single rib, even in big engine off road rally cars. They mentioned crown wheel and pinion size though, and I believe they said that very early 240 series may have a smaller crown wheel diameter than later cars. I believe they also said that all 740 / 940 models would, axle changes aside, have the larger crown wheel diameter and matching pinion. They may be in either a single rib or twin rib centre housing. They said so long as I found an axle casing that took the larger CWP I would be fine, as I am fitting their custom LSD in one of their new CWP's, (unless I drop on a good 3.31 ratio, used CWP), and they only needs to fit the axle casing

Do we all concur on this? That any 740 or 940, turbo or N/A will have the larger diameter, and presumably stronger, crown wheel? And that the single or twin rib centre housing casting seems to be pretty random as to what it was used on?

Thanks!
 
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