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Old 12-29-2016, 05:03 PM   #1
noz-e8tr
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Default Berserker 242

I've had a few people ask for a build thread. So I figured I'd start something here. It started a while back when a TB member posted a for sale thread listing his 83 242 V8 for $5,500. I just so happen to have a 2003 BMW 540i M-Sport for sale valued around that same price. I threw out the idea of a straight up trade and he was in. Many thought I was crazy. My 540 was nice. But it was high miles and just not "Me". There were some logistics involved. He was in Maine and I was in South Texas. So a road trip was in store. We met in Atlanta Ga, with the understanding that either of us could back out for any reason and we would simply drive our cars home with no hard feelings.

CHAPTER 1 AKA Berserker v0.0

After the first initial contact with Ben we started exchanging pictures and details of our cars. My 2003 BMW 540i M-Sport and his 1983 242 5.0. I really liked what I saw and apparently so did he. Here are some of the pictures that exchanged hands and a couple videos. Yes, I had many friends tell me I was crazy. But I had a vision of what I wanted to do and this 242 fit quite well in that vision.

We were very honest in how we represented both vehicles. Neither of us wanted surprises.
242





















The BMW.






After making my decision to go through with the trade I met Ben in Atlanta Ga and we made the trade. The drive home in the Volvo defiantly wasn't as comfortable as the ride there in the BMW. But I was still happy with the trade. This concludes the v0.0 section.

The Trade!!!!


Once I got the 242 home my fist step was to set it up to run some auto cross events. This is detailed below in Berserker v1.0

Chapter 2 AKA Berserker v1.0

The goal of v1.0 was simply to get out on the autocross course as quickly as possible. This involved a bunch of parts from Ben and the Nitto NT01 I had been running on my 740 autocross car. I also added a racing seat and put on new front calipers with Hawk racing pads to help stop this beast. I ran into an issue with the front sway bar so I ended up running my first auto cross with a 25mm rear bar and no front bar at all. Here is a list of mods at the v1.0 stage.

Parts from Kaplhenke Racing LLC (AKA Ben)
Coilovers with 500/300 sprints
Koni adjustable race shocks/struts
steering correct
camber plates
Upper tower brace (the bad ass one)
Seat mounts

Ipd Parts
Full poly bushings
adjustable rear upper links
adjustable panhard bar

My results at auto cross was OK. But the sway set up sucked. Made a fun drift car though. Here is how the car sat at v1.0 and a few in-progress shots as well as some autocross action.

Bens awesome brace


More of Ben's goodies


Checking ride height


Nitto NT01...Slightly used


On the course

That's my serious game face


Where is all happens. lol




My next autocross there were very few changes, so I'm calling it still v1.0. All I did was sort the issue with my front sway bar and add the ever so lovely Group A wing. This event was held at a different location and allowed for a much more open (fast) course. I found a couple limits of the car during this event. Limit 1 was the tires. The Nitto NT01 225/45/17 tires struggled to keep traction. I def had more power than they could handle. The other limit I found was the brakes. Slowing down a 3,000lb car with stock brakes is a chore. I will say that the Hawk pads never once faded. They kept grabbing right up until I set the brakes on fire. Yep. My brand new calipers caught fire. I had the rotor a nice pretty blue color and the rubber seals on the pistons on fire. Here are a couple pictures from that event.

Pretty wing...


The course was long and narrow. Very fast,




Baked Brakes (more like fried)



Some GoPro action


After this event it was evident that I needed to address a few things. This brings us to v2.0. Brakes and tires.

CHAPTER 3 BERSERKER v2.0
Brakes and tires brakes and tires brakes and tire. If you haven't figured it out yet, v2.0 is all about brakes and tires. On the previous autocross, I seriously baked my brakes so it was time to upgrade to some s60r calipers and rotors. That's a pretty straight forward process and well documented so other than a few pictures I'm not gonna go into great details. I picked up front calipers off ebay for around $300, so it wasn't too bad of an upgrade.

BRAKES
Here is a comparison between the stock and s60r rotors. Easy to see why this is an upgrade.


Caliper comparison


And what it looks like installed


Tires and wheels were a little bit more work. I wanted big. 295/30/18 r-compound Toyo r888 is what I wanted to run. So how do you make them fit? The truth is you can't. You have to make the car fit them. That means breaking out the saws-all, cutters, hammers, bigger hammers, grinder and welder. I seriously cut a lot of metal to get the car dropped as much as I could. The process is not hard, but you have to take your time and cut a little at a time. Its real easy to decide you want to cut a bit more compared to the realization that you cut too much. I cut just enough to where I could drop the car to ride height without the cut metal touching the tires. From there, I positioned my flares where it worked and looked best. Taped them in place and marked the outside edge. Removed the flares and cut 1" to the inside of that mark. This gives me a one inch flange for flare mounting. I was careful to only cut through the outside skin. This allows the inside skin to be notched and eventually bent up so it can be welded and trimmed to the outside skin. This video show a little of the process. The boring repeated hammering part.



This was my first mockup just to get inspired. I liked the way it looked even at full droop. The final placement put the flare up against the body molding.




Final placement compared to mockup


I'm not going into any real detail on the front. Its pretty much straight forward. Finder liner was removed already, so it really a matter on positioning the flare, marking and cutting. Its single layered, so no drama. I will say that with 295 tires you really have to cut a lot for the tire to have room to turn. Remember, this is not a "stance" build, I actually have to turn. I will say I'm not real pleased having the flare trying to conform to the hump where the body molding was. I was more interested in function that form. I will re-visit that later and come up with a better solution.

One thing I did do was limit the steering. With these tires and Bens geometry correction/quickening parts I could easily damage my tires against the frame. These solved that issue. (from Grainger)


v2.0 on the course.. First time out and I destroyed all my previous best times. This thing stuck. I was very impressed with the tires.




Here is an interesting comparison of how the tires and wheels changed its attitude.




And I had a Facebook friend do this for me


A video from the last autocross



Berserker v3.0 In progress
Power.....more power. Time for some go fast parts. Details coming soon, but here is a small parts list,
Twisted flow heads
Twisted flow pistons
head studs
Forged rods
custom ground roller cam
roller rocker
fully balanced
gt40 intake
65mm throttle body
coyote injectors
Lightening MAF






Dropping the beautiful 5.0 back in.






Had to modify the solid mounts a bit and I replaced the washers that have been used previously with proper spacers. Just needed a little tweaking to clear the Canton 7 qt road race oil pan.


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Berserker 242 Build Thread

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Old 12-29-2016, 07:11 PM   #2
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DEFINITELY interested in seeing more of your build revealed! From one autocross hound to another, I LOVE your car!

-Ben
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Old 12-29-2016, 08:22 PM   #3
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TELL ME MORE .....
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Old 12-31-2016, 04:09 PM   #4
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that last pic



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Old 12-31-2016, 05:41 PM   #5
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Bam, there it is; the coolest car on TB, and from the looks of it, it runs!
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Old 12-31-2016, 06:02 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by megulon-7 View Post
Bam, there it is; the coolest car on TB, and from the looks of it, it runs!
it does run and it doesn't have a redblock or LS motor..
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Old 12-31-2016, 06:51 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by megulon-7 View Post
Bam, there it is; the coolest car on TB, and from the looks of it, it runs!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BCPUIElJUZc
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Old 01-10-2017, 02:16 PM   #8
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Chapter 1 Updated. lol
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Old 01-26-2017, 03:10 PM   #9
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Chapter 2 updated
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Old 04-06-2017, 06:18 PM   #10
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Bump...For updates.
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Old 04-17-2017, 02:12 PM   #11
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Made a little progress on Berserkers new engine. Bottom end all assembled and balance, head studs installed, heads mounted up. lifters and pushrods installed. New roller rockers installed and preload set. Lower intake with coyote injectors installed. If all goes well, it should be going back in this weekend.









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Old 04-17-2017, 03:16 PM   #12
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But.... You could'a had an LS!,(in before the peanut gallery) Looks awesome, and fun.
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Old 04-17-2017, 04:36 PM   #13
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Its true though Dan, for the price I could have. But I'm a bit of a Ford fan. If I was going to do a modern swap, It would probably be the coyote 5.0.

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But.... You could'a had an LS!,(in before the peanut gallery) Looks awesome, and fun.
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Old 04-17-2017, 05:30 PM   #14
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Its true though Dan, for the price I could have. But I'm a bit of a Ford fan. If I was going to do a modern swap, It would probably be the coyote 5.0.
Ford used to own Volvo ...GM used to own Saab :(
It looks great even if I´m a chevy in a volvo fan ...keep that rad ride coming!
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Old 05-01-2017, 03:55 PM   #15
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Default Canton 7qt baffled Roadrace Oil pan fitment.

Canton 7qt baffled Roadrace Oil pan fitment. Like a glove.

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Old 05-01-2017, 07:20 PM   #16
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Good to know the Canton oil pan cleared. I'm thinking of getting one as well. Does that one use the Canton pickup tube?
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Old 05-01-2017, 09:38 PM   #17
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Did you have the lower on the intake ported? It will present quite a bottleneck compared to your heads unless it's opened up. Fellow named Tom Moss in St. Louis can do that for your. On www.corral.net he's "tmoss". Oh - and that 65mm throttle body is liable to hold it back as well.

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Old 05-02-2017, 12:37 PM   #18
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Yes. The kit comes with fully baffled T-Sump, pickup tube, dipstick and one piece gasket.

https://lmr.com/item/CAN-15644K/1979...ce-Oil-Pan-Kit

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Good to know the Canton oil pan cleared. I'm thinking of getting one as well. Does that one use the Canton pickup tube?
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Old 05-02-2017, 12:54 PM   #19
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The GT40 intake will easily flow the numbers I'm shooting for. Remember, I'm not looking for peak HP. If I was, I would have a different cam, different intake and 90mm throttle body. I'm much more interested in a wide power band with emphasis on lower to mid range power. While the 90mm TB will flow more, I would lose throttle control. The big 90mm functions virtually like an on/off switch making it harder to fineness on the edge with throttle control. I'm building this with autocross in mind, so it's a little different mind set than 1/4 mile or dyno cars. But you are absolutely correct, a ported or different intake and larger TB would produce higher peak HP numbers.

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Did you have the lower on the intake ported? It will present quite a bottleneck compared to your heads unless it's opened up. Fellow named Tom Moss in St. Louis can do that for your. On www.corral.net he's "tmoss". Oh - and that 65mm throttle body is liable to hold it back as well.
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Old 05-02-2017, 01:12 PM   #20
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I wasn't thinking of peak HP numbers either - I'm aware of your application. I've got a fair amount of time in with these motors. Bottom and midrange can also benefit from a proper opening up the lower. Not sure where a 90mm throttle body suggestion arose - I'd go 75mm; modulation won't be a problem. But - sounds like you have a plan, so good luck with first start and run-in! Your changes will make a big difference. The (similar) AFR165 heads really woke mine up.
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Old 05-02-2017, 01:42 PM   #21
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You are correct, you didn't mention 90mm. My tuner is always pushing the whole "bigger is better" thing every time I go in. He's all about peak HP. I do have plans next year to fit a single turbo with around 5-7psi boost. I'll address the intake and TB at that time. Didn't want to do it twice. I think 325-350hp is a conservative estimate and will be a big jump up from the stock 214hp. I'll have to learn to drive it all over. lol I do appreciate the feedback BTW. I have my set plan, but I'm always open to suggestions.

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I wasn't thinking of peak HP numbers either - I'm aware of your application. I've got a fair amount of time in with these motors. Bottom and midrange can also benefit from a proper opening up the lower. Not sure where a 90mm throttle body suggestion arose - I'd go 75mm; modulation won't be a problem. But - sounds like you have a plan, so good luck with first start and run-in! Your changes will make a big difference. The (similar) AFR165 heads really woke mine up.
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Old 06-21-2017, 11:57 AM   #22
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Progress is slow but it will be worth it. Back seat was removed and there will be a divided and insulated diamond plate enclosure, one side for the turbo and exhaust and the other side for cold air intake. The box will be insulated and vented out the floor in an attempt to reduce cabin temps. There will be some sort of intake/scoop on the drivers side in about the same location as the exhaust exit on the passenger side, to bring in fresh air to the filter box.(inside the diamond plate enclosure.) . Exhaust is all stainless with shorty headers into 2.25" then to a Y exiting a single 3" to the turbo. MAF will be pre turbo and the BOV will be recirculating back into the air intake After MAF and before turbo to prevent over rich situation when I go off throttle while in boost... The engine is 10.1:1 CR so I will be running fairly low boost (4.5-7psi). There will be no intercooler but will have a water/meth injection system 12" upstream of the throttle body and IAT sensor. Yes I know remote turbos are not as efficient, however, with my build, a tad bit of lag will work in my favor. Is it different? yes.. Is it crazy? of course...Its Berserker.

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Old 06-21-2017, 04:57 PM   #23
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What oil scavenging system are you going to do?
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Old 06-22-2017, 04:33 PM   #24
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The turbo gravity drains into a small vented tank using -10 line. From there a TurboWerx scavenger pump pumps the oil through -6 line back to the valve cover. The vented tank should prevent the scavenge pump from pulling a suction on the turbo. I think this is the best setup as turbos are designed to gravity drain.

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What oil scavenging system are you going to do?

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Old 06-22-2017, 04:49 PM   #25
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I like it. I can't wait to see some videos of it on the course, its gonna be an animal.
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