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Old 11-19-2019, 02:04 AM   #1
MasterBlaster
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Default Is 27 psi fuel pressure enough?

No, I didn't think so either.

Several months of mysterious hard starting; sometimes 20+ cranks before it finally sputtered to life, but then idled and ran fine. Also restarted fine once warmed up a bit, or even just after running for a minute.

Lately (a month?) while driving, big hesitation / bog off the line until it reached about 1800 RPM, where I assume the "cruise" fuel map kicks in. More pedal just made it bog more and pop back throught the intake, unless I feathered it until it reached that magic speed, but the folks behind me tended to get a little impatient. Usually a minor "brake stand" at the light helped, especially if starting uphill. Got the RPMs up a little quicker. Once cruise RPM was reached, it pulled like normal, even at highway speeds, as if nothing was wrong.

BossMan at the shop remembered he had the special Volvo adapter for LH fuel lines (also works for Regina, YAY!), number 71305 http://www.langtools.com/sku-71305-v...mm-lh-jetronic.




That way, I didn't have to buy my own, and made it easy to check fuel pressure. 27 psi with relay jumped, no change playing with regulator or pinching return line. Got it up over 30 by repeatedly on/off pulsing the pump.

Popped in a new fuel pump + strainer on Saturday after work. Took about 2 hours, most of which was trying to figure out how to get to the pump without breaking my back. Huge trunk, but not if you're a normal-sized human trying to fit in there AND work (shoulda got a wagon). Luckily nothing broke (fuel fittings or vertebrae).

No pics, but pretty much the same procedure as on Cleanflametrap's page (THANKS!) , except I managed to just bend my filler hose out of the way, my output is a banjo instead of a quick-connect, the return pipe is curved, and there's an extra port below the filler neck that's capped off. I didn't even need to rewire or solder; the new pump plugged right in (might have been done before?).




No more bog, starts right up like it used to: 1-2-3-4-5-6-vroom. Happy happy!!


Maybe next I should get on that "no Overdrive until it's hot" problem?
Nah, it's only been a year or so.
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Last edited by MasterBlaster; 09-16-2020 at 02:09 AM..
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Old 11-19-2019, 10:03 AM   #2
cleanflametrap
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What a great tip, showing that Lang kit. How I searched for exactly those M14 fittings 20 years ago before giving up and making an adapter from a junkyard fuel rail. Spent good chunks of Saturdays pawing through fittings at the local auto parts places before finding fellow Volvo owners on the Internet.

By the way, what car is this? A 7 or 9 fueled by Regina I guess?

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Originally Posted by MasterBlaster View Post
...
Maybe next I should get on that "no Overdrive until it's hot" problem?
Nah, it's only been a year or so.
Had this symptom many years ago. I was eager to pinpoint the cause of the temperature factor. Once it was clear to me the OD solenoid was not drawing current when it was cold, I figured I'd find the winding broken at one end or the other. TL;DR replaced solenoid valve.




Quote:
I pulled as much wire out as I could before breaking it. Still no clue where the break is, and time to give up.
(From http://cleanflametrap.com/pub_autoOD/ )
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Old 11-19-2019, 10:19 AM   #3
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it's a 7/9, and sounds like a rex car. OP does know that there's just 2 more 10mm bolts on the access cover, right? hopefully you didn't bend that thing up.
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Old 11-19-2019, 10:23 AM   #4
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I’m gonna guess a Regina single pump car since he only changed the one in the tank and it solved his issues. Great write up, and those adapters look awesome.
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Old 11-19-2019, 02:59 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by linuxman51 View Post
it's a 7/9, and sounds like a rex car. OP does know that there's just 2 more 10mm bolts on the access cover, right? hopefully you didn't bend that thing up.
OP's image comes from my adventure a decade and a half ago, and yes, even I knew there were two more screws I would have loved to get access to, and that was the caption to the photo. After all, this car belonged to my late mother in law.
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Old 11-20-2019, 02:00 AM   #6
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Quote:
the new pump plugged right in (might have been done before?).
Yep. Airtex number E3210 stamped on the old pump. And the plug was joined to the original wires.

Quote:
A 7 or 9 fueled by Regina I guess?
Yep again, the 1990 740 Regina in my sig.

Quote:
hopefully you didn't bend that thing up.
No plastic in the way, just folded and took out the 1-piece trunk liner and there it was. No bending required.

Quote:
What a great tip, showing that Lang kit.
"Volvo 71305" into Google = several companies selling some version of it.
One of those plus Google "5/16 brass tee" to build the assembly.
Use the 3rd leg to adapt to your particular gauge.

Quote:
the OD solenoid was not drawing current when it was cold,
Mine happily goes click-clack along with the shifter button, also when bypassing the relay with a big jumper. I'm thinking either a small piece of something in the solenoid or a passage acting as a "just enough" blockage, or something more ominous in the valve body. The plan is to eventually take the damn solenoid off and verify and/or clean the thing. Or just stay off the freeway until it kicks in.

Last edited by MasterBlaster; 11-20-2019 at 02:14 AM..
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Old 12-29-2019, 05:23 PM   #7
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Annnnd.. the pump comes out again.

It seems that after 30 years or so, the little plastic "tooth" in the pump's retainer cup can get weak, and not securely grab the slot at the end of the clamping "strap" that holds the whole mess together. If this lets go, the strap can slide upwards, taking the outlet pipe with it, and since the pipe is just a 1/2 inch slip-fit into the pulsation damper (Regina system), this can separate enough to let the fuel dump back into the tank, instead of continuing up the lines to the injectors. This will result in an instant loss of all power, and leave you on the side of the road on the way to finish your Xmas shopping.

If you're lucky, your boss will have a spare car you can drive until you get a chance to figure out the problem. If you're doubly lucky, your version of AAA will waive the "extra distance" towing fee back to the shop because you haven't called them in years.

Took the pump assembly out, tried to snap it back together, but any wiggling would make it come apart again. Finally make a small zip-tie loop around the upper metal pipe, another around the filter sock's mounting snoot, and a loooooong loop to join those two loops. Snugged them all down enough to keep the assembly firmly held together, put the pump back in, fired it up, and we're running again!

It was a long week of FWD Ford Probe, even with a V6 and a clutch.

Picture stolen borrowed from cleanflametrap's site, then badly animated:


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Old 12-29-2019, 06:31 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterBlaster View Post
Picture stolen borrowed from cleanflametrap's site, then badly animated:
Damn, that's not "badly" animated, that's impressive! Sorry you had to go back in there.

Another year of cussing broken, brittle plastic, and rubber turned to mush, maybe even worse than rust. Hope your zip ties survive the ethanol for a while.
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