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Old 09-26-2003, 02:59 AM   #1
Led
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Here is the plan I've put together. I'm going to send in my stock TD04H-13C to mjmturbos.com. They are going to rebuild the unit with a new 15G center cartridge for $495.

For the money I will have a rebuilt turbo with a larger compressor. Does this make sence?

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Old 09-26-2003, 03:02 AM   #2
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www.pbase.com/twig/15g

'Nuff said :wink:
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Old 09-26-2003, 03:11 AM   #3
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***Danger Will Robinson Danger***

The price is pretty reasonable. However for the money I would consider this:

If you put a TD05HL-15G cartridge in a properly machined 13C turbine and compressor housing you will still have a turbo optimized for turbocharged lawnmowers.

The 13C comes with a 6cm2 housing, this is the area at the smallest point in the neckdown of the turbine inlet. They are already extremely restrictive which mated to a 13C wheel, a problem that will be increased by a higher flowing 15G wheel. In other words, you'll be adding intake pressure without relieving exhaust manifold pressure, thereby skyrocketing your EGTs. A 15G comes standard with a 7cm2 housing!

Have you ever seen the turbine housing on your 13C glow? It isn't necessarily overspeeding the turbo that is causing this, it is the instantaneous spool and marked loss to zero top end you're feeling now. I sincerely believe a stock 13C car would benefit hugely from a serious port job, but you need a good starting point.

I'm not TELLING you to buy a turbo from me, but I'm suggesting you do a true 15G and not some hybrid cobbled up BS that's going to cost you more money in the long run, since you'll be replacing it or exhaust valves when you really push the envelope.

PM me, post here, or call me 336-509-8589...I am more than willing to answer any of your questions.
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Old 09-26-2003, 03:21 AM   #4
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I see where your coming from. Are the turbo's you sell rebuilt? I don't want to do an upgrade and not get a fresh turbo out of the deal?

Honestly I have just enough knowledge about turbo's to be dangerous. I just want a 15 or 16G upgrade that will drop into the car.

And yes, my turbo glows all the time!!!

Thanks,
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Old 09-26-2003, 03:25 AM   #5
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The whole reason I was thinking about a TD04H-13C to 15G upgrade is that I've seen reference's to TD04 housings with 15G wheels installed. mjmturbos sells a turbo for a Mitsu VR4 thats got a 15G wheel and is based in a TD04 housing.

Later,
Led
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Old 09-26-2003, 03:31 AM   #6
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Rebuilt isn't an issue if that's what you want, but I warranty all my turbos when I sell them, warranty depending on mileage.

Of course if you want to do a brand spankin new turbo I've got a killer Big16G/ 3" Downpipe and O2 Housing /Installation kit I'm working on for less than $1000

Or you can get a converted 19T brand new for about $1100 including 3" downpipe

Or you can get a rebuilt, full 15G, fully mod'd for around $700
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Old 09-26-2003, 02:19 PM   #7
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Or you could by a T4/T3 hybrid of flebay for the same price.

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Old 09-26-2003, 03:08 PM   #8
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I think the whole idea is that he wants something that will fully bolt on, a T3/T4 won't satisfy that requirement; seeing as how he has a 13C on his car, the oil/water lines won't match up, neither will his downpipe. However that is a very viable choice, and would make for an entertaining ride.
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Old 09-26-2003, 05:08 PM   #9
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I know the 90+ manafold has a lump in it and would need grinding flat, whats the problem with the oil/water lines?? got any comparison pics?

Griz
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Old 09-26-2003, 05:22 PM   #10
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Are you trying to argue with him???
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Old 09-26-2003, 06:02 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twiggilicious
Are you trying to argue with him???
Nope, just asking thats all. One day when money alows, I will be ripping that small 13C out and looking for something else (and yes fuel system, head and suspention mods will be first) just wanting some info on options, whats the 15G and 19T good for, the T4/T3's are a lot cheaper if they can be made to fit.

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Old 09-27-2003, 05:17 AM   #12
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The oil/water lines are different, no pics, sorry.

Keep in mind T3/T4 is such a general term, that's like saying TD05... in the grand scheme of things it means nothing about actual performance. There are sooo many flavors of T3/T4 that I couldn't even begin to list them, from 200hp to 1000hp I'm sure.

Buzzword Alert!

However, yes a T3 flanged turbo will mate up and seal to the collector on the 90+ manifold with modification. T3/T4 also necessitates CBV/BOV installation, due to the lack of the integral one. I will try one out someday, but not today
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Old 09-27-2003, 04:55 PM   #13
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1)yes, a hybrid will bolt up to either of the mitsu manifolds with minimal modification.

2)the integrated cbvs and such become unreliable, undersized, leaky bitches at the kind of boost pressures one would be running to even necessitate an upgrade to begin with anyways.

3)With respect to oil lines, you can just get some stock oil lines from a 240t from a wrecker for next to nothing. It's just a T3 center cartridge afterall.

Turbobrick 940 has a great service for people wanting a bolt-on upgrade and a lot of people are faster for it, we get along way better than we used to and I respect him, so this is no disrespect on him, just trying to keep things a little balanced.

My only experience personally is that my 60trim T3 was a far nicer turbo than my 12b. TD04 is probably a different animal though...
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Old 09-27-2003, 07:04 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainBondo
the integrated cbvs and such become unreliable, undersized, leaky bitches at the kind of boost pressures one would be running to even necessitate an upgrade to begin with anyways.
The 15Gs CBV has proven to be pretty useful in the grand scheme of things, with preloading of the CBV spring. However for maximum effort, it is absolutely inadequate.

[quote:1ed5890251]just trying to keep things a little balanced. [/quote:1ed5890251]
I expect nothing less from you Kenny, glad to have you back!

[quote:1ed5890251]My only experience personally is that my 60trim T3 was a far nicer turbo than my 12b. TD04 is probably a different animal though...[/quote:1ed5890251]
Robin had a 12B car, a 13C car, and now a 15G car... Performance was also in that order, respectively. I AM NOT HATING on T3/T4s... I will have one, someday, I'm sure.
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Old 09-30-2003, 03:48 PM   #15
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I've been doing some more reading and I understand what you were talking about. If I use a 15G wheel in my stock 13C the 6cm2 exhaust housing won't flow enough. In other words the turbo would be in danger of surging.

I noticed your 15G you have for sale in your sig line is a TD04HL with a 15G wheel. What is the size of the turbine housing on this unit. Was it origionally 6cm2? Did you have it ported?

Is there a turbine housing that will bolt up to a Volvo manifold that's large enough in stock form to support a 15G or 16G wheel?

DATA, I NEED DATA!!! :-)

Thanks,
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Old 10-01-2003, 05:44 AM   #16
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TD04HL-15G-7 is the code on the turbo, for 7cm2 turbine housing...it is also heavily ported, as I encourage most of my customers to go for.
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Old 10-01-2003, 06:40 AM   #17
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Eric, when you port the 6cm does it come close to the 7cm, or?

I ask because, as you know I am going with a BIG mitsu compressor on one of my projects and would hate to choke it on the turbine side.
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Old 11-11-2010, 07:11 AM   #18
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need info on TDO4-15G from 850 T5 to fit in my B230FT 740 turbo with TDO4-13C...what mods are require to fit this 15G to stock B230FT manifold?is it any pictures showing this modification to fit in b230ft manifold? my 13C already leaking...oil surrounded the compressor and also CBV...need to change the 13c and my option is 15G...really need help from this forum members
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Old 11-12-2010, 05:59 PM   #19
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Hi
I am looking into this for quite some time and came to the same conclusions like turbobrick 940.
Turbo housings with the conical end are extremely hard to get -- I eventually found this place:
http://www.turbomeck.se/turbinhus-volvo-850
Not cheap, but a good starting point.
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Old 11-12-2010, 10:42 PM   #20
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need info on TDO4-15G from 850 T5 to fit in my B230FT 740 turbo with TDO4-13C...what mods are require to fit this 15G to stock B230FT manifold?is it any pictures showing this modification to fit in b230ft manifold? my 13C already leaking...oil surrounded the compressor and also CBV...need to change the 13c and my option is 15G...really need help from this forum members
There's a lot of articles on it, Very Very common swap. Way to bring it back from the dead So far I've read that you have to make the wastegate bracket from an ac comp bracket. But you just gotta search around.
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Old 11-12-2010, 11:46 PM   #21
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See if this helps

90+ and td04 turbo makes it easy other wise you need a 90+ manifold, and the right oil lines for your turbo (they are different between the -89 and 90+ manifolds). The flat is on the later cars and flows much much better, conical is on the older. Conical is what your DP is now so the advantage is it will hook right up (or should) but it's really restrictive.

To install you need to remove the pin, to get it out remove the compressor housing (it's held on with a giant snap ring, c clip what ever you want to call it). Grind or cut or some how remove the pin that keeps the housing from being rotated. Clean the groove where the ring fits really well, usually they are kinda a pain to get out. Put the compressor housing back on. Clock it so that when you put the center housing back on with compressor housing that the oil feed and the compressor outlet both point "up" (your oil feed is in the same place as before, on the top of the turbo). This doesn't have to be perfect, just close, i'll tell you how to adjust it later. Pull your old turbo off the car, leave the manifold and lines in place on there, I would port the manifold outlet some while i was in there but that's optional.


Once the old turbo is off undo the vband which holds the hot side to the centerhousing on your 15g. put the exhaust housing onto the manifold bolt it down (it's a bit of a pain but not too bad) use new nuts (should look like this when you're done http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs519...._4288609_n.jpg). Now I don't remember if you put the drain line one before or after you put the turbo together you'll have to figure it out but slide the turbo together being careful of the exhaust wheel. If you have a 90+ you CAN use all of your old lines(might not be true for a 12b), they should more or less line up so align the center housing with them (they might require a slight amount of bending but not much) and get it as far in the exhaust side as you can (you won't be able to get it in all the way by hand probably) then put the v band back on and tighten down all the way. Once you get that in, attach any lines you need to. If you need to tweak the rotation of the compressor housing, with the vband tight, it's easy to do on the car. Put a piece of something long and semi sturdy (broom stick, pipe something) and turn. http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._8329245_n.jpg

The bracket, if you use a T3 actuator your steps will vary, for a 13c actuator (the 15g one won't work, throw it away lol) make a bracket from an ac bracket that looks like this http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._5637485_n.jpg we had to drill a new hole and it but it bolts into one of the holes the stock actuator went into. We tacked orie's to the bracket for good measure. It might be easier to set this up off the car but I did mine on the car because the turbo wasn't 100% clocked. Either way it's not too hard.

That what you need to know?
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Old 11-12-2010, 11:52 PM   #22
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wow for 20 dollars more you can get a 19 t wheels put in
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Old 11-13-2010, 12:06 AM   #23
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Holset :P

Someone had to say it.
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Old 11-25-2010, 03:24 PM   #24
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Hi
>>If you need to tweak the rotation of the compressor housing, with the vband tight, it's easy to do on the car. Put a piece of something long and semi sturdy (broom stick, pipe something) and turn. http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._8329245_n.jpg<<
this may not be such a good idea, as there is a little pin in the compressor housing keeping the core in place. but it can be easily removed after the big circular clip is taken off and the core and housing is separated.
regards, Hans
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Old 11-25-2010, 05:36 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HansW View Post
this may not be such a good idea, as there is a little pin in the compressor housing keeping the core in place. but it can be easily removed after the big circular clip is taken off and the core and housing is separated.
regards, Hans
If you read his post, that was the first thing he said to remove..

"To install you need to remove the pin, to get it out remove the compressor housing (it's held on with a giant snap ring, c clip what ever you want to call it). Grind or cut or some how remove the pin that keeps the housing from being rotated."
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