The 15G is in, lots of pics!

[Dr Dokeh]

After battling a few minor problems with the install, including wrestling with the downpipe studs, and tracing down mysterious oil leaks, it's all working great!

Let's start with some history, it's a TD04HL-15G from a 1995 850 T-5 with 104k on the clock, spins freely with very minimal play, got it off ebay for a very good price.



I'm sure it's been documented on how to clock these things many times before, but for a quick recap you have to rotate both housings if you want it to all line up with the 13c's oil and water lines.

After taking it apart (a socket set and a hammer come in handy) this is what needs to be dealt with



The first locating pin, you can either cut this off or pull it out.

WARNING! ACHTUNG! Don't hit it with a hammer, I did and it made the mating surface not quite so round

Next bit to come off is the compressor housing, this is held on to the centre cartridge with a giant clip.

Forget everything you've heard about these things, it's not easy, it's an absolute frickin bastard. You will swear. Lots. Your neighbours will think you've been posessed and will be calling an exorcist. "MITSUBISHI HEAVY INDUSTRIES SUCK COCKS IN HELL" I screamed as the pliers slipped off for the hundredth time.

Anyway... . After you get over that slight inconvenience, you see another locating pin, and again you can cut it off or pull it out.



Once that's done, you can either put it all back together and have some fun, or start some porting work so you can have even more fun!

For porting I used a big corded bosch drill and some carbide burrs, going slow and steady, porting the exhaust housing took me about 3 hours, plus another hour or so the next day when i decided to open up the wastegate hole some more.



All finished . The studs also have to come out, and the threaded holes drilled out.

Once all that's done, thoroughly make sure it's all nice and clean as you don't want metal shavings in your engine!

Next up is to get it all back together with everything lined up how you want it. It's pretty much a reverse of the disassembly, the giant clip for the compressor housing is much easier to put back in than it is to take out, much to my relief.



Getting it all perfect is a bit tricky without another turbo to compare it to, but it can be done, and you can always reclock it slightly when it's in the car if need be.

Now that everything is clocked for a redblock application, you'll notice the actuator is in the wrong place, so a bracket needs to be made. This has been covered loads of times in many different ways, including Turborg's awesome way of mounting it on the manifold stud (http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=54545) but here's how I did it.



Looks like crap, but it's solid. After fiddling with it for a while I ended up with 1/8" preload on the actuator arm, which seems to be perfect for 4psi.

I stood back and looked over my work with glee, until later on when I tried to hook up the oil feed.



Needed a last minute modification

Next job was to begin porting the manifold, again using a big drill and carbide burrs.



"It's all about da flowz, woo wooooo"



Nearly there....



Yay!

But that wasn't the end..... The 15g's CBV was well and truly bollocked, so on went the 13c's CBV and all was well.

It's now all hooked up along with the EBC and I can get a massive 6psi before it starts to ping on 95 octane (was running 10psi on the 13c), time for some 98 octane and bigger injectors

Oh and the noise.....WOOOOSSSSSSHHHHHHH

Finally, the usual warnings apply... use eye protection, eyesight is more important than a stupid car, use ear protection if you have it, and don't stick your hand on the downpipe after driving

[Volvo740Ti]

Awesome job man, keep up the great work and the pics are schweet!

[Dr Dokeh]

Oh and some useful Volvo part numbers if anyone needs them.

948645 - Downpipe Nut
977209 - Manifold to Turbo Nut
1357769 - Downpipe Stud
3514546 - Oil return gasket
1306264 - Oil return block seal

[dirtbike]

Looking good Steve, well done!
Time for some more fuel and then a return to the strip.

Do you have a shell garage near you? if so use optimax as it's significantly more detonation resistant, might help you out until you get bigger injector's and lets face it's only about £5 a tank more than 95.
Laters
Nick

[volvorsport]

ooh nice , i feel a 25 litre drum of daves magic fuel for the strip comin on .

[yumling]

I noticed that you listed your car as a LPT. My 1991 945T here in the US also has a td04H-13C, does that make it a light presure turbo.

Also, how's your car running with the 15G? Does it run at the same factory boost pressure (7.5psi)? Is it a lot quicker?

Like you, I am also running a Greddy Profec B Spec 2. Hoping to follow in your footsteps with the 15G or might even go for a 16T.

Great writeup on the install. I gather from the install that you did not need any new plumbing (downpipe, manifold, oil and coolant lines) in the change from a 13c to 15g.

[JohnMc]

Egad - the gratuitous mega-quote!!!

I guess you don't really need to replace those locating pins?

Does the 15G bolt up to the 13C downpipe? Would a 16T?

[thelostartof]

15g w/ a conical housing will bolt up to the 13c downpipe, a later 15g w/ the flat flange won't bolt up. be it that all 16t's are either flat or angled flanges neither will bolt rightup to the stock downpipe. tho if you use a 16t compressor/center and a 15g conical turbine housing they all bolt right up


and nice work on the install, i just find it funny because i've always found it 1000x easier to remove that snap ring than get it back on. removing it takes me like 20 seconds. its reinstalling that's always the pain for me

[Volvo740Ti]

the 94-95 15G's will bolt up to the 13c conical exhaust housing, but in 96 they changed to a 3 bolt flange which would not work. the 16T's also use the 3 bolt flange. the 15G is nice but it doesnt really wake up to about 14psi and up. thats where it gets fun

[Dr Dokeh]

Woah hello there forgotten thread.

Unfortunately for me the 15g started using oil quite heavily under boost. Although while it was running it was freaking great. The 15g at 8psi would quite frankly **** all over the 13c at 12psi.

And just to confirm once again, YES it does bolt right up as long as it's clocked correctly - the coolant lines, oil lines, intercooler plumbing and intake plumbing are all the same. It's almost like replacing the 13c with another 13c.

[thelostartof]

Originally Posted by Volvo740Ti

the 94-95 15G's will bolt up to the 13c conical exhaust housing, but in 96 they changed to a 3 bolt flange which would not work. the 16T's also use the 3 bolt flange. the 15G is nice but it doesnt really wake up to about 14psi and up. thats where it gets fun

no they will not, they will bolt up to the stock DOWNPIPE not the turbine/exhaust housing as the 94+ TD04's are all heavy industries turbos and there for use a larger turbine wheel than the 13c's

[MikeHardy]

wouldn't happen to have the old 13C you wanna sell. my folks 97 turbo has started going bad, pumpiong alot o oil through the intake

[thelostartof]

Originally Posted by Dr Dokeh

Unfortunately for me the 15g started using oil quite heavily under boost. Although while it was running it was freaking great. The 15g at 8psi would quite frankly **** all over the 13c at 12psi.

that's y i warn everyone agaisn't buying ebay 15g's for cheap and they re better off finding one from someone on the boards who pulled them off a running car ... till tho if its just leaking oil the rebuild kits are only $100

[foggyjames]

Highly amusing write-up. Good work

cheers

James

[samyboy]

ooooooooo nice pics, and amusing write up

[MikeHardy]

Originally Posted by yumling

I noticed that you listed your car as a LPT. My 1991 945T here in the US also has a td04H-13C, does that make it a light presure turbo.

no, the only difference between the B230FT (US normal) and the B230FK (LPT) is the FT runs 7.5psi stock and the FK runs 4.3

[thelostartof]

Originally Posted by ravennexus

no, the only difference between the B230FT (US normal) and the B230FK (LPT) is the FT runs 7.5psi stock and the FK runs 4.3

the LPT cars don't have adjustibe wastegate's right?

[foggyjames]

Neither do the HPTs Well...not later ones anyway. Dad's car is now pimping a solid FT actuator.

cheers

James

[Volvo740Ti]

i dont know why i said housing's i ment downpipes

[TerribleOne]

threadjack!


15g thats been modded with a garrett t-3 super 60 compressor and opened up to match wheel size...

[thelostartof]

nice, how thick of metal is that WG bracket?

and what did the maching work cost on that housing?

[TerribleOne]

Originally Posted by thelostartof

nice, how thick of metal is that WG bracket?

and what did the maching work cost on that housing?

If I had to guess I'd say about 4-5mm, it's pretty stout.

I dont remember, it was in the ballpark of 600 with a new cartridge. it was pretty expensive for what it is. but
I can get 8psi by 2500, so it's good down low and it makes power all the way to 6k. It's also ported a buttload on the exhaust side and I opened up the WG hole alot too.

that port job looks good! Ping = Bad, More Fuel + More Boost=