OHC engine in 140

[Super1800GTR]

I know it can be done, I've seen lots of pictures. Did a search but haven't found a great deal of information about how to do the swap. What's the bare minimum that needs to be done to get this swap done. I know there's an issue with the b230 intake hitting the brake booster. I've heard you can use a b21ft intake (haven't seen pics), & seen old b21f? manifolds used. Can you use the OE turbo manifold or is it necessary to build a custom? What about the aftermarket headers used on 200/700/900 cars? I'd be willing to do some cutting of the fenders/hood if need be. Any issues doing the t5 swap along with the engine swap?

Any "experts" on this swap car to do a write up?

Thanks
Rob

[Kevin Hawkinson]

Are ya gonna mount it straight up, or with the gangsta lean?

[Super1800GTR]

Probably straight up. Found some pics where they used the oe turbo manifold on a motor mounted straight up.

I read a little about guys wanting to swap the whole 240 crossmember. Anyone try this? How would you mount the struts, aside from doing a tube chassis & making mounting points off that?

Can anyone confirm that a m410 will bolt up to a b23/230/21 if mounted straight up? Would I still need to modify the tranny mount & need a custom driveshaft?

Rob

[aibast]

I to would like to know that. I have a 142 that needs a good engine in it. Thinking of rebuilding the B20E, but also do a B230FT in it for the kicks and fun

[acbarnett]

damnit, listening to this makes me want to make a 142 16v turbo vintage-style rally car

that would be the hottness incarnate

[JohnMc]

I've even seen a 5 banger 850 motor sitting pretty in a 140 engine bay.

[Super1800GTR]

Yeah the 140 is probably the best candidate for an engine swap w/ regards to pre 75 volvos. I've seen pics of a 5 cyl (the silver one w/ widened steelies). That looks like a little too much work. I seriously think the b23 swap can be done for a reasonable cost.

Found this site. Has pics of a b230 install & 5cyl. Looks like the motor needs to be angled inorder to fit the intake:
http://hem.bredband.net/b104371/ny_rova.htm

But then.. would the stock turbo manifold fit?
http://hem.bredband.net/b104371/mer_bilder.htm
Looking at the top left pic of the turbo manifold it looks like you'd have just enough room for the stock exhaust manifold & turbo. Like I said, I have no problem with reshaping the inner fender wells. The only question is.. will it clear the suspension? A turbo header MIGHT also fit but I have no way of confirming that.

Also found that someone suggest using a 1800E brake booster b/c it's a little shorter/smaller? I have a spare that I'll look @.

If you use a kjet head & b21f intake you could install bosch style injectors in the k-jet holes & run ms. Otherwise you'd have to weld bungs onto the manifold. I'd probably go the later route.

Honestly I'd rather have a supercharged b20, but if you need a new engine & are up for the challenge I'd go for it.


Rob

[NoSloVo]

Originally Posted by Super1800GTR

Can anyone confirm that a m410 will bolt up to a b23/230/21 if mounted straight up? Would I still need to modify the tranny mount & need a custom driveshaft?

Rob

.... if the m410 came out of an 1800 and the 140 was an OD car, all will bolt up with no mods necessary.

[Super1800GTR]

Originally Posted by NoSloVo

.... if the m410 came out of an 1800 and the 140 was an OD car, all will bolt up with no mods necessary.

Sweet!

Measured the 1800 brake booster: ~6.5" wide & ~10" long. Looking at pics of 140's I estimate theirs to be 13-15" long & 8-10" wide. I don't know what it would take to do this swap. Might just be as easy as rebending the brake lines to match. Can anyone verify??

Don't 700 &/or 900's have the alternator on the driver side? Can you use the same bracket & stuff on a b23f? It looks like if you keep the engine @ a slant inorder to fit the b21 intake it might be necessary to move the alt to the other side or do a custom mount. Hot side IC piping would have to be a little creative but that's not too bad.

Here's my list of necessary mods (tell me where I'm right/wrong):
Relocate battery
Modify motor mounts
Weld bungs to b21f manifold
Custom IC piping
Tap into wiring harness for MS stuff
Electric fan
Mount for intercooler (stock)
B20 oil pan & pickup

Still not sure about:
Swap to 'nspark or use OE ignition
Use 140 radiator or swap to 240. Custom mount & lines if using 240
Custom downpipe or modify current
Adapting throttle body for b21f manifold/ adding 850 tps to it's tb (don't know what it looks like)
Throttle cable
B20 oil pump?

What am I forgetting?

Rob

[TurboES]

http://www.pbase.com/turboes/140_16v_project

[Billiam500]

Originally Posted by TurboES

http://www.pbase.com/turboes/140_16v_project

*click-add to favorites*

holy crap, there is a lot more room between the head and brake booster than i thought... i was thinking that i was going to have too get a remote booster or something.

[TurboES]

http://www.pbase.com/turboes/image/44564822
http://www.pbase.com/turboes/image/44564957

[JohnMc]

Originally Posted by TurboES

http://www.pbase.com/turboes/image/44564822
http://www.pbase.com/turboes/image/44564957

No booster at all? Or just one of those remote boosters?

Originally Posted by JohnMc

No booster at all? Or just one of those remote boosters?

Yeah... remote? I'd like to keep a booster of some kind. Nice 16v.

Rob

[JohnMc]

Originally Posted by super1800

Yeah... remote? I'd like to keep a booster of some kind. Nice 16v.

Rob

Not sure if you are asking, but they do make 'remote' boosters. You just have a regular unboosted master cylinder hooked to the pedal, and run a line from it to the booster, along with a vacuum line. Since it isn't mechanically hooked to the brake pedal, you can put it pretty much anywhere. I guess on a 140's dual circuit brakes you'd need two, since the boosting is taking place past the circuit split, instead of just pushing on the master cylinder harder. Hot rod places sell these sorts of things, so you can hide it somewhere unobvious.

I'd think using a smaller 1800E/ES booster would be a lot simpler. Probably bolts right up, just takes up a lot less room as it is a smaller diameter. Would it give you enough room? No clue. A custome log intake manifold would help a lot, I'd guess.

[142sbrick]

are those heads in the first set of pics bolted to a stock 140 block? if so does anyone know where info is on the job?

[JW240]

There are remote brake boosters from i believe some toyota pickups that will work just fine in our volvo's. I have a few articles from a dutch volvo club where someone put a B23 in his amazon, engine vertical. he had a separate brake booster.
I can search for the article if you want...

Originally Posted by JohnMc

Not sure if you are asking, but they do make 'remote' boosters. You just have a regular unboosted master cylinder hooked to the pedal, and run a line from it to the booster, along with a vacuum line. Since it isn't mechanically hooked to the brake pedal, you can put it pretty much anywhere. I guess on a 140's dual circuit brakes you'd need two, since the boosting is taking place past the circuit split, instead of just pushing on the master cylinder harder. Hot rod places sell these sorts of things, so you can hide it somewhere unobvious.

I'd think using a smaller 1800E/ES booster would be a lot simpler. Probably bolts right up, just takes up a lot less room as it is a smaller diameter. Would it give you enough room? No clue. A custome log intake manifold would help a lot, I'd guess.

I was asking the same question you were. I did know they made them but wasn't sure how they worked. Thanks for the explanation. I agree that a 1800 booster would probably be easier, atleast for me since I have an extra. I'm trying to do this on the cheap using parts that I already have. A custom intake would be great & might be necessary but I'll save that as a last resort.

JW240.. That would be great!

Rob

[JW240]

Originally Posted by super1800gt

I was asking the same question you were. I did know they made them but wasn't sure how they worked. Thanks for the explanation. I agree that a 1800 booster would probably be easier, atleast for me since I have an extra. I'm trying to do this on the cheap using parts that I already have. A custom intake would be great & might be necessary but I'll save that as a last resort.

JW240.. That would be great!

Rob

Hi,

I already searched, but haven't found it. But I keep searching until I've found it, I want to know it now!

[Billiam500]

Originally Posted by 142sbrick

are those heads in the first set of pics bolted to a stock 140 block? if so does anyone know where info is on the job?

highly doubt it. the b20 has the distributor toward the rear and if the head bolt pattern is the same(also doubtful) the holes for the pushrods would be unvocered. I have heard of some guy in australia that marketed an OCH conversion for a b20 though...

[Super1800GTR]

Originally Posted by Billiam500

highly doubt it. the b20 has the distributor toward the rear and if the head bolt pattern is the same(also doubtful) the holes for the pushrods would be unvocered. I have heard of some guy in australia that marketed an OCH conversion for a b20 though...

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showth...hlight=16v+b20
http://europeancarweb.com/events/041...vo/index1.html

[Billiam500]

Originally Posted by Super1800GTR

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showth...hlight=16v+b20
http://europeancarweb.com/events/041...vo/index1.html

That might be the conversion I was talking about...but that's not a b234 head.
BTW... that VIR link...the pic of the Blue and white 122-
That's me in the grey shirt.
and that 16v 1800 has a b234 r-sport engine, not a b20.
i held that ver VPD supercharger, before I aquired my 16v's I was planning on SC-ing my b20 and talked to john there.

[Billiam500]

Originally Posted by JohnMc

I guess on a 140's dual circuit brakes you'd need two, since the boosting is taking place past the circuit split, instead of just pushing on the master cylinder harder. Hot rod places sell these sorts of things, so you can hide it somewhere unobvious.

My dad put a dual circuit cylinder and remote booster on his 544. He just boosted the front brakes and used an adjustable brake bias valve to send more pressure to the rear.