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Old 11-24-2005, 01:48 PM   #1
klr142
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Default No Longer Mom's Grocery Getter('91 244)

Summary of current setup(updated 4/29/14 - 208k on car):
Quote:






Car's full gallery seen here with the newest pictures at the end:
http://ovtuners.org/gallery2/v/membe...142_001/MY244/

Misc details:
-Tint, 38% side windows, 18% rear
-Keyless entry(was working, now solenoid or something in driver's door is weak, need to look into it)
-Heated seats(pass. stopped working, haven't looked into it)
-Air-conditioning converted to R134
-Kenwood deck with 5.25" front door speakers and 4" rear door speakers, RF amp, and Kicker 10" sub(thanks Dan + Shane!).
-Dash mat, floor mats(blue cloth and black rubber)
-Large tachometer, small clock conversion
-VDO vacuum gauge when I want it
-De-pinstriped
-Removed front amber reflectors, installed clear upper parking light bulbs, kept amber turn signal bulb
-Black on blue interior theme

Suspension/Brakes:
-17x7.5" Tethys wheels from a S60T5, wheel and hub centric 35.5/38.5mm adapters, rear fender lips "rolled", 225/45-17 Michelin Pilot Super Sport tires at the moment(awesome! But next I'll get some Continental all seasons and run some dedicated track tires for fun stuff), had Hankook Ventus V12 EVOs and 215/45-17 General Exclaim UHP tires before that(great for a daily driver tire, especially in the wet when new, not the best for autoxing with though, they're a little on the soft side and don't have as much contact area as they could - that being said, the V12 EVO tires don't feel much better and after some miles on them grab ruts, REALLY badly - not really impressed with them, although I did get ~30k+ out of both tires, somehow!)
-IPD braided stainless steel brake lines
-ATE Type 200 brake fluid
-Poly control arm bushings up front
-Poly torque rod bushings, original front lower TABs with new rubber rear TABs
-IPD adjustable panhard rod
-25/21mm swaybars with poly bushings (had solid/adjustable end-links from Kaplehnke installed but went back to stock w/poly to smooth/quiet down the ride a hair)
-Stripped of undercoating and painted front subframe, control arms, strut assemblies and front calipers
-Volvodan upper strut brace, Volvo GT strut to firewall braces(currently removed for less interior noise/vibration/crashing over bumps), IPD Cherry lower brace(heavy, but so worth it)
-GT strut tower reinforcement plates
-Bilstein HDs up front(internal bumpstops shortened) and back, had Koni Reds/Specials set full stiff(still not quite perfect but ended up liking the cushier ride of the HDs more) - Have some HDs sitting around to get droop shortened and custom damping rates one day...
-Was: 10x200lb coil-over springs up front sitting in stock perches with help and 2.75-3ish coils cut from wagon springs on the rear. Now: some red lowering springs(Lesjofars?) with a coil and a half cut from the front and the dead coil removed from some TME rear springs(might also be a coil and a half, can't remember for sure).
-Trimmed rear bump stops, none up front except the Bilsteins' internal ones.
-Kaphlenke geometry roll correction spacers installed on middle quick steer setting(LOVE/HATE THEM!!! car is MUCH more planted in the rear, easier to put the power down and less roll up front, definitely a plus!) But, the steering geometry is off a hair more when doing full lock turns and it of course rubs on whatever there is to rub on because there aren't any more steering limiters. It also puts a heavier load on the steering rack and other components, which, in my case, sucks because you can't get a good rebuilt rack anymore and my recently replaced one is worn already. I'll be going back to the stock balljoint holders to make the car steer more like stock and make tight turns better.

Driveline:
-RSI head with 46/38 valves, street valvespring kit(7500rpm), Jonathan's port work and valve grind, shaved .040" and using a .040" MLS headgasket for .033" squish - 10.8:1 compression
-H cam 0-8 degrees advanced depending on what I want(ENEM K13 puts down similar power to H cam in this setup on stock intake/LH, etc. except has slightly worse driveability under 2000rpm, is slightly rougher/noisier everywhere and has a weaker idle - ONLY SLIGHT, I'll be swapping it back in because the car has a lot more low end torque when the cam is advanced 6-8 degrees but detonates...)
-LH2.4 ECU and EZK chips(custom 6800-7500rpm) - currently using custom chips for the 146 EZK and 951 ECU(Using an Ostrich 2.0 emulator and TunerProRT to tune! so awesome, car's never run better!)
-Ishihara-Johnson crank scraper(*should* remove until I have piston oil squirters)
-Oil pan drilled in optimal position for turbo oil return(that I don't plan to use)
-KG Trimning Type 3 copy header, modified the old Type 1 described here with 51mm secondaries and new collector from Columbia River Mandrel Bending. Old: KG Trimning Type 1 header with 44mm primaries and secondaries, with secondaries shortened to ~17"(primaries are also about the same length, in theory should be good match for H cam with a 5800rpm power peak, but I suspect it's still too small for anything other than a stock car... It may be limiting my power above 4000rpm, but maybe it's more the intake's fault? Probably both)
-RSI full 2.5" mandrel bent S.S. exhaust with 2.5" metallic spun Magnaflow cat, Dynomax Race Bullet and Magnaflow 4x9x11 and 5x8x18" oval mufflers(swapped out my old Dynomax Bullet and 4x9x14" rear mufflers because it was too loud with the engine/header work - I need to add sound deadening to the trunk to quiet the in car sound some more, still - outside is awesome)
-16V white top injectors(cleaned/flowed) - (stock ones were still providing enough fuel in this setup, but...)
-3.0bar FPR(stock)
-Bougicord shielded spark plug wires after multiple different brand aftermarket plug wire failures
-K&N air filter in modified airbox
-Wideband o2 sensor(need to get a new one, current one is dead)
-960 E-fan and relay with 82/77* temp switch screwed into the top of the radiator - holds temps basically right where 87* the t-stat wants it!
-M47 transmission(have broken two in ~50k!) with RSI modded flat flywheel(15.4lbs) - had lightened LH2.4 flywheel(pedastal'd + more, 22.2lbs vs. 28.7lbs)
-TruTrac rear diff with the stock 3.73 rear end gearing. Still spins inside rear at times in autox...

Performance:
-Weight: 2900lb
-Dynoed 139whp and 146wlb-ft, best AT setup pre-head/cam with RSI NA cam was 115whp and 128wlb-ft on a Mustang dyno.
-Fastest pass at the drag strip is a 15.437@86.72mph, with a 2.147 60'
-Best gas mileage so far is 30.0mpg and have done a couple over 415+mi tanks now... w000!

To do list:
-B21F intake manifold with a 4 bolt throttle body on the front(for 16V, 960, 850 TBs)
-Maybe 300-350lb front springs and 175-200lb rears on coil-overs at some point
-Larger, custom camshaft...
-Transmission with good gear ratios(likely T5 of some sort with tall first and medium 5th with 4.10 rear end, but I'd really, much rather, have something quieter and more modern!)
-bottom end rebuild
-sound deadening in the trunk/elsewhere

Appraised at $8500, "fair market value".
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
When I first got the car:
So, I've been driving it around for almost two months now while my 142's chillin at the shop, and a couple of weeks ago, I put down the money to buy it. It just "grew" on me, a LOT. Now 105.6k, with a b230F, LH2.4, and a tragic auto that for some DUMB Volvo reason, doesn't have a lockup converter. If only it did *sigh*, I'd be much happier. So, here it was, while my mom was trying to sell it:







The plan is, nice, comfy, relatively luxurious(coming from a '68 142) with keyless entry, four speakers(instead of one), heated seats, a REAL rear window defroster, power brakes, power steering, AC(needs to be changed to R134), power windows, etc.

Last edited by klr142; 04-29-2014 at 07:06 PM.. Reason: Updating...
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Old 11-24-2005, 01:55 PM   #2
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that exterior is rediculously clean...
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Old 11-24-2005, 02:00 PM   #3
klr142
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Thanks! Other than the broken passenger side pocket and the plastics on the rear deck, it is REALLY clean. I love it. Now I need some dark tint to protect everything else, and the dash is just STARTING to have a little crack in it... Any ideas? I need to get a dash cover for sure, but will that stop the splitting?

Another post coming soon, with starting mods...
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Old 11-24-2005, 02:11 PM   #4
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Custom work begins!

Out with the preheat hose, preheat thermostat, old rotor, old cap, old air filter... Just put new NGK plugs in a few months before, as well as some Mobil 1 w/Purolator filter, which today, 1500 miles later, is still clean looking! In with the Aurora 8.5mm spark plug wires, new Bosch cap and rotor, Mann air filter... Also gave it a little water treatment, as I don't have any seafoam. Gas mileage didn't really seem to budge much, if at ALL after doing all this. Even though the old air filter was rock hard(not THAT dirty though), and the plugs, cap, and rotor, were only 14000 miles old, but they looked bad-ish.







As you can see, I also added the Virgos and Virgo replicas I got a while ago, with massive 225/50-15 Grand Spirit tires on them... I did NOT purchase the tires, and they are NOT what I would've gone with, but that's what I got for $150, new tires on Virgos, much better! The grip, is insane. 240s ROCK! The front wheels have less dish, are slightly lighter, and easier to clean, IPD Replicas. I have the "real" virgos on the back because they have a deeper dish lol. I get rubbage on the outside of the Pass. side rear wheel, and MAJOR rubbage on the inside of the Driver's side... :-\ Only over large bumps though. Or just when I'm flogging it on the mountain roads on my way to work.

Yesterday, I gave the car a wash... Now I need to vacuum it out, and clean the engine bay... Should be getting it all buffed sometime in the near future too. I'll probably take off the pinstriping before that, and I MIGHT remove the Volvo and 240 emblems too, but I'm not sure if I want to or not yet. I DID take off the Herzog Meier and stupid Dove thingies though.




^BEEFY!^


And now, for the differences between the Virgos and the IPD Replicas. Yep, different colors I know.



V15 cam, 240 Turbo exhaust, and tranny flush are next on the mods list... Well, they were going to be, but then Pat came up with this other idea... I don't have pictures on this computer yet though, so I'll hold off on that post...
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Old 11-24-2005, 03:19 PM   #5
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tranny flush is the fastest, easiest thing you'll ever do.
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Old 11-24-2005, 03:51 PM   #6
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+t it and go for the record for breaking that pos tranny :P

great car, i wish mine was in that one;s shape when i got it
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Old 11-24-2005, 04:26 PM   #7
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Man thats one clean 240. Reminds me of my first one :D
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Old 11-24-2005, 08:11 PM   #8
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there were a couple of purdy 42/63's at the Tigard yard.... one of those would be a good match for a naturally aspirated big-rod b230f like they put in the 90+ 240's...

jussss sayin'

It's definately purdy as **** tho. I'd love to have a quiet, clean car like that.
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Old 11-24-2005, 11:10 PM   #9
klr142
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I'll do the +T thing later... For now I'll settle for the V15 and Turbo exhaust(minus the S bend at the end). I've got some other projects and money I need to take care of before I start going crazy(ish) on my DD. But when the time comes, I'll be ready to boost 5-8psi with a 90+ manifold... I'll need a bigger exhaust and a different cam though, so that will probably not be until next next summer, and if people pressure me too much, I might not get other work done on the 142, and I'll have to +T this instead... We'll see. Do those T3s mount up to the 90+ manifolds?
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Old 11-25-2005, 03:24 AM   #10
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Nice! Looks good with the virgos on it. Can't wait to see it in person, either before or after mods.
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Old 11-25-2005, 04:36 AM   #11
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Hey, how come there's no link to info about your Chrysler van in your sig? I'd love to hear what you've done to that baby! Lol.

The Virgos DEFINITELY worked wonders on the car. With the way it looks now though, it REALLY needs some 17"s or 18"s though...
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Old 11-25-2005, 05:08 AM   #12
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You need center caps ... I propose some nice black plastic ones, courtesy of engine degreaser cans.



-- Kane ... I know that even you can afford 0.99 a can.
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Old 11-25-2005, 05:17 AM   #13
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Hmmm.... I dunno man... Money's pretty tight these days... I think I may be in luck though, I think there are some cans lying around here somewhere. But maybe, they're in the 145, which is at Ethan's house, lol. Oh, and that doesn't account for the smaller hole in the IPD replica though, so I don't think it'll work.
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Old 11-28-2005, 03:42 AM   #14
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Dayum. What is it with 240s? Maybe it's just who I live with now or something. Progress on the 142 was always slow, and I still haven't done THAT much to make it handle better or faster. Maybe it's also part of having a car that's pretty close already to stage 0, but seriously. Work is progressing FAST on this car!

Last wednesday night, we lowered it.(so far, 2.5 coils off the right front, 2.4ish off the left front, 2 each off the rears) Looks hip hoppin, yesterday, we tossed in a tach and small clock, and tomorrow night, we toss on the panhard rod I got from IPD, cut some more off the rear springs, and install bigger sways. We removed those heavy plates behind the rear axle on both sides too. The left side rubs on the inside still, and we even have a 5mm spacer on it! After we put the bar in though, I'll have 5mm spacers on both sides, giving the back wheels an effective offset of +15 each, and better filling the rear fenders... Loving it!

And, I think I might even get dumb and toss the V15 in this week as well... Maybe...

Oh, and I might try to get a good condition 13c this week as well. Uh oh. No, it won't be installed for a GOOD while, but, since it's in good condition, is local, and cheap, I might as well grab it while I can.

Oh, I know of some Poly torque rod bushings as well... I don't think those'll make it in until next week possibly. I'll have to pick them up on Saturday. If I find the time that is.

Beefy!!!


Hmm, what's inside this box?

(Yes I know the pictures need to be lightened, I just wanted some quick pics)

More pics coming tomorrow... This is soooooo awesome. I love my roommate. It's all his fault, I blame him. The *******...

Thanks Pat! Thanks Ethan! Thanks Mom! Thanks Collan! Thanks Lee! Thanks TB! And everyone else too of course.

Last edited by klr142; 11-28-2005 at 03:49 AM..
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Old 11-28-2005, 03:57 AM   #15
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And just for fun... The next next things on the to do list, not in any particular order or time frame:
-Tint
-Bilsteins
-Alignment
-Turbo exhaust
-Speaker/deck upgrades
-Strut bracing+maybe lower brace as well

All sooner rather than later though. So hopefully that means within a couple/three months. Insurance is just about to hit me though, so we'll see how much that hurts...
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Old 11-29-2005, 03:24 AM   #16
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Got a little more off of the rear springs, not necessarily enough for optimum handling, but I don't want the car to be any lower than it already is, so I'll have to go to alignment settings and swaybar setups to tune that out... I also forgot to take pics of the panhard installed, and the car lowered in the light of the shop... So, here's all I can manage for now, along with a picture of a Ferrari F430 Spider I saw on my way to work.






EDIT: This is with the 5mm spacers installed on both sides... The car is so low, that the panhard rod goes PAST parallel with the ground and causes the DRIVER'S side to rub when I go over bumps(on the outside of the tire) now. I might adjust the panhard rod a little bit, but I might just leave it where it is and take the 5mm spacers off. I don't like the way it handles right now with them on. This weekend we'll install the V15 and some bigger sways. Was supposed to do sways tonight, but I didn't bring them to work with me...

Anyone know of some cheap bilsteins for sale? I need some quick... After those and the coming strut tower bars, I need an alignment! Then the car will handle, OH so well. Mmmph, can't wait!
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Old 12-02-2005, 03:50 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PWRPUFF
You need center caps ... I propose some nice black plastic ones, courtesy of engine degreaser cans.



-- Kane ... I know that even you can afford 0.99 a can.
HAHAHA. You really roll like that?
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Old 12-03-2005, 02:43 AM   #18
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e-fan! e-fan! its seriously like +10hp (straight up rice style, but fo real tho), esp if the fan clutch is old.
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Old 12-03-2005, 12:21 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by linuxman51
e-fan! e-fan! its seriously like +10hp (straight up rice style, but fo real tho), esp if the fan clutch is old.
Oh fo sho man, I believe it... It'll be in the works. Later today we do the cam swap, new shocks(just KYB GAJs for now), and some bigger sways.
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Old 12-03-2005, 05:33 PM   #20
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Did you get the 25/25 bars? If you need poly bushings, I've got plenty...
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Old 12-04-2005, 02:10 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b4_ford
Did you get the 25/25 bars? If you need poly bushings, I've got plenty...
Nope, don't have any. We went to Damascus earlier today, picked up 24 poly torque rod bushings(three cars worth) for free, hehehe, I smuggled them all into my pockets in my jumpsuit and big coat, and Turbo sways(23/21), better than nothing!

Right now I'm in the VShop, Pat's in there replacing the seals on the front of the engine, timing belt tensioner, and installing the cam... I put turbo sways on his car, my car, put some used KYB GAJs on the rear of my car, and some new KYB GR2s on the front.

Strut tower bars should be in the mail soon. I want to get the lower chassis brace and the GT strut mount reinforcements next(well, suspension wise next). And install the torque rod bushings.

Next on the list is some tint I think, and accumulating parts for +Ting it! Then, m47, red/clear rear taillights(current ones have cracking/leaking issues), e-codes... And whatever else I've mentioned before. Pictures coming tomorrow of some stuff that we did tonight.

w0000! Can't WAIT to drive it!
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Old 12-04-2005, 06:29 AM   #22
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BuDunkaDunk!

It's hip-hoppin! Initial start-up was rough like a mad cam until the car warmed up a tad and got used to new cam, but now it idles smoothly and makes more power per throttle application everywhere! Well, MAYBE not under 2krpm, but MAYBE yes even under 2krpm. Timed straight up. It feels better. The 6k rev limiter is definitely not going to be holding me back, the car doesn't STOP pulling per say, but it definitely drops off(after maybe 5-5.2k? gotta try it out some more), just not as bad as the stock cam. We'll see how much more it improves when I chop off the front of the airbox and put on a Turbo exhaust... Should help nicely up there and everywhere else as well. Dyno coming soon I think, but that'll be before the exhaust for sure, and maybe before the further intake mods as well. I'm going to route the preheat hose out to the front spoiler as well as cut the front off of the box. I'd like to do the exhaust and the intake at the same time, just for a bigger seat of the pants difference, but, I think I've spent more than enough on the car for the time being. The exhaust will be January stuff... Probably anyway...

When going 40-50mph, and I'd floor it, dropping into second, it pushes me back in the seat noticeably now. Partially also because I tightened the kickdown cable, which I need to do some more because it shifts way too soon still, but mainly because the car makes that much more mid and upper rpm torque(thus HP). Going up hills in OD should be better on the highway now, which will be nice, because before it just wasn't adequate enough and I'd lose speed unless I downshifted on some hills(OUCH!).

So, installed parts for today list:
-5k old V15 NA cam
-New KYB GR2 front struts
-Used KYB GAJ rear shocks
-Used (red)poly torque rod bushings for new front bump stops
-23/21mm 240Turbo swaybars
-New timing belt, tensioner
-New rear cam cap, front cam seal, front main seal, intermediate shaft seal

I'm going to change the oil in about 500 miles or so(after only 2500 or so) on this Mobil M1 0w40. I tried this weight out without reading up more on it first, I was just being noobish and figuring that it is better all around, and many newer german cars use it, but I'm going to go back to 10w30 M1... Hopefully the valves will be quieter or get quiet quicker on cold start-up. I don't need any better protection than 10w30 anyway with the climates we get here.

Handling? Car seems much more willing to turn, although doesn't seem to have any more oversteer than it did...? So that's cool. The roll stiffness doesn't really FEEL like it's been improved that much, but I know it is... The car also feels like it might ride better over bumps, BUT, I do feel more of everything even though it isn't as harsh feeling over bumps and stuff. Or maybe I'm imagining it/forgetting what it was like before. But I think it does feel like I feel everything in the road, like I have the tires pumped WAY up again. I don't like that though because it makes the car want to rattle more... So it seems to rattle more, but absorbs bumps better. And it definitely controls body movement better, that's for sure. It'll work for now. With the little GT strut reinforcement plates I hope to lose a little oversteer and gain a little ride height in the front. So, maybe I'll have to get those before I get the alignment as well. Argh. So I guess I'll order some of those soon here, and I'll toss them in when I put the strut braces in(maybe I'll get the lower brace at the same time, damnit, I'll call that a christmas present, right?) and the torque rod bushings. THEN I can get it aligned to something along the lines of 1 deg. neg. camber, as much camber as it'll evenly allow at that setting, and zero toe.

Yup.
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Old 12-05-2005, 04:15 AM   #23
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Sorry about the crappy pics... I wasn't paying attention to the fact that the camera was on the wrong settings... Oh well, here's what I've got.

Just another shot of how low it is(well, was before the new shocks, which didn't seem to visibly raise it much)

The new GR2 front struts with the old factory ones...

ENEM V15 NA! w0000

It flies!

KYB GAJ's in the rear

And, a picture of the panhard rod installed...
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Old 12-05-2005, 04:37 AM   #24
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Looking good, Kyle. Still, the KYB's aren't supposed to work that well on lowered cars, so

The e-fan will really help higher up in the revs.

Quote:
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HAHAHA. You really roll like that?
Yes I did. Hard to tell it's just an engine degreaser can cap, really. No longer own the Parabox, though.

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Old 12-05-2005, 04:48 AM   #25
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