home register FAQ memberlist calendar

Go Back   Turbobricks Forums > General > showroom

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-21-2006, 05:53 AM   #1
BB-Q
(. )( .)
 
BB-Q's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Costa del Fylde
Default How to Make a Bead Roller (by request- kinda)

First off, this is not really my own work. Yes, I made this one and did my pipes with it, but full props must go to Chris Wiita AKA The POI for the original idea and it's execution. I've only done this to help those who seemed a bit confused in a thread in P & S.

This is how I did it and I assume no responsibility for damage caused to people or objects as result of using my methods. Please wear appropriate eye protection too- I've had bits of metal removed from my eyes on several occasions over the years and it is not pleasant.

The reasons for doing this are very simple. That shiny aluminium tube that looks so pretty in your engine bay is not so good at retaining the silicone hose and clamp once boost pressures get much past 12-14psi. So it needs a bit of help. Think of it as a welcome obstruction to preventing the intake air making it's bid for freedom before it goes through the engine. Since the turbo's had to work so hard to cram all that air into your intake it seems a shame to lose it on the way. Another, very good reason is that popping off hoses at full power can over speed your turbo and potentially damage it.

Firstly you'll need two slugs, or billets, of metal about 1 1/2" across- although the size isn't too important as long as it fits inside your I/C pipe. To be honest, the bigger the better- although that could cause other accuracy issues too, so lets not go there! I had to get mine from a machine shop, although I think those of you in America can get the relevant billets from McMasters or somewhere like that.
I don't have any pictures of this part of the process as I didn't know I'd be doing a write up on it at the time, But I'll put this one up so you can see what you are aiming for:



Firstly, if the billets don't have holes in then drill one in the centre of each one. Accuracy is very important here- measure twice drill once. The holes should be of a size that will allow the bolt you have chosen to go into the side of the vice to rotate freely but fairly snugly in the billet.

Once you have your centralised holes you can go to the next step- shaping the formers.
Take a long bolt and put it in a billet, bolting it up tightly. Then put it in a drill. I used a normal electric drill in the vice, but this is not ideal. A properly mounted bench or pillar drill would be far better.
With the drill in the vice (or on your bench or wherever) take your angle grinder and ensure that when it is switched on it is counter rotating to the billet in the drill, otherwise you'll be just synchronising drill and grinder speeds rather than shaping metal.

The plan is to form a shape like this:



With a male and female side to the former. From that image I'm going to call the lower former the male and the upper the female. If you look closely at the picture you will notice that the male former's protrusion is much narrower than it's female counterpart opposite. You will also see that the gap is fairly even between them throughout the profile. It is very important that the resulting formers look like this (or better!) to prevent a cutting action when you try to roll a bead. Failure to do this will just ensure that your pipes get shorter with each attempt to roll one.

Right, you've done that bit? Good.

Now drill the relevant holes in your vice to allow you to tap a thread in there. Remember that for an M6 thread, for example, you do not need to drill a 6mm hole!

Also, try to drill into the cast part of the vice as it's much softer. Make sure you position the holes so that the two formers will touch before the vice closes, otherwise you're kinda screwed.

When choosing your tap don't use a cheap and nasty one like I did or it may snap without warning causing you to have to redrill your former and have to drill and tap the case hardened steel jaw on one side. Ask me how I know

Right, you done that bit now? Go get a bit of pipe!

The next bit is really simple as long as you are patient.



Put the pipe into the formers as shown and close the vice until they are just touching the pipe. If you try to make a bead in one pass you will just end up with an unusable triangular profile bit of scrap. It takes 5-10 minutes to make a bead, so take your time.
Start rolling the pipe, ensuring that you feed it into the formers as you're rolling it to prevent any catastrophic warping. Don't worry if it warps slightly- it does not need to be perfrectly round to seal. Also, you can easyily bend it back into shape if it does distort without taking it out of the formers. Difficult to desribe, but easy to do- promise!

After a few passes tighten the vice up a tiny amount. Pretty soon your peice of pipe will start to look like this as a bead starts to form:



Keep going, keep tightening a tiny bit at a time and you'll soon have a bead in your pipe looking something like this:



The profile of your bead will undoubtedly vary from mine as each set of formers is going to be unique. No, it's not pretty, but the only person who'll ever see it is you, so who cares?!

You'll notice too that the bead is not massive- it doesn't need to be. It has increased the diameter of the tube enough to increase the clamp tension significantly as the pressure tries to force the pipe and hiose apart. That is it's job.
After doing this modification I have gone from popping off hoses and anything above 14psi to using 20+psi with no issues at all. Hopefully your results will be as favourable.
__________________

Quote:
Originally Posted by foggyjames View Post
The man is a pimp, and a fast one at that...
Quote:
Originally Posted by frpe82 View Post
He's got that "crazy Mark" look in his eyes...........
1992 245 SE B200F, M47, Low and painfully slow.......

v8volvo240.com
BB-Q is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2006, 06:00 AM   #2
Lucky the Smiling Pirate
roadkill
 
Lucky the Smiling Pirate's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Phoenix, AZ, USA
Default

w00t! very informative
__________________
Lucky the Smiling Pirate is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2006, 10:56 AM   #3
frpe82
Guest
 
Default

Very nice work there Mark!

This should be moved to Symposium.
  Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2006, 11:18 AM   #4
Matt Dupuis
Board Member
 
Matt Dupuis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Calgary, Ab
Default

Nice job.

FWIW, for ultra-high pressures, it's best not to rely on the silicone to sustain the longitudinal strain from boost trying to pop the hoses off. Rather, a mechanical connection between the pipes themselves is best, with the silicone only needing to resist splitting. Most mechanical connections don't allow much in the way of flexing, and with a road car using rubber motor mounts there will always be some flexing. Considering the availability of really high quality silicone connectors these days, mechanical connections are probably overkill and a good rolled bead & T-bolt clamp is all that's needed.
Matt Dupuis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2006, 12:33 PM   #5
the poi
Meh
 
the poi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Pasadena, CA
Default



Deja vu! Thanks for making the write up I've been to lazy to do . Looks great dude!
the poi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2006, 02:49 PM   #6
Delfosse
VFL
 
Join Date: May 2006
Default

good thing my friend has the proper tools at his dads shop! so I wouldent have to drill into my dads vise lol

Good idea thow if I ever need to make one I will know how!
Delfosse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2006, 04:08 PM   #7
Citysurf740
Board Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Boston
Default

so where you get the billets from?
__________________
www.sfaboston.com
Citysurf740 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2006, 04:26 PM   #8
Morley
Barbie Ken
 
Morley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Norway
Default

That silly Briton just HAD to mount the rollers on the opposite side...
__________________
Morley is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2006, 04:58 PM   #9
the poi
Meh
 
the poi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Pasadena, CA
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Morley
That silly Briton just HAD to mount the rollers on the opposite side...
heeeeeeeeee.


the yankees can get the blanks from mcmaster.com . Just search for metal disks, 12l14 steel i beleive. don't remember the specfics. they're categorized as samples.
the poi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2006, 06:53 PM   #10
BB-Q
(. )( .)
 
BB-Q's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Costa del Fylde
Default

I went to a machine shop and asked them to cut me a couple of bits off. Cost me nothing.
BB-Q is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2006, 09:19 PM   #11
dl242gt
Can play the blues
 
dl242gt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: S NJ, a suburb of Phila.
Default Nice work!

Thanks for posting that Mark. That made a very good bead on the pipe.

Great info from the BB tool and die shop!
__________________
Dave,
1982 242 turbo. 340k miles. Good stuff and lots of rust.
1993 245 Classic, 420k miles, enem V15. IPD bars and chassis braces. Simons sport exhaust from Scandix. sbabbs ezk chip. Been a good road warrior. Genuine Volvo rebuilt leaky M47.
dl242gt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2006, 04:57 AM   #12
MikeHardy
The Sirius/Nova Police
 
MikeHardy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: northern Wales, UK
Default

so now your car has stopped blowing hoses offhas stopped throwing that TPS fault code
MikeHardy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2006, 02:00 PM   #13
BB-Q
(. )( .)
 
BB-Q's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Costa del Fylde
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ravennexus
so now your car has stopped blowing hoses offhas stopped throwing that TPS fault code
No, still got the intermittant TPS problem. You can tell when it's not giving a signal as it either stalls or idles at 400rpm.
Need to check the connections through the loom.
BB-Q is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2006, 02:56 PM   #14
Captain Bondo
Exklusiv Zubehör Klub
 
Captain Bondo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Default

I just burn beads onto the end of pipe as I fabricate it, since it's in the vise and the welder is in my hand already.

Still a neat little project though to be sure.
__________________


-Kenny
(I crushed a 240 with some stuff done to it. Honest.)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordan View Post
Turbobricks isn't a car forum any more. Its a forum for lame kids.
Captain Bondo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2006, 04:20 PM   #15
Beanie
Bored Member
 
Beanie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: NJ
Default

Nice. Now all I need is for someone to do a write up on building a tube bender.
__________________
94 945 16T Turbo. Currently at 17psi. 3psi on Browntops. (Awaiting KG2T) Cam advanced 3°. 3" In and out. Chipped. Water Injected. Last weighed at 3700 lbs.
Beanie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2012, 12:30 AM   #16
project volvo
spoolakowski
 
project volvo's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: from Burlington now Farmington,CT
Default

figured i'd bump this thread since I decided that I would need a way to roll pipe so my father and I came up with this. A preliminary run on thin/not so perfect pipe wasn't great. I'll try to grease up the bolts so that things could turn easier.

__________________
SIG


project slowski (old project now gone)^^^

New Project Slug Works


my feedback thread here > FEEEEDBACK!!!!
project volvo is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:23 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions Inc.