buget rebuild Q

[Tabor]

So, I have done pretty much everything there is to do to a car: except rebuild a short block.

So, I have a quick question: If I find a B23F block, can I crack it open and install my B23FT pistons after honing the cylinder walls and call it good (assuming no scoring etc)? Or should I look for a B21 to bore out?

TIA

[coldfusion21]

find A B23F. A b21 will prolly handle it ok, but it makes the cylinder walls very thin (so i have heard) i suppose you could always have it Sonic checked after the boring or something. but i would just nab the b23f block, take the ridge off the top and be done with it.

[Tabor]

Originally Posted by coldfusion21

find A B23F. A b21 will prolly handle it ok, but it makes the cylinder walls very thin (so i have heard) i suppose you could always have it Sonic checked after the boring or something. but i would just nab the b23f block, take the ridge off the top and be done with it.

Cool.

FWIW this is just for backup incase anything ever happens to my B21FT. Very soon I will have rebuilt/replaced or inspected every single part EXCEPT the small block - I just want to have a spair lying around.

[John V, outside agitator]

Originally Posted by Tabor

So, I have done pretty much everything there is to do to a car: except rebuild a short block.

So, I have a quick question: If I find a B23F block, can I crack it open and install my B23FT pistons after honing the cylinder walls and call it good (assuming no scoring etc)? Or should I look for a B21 to bore out?

TIA

Obviously any person with an ounce of brians would start with clean low miles B23 block.
Of course finding a low miler here in the PNW where the cars don't rot and get driven so long is a pretty tall order and the bores do go out of round, so angain, obviously a smart person would ask the machine shop who is waiting hand and foot to "dial bore gauge the cyliders and write down how round and how tapered they are, please".

And.....

How many times does somebody need to post the same gawddamm place in Portland to buy a bareblock or a rebuilder core motor? Short attention span, innattention, sheer pointless obstinance, or just can't be bother to pay attention cause it's easier to click and clack?
Engineers----sheeeeesh!

How old you say you were?

[coldfusion21]

How many times does somebody need to post the same gawddamm place in Portland to buy a bareblock or a rebuilder core motor? Short attention span, innattention, sheer pointless obstinance, or just can't be bother to pay attention cause it's easier to click and clack?

I really hate to ask, but what exactly are you getting at here? i understand the posting multiple times thing, but of what exactly?

[Tabor]

Originally Posted by coldfusion21

I really hate to ask, but what exactly are you getting at here? i understand the posting multiple times thing, but of what exactly?

I asked once before if it was a good idea to bore out a b21 to b23 bore size. John V is too slow to understand this is a different question.

Hey John V, I don't post useless drivel to threads you start, maybe you would repay the favor?

As for the machine shops I know, they would sell me oversized pistons - I am farmiliar with that. I am farmiliar with paying a machine shop to assemble a short block for me. Until I met these bunch of folks, I didn't know what a "budget rebuild" was. I wanted to try one.

[John V, outside agitator]

Originally Posted by coldfusion21

I really hate to ask, but what exactly are you getting at here? i understand the posting multiple times thing, but of what exactly?

Tabor needs to find a block, plenty of others in the Portland/Vancouver area have asked also "where can I find a crank" "where can I find a block" "If I find a B23 block......"

Jesus, just call Engine Rebuilder Supply.

Just seems that for a tight-ish group of guys finding parts and information seems difficult.

[towerymt]

Don't use a B21 unless you absolutely have to.

Sonic test BEFORE boring...you'll know how thick the walls are in various spots, and you'll know how much will be taken out by boring, so you can determine if you've got .100 or not.

[The Aspirator]

To the original question, assuming that the B23F and B23FT pistons are the same size, it'll be a pretty loose engine once it's honed out. Do-able if you're on that much of a budget, good enough if necessary, but nowhere near perfect.

[Canuckvolvo]

The FT pistons are forged, so they need a bit more clearance, which is how you can get away with it, but you need a pretty non-worn b23F/e to start with. I ended up with about 0.004" clearance and everything works well. Glad i don't drive it in the winter with that kind of clearance though.

[John V, outside agitator]

Originally Posted by Canuckvolvo

The FT pistons are forged, so they need a bit more clearance, which is how you can get away with it, but you need a pretty non-worn b23F/e to start with. I ended up with about 0.004" clearance and everything works well. Glad i don't drive it in the winter with that kind of clearance though.

the .004 is cold clearance, if you have a thermostat, and when you run the motor and the temp comes up to 90C then the clearnace isn't .004 anymore.

All of us Xrartty guys have Mahle forged pistons stock and we drive in winter, no problem.

[blkaplan]

Originally Posted by towerymt

Don't use a B21 unless you absolutely have to.

Sonic test BEFORE boring...you'll know how thick the walls are in various spots, and you'll know how much will be taken out by boring, so you can determine if you've got .100 or not.

Do as i say, not as i do!!!!

[towerymt]

Originally Posted by blkaplan

Do as i say, not as i do!!!!

I wouldn't have done as I did had I not found the right block for the right price. Can't beat an already sonic tested, bored to std b23, and o-ringed block for $25.

[Canuckvolvo]

Originally Posted by John V, outside agitator

the .004 is cold clearance, if you have a thermostat, and when you run the motor and the temp comes up to 90C then the clearnace isn't .004 anymore.

All of us Xrartty guys have Mahle forged pistons stock and we drive in winter, no problem.

Fair enough, but you get pretty mild winters down there Trust me, I ran this motor a few times last winter and it was NOT happy starting at -25C (well, it would start fine, but it sure didn't sound great). Oil got gassy pretty quick too.

[Hank Scorpio]

Originally Posted by The Aspirator

To the original question, assuming that the B23F and B23FT pistons are the same size, it'll be a pretty loose engine once it's honed out. Do-able if you're on that much of a budget, good enough if necessary, but nowhere near perfect.

both my 21 and 23ft's were just hone and rering jobs. The cylinder walls hold up very very well on a redblock.

But I also refused to spend any money on a bottom end I knew would eventually (but never did) explode. Both had fine compression numbers, never rattled, smoked ect.

[The Aspirator]

Come to think of it I don't know if my machine shop ever gave me the piston to cylinder wall spec for your old B21FT that I rebuilt for Elliot. Humm, now I'm curious! But I did deck it for tight squish and to bump the compression.