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S-L-O-W 1993 240 Classic wagon

740atl said:
What do you want to do with the car? Is this a toy or do you need it to be reliable? If it?’s the latter, stop what you?’re doing and live with the fact that you have a slow car.
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Ah, but who's to say I can't have a toy that is reliable?

This is a 1993 Volvo 240 Classic wagon, last year of production, and a special model: one of only 800 wagons made. I won't be doing any high performance engine modifications, and for the most part it is bone stock. It is not a daily driver. I take it on long trips (1500 miles at a pop). I require reliability. I have other cars that are fast. And so, one more time for the record: I am at peace with the fact that a stock normally aspirated Volvo 240 wagon with an automatic transmission is a bit pokey compared to a 1996 Caprice or a 1996 Cadillac Fleetwood V4P, which I also drive.

What do I want? Well, having said everything above, all I really wanted were ideas to chase down as to why installing a VX cam gave me absolutely zero performance gains. I was aware of the internet rumor that the 531 head was used by IPD in their advertised gain of 19 HP, but even with a 530 head many other purchasers of the VX cam have reported modest gains in speed and higher rpm ceilings with the VX cam as a replacement for the M cam in normally aspirated 240 sedans and wagons. I got bupkis from my installation of the VX cam. Based on initial suggestions to the post here (Thank you!!!), I disconnected the heated air duct to the airbox, and.... poof.... the 0-60 time dropped from 15.4 to 13.4: a 15% improvement. I am now very happy. I got a good bump in speed from installing a VX cam while I was mucking around on the top end of the engine doing other maintenance, and for $185 bucks. That was a good deal in my estimation.

What else might I want? The idea of shaving the head ever-so-slightly is something I might do if I ever need to replace the head gasket. From what I read, it's pretty a modest gain in performance... maybe 10 HP at most. But why not do it if the head has to come off? Come to think of it, maybe if the head has to come off, I'll buy a completely rebuilt 531 head from Clearwater FL, shave it as suggested above, swap the VX cam into it, and see what happens. If it generates enough umph to get me to a 12 second 0-60 time, I'd consider it $450 well spent, even if I have to spend a tad more for premium fuel. I could do that job in about 5 hrs. Yes, my 240 will still be a relatively slow car, but for me it will be more fun than waiting 15.4 seconds to get to 60 mph, and the car still would look and sound stock, and still be reliable.

I think this is reasonable. I am pretty much in line with recommendations made in the sticky post on that topic leading this forum section (see: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=354499), a great read, BTW. It will still be very reliable. It is also, for me, more fun. At the very worst, I'll keep you all posted and you can learn from me as a negative example.
 
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I mostly noticed performance gains beyond 60mph with the VX cam. My 0-60 felt the same, but 60-90mph felt like a different car.
 
dl242gt said:
Yes, I know all about that. Except the door sticker on my 93 which uses 185-70-14 tires stock on a wagon. I've used the stock 78 series type tires and find them too tall. As are the 205-70-14 tires which will slow down the car a good amount. All of the tires you mention as good are all too tall for any decent performance from these cars. A 195-70-14 is another good alternative size for a wagon.
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I'm missing something here. How can a tire be "taller" and yet have the same revolutions per mile? How can they similarly slow down the car? We might quibble regarding cornering based on tire profiles, although even with the exact same tire size, there are substantial differences in handling characteristics among specific tire brands and models. Not all 205/70/14s are the same. Otherwise, no one would buy a Michelin tire in any size.

But really, among all of these tire sizes we are talking about revolutions per mile differences of 5% or less (often MUCH less). Height differences would be less than that by a factor of 2pi(radius). We can differ on what we consider "decent" performance (on a highway, not a racetrack), but the math is what it is. The driver and their familiarity with the handing of the specific car is, in my mind, probably the most important factor in staying on the road when pushing the limits. I'm familiar with what this car can do, and I'm familiar with the loose nut behind the wheel.

None of this has anything to do with my original question about before/after a VX camshaft installation, but it's fun.
 
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How about getting the cooling system overhauled, if you're worried about reliability

While you're there, change all of the belts, seals and gaskets
 
G'day hessam69!

What makes you think I'm worried about reliability? I drive a 1993 car, and my backups are GM cars from 1996.

But, to your jibe: Read the opening post more carefully, lad. I did flush the cooling system. I also replaced all the system hoses, all belts, and just about every seal and gasket from the get-go; except the rear main. That's not leaking yet. When it does, I'll get to it. I needed to get on with asking a question, so I did not include every aspect of maintenance in the post.

Not much issue with overheating in upstate NY. The greatest peril up here is whitetail deer. Kind of like hitting a big red, but on all fours and some of the big bastards have horns.
 
Radtap said:
Automatic? That slush box probably ate whatever horsepower increase you got
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Well, neener neener neener, pffffflt!

But, note that I did not say that I replaced the manual transmission with an automatic when I replaced the cam.
 
May I suggest aftermarket cat and somewhat more free flowing exhaust as next performance upgrade.
 
JE Jr said:
May I suggest aftermarket cat and somewhat more free flowing exhaust as next performance upgrade.
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"or do a cat delete and annoy convertible drivers or bikes at the redlight"

Yes. But I want to avoid anything significantly louder than stock. I spent too much time applying acoustic mat to interior body panel surfaces to go boy-racer on an exhaust and undo all that work. IPD has a good stainless system that is 2.25" from the cat back for about $350, but they deleted the intermediate muffler. I might try that and splice in universal fit 2.25" intermediate if it's too loud. The larger cat would be done at that time, and there are several inexpensive options for non-turbo cars.

But I'll likely go for shaving the head/thinner gasket on the 531 head + the VX cam to yield something under 10.5 compression first, as that is what's recommended first on the TB list of recommended performance upgrades for NA engines (you see, I am listening to your collective advice). The cost of the head vs the exhaust mod is about the same in money and sweat. If I go for the higher compression and a better-breathing 531 head, and it sounds constipated above 3500 rpm, then I can quickly upgrade the exhaust.

This could get expensive if I go beyond the above, but that's very unlikely to happen. The car is from California, it's looks new, mileage is relatively low, it's rust-free, and I bought it cheap. I have a very long way to go before I come close to what my estate could sell it for (hopefully in the very distant future). Before I start drooling on my shoe tops and am still able to appreciate it, I want it to have a bit more power, but within reason.
 
Just installed a BTI wasted spark system on my NA 940 Autotragic. Together with air box mod and BTI chip its actually OK for what it is. Bear in mind that the car started with a B230FB which has 531/VX cam, factory rated at 131 hp.
I plan to replace the exhaust, better cat (both mediocre aftermarket), modified secondary merge and best just ditch the automatic.
B230E 'Svanhals' intake with added injector bungs is also something I am looking at. Gonna make one for my 240 so might as well do it for the 940 too.

Maybe some things you can do as well.
 
An aftermarket exhaust is plenty big enough for all but the most race oriented NA B230's. The exhaust that IPD sells is bigger than the NA stuff. You'll need to make 180-200 hp before the 2.25" exhaust begins to become a problem.

So exhaust from the "downpipe" collector to the back. The IPD exhaust with one muffler isn't that loud at all. I'd keep a cat. Even in my neck of the woods where you can get any POS inspected they still check (visually) for a cat converter. And the Magnaflow high flow Cats are pretty cheap.

So get a muffler shop to make a Cat pipe and then complete it with the IPD parts from there back.


After that, hotter spark, better spark control, and a shaved head is about the biggest things you can do before you start really spending money.
 
dmg4 said:
...

What else might I want? The idea of shaving the head ever-so-slightly is something I might do if I ever need to replace the head gasket. From what I read, it's pretty a modest gain in performance... maybe 10 HP at most. But why not do it if the head has to come off? Come to think of it, maybe if the head has to come off, I'll buy a completely rebuilt 531 head from Clearwater FL, shave it as suggested above, swap the VX cam into it, and see what happens. ...
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Oh? Pray do tell. Is this a one off or shop? I would love to know of any other Volvo resources around here.
 
DD Ranch said:
Oh? Pray do tell. Is this a one off or shop? I would love to know of any other Volvo resources around here.
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Shhhh.... you'd never guess the name of the place.... it's a shop called Clearwater Cylinder Head.
 
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Well it seemed to me that you are asking for some easy upgrades to your car. The tire sizes I've suggested are all from real world experience on these cars as to what works and what doesn't work so well.

You can reference rotations per mile or reference the overall diameter either way you are using tires that are too tall for any decent driving enjoyment. Those tall sidewalls on a 205-70-14 just roll over on any brisk cornering. Good luck with your car.
 
dl242gt said:
Well it seemed to me that you are asking for some easy upgrades to your car. The tire sizes I've suggested are all from real world experience on these cars as to what works and what doesn't work so well.
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Thanks, I do appreciate the effort to help. But I think this might be a case where one person's experience is simply different from another's. It's a 14" rim, no matter what tire is on it. Tread width X aspect ratio yields the sidewall height. So, in the most extreme difference between the various sizes discussed: a 195/65/14 has sidewall height of 127 mm. A 205/70/14 has a sidewall height of 143 mm. That's a 12.6% (a little more than 1/2 inch) difference in sidewall height. That difference is height is generally offset somewhat by an increased thickness of the sidewall, and engineers do design tires to keep the tread on the road irrespective of the numbers stamped on the side. There are significant differences between brands and intended uses of different tires that might also affect a person's experience. Whatever 205/70/14 tire you tried obviously did not favorably impress you. However, I took this car 270 degrees through a 100 ft diameter roundabout at 50 mph with no loss of control. Then I did it again a few days later with my son in the car, just to have a witness. That's enough for me with respect to pushing it's limits in cornering.

205s are wider than a 195. They will possibly stop the car faster... but only possibly. I've put about 5000 miles on the tires on some pretty windy roads (e.g., NH 116S from Franconia to Wildwood). I've also clocked about 300,000 miles in various Volvo 240s, so this is a familiar car. All I can say is they feel fine to me, but I do also drive a 1996 Cadillac Fleetwood, so perhaps that has colored my perception.
 
Those 205/70’s are over an inch taller than the 195’s Dave recommended. You not only get the benefit of a stiffer sidewall with the 195 which is what Dave was referring to, but also what amounts to a shorter rear gear which will increase your acceleration.

In your quest for a less slow car, it’s something you should consider.
 
Faaaaaack. I'll do it. I just need to find a home for four new 205/70/14.

I located the same tire in 195/65/14 for $87 each. I assume these will fit the OEM 14" wheel, yes?

Can someone let me out of my locker now?
 
I doubt the ~1 inch change in tire height is gonna make a meaningful difference in acceleration.. Certainly not a difference worth spending extra money on.
 
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