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This is what I used to calculate my set-up. I geek out on this kinds of stuff.
Too bad no-one has gotten this technical with the 240 chassis… *goes online and starts looking for an other Miata*
I was in the same boat as you. It took me 3 years to finally sort out my vibration problems. The tail shaft bushing is a major culprit and misaligned CV joints make it worse and worse the more you drive it.
I swapped out the motor/trans mounts to poly. Changed the trans mount back to rubber...
Driveshaft/pinion alignment… that was my problem.
Also… what type of trans mount are you using? From what I live been reading the T-5 doesn’t like stiff mounts like poly. I switched to the cheapest rubber mount it fixed all sorts of noise and vibration.
Now all I get is the sweet third gear...
You can adjust the center support height when you do the retrofit.
When I had my support modified I made sure there was room to add shims between the bearing and support to raise if need be. You can also add shims between the support and the floor pan to lower it.
I had to lower mine 1/3” to...
So I guess my… guess of 250 front was spot on. I know the the Diesel springs are 100.
So… how any coils do you cut off? And what is used for a fromt coil-over/spring?
I’m not able to modify OE so I’ll have to buy something.
I’m rusty with my suspension witchcraft… I’m guessing I have 25mm...
That's what I'm using now. 15x7 Multi-Xs with el-cheap-o 205/60/15s... not too many options I think the best I can get is Radial T/As
Don't like the look of 16s"
I edited my comment... I'm bad for that. o_O
So I'm probably 100 lbs over a "standard" 240 sedan being that my 5.0 is a 1990 original minus the smog pump and A/C.
I think we are on the same page. My rear-end is swapped from a 1030 3.73 to a 1031 3.31 with a TrueTrac mounded with BNE conical...
To be fair... I'm not looking to "lower" the car unless there is a reason for doing so. The ipds look like a cosmetic "upgrade" but I don't care about my stance.
1.75" F and 1.5" R drop? A rear bias "rake" looks "good" but It puts more weight to the front reducing rear grip. Great for showing...
First off… I’m not into “stance bro”.
I don’t want the car to handle like a shopping cart anymore. I guess to some that’s just fine if you’re getting… groceries.
It’s got a V8. It has some power… going quick in a straight line is boring. I like going quick around a corner.
So… my goal is some...
I have the lower IPD braces… not the upper. I do have an older IPD strutbar that I’ve been wanting to swap out.
As for the springs I’m wanting to go a bit stiffer. Idk. ~250 lbf/in.
What ratio works with this car? 244 with a SBF
4:1, 3:1?
My car is in need of struts… so might as well go ahead with an upgrade.
Wanting to go with the BNE regular height Koni set-up all around. I may lower the car 1” maybe idk. I’m fine with stockish ride height.
I’m looking for street performance… I doubt I’m going to track or motor cross it...
The question remains… can that connect to a VSS?
I guess I’m asking the wrong question… can my currently adapted cable accept a VSS?
As you can tell I know very little of this subject.
The Fox is a mechanical speedo too but there is a Vehicle Speed Sensor that tells the ECC to raise or lower the idle at a set speed. Usually when stopping and starting to roll. Works in tandem with the Neutral Position Sensor for smoothing low speed drivability.
I’m wanting to re-connect a speed sensor on the T-5 so the Ford ECC has some input to function 100%.
Is there a way to mate a Mustang T-5 speedo cable to a ‘81 264 cluster? Or… adapt the Volvo cable to accommodate the Ford T-5 speed sensor?
I know this has been covered lots before… but here I go anyways.
First off let’s just say I hate Ford PS pumps.
My PS pump and lines all need to be replaced… still hanging in there but the end is nigh. It’s a Ford pump plumbed into a Volvo CAM rack with some sort of adapter that replaced the...
I found them used locally. I had to combine two pairs to make a set. They were listed on FB market place at the same time 100 miles apart oddly enough.
They were in fairly good condition except for some pitting on the bead hook in two of them. Just wire wheeled the crap out of them and used...
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