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tremec t5 resonance

threewagons said:
Good luck fitting one in a 240
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I'll not derail this thread, but as K9 says, it's simple to fit a M90 in a 240. The only complex part might be the clutch if you currently have a cable (the M90 uses a hydraulic clutch, as do all UK cars, so simple for us).
 
302ftw? said:
Does this mean a hydraulic pedal box for 240s exists in Europe/UK @crogthomas ?
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Pedal box is the same for cable or hydro clutch, just different clutch pedals.

STS sells these

www.stsmachininginc.com

240 volvo hydro clutch pedal kit 1975-1993

We are now offering hydro clutch pedals for 240 1975-1993. These pedals are made out of 6061 aluminum and feature a powder coated black finish. They will bolt right into the stock location of the stock pedal box and come with a clevis. The clevis has a thread pitch of 5/16-24, which works for...
www.stsmachininginc.com www.stsmachininginc.com
 
Yeah and I bought 260 prv hydro clutch setup at bro junkyard for 50, took it to STS to copy and they make em and sell em so no excuses... Personally I kept the cable clutch in my junker 245. It will never be a 740 turbo! I then sold the stock 240 hydro pedals on here. I didn't keep em for meself and say nobody else gets em, I had em copied and sent out around der world! Who der volvo bro now?
 
sloopy said:
I'm still going to try to make sure I have the transmission output aimed at the center support as best as I can before I put it back together.
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I think this will be key for you. You've got basically the same setup I went with. Stock 2-piece with a slip-yoke added. I just adjusted the trans mount so it was as close to aligned with the center support bearing as possible. I think I've put around 10k miles on my swap, and it's been great.
 
I got a sightmark magnetic bore sight and stuck it on the end of the output shaft. It was about a quarter inch to the right of center looking towards the rear. Got it centered up. I also swapped the spicer center support for a 740 one. Got the driveshaft back in and went for a drive. So the vibrations used to start getting bad around 40, progress into an unbearable resonance by 45-50, and turn into an awesome racecar sound after 70. Now after balancing the driveshaft and switching to the 740 center support, the vibrations past 40 are a lot better and the car is much more driveable now. There's still a resonance, but it doesn't hurt my brain. But now I get a very noticeable vibration from 20-30 where I used to have practically none. So maybe the driveshaft isn't balanced well enough yet, and maybe I need adjustable torque rods because my rear is pretty low and the pinion is pointed down a bit.
 
Or maybe my output shaft bushing is worn out. I have noticed the output shaft seal weeps a bit since day one. The transmission was a fresh rebuild, but it had an electrical speedo tailhousing originally and I had him swap it for a mechanical one later after I had fitment issues with the crossmember, but I think he just grabbed that tailhousing from another transmission and didn't replace the bushing or seal. Or perhaps my driveshaft vibration wore it out quick? Is the output shaft supposed to move at all by hand?
 
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sloopy said:
. So maybe the driveshaft isn't balanced well enough yet, and maybe I need adjustable torque rods because my rear is pretty low and the pinion is pointed down a bit.
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There's your problem right there. If you haven't got an equal and.opposite angle to output shaft you will always have vibration
 
Thing is, I lowered it before the t5 swap and I did not have this problem then. And this shake at 20-30 is new since having the driveshaft balanced and installing the 740 carrier bearing.
 
sloopy said:
Thing is, I lowered it before the t5 swap and I did not have this problem then. And this shake at 20-30 is new since having the driveshaft balanced and installing the 740 carrier bearing.
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That's all fine and good, but the issue remains that if your angles are off it will never be happy. As mentioned earlier in this thread, the m46 has better tolerances (plus looser/degraded rubber bushings) and was likely masking a problem that existed when you were lowered but had not installed the t5. Also, a host of changes are now in place including different fore/aft and left/right placement of the tail shaft relative to the pinion. In short, get it adjusted and eliminate it from the factors that could be affecting the drive line.
 
Ok yeah perhaps the m47 mount, crossmember, and giubo were masking things. I don't have any adjustable torque rods and Ben's been out of stock on the hybrid ones I want for a while unfortunately. But I do think my tailshaft bushing is worn out since the seal is leaking so I've ordered a tool to help me replace the bushing and seal.
 
Driveshaft/pinion alignment… that was my problem.

Also… what type of trans mount are you using? From what I live been reading the T-5 doesn’t like stiff mounts like poly. I switched to the cheapest rubber mount it fixed all sorts of noise and vibration.

Now all I get is the sweet third gear whine cause racecar.
 
Gonna crosspost from another thread I have:

Basically everything that could be wrong with my setup was wrong and resulted in horrible vibrations.

- T5 tailshaft bushing is worn out (leaking oil from the seal and introducing vibrations)

- modified driveshaft was out of balance

- transmission is probably still not in proper alignment

- pinion is pointed downwards

And on top of that I had the spicer center support which is super hard and was transmitting all of that into the cabin very nicely. I'm trying to power through here. It's been a bit discouraging also because The transmission keeps popping out of 5th gear after you get on and off the throttle a few times. You can see it move backwards each time I lift off the throttle. I'm going to try driving it without the boots (boot around the shifter assembly and the interior shift lever boot) and see if that's still happening.
 
sloopy said:
Gonna crosspost from another thread I have:

Basically everything that could be wrong with my setup was wrong and resulted in horrible vibrations.

- T5 tailshaft bushing is worn out (leaking oil from the seal and introducing vibrations)

- modified driveshaft was out of balance

- transmission is probably still not in proper alignment

- pinion is pointed downwards

And on top of that I had the spicer center support which is super hard and was transmitting all of that into the cabin very nicely. I'm trying to power through here. It's been a bit discouraging also because The transmission keeps popping out of 5th gear after you get on and off the throttle a few times. You can see it move backwards each time I lift off the throttle. I'm going to try driving it without the boots (boot around the shifter assembly and the interior shift lever boot) and see if that's still happening.
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I was in the same boat as you. It took me 3 years to finally sort out my vibration problems. The tail shaft bushing is a major culprit and misaligned CV joints make it worse and worse the more you drive it.

I swapped out the motor/trans mounts to poly. Changed the trans mount back to rubber. Shimmed up the trans mount as far as it would go. Rebuilt the trans mount because it wasn’t welded straight, Replaced the center bushing… only to retrofit a 740 mount a month later. Replaced CV joints and balanced my shaft to about 95% perfect. Rebuilt my transmission because it was pissing oil everywhere. Contemplated going with an Aerostar shaft and decided not to because I’m committed to a two piece shaft with double slip joints after all the time spent. Then it took about a year tweaking my driveline angles on my spare time.

What a pain! But it’s nice and smooth now.
 
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