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-   -   Charisma. (https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=310178)

Jerd 05-01-2019 10:02 AM

Brake master cylinder apears to be going out. The pedal slowly sinks at a stop with light pedal pressure. Sourcing an ABS master should be fun. Borrowing a cam shim kit from a buddy, I’m hoping incorrect valve lash is contributing to, or causing the rough idle that has plagued this car since I bought it back. The guy who had it for a while put a B cam in it. Planning building the exhaust this weekend.

Harlard 05-01-2019 12:35 PM

No 15g and t cam?

Maaaaan

Jerd 05-05-2019 11:58 PM

Threw together an exhaust, turned out alright. Like usual, there are a few things I’d do differently if I did it again.
http://i.imgur.com/XEQiwGmh.jpg

I also checked valve lash and discovered one valve was .002” too tight. Yah that’s a little bit of a bummer because I still don’t know why this thing idles like garbage.
https://i.imgur.com/Jd6piQKh.jpg

Jerd 05-06-2019 11:43 PM

I got a brake master from O’riellys. Guess I’m doing that this weekend. I have some stainless braided brake lines I have been meaning to put on. Anything else brake related you guys think I should check/do while I have the system open?

slow240 05-07-2019 06:31 AM

Buy motive pressure bleeder and never look back. I just bought one after borrowing a buddies, had the 245 bled in 20 minutes, by myself. Totally worth it.

Jerd 05-07-2019 08:34 PM

Glad you mentioned that, i asked around and a buddy is loaning me his.

Jerd 05-09-2019 08:05 PM

Met a really nice guy named Luke got an m47, STS flywheel, pedal box, front shaft, and a clutch cable. Making a shopping list for the ipd garage sale.
https://i.imgur.com/XJRy8hDh.jpg

Harlard 05-09-2019 08:46 PM

Yay Luke Jones!

What do you need? I'm at a surplus for parts...

Jerd 05-09-2019 10:15 PM

I didn’t catch his last name. He has a 244 for sale, the body damage is a real bummer, car was super clean otherwise. https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/...882762565.html

Cool I’ll have to get my list together and send you a message.

Jerd 05-10-2019 11:30 PM

Replaced master cylinder and installed braided brake lines. Feels so much better!
https://i.imgur.com/WPt8Z29h.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/TRdRT9lh.jpg

Decided to toss together a strut tower brace with some material I have had laying around for years.
https://i.imgur.com/h9OQ7wvh.jpg

holtzboy 05-10-2019 11:46 PM

You got to be careful with the new style clutch cables, they like to stiffen up and bend the firewall plate. Kjets on a Plane might have a used old style version for sale.

Jerd 05-11-2019 12:49 AM

Good to know, I wonder why? He had an old one too that I grabbed.

Jerd 05-12-2019 09:19 PM

Went to hop in the whip to make a beer run and the door handle broke. None of the near by junkyards had a 240 so I gave welding it a go. It worked but omg was that material nasty. Reinstalled and it’s operational, should probably pick up a spare Incase it breaks again.
https://i.imgur.com/CRlQJtoh.jpg

Jerd 05-18-2019 10:34 PM

https://i.imgur.com/hYsXGa0h.jpg

MadDog_945 05-19-2019 04:52 AM

i am missing pipes through passenger compartment ;)

Jerd 05-30-2019 10:43 PM

Tachometer installed.
https://i.imgur.com/qtqJPdOh.jpg

Jerd 06-08-2019 12:31 AM

Drilled
https://i.imgur.com/k0xRYWRh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/VLouKa8h.jpg
Broke
https://i.imgur.com/LyFkqaTh.jpg
Dog
https://i.imgur.com/lvsD1QOh.jpg
Welded
https://i.imgur.com/ICsEFWah.jpg
Third pusher
https://i.imgur.com/mDuamfMh.jpg

Jerd 06-17-2019 03:54 PM

Most are wise enough to pull the springs and cycle the suspension while building an over axle exhaust. I on the other hand, like doing things twice. Pan hard rod would contact the exhaust about a half inch before bump stops. Re-did the exhaust and have plenty of clearance now.
https://i.imgur.com/aAyeaiVh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/zbeXjcgh.jpg

hackster 06-19-2019 05:18 PM

Nice work!! Glad to see you chomping away on this thing again. Let me know when you are ready for the long travel setup in the front. Pretty sure we can do center mounted arms off a new crossmember and make it drive well.

I also like doing things two times......it doesn't get better with age.

Sean

slow240 06-20-2019 06:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hackster (Post 5963684)
Nice work!! Glad to see you chomping away on this thing again. Let me know when you are ready for the long travel setup in the front. Pretty sure we can do center mounted arms off a new crossmember and make it drive well.

I also like doing things two times......it doesn't get better with age.

Sean


I've wanted to do a long travel setup in the front for a while now, but I never could figure out where the rear pivot points would go. Front pivot is easy, you could even use the stock Kmember with some modifications. But those rear bushings that you've been fighting with, I never could come up with a design for it.

Unless you went with a 7/9 style control arm with a stay rod, but even then, the pivot point has to be on the same plane as the front.

Idk, if someone figures it out it'll be you lol

Jerd 06-24-2019 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slow240 (Post 5963936)
I've wanted to do a long travel setup in the front for a while now, but I never could figure out where the rear pivot points would go. Front pivot is easy, you could even use the stock Kmember with some modifications. But those rear bushings that you've been fighting with, I never could come up with a design for it.

Unless you went with a 7/9 style control arm with a stay rod, but even then, the pivot point has to be on the same plane as the front.

Idk, if someone figures it out it'll be you lol


Seems to me like you either keep factory control arm mounting points and shoot for 11-13" (edit: more like 10") of wheel travel with a McPherson strut. Or get silly with some tubing and double A arms for 15-20" travel. Being budget limited and attempting to keep my goals realistic im leaning towards staying McPherson. I think 14-18" (edit: more like 10-12) of rear wheel travel is attainable and more than that will become difficult without just continuing to increase ride height. I think 12ish up front and 16ish out back sounds good.

For the front, i found a long travel strut for the rear of a Subaru forester made by hot bits with 305mm of travel. JohnV made some 240 steering knuckles with a billet machined insert to adapt to a modern strut assembly, so thats not unrealistic. I need to take a lot of measurements and check for limiting factors such as ball joint, and tie rods. Control arms will need to be longer.

Im not expecting the rear to be difficult but i have not looked into what that kind of travel will do to the driveshaft/pinion angle.

Probably going to run a 215/75/15

John V bits, i could copy this idea to run a suby forester strut.
http://i475.photobucket.com/albums/r...oknucklesC.jpg

Hot Bits 305mm travel strut for the rear of a suby forester, they build to order and will custom valve. They have a single adjust and a double adjustable option. Still need to contact them and see what all the options are.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1673/...e1e41dbb_b.jpg

Still just spit balling at this point... Opinions?

EDIT: emailing hot bits, a 305mm stroke strut is 811mm long. Thats like 7" longer than stock. Most lifted guys are going 3" longer and control arm angle at full droop is already getting extreme. I would have to change the angle that the ball joint mounts to the control arm and probably extend the control arms atleast 2.5" over factory. Not to mention the ride height and control arm angle at ride height would be concerning... Hmmmmmm 12" travel with a strut and factory control arm mounting locations may not be possible after all.

EDIT: I could cut the top of the strut tower out and raise the upper strut mount out the hood. Then there is maintaining tire clearance at full compression.

Jerd 06-28-2019 10:07 PM

Bought one of those aliexpress shifters. Thing is a piece of ****. The revers lockout collar is not even remotely concentric was binding on the stop at the bottom. The hole tapped in the top of the shift rod was not deep enough for the bolt they put in it allowing the shift knob to move freely. The ball pivot is not a ball it’s more like an oval and with the supplied brass bushings would bind horribly when shifting into anything other than 3rd. The shaft is straight and would require a bend to even work. They chose to use a different size pivot ball so I can’t even use the brass/bronze bushings with the stock shifter. Ended up just hacking the shaft off the China shifter and welding it onto the stock shifter and then extending below the pivot point with some 1/2” rod. After correcting the screw length as well as removing material from the lockout shaft to prevent binding, it looks good and feels good.

You get what you pay for?
https://i.imgur.com/uwgGvSwh.jpg

Harlard 06-28-2019 11:33 PM

I mean sellholm is expensive as ****...

blkaplan 06-30-2019 04:15 PM

I am having JRZ build some struts for me right now with factory housing length but with 235mm of travel. Getting them valved for gravel / offroad.

food for thought

Jerd 06-30-2019 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blkaplan (Post 5967841)
I am having JRZ build some struts for me right now with factory housing length but with 235mm of travel. Getting them valved for gravel / offroad.

food for thought

Excellent! Thanks for the heads up!


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