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MikeSr. 07-25-2007 08:15 PM

One addition - there is a fan ground wire in the harness, too.
Also-wired my way, the fan will run with the key off until temps cool down.

Homer 07-26-2007 12:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeSr. (Post 1329869)
One addition - there is a fan ground wire in the harness, too.
Also-wired my way, the fan will run with the key off until temps cool down.

Same here.

Tamnakz 08-03-2007 01:21 AM

I'm converting my '86 240 to an E-fan, and am also going have another conversion ready for when my '76 244 gets on the road. I picked up 850 fans. I've got one question on it though.

I'm going to set the high speed off an in-line temp sensor (Bottom radiator hose, I'm using a Saab inline sensor housing). I'm going to run this off an ignition-switched relay, so that it only works when the car is on.

The low speed, I'm going to run off of the sensor in the radiator, so it'll continue to cool on the low after the car is turned off.

Does anyone see a problem with this?

Boostin740 08-04-2007 10:13 PM

where do you get the sensors for the coolant lines that turn the fan on at a certain degree (looking for around 190-200F unless someone says otherwise)
i tried an e-fan out of a 95 buick century custom, but the damn fan motor was too big. :grrr:

Tamnakz 08-04-2007 11:31 PM

Pick up an in-line sensor housing from a Saab. 3 bucks at the local PnP for me.

mickeys240 08-05-2007 01:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by swedefiend (Post 685316)
High amperage current should never flow through a switch ;-)

Relays are your friend... (They are there for a reason)

tell that to chrysler. 2 fires in the same place. (The switch)

Jordan 08-22-2007 12:31 AM

I just wired up a fan in my car with a Honda four-pin relay. They are mega reliable. I can scan the diagram I used and take pictures of the install too if there is any interest. Lemme know. It works perfectly and took me about an hour.

Steve O 08-28-2007 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tamnakz (Post 1342859)
I'm converting my '86 240 to an E-fan, and am also going have another conversion ready for when my '76 244 gets on the road. I picked up 850 fans. I've got one question on it though.

I'm going to set the high speed off an in-line temp sensor (Bottom radiator hose, I'm using a Saab inline sensor housing). I'm going to run this off an ignition-switched relay, so that it only works when the car is on.

The low speed, I'm going to run off of the sensor in the radiator, so it'll continue to cool on the low after the car is turned off.

Does anyone see a problem with this?

The one in the radiator is too high. Use a low temp sensor from a scirrocco<sp> in the saab fitting for the low speed and the one in the radiator for the high speed. I did mine like this and haven't had the high speed come on yet as the low temp works well.

jmclay 09-01-2007 10:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BDKR (Post 1242901)
Everything is correct except for the manual override part. The switch that disables/enables the circut is a switched power source! In other words, put your key in and turn to on and the fan circut is enabled.

Additionally, the easy way to run and control your fans is just to get one of these:
http://static.summitracing.com/globa.../flx-31165.jpg

It also has the two stage (variable speed) control you are after.

I decided a long time ago that hacking the OE fan stuff sucks. Here is my fan.
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...er-16926_w.jpg

What model fan & controls are in your post, and where did you get them?


EDIT: found it

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showth...tor+dimensions

BDKR 09-01-2007 11:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmclay (Post 1384839)
What model fan & controls are in your post, and where did you get them?

Go to Summit and search Derale. That fan/shroud assembly should come up. I'm not using that controller right now, but they have those there at Summit as well.

Crazychopstick 09-06-2007 12:35 AM

Okay, with the 940 relay, if teh highspeed (white/black) is running to a dashboard mounted SPST switch, do I need any inline fuses anywheres?

Jordan 09-06-2007 07:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crazychopstick (Post 1392023)
Okay, with the 940 relay, if teh highspeed (white/black) is running to a dashboard mounted SPST switch, do I need any inline fuses anywheres?

Any hot wires, or wires that are supplying power should have a fuse as close to the battery as possible. If the hot wire goes through a relay however if its a hot relay system instead of a grounded relay system you just need the fuse on the battery side, again as close to the battery as possible.

Thats just a general wiring rule of thumb.

Crazychopstick 09-06-2007 11:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fiend (Post 1393157)
Any hot wires, or wires that are supplying power should have a fuse as close to the battery as possible. If the hot wire goes through a relay however if its a hot relay system instead of a grounded relay system you just need the fuse on the battery side, again as close to the battery as possible.

Thats just a general wiring rule of thumb.

I'm guessing it's a "grounded" relay system since the switch will be leading to a ground (how the 940 2 speed operates). So it's not hot? So no fuse?

Jordan 09-07-2007 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crazychopstick (Post 1393522)
I'm guessing it's a "grounded" relay system since the switch will be leading to a ground (how the 940 2 speed operates). So it's not hot? So no fuse?

Correct. As long as there is a fuse from the power supply, if anything surges that fuse will blow and it will be impossible for any other wire to spark and cause a fire because they will all be dead wires. You don't really need a fuse but its insanely stupid not to have one. Just remember, any wire that goes from power supply (+) to anything needs a fuse as physically close as possible to the origin of the (+) source.

McLovin 09-10-2007 12:17 PM

Okay. So seriously. What temp sensors do you guys use???!?!?? I have a T-Fitting from a Saab 900S and I assumed I'd be able to find a generic sensor at autozone or something, but I can't find one anywhere. I really need to get this thing up and running. Using the heat when I'm in traffic is killing me.

tryingbe 09-10-2007 01:45 PM

Google found

Quote:

I paid $34 for an adjustable thermostatic fan control switch from O'Reilly auto parts. It's made by Hayden Automotive, part # 3647. Includes a temp sensor that mounts to the radiator as well as a control box and relay.
http://www.partsamerica.com/productd...artNumber=3647

thelostartof
Quote:

me personally i just went and got a cheapo $15 haynes switch crap from kragen/autozone/pep boys .. as they all have it .. its just a generic rad/thermostat that is adjustible so its nice as you can set it when to come on and what not. take its design for measuring the temp isn't all that great but for $15 it worked as has yet to fail me
Also
http://www.partsamerica.com/productd...pe=843&PTSet=A

JohnMc 09-10-2007 02:18 PM

I'm vaguely considering taking the 940 efan back off mine, and putting the shroud and mech fan back on. the issue is that on hot days, when driving around fast with the A/C on, the temp needle rises.

But a couple of things hold me back:
1) Still haven't bypassed the temp compensation board, it might just be dorky electronics on patrol
2) The car hasn't ever actually exhibited any signs of overheating other than the gauge going up, never actually boiled and blew steam all over the place
3) The MS ECT shows a very jumpy and spike ridden signal, I should probably replace the temp sender before I do anything else (sometimes, especially under full throttle runs, the temp shows spikes of only a split second duration where the temp shoots from 230 up to 300 ish and right back down again. And it's generally very wiggly all the time anyhow)

tryingbe 09-10-2007 02:32 PM

You know, if I don't have any problem with electronic fan conversion in 110 degree weather, nobody else should.

JohnMc, do you have the splash guard installed at the bottom of your car?

McLovin 09-10-2007 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tryingbe (Post 1398422)

What's the difference between the two?

They both say Hayden Fan Control Kit, but one's $40 and one's $24.

JohnMc 09-10-2007 02:41 PM

Yep, has a splash guard. I recently replaced the thermostat and the original radiator with a 3-row with little improvement. The fan is a two-speed 940 fan, low speed hooked up to a combination of either the A/C high pressure switch (piggy backed onto the existing pusher fan control circuit) and/or Megasquirt fan control, on at 210 and off at 190. The high speed is hooked up to the switch on the rad, comes on around 225 degrees.

A couple of other possibilities (in addition to the gauge/sender issues I mentioned above):
1) Perhaps I should remove the OEM pusher fan in front of the radiator, might just block more air than it does any good with the current setup. Currently, it works in conjunction with the 940 fan.
2) My cheap eBay NPR was somewhat grotty, although I cleaned it up it's possible it isn't allowing as much air through as a cleaner, newer NPR might.

But again, driving it hard on a hot day isn't an issue, and using the A/C on a hot day isn't either. It's just the combination of the two (sustained periods of on-boost driving on the highway with the a/c blowing) that sends the needle up. And again, the needle going up is the only sign of trouble, and I have reasons to doubt it. Never had issues with the mechanical fan, but that was a while and quite a few mods ago.

I wired mine up to permanent 12V as well, and the high temp switch on the rad works well, usually cycling the fan on and off a time or two on cool down. i can only imagine that's good for the underhood environment to get that mani/turbo heat out of there instead of just letting it all bake.

McLovin 09-10-2007 11:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnMc (Post 1398491)
Yep, has a splash guard. I recently replaced the thermostat and the original radiator with a 3-row with little improvement. The fan is a two-speed 940 fan, low speed hooked up to a combination of either the A/C high pressure switch (piggy backed onto the existing pusher fan control circuit) and/or Megasquirt fan control, on at 210 and off at 190. The high speed is hooked up to the switch on the rad, comes on around 225 degrees.

A couple of other possibilities (in addition to the gauge/sender issues I mentioned above):
1) Perhaps I should remove the OEM pusher fan in front of the radiator, might just block more air than it does any good with the current setup. Currently, it works in conjunction with the 940 fan.
2) My cheap eBay NPR was somewhat grotty, although I cleaned it up it's possible it isn't allowing as much air through as a cleaner, newer NPR might.

But again, driving it hard on a hot day isn't an issue, and using the A/C on a hot day isn't either. It's just the combination of the two (sustained periods of on-boost driving on the highway with the a/c blowing) that sends the needle up. And again, the needle going up is the only sign of trouble, and I have reasons to doubt it. Never had issues with the mechanical fan, but that was a while and quite a few mods ago.

I wired mine up to permanent 12V as well, and the high temp switch on the rad works well, usually cycling the fan on and off a time or two on cool down. i can only imagine that's good for the underhood environment to get that mani/turbo heat out of there instead of just letting it all bake.

Does it stop rising? As in level off anywhere? I haven't had a fan in my car for about a month and I just turn on the heat when i'm sitting or driving through town. My car will sit just below the redline on the temp gauge and not blow steam or anything of the sort.

Crazychopstick 09-11-2007 12:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fiend (Post 1394257)
Correct. As long as there is a fuse from the power supply, if anything surges that fuse will blow and it will be impossible for any other wire to spark and cause a fire because they will all be dead wires. You don't really need a fuse but its insanely stupid not to have one. Just remember, any wire that goes from power supply (+) to anything needs a fuse as physically close as possible to the origin of the (+) source.

So I guess I'm off to get an inline from Radioshack. I saw a 30amp one with a waterproof seal, should that be sufficient?

Jordan 09-11-2007 03:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crazychopstick (Post 1399338)
So I guess I'm off to get an inline from Radioshack. I saw a 30amp one with a waterproof seal, should that be sufficient?

Thats exactly what I have. I even got it at RadioShack.

tryingbe 09-13-2007 06:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by McLovin (Post 1398484)
What's the difference between the two?

They both say Hayden Fan Control Kit, but one's $40 and one's $24.

The more expensive one is adjustable, you can get the fan turn on at your prefer setting.

The other one is preset at 185, probably be fine for most people.

Also, you want to use at least a MAXI fuse. You do NOT want to use regular 30 amp fuse on a fan, it's going to melt that fuse slowly.

30amp maxi fuse works fine for me.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:E...ent_sizes.jpeg

brucepick 09-26-2007 03:28 PM

I run low speed off a relay that's tripped by the brake light circuit.
That's from a tip from mapleafer of this board.
Uses a 240 dome light relay along with the main fan relay to give some delay to both the on and off functions to reduce on/off cycling.
Works very nicely.

However I have no a/c and no boost. With those heat-generators running you'd best have a good temp sensor functioning as well.

Be sure you have the oem splash pan, between radiator and front of block.

And be sure you have the scoop that picks up air from the three holes in center of oem air dam, sending that air up to the radiator. Makes a nice improvement in cooling when car is rolling.


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