can I just use the radiator sensor?
 

Can I just get a 93 240 radiator with the sensor in the radiator and use that to run my electric fan? I think somewhere in this thread there is a link the a three prong sensor that would work. Has anyone done it this way?

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I actually have my wagon running with just the sensor in the radiator. The 7/9 Regina cars were run that way from the factory, with a 92/82 or 92/87 switch, I forget which. Works okay but the fan does tend to run quite a bit, even on the highway, since it's not seeing the cooler temps coming out of the radiator at the bottom.

Would a sensor with a different temperature rating fix that?

I'm assuming you have it on your Turbo car.... Did you notice a difference compared to the clutch fan? There seems to be mixed reviews.

The temperature sensor should ideally be placed as low in the coolant system as possible.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=270950

This may have been answered already but I've got a 92+ fan and relay setup in my '91 and a 93 ECU. The ECU has E-Fan control - how do I wire the high/low ground wires to the ECU? Are the wires already there on the harness or are they not pinned on a '91 harness? Couldn't find a good image of which pins on the ECU I need to tap in to either.

I miss you handey

I always put in upper
I'd rather the hottest coolant trigger the fan
And run an extra switch for interior when running ac

Based upon this wiring diagram, and looking at first page of this wiring diagram, its just a ground the ECU uses to trigger fan.

Diagram shows two different wiring colors...as noted, "some models."

1993-245 AC does not work, so I put a jumper on plug for AC's high-pressure switch. AC fan works when AC-switch is toggled to AC. This is not a good fan for cooling the radiator...just something for in-town driving to allow a gentle breeze for hot summer days.

So, I installed a radiator-fan from a 1985 GM A-Body on the other side; I have a radiator from a turbo Volvo, so I'm using its radiator-temp switch to cycle fan.

Quick question chaps! I normally use aftermarket fan controllers and arm them via a relay. See...

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpo...7&postcount=56

On this 600 dollar 745 I'm running (Rex Regina until MS is installed), I don't feel like digging around under the dash for a switched power source to run the relay (that arms the circut). Soooooo, I'm looking for a switched source under the hood. The exciter actually works but might there be any others that I'm not thinking of?

You can tap the sunroof at fuse 20 ... I think it's fuse 20. It's a 30-amp fuse anyway. It's on the far right of the fuse panel anyway.

Where is that fuse panel again? In every700 I've had, it's at the front of the center console. AM I missing something?

Not a bad option otherwise, save of the fact that my sunroof is manual. :oops:

It's all good peeps. Went ahead and tapped the exicter wire. Now the fan only runs when he car is actually running.

And NO DIGGING AROUND INSIDE THE CAR! :)

That's the way I did it....I use a ground circuit thru radiator sensor, and this ground trips the relay. Relay is wired hot from the battery with a 20 amp circuit breaker on it, so fan will sometimes run when engine is turned off.

Before I installed the three core radiator, I had it cleaned. gsellstr says his fan runs on highway driving, but I'm not aware of mine doing this.

I have no idea where my radiator came from. Someone from Arizona stuck it in a 1984 NA, which I use to drive, and then I stuck it in a 1993-245. It flows good.

Just get a set up from Mishimoto, run it off your coil, plenty of places to wire the coolant sensor, prob the best money I have spent.

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I've got an 89 GLE and want to do an E-fan conversion. I've got to assemble the engine and install it. While prepping, I am seeing that the radiator is 18" wide and obviously more "square" than the 24" version.

I wasn't set on doing the e-fan mod, but I plan to buy a new radiator just for reliability. Since I'm buying one anyway, what size should I get to use the stock Volvo e-fan? I think I may have an ECU from the year that had e-fans stock.

The stock e-fan comes with the 24" radiator at least on 940. It can be fitted to the 18" as well, but you have to fit it in the viscous fan housing and the clearence to the waterpump on turbo models is <0,5" because of the intercooler. The wider radiator sits further in the front, you can use the original e-fan housing and you have far greater clearence to the waterpump.
I'm running the stock e-fan with the 18" radiator, controlled by the ecu. I also added a switch for control, since the ECU starts the fan a bit late IMO.

Awesome info! Let me read it back and see if this is right...

18" rad with e-fan has less clearance than the 24" with e-fan between fan and water pump

Is the difference in the radiator design or the chassis/mounting brackets?

Looking at this set of mounting brackets, it has a 3rd unused slot for the lower rubber cushion.

18" rad with e-fan has less clearance than the 24" with e-fan between fan and water pump -> If you put an e-fan on a non-AC turbo car and compare it to a AC turbo car, yes. Swapping to a AC model radiator, intercooler and pipes as well woud give more clearance.

The radiator thickness seems to be about the same, but there's difference in the brackets: NA non-AC, NA AC and turbos with AC use short brackets for the radiator, while non-AC turbos use long brackets (for both the IC and radiator). I'm not sure if the short turbo rad brackets are the same as the NA ones since I haven't had a turbo car with AC. Pictures of older 740s seem to indicate there might be some differences in the lock plates as well.

Here's a couple of pics from do88s site to demonstrate the difference:
https://www.do88.fi/bilder/artiklar/...g?m=1349422138 vs https://www.do88.fi/bilder/artiklar/...g?m=1349422137

I was just thinking about it - Did the 960s have Oil coolers in the same spot that 740Ts did? I wonder if a wider radiator would interfere with mounting the 740 turbo oil cooler. I didn't see any mention of it in this thread.

I have been using the Derale Pulse Width Modulation fan controller for over a year now on my daily 245. I highly recommend it. only issue was it came with the old style probe that you push through the fins in your rad, but after a phone call they overnighted me the updated stick-on version. Believe me, I was concerned. But the thing works great and my temps stay within 5-10* on my autometer gauge. The charging system loves the soft fan starts that roll in from 0% all the way up

I went to buy one of the thread-in sensors, and found out that my link was long dead. I think all the links in the thread are dead.

So... here is the thread size M22 x 1.5

And here are 4 part numbers and manufacturers.
BECK/ARNLEY 2011612
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS TS280
FOUR SEASONS 20036
WVE 1S4488

Basically any of the sensors that fit an 85-91 VW Eurovan will thread into the Nissens radiator. Some of them have different on/off points. I'm liking the Beck/Arnley and WVE for the low temps.

Gonna run a one speed wonder, eh?

Not at all.

These switches all have a high and low switch. They're shared ground 3-pin switches.

I got a 940 shroud, fan, and controller. If I didn't have one, some heavy-duty relays wired up so the high-speed switch disconnects the low-speed circuit would work too.

You would need a 5-pin relay with NC and NO outputs 87 and 87a. Run power to actuate the low-speed fan relay on the NC pin 87a, then 87 goes to the high-speed circuit until the high-temp switch opens. I should draw a diagram.