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84B23F 06-23-2008 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by totaled108 (Post 1858520)
gone back to the stock clutch fan. I didn't really have any issues with the E-fan, I just like the fact that the clutch fan will ALWAYS be moving air over the motor

My driving is about 98% truckin (rural roadways, highways), and 2% stop/go city traffic....which all means there is a constant air supply flowing past radiator...which means the temperature indicator is rock solid in the middle about 99.9% of the time.

If I had to deal with stop/go traffic, I would use clutch fan since E-Fan would be running most all of the time in warmer weather...in stop/go traffic.

Freq 07-24-2008 11:16 PM

I got an 850 fan and relays from a yard today ($10 :-D) and I'm having some trouble with how it should be wired. So far I've gotten the idea that it can't control the high and low speeds with one relay? Or do I need 2 thermo switches and 1 relay? I rarely go off the freeway so I'm not 100% worried about getting both setup, but I'd rather do it properly.

Edit: I don't use my AC, and I'm not sure if it even works, so I'm fine if I remove the AC pusher?

Edit 2: I can't upload pictures because I'm not home ATM, but the two relays I grabbed off the fan are...
One is 5 pronged (2, 2, 1), labeled 2 1 (out), 2 1 (in), 30.
The other is a 4 prong. There doesn't seem to be a diagram like the other one, but it's labed
3 545 803
($) 89 99 83
12V 40A 8 92
I'm assuming 8 92 would be the production date? These were both wired to the fan when I pulled it. I think I need to use the 5 prong?

84B23F 07-25-2008 03:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Freq (Post 1914666)
So far I've gotten the idea that it can't control the high and low speeds with one relay?

The Bosch Relay Unraveled


I could.....but I have no idea how Volvo wired up theres....I need a schematic to evaluate.

OldSchoolEuro 08-02-2008 08:32 PM

I dont know if I have this hooked up right or not but I have that 940 relay and I was told (since I have no AC) is to only use the high speed wire for the fan to turn on. But I did this and the fan won't turn on till the temp gauge nears the red! It does turn on if I only use the low speed tho. Thoughts?

84B23F 08-02-2008 10:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldSchoolEuro (Post 1928986)
Thoughts?

Schematic????

Off hand, I'd say your temp sensor is off...but I need a schematic to understand circuit.

OldSchoolEuro 08-03-2008 02:14 AM

Here's exactly how mine is hooked up except that I do not have AC and I am having the high speed wire (yellow/brown) and ground hooked up to the temp sender.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...2/c70c43d2.jpg

OldSchoolEuro 08-03-2008 03:58 AM

And I have a Nissens 3 Row Radiator with a push in thermostat. I have no idea what the temp rating is but I did order it from FCP. It is the only one they had.

84B23F 08-03-2008 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldSchoolEuro (Post 1929531)
Nissens 3 Row Radiator with a push in thermostat

Just a quick overview...then I'll get to the meat to your situation...

Schematic shows the ECU controls the show....and it gets it sensor info (not shown) from some type of temp sensor.

Hence,

1. Does ECU get its info from

(a) block temp sensor,

(b) ECU temp sensor, or

(c) radiator temp sensor (like mine...1984 244 modified).

So....if one is using a different ECU than shown in the schematic....don't expect it to work right...ECU must have two fan leads to fire up that relay.

===================END===========

Quote:

Nissens 3 Row Radiator with a push in thermostat
There are two type of temp sensors that could be used in radiator:

A. On-Off Switch

B. Analog resistance change with temperature.

In my 1984 244, I use an On-Off Radiator Temp Switch with a Bosch Relay.

I would disconnect wires to radiator temp sensor when engine cold, put an ohmmeter on those sensor's connectors (I assume)...start motor up, and watch ohmmeter....if resistance changes while motor gets warm, you need to find a different radiator temp sensor....on/off sensor.

On mine, to "fire up" the relay, I run ground circuit thru the radiator temp sensor...this way a larger current is not going thru radiator temp sensor...last longer...just enough current to make relay go.

OldSchoolEuro 08-03-2008 12:51 PM

Okay so I do need that ECU if I am going to use both wires. Well right now I have it hooked up as high speed wire and ground to that push in thermostat switch. Won't turn on till it gets 75 percent to the hot zone. I am going to probably run a switch inside my car to manually turn the fan on during traffic.

84B23F 08-03-2008 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldSchoolEuro (Post 1929815)
push in thermostat switch.

Show me this device....FCP...where?

84B23F 08-03-2008 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldSchoolEuro (Post 1929815)
Won't turn on till it gets 75 percent to the hot zone

I use an infrared temperature gun, like this, and shoot it at the thermostat housing, and top part of radiator near top hose...to verify.

My radiator temp sensor has a low set point, somewhere around 190 degrees, it switches "on." I wish set point was higher, since fan tends to cycle more in city traffic.

Unless you have verified your analog temp gauge inside of vehicle, I would assume nothing.

On GM vehicles, I don't think the fan comes on until like 225 degrees F, or so....its too high for my needs....this would pressurize your radiator system at that temp....and I don't like the thought of a freeze plug being persuaded to pop out...

I have no idea what Volvo specs are....was theirs setup to turn fan on at higher temps, like GM?

Freq 08-03-2008 08:49 PM

The kit I bought (temp sensor + wiring kit) turns on at 165F, which is roughly 2/3 on the temp. gauge. The fan usually turns on after I turn the car off, too. Once the fan kicks on doing about 65mph the gauge drops to 1/4.

OldSchoolEuro 08-03-2008 09:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 84B23F (Post 1929853)
Show me this device....FCP...where?

Here.

http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exe...ategory_id/195

84B23F 08-03-2008 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Freq (Post 1930381)
(temp sensor + wiring kit) turns on at 165F, which is roughly 2/3 on the temp. gauge

Seems quite low....unless you are running 160F thermostat....stock is around 197F...for a 1984 244...2.3 L...check specs in back of owner's manual.....that's about mid-way on temp gauge.

Fuel economy wise, and emission wise, I would suspect not being upto temperature would affect these two.

84B23F 08-03-2008 09:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldSchoolEuro (Post 1930427)

It says "Fan Switch," which should denote On/OFF at some temperature....but what temperature is the question.

Without infrared temperature gun, one would not know....I assume your thermostat is good, and not stuck in some position.

OldSchoolEuro 08-03-2008 09:34 PM

My thermostat is brand new. Yeah I have no idea what temp rating it is. I am thinking of wiring up a switch inside the car to turn on the fan just in case it doesnt. How would one go on and do that with my setup?

84B23F 08-03-2008 10:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldSchoolEuro (Post 1930457)
How would one go on and do that with my setup?

Assuming the fan is a two speed motor, which it appears to be the case.

Circuit #22 - When engaged (ECU grounded), this engages fan, but prevents circuit #7 from engaging even if Circuit #7's is grounded at ECU.

Circuit #7 - When engaged (ECU grounded), the other Ciruit #22 will have an open at ECU, which feeds the hot juice to Circuit #7's relay.

In essence, only one side works at a time via ECU grounding....so, if your radiator's temp sensor is using the grounding principle on this relay, you can only do one relay (fan speed) at a time. Throwing two grounds at it, would only invoke Circuit #22.

So, your ground switch in interior needs to attach to Circuit # 22, and your radiator's temp sensor should be working on a grounding basis, and would hook to Circuit #7....

Are you using ground to activate relay...and running a hot link as shown in picture?

You can test this out, before you install your switch...simple grounds from battery...two of them, and touch circuit #7 first, then circuit #22. Circuit #22 over-rides circuit #7, as I read the schematic.

PS: This setup allows for high speed fan setup when you flip the switch....reverse wires for low speed fan when you switch it manually...your choice.

OldSchoolEuro 08-03-2008 11:20 PM

Yeah well there are three wires coming from the fan motor itself. (yeah its a 940 fan). Green, Red and Black wires. Green and Red wires go to the relay mentioned above. Black goes to a ground. Then there is the red wire that comes from the relay and goes to the battery with a inline use. Then there are two smaller wires that come from the relay. Yellow/Brown and Green/Orange. I took the green/orange wire out and just had the yellow/brown wire connected to the fan switch in the radiator. The other spade terminal on the fan switch is grounded. Thats how my setup is. I do NOT have the ECU that controls the e fan btw.

So I can only turn on the fan via the switch inside the car only on one speed?

84B23F 08-03-2008 11:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldSchoolEuro (Post 1930724)
Yellow/Brown and Green/Orange. I took the green/orange wire out and just had the yellow/brown wire connected to the fan switch in the radiator. The other spade terminal on the fan switch is grounded. ....So I can only turn on the fan via the switch inside the car only on one speed?

It could be turned on on either speed, inside of vehicle, with a three-way switch, rocker type switch (On_1, Off, On_2)....Circuit #22 over-rides circuit #7, so when Circuit #22 is engaged, it should be the AC circuit, high fan speed.

The grounding on other spade terminal (Circuit #7) is a waste...fan should be running via C1-GRN wire...or internal relay has shot craps.

OldSchoolEuro 08-04-2008 12:17 AM

Oh yeah I forgot to mention I dont have AC in my 240. That's why theres a ground.

84B23F 08-04-2008 12:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldSchoolEuro (Post 1930879)
Oh yeah I forgot to mention I dont have AC in my 240. That's why theres a ground.

That's why its backwards......its not needed...

Experiment:

1. Disconnect Spade Terminals at Relay Box (#22 & #7)

2. Get a grounded wire and touch each...what happens?

3. Get two grounded wires, and touch both...what happens?

Those terminals are normally activated via Ground Circuit via ECU...not needed now, if your Temp Sensor is grounded when switched on.

OldSchoolEuro 08-04-2008 12:47 AM

Okay so I dont even need that ground wire. Does the ignition need to be turned on when I do these experiments?

84B23F 08-04-2008 01:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldSchoolEuro (Post 1930961)
Does the ignition need to be turned on when I do these experiments?

As based upon that schematic picture above, the Relay is wired Hot all the time....is this correct for your setup? Or did you put the Hot lead on a switched hot?

Disconnect wires 7 & 22.......at Relay....then ground a wire to battery ground (or frame), and touch the other end of this ground wire to Relay terminal 7 first, and then to relay terminal 22; the fan should run each time...with terminal 22 putting fan in high speed....is this the way it works on your setup now when this test is performed?

OldSchoolEuro 08-04-2008 01:14 AM

Yeah the relay has a red wire running straight into a inline fuse (40amp) to the battery so yeah it is wired hot all the time. So just ground each connection (7 and 22) and the fan should run each time i ground them?

shellshock 08-04-2008 03:15 AM

Interesting topic

Now for my question. Since I will be using the turbo computers from my 1995 940t in my 1992 240, could I just rip the wires that run from the ECU to Efan relay from the 940? I could then just run those same wires on my 240 and plug one end up to the appropriate pin on the ecu and the other end on the relay. Pretty much the exact same setup as stock on my 940...

Eh?


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