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Maybe this is here somewhere, but I didn't see it.
I really want to do this as I HATE how loud my engine is at idle or at any RPM for that matter. Can someone who's done this type up a shopping list? Basically EVERYTHING I would need to d it? I'll probably find an e-fan from a car at the JY. |
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Questions questiosn and more questions
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I do not know if this thread is dead or still alive but I will take a chance and ask my question I am also thinking of biting the bullet :drool: and putting an e fan on my 1990 240 First most imp question :???: How to see if the junker fan is good (apart from the looks of it)? I have few questions about this diagram 1. Green from c1 - Does it power the high speed of the fan or the Red from C2 2. Since I have a 240 so signal for high speed will come from sensor mounted on rediator (This sensor came stock with Nissens ,hopefully it should work) So does the Grn/org from B1 and Yel/Brn from B2 go to this Rad mounted sensor 3. So how do we power the low speed . ? I would like to power it Via a manual switch so that I am able to increase the cooling effeciency of AC when moving at slow speed.I hope this will not cause any issues for the engine cooling as it will be controlled via the temp sensor) Will it be through this relay shown in diagram or I will need a separate relay controlled by a manual switch at dash. If I am thinking correctly then this means that one of out put from either C1 or C2 does not connect anywhere. Is that correct. Regards Gopesh |
1. Green is low speed, red is high.
2. It depends if you want the the switch to activate low speed or high speed. GRN/ORG activates low speed, YEL/BRN activates high. On my car low speed is activated by the thermo switch at the radiator, high speed is activated by the switch in the dash as a backup. Make sure you verify the temp rating of the switch that came with your Nissens radiator. It should be stamped on the side of the switch in degrees C. 3. Both low speed and high speed are powered at all times by "fusible link" through the relay. I can't explain the whole diagram in words. It would be best to get assistance from someone with more electrical experience. All the symbols an wires are self explanatory. Good luck |
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This is what I was thinking for some wiring, but I got a feeling that the one Kyle posted on the first page of this thread will indeed work fine. I think I'm going to give his a try this evening. If not, I'll use the one below.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/attach...1&d=1179770502 The idea of this one is to use the first relay to arm the system. I just never liked the idea of taking power for the fan directly from the fuse panel. Of course, Kyles diagram doesn't either. ;-) |
For the record, the above diagram works perfectly. :nod:
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More pertinent to my application, if there is no central position on the relay, does that mean that I will need two sensors and two separate relays to have "OFF" "LOW" and "HIGH" settings, or I guess my real question is....is"OFF" really needed? |
Be brave and give $110 to http://www.dccontrol.com/ for their FK-35 e-fan controller.
This little box of tricks contains everything you need bar the fan itself. All wiring, mounting screws, temp sensor, connectors etc are included. It's a variable speed controller and the set temp is adjustable via jumpers. It also includes inputs for A/C and permanent feed. I have one fitted to my 760 V6 and it works great. Stuck in a motorway tailback in 80* ambient temps it kept the coolant temp constant and was barely noticeable in operation due to it gradually building up speed as neccessary. It's wired to the high speed side of a 960's fan, with the slow speed side controlled by a switch on the dash to give me an emergency back-up. Have a look at their site - it includes all info neccessary about the controller and the instructions to fit it. I can't reccomend it enough. |
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Amen to that! somethings at yards just cost $free.99 Mine wanted $8 for a foglight relay |
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Additionally, the easy way to run and control your fans is just to get one of these: http://static.summitracing.com/globa.../flx-31165.jpg It also has the two stage (variable speed) control you are after. I decided a long time ago that hacking the OE fan stuff sucks. Here is my fan. http://static.summitracing.com/globa...er-16926_w.jpg |
Alrighty, so I yanked a Lebaron fan today at the jy. In good order. Got it for $15.
What all should I need other than this? I also picked up a little relay that I found in a Saab 900S there. It's called a cooling fan timing relay. I figured it might be useful. Anyone know anything about it? I'll get a pic here in a bit if need be. |
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Thanks, I think I'm less confused! Edit: ..and it can also be wired as a Switched power source ? |
Saab also have 2-pole switch, 87 and 92 C, suitable for two speed fan.
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Any idea what the minimum CFM capability should be?
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Can someone please post some pictures or descriptions of what relays they're using. I'm just not getting that part.
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Check ebay ..."VolvoFan Relay", or post in this forum in 'Wanted' 940/850 efan relay if you want to use Volvo parts.
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I did an electric fan swap from a 940 into my 1990 740 GLE 16V, using the big radiator, and the stock Volvo relay. This is a very easy swap. The relay has two wires coming out of the middle which are grounds used by the 940 ecu to turn the fan on, one at high speed and one at low speed. I hooked these wires to temp sensors, one in the radiator and one in the lower radiator hose, like a 240 turbo. The low speed wire is on the lower radiator hose. On each sensor, i took the other connector and sent it to ground. Main power wired to the battery+, Done! Now the fan turns on if either sensor reaches it's temp setting and completes the ground circuit.
Much quieter car now- and it runs cooler with the big radiator. Anybody with an engine driven fan should do this swap. Also put a late 940 intercooler in at the same time. Wonder why? |
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The 940 relay has power in marked"30" on the relay- this uses a large red power wire in. The output has two poles ,also for power wires. The control part of the relay has two grounds. The relay has two different power paths,each with a different resistance built in, thus one powers the fan with more current at high speed, and the other powers with less current at low speed.
So, essentially there are two relays built into one,plus a resistance in line to control current flow. The easiest way to do this is to use a 940 or 850 fan relay and harness and just use the grounds to control the relay thru the temp sensors, like I did. (Thanks to 740ATL for suggesting this setup to me). If you have no Volvo relay, you could duplicate this setup with some simple relays and a couple of resistors with different resistance specs. Add a fusible link rated at 30 amps to the power wire to prevent pyrotechnics! |
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Good to know the resistance is in the fan wires, not the relay. Substituting another set of relays would work just fine. Another reason this is so easy. I had a donor 940 and just used the relay and harness when I moved the fan and radiator over. Easily done and a perfect fit w/o mods. Mikey did a similar setup with an aftermarket fan on the cover car and just used a simple relay and radiator temp sensor for a 1-speed fan.
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Put a 9xx LH 2.4 ECU in your car. It has efan control built in.
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Just to add to this thread so I can find it later, lol - on my Volvo relay there were two wires that could be grounded out for hi or lo fan speed, coming right off the relay:
Blue/Black - lo speed White/Black - hi speed I used the Saab switch (87/92) in the lower rad hose. Works nice so far. |
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