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Rebuilt head 10k miles ago, valve adjustment?

DavePolyakov

Member
Joined
Aug 3, 2020
Location
Shoreline, WA
Sorry for another valve adjustment post. PO rebuilt the head 10k ago on my 1990 b230ft. I'm installing the IPD turbo cam. I shouldn't need to adjust the valves right? I don't have a feeler gauge or a shim kit. It's probably good to go though correct?
 
PO rebuilt the head or a shop did?
Some shops run really thin valve seat widths that will "pound in" (quote from an actual machine shop). This makes the valves seal up well initially, but can cause valve seat and valve face wear issues, which can require lash adjustments until everything finds a happy medium. Not my preferred method, but it's commonly done.
 
It was a shop. I can invest in a feeler gauge and check after the install of the new cam, but if I need to acquire valve shims should I go to a Volvo dealership? IPD doesn't have a rent kit anymore?
 
If you're changing the cam, regardless of brand of cam, cam choice, head condition, etc, it's smart to at the very least check the clearances to make sure nothing is being held open.
 
The last IPD turbo cam I installed. I had to change all eight shims to get the proper clearances. By the bent type of feeler gauges. They fit easier and make it easier to check the clearance.
 
It was a shop. I can invest in a feeler gauge and check after the install of the new cam, but if I need to acquire valve shims should I go to a Volvo dealership? IPD doesn't have a rent kit anymore?

Is there a volvo, fiat or alpha (?) mechanic in your area? Most independent mechanics will sell you the shims you need.

I use a 3.5mm shim to check lash on new builds, and then order the needed shims.
 
Do yourself a favor and get some Go-No-Go feeler gauges. Makes it so much easier.

Lisle 68150 Go-No-Go Feeler Gauge - $12 on amazon.
 
On the same listing, you can select "Valve feeler gauge" in which they are at an angle. Lisle 68050. These will be easier to use right? And they're half the price.
Do yourself a favor and get some Go-No-Go feeler gauges. Makes it so much easier.

Lisle 68150 Go-No-Go Feeler Gauge - $12 on amazon.
 
Yes, I believe there are I just haven't contacted them before. Does anyone in the Seattle area have any specific shops to recommend?
Is there a volvo, fiat or alpha (?) mechanic in your area? Most independent mechanics will sell you the shims you need.

I use a 3.5mm shim to check lash on new builds, and then order the needed shims.
 
On the same listing, you can select "Valve feeler gauge" in which they are at an angle. Lisle 68050. These will be easier to use right? And they're half the price.

Those will work too. The Go-No-Go versions have a step in the feeler that is two sizes up. It makes it easier to figure out what the clearance is to me. I take the feelers out of the holder, so the angle doesn't make a difference to me.

I also needed a micrometer to measure the shims.

I had to go to ebay to find some of the shims I needed in December. IPD was out of stock.
 
How much are you paying for shims from ebay? Some of the prices I'm seeing are ridiculous.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2505460.m570.l1313&_nkw=volvo+valve+shim&_sacat=0

I keep a full complement of shims in stock and I'd even rent out the kit with tools but the deposit I'd need is steep. I charge $5/shim so just the cost of the shims in the kit is $850.

ShimKit&Tools.jpg
 
I bought a lot of stock on shims when FCP had them on clearance a while back. About 3/4 of my kit is good used, the rest is new, but yeah, it sure as hell ain't a cheap think to build.
 
So I guess the most sensible course of action is to remove the old cam, install a new cam, measure valves with feeler gauge, then buy individual shims from IPD and/or eBay availability permitting. If I don't mind the noise should I really just remove the hushers? If they're in good shape why not leave them in?
 
measure the new cam without the old hushers,
measure the shims and see if or how many you can swap around

it's really best to have the kit or a bunch of different sized shims on hand when
doing this, as the chances measuring once and ordering the right shims is slim

if you want to use new hushers install them after all the clearances are correct
 
If I don't mind the noise should I really just remove the hushers? If they're in good shape why not leave them in?

You can definitely use hushers, you just have to remove them to check the lash. If you check lash with new hushers installed, you're going to have a confusing day.
 
I avoid having to use the tool by measuring all the clearances and then removing the camshaft; then I replace shims as needed and reinstall the camshaft.
 
What's reasonable guidance for a machine shop "tipping the valves" versus changing shims? Is up to ~8 thou (2 shim sizes) OK?
 
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