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Quin's Wagon

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Sweet wagon dude, looks like a fun driver. In my last 240 I replaced the whole brake system and ran porterfield pads at first then switched to the stock blue box pads. Just upgrading pads makes a pretty significant difference
 
Why not go back to a 19t?

As mentioned in the text, Volvo pads are great. They disappeared kind of fast once we got to turbo levels of power on the race car, but they didn’t fade! On the street they should be totally fine unless you’re an animal and driving down a mountain.
 
but harald is right, now it needs a lot of little stuff to make me enjoy it. truetrac is already purchased, new tires and wheels in progress right now, better seats waiting to be put in. if anyone wants to fax me like 200 pounds of knockoff dynamat, that would be great.

I can't wait to watch you install knockoff dynamat. That will be great.
 
i'm a little nervous that these are too big to fit easily. regretting going 205/55 instead of 205/50.

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If they're 15" or 16", they're fine, but I don't like cheap cheap tires due to their lack of performance in wet/wintery weather. I'm sure they'll be better than whatever you already have though and it'll be easier for you to slide on them and not worry about burning them up... :)
 
so, they almost fit. i think on full compression the fronts touch the spring perch. i did not try to drive with them on so i'm unsure about turning clearance.

this also makes me wish i had some adjustability in the rear (or anywhere). i think it would look a little better to me with the rear picked up slightly, and it would solve some of my clearance issue. is it finally time for cheapo homemade coilovers?

but i guess i get to cut the fenders either way.

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here's a bad picture i took to demonstrate how close they are to the fender lip in the back. if i stand on the bumper, the fender rests on the tire.

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also yes, i realize the wheels are corroded and gross. they're 80% better than they were before i sanded them some. i would love to refinish them in the spring, but i'm running out of dry road time.
 
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w00! The spring perch doesn’t change location to the tire up front. ;-)

Regarding the rear, get out two sledge hammers. Start by hammering the lips up a bit to start the folding process, then wrap your second hammer in a towel and put it on the outside of the fender. Use your other mallet to smash the lip up to the outside of the fender. Also make sure you clean the area of dirt buildup first, otherwise you’ll be smashing dirt. This will also make this area even more prone to trapping dirt in the future but I think it’s a better situation than just cutting the fender lip. You will break the paint where it’s folding over, but, you can’t have your cake and eat it too. Then a fender roller at some point can get you more room after that.

Don’t worry about what the wheels look like up close. Rock’m!
 
Do you have any adjustable panhard rod on the rear? If there's more clearance on the passenger side (I bet there is), you could shift the axle to the passenger side and gain some clearance.

For cleaning up those wheels a spray on "mag wheel cleaner" works well. Since those wheels don't have the clear coat on them anymore, you can use a gnarly wheel cleaner without feeling bad.
 
I think it?s a better situation than just cutting the fender lip.

i have zero experience with this aspect of turbobricking and will basically do whatever you tell me to do here, but i would like to know why folding the whole lip up is better than cutting it off and folding the remainder.

Do you have any adjustable panhard rod on the rear? If there's more clearance on the passenger side (I bet there is), you could shift the axle to the passenger side and gain some clearance.

For cleaning up those wheels a spray on "mag wheel cleaner" works well. Since those wheels don't have the clear coat on them anymore, you can use a gnarly wheel cleaner without feeling bad.

i do not have an adjustable panhard bar. today i have tracked down a stock one and a nice man to make it adjustable for me.

the wheels are actually pretty clean (of dirt) at this point, anything left on them is just corrosion. i sanded off about 60% of the corrosion and then became irritable and stopped. next year i'll probably have them blasted clean and start fresh.
 
The mag wheel cleaner will help with corrosion and making them look pretty, but you’ll want to actually polish them and seal them afterwards. It’s basically oven cleaner that eats off the oxide layer on the aluminum.

On the panhard rod, are you going with a 3/4” bolt and some nuts or a proper turnbuckle?
 
On the panhard rod, are you going with a 3/4? bolt and some nuts or a proper turnbuckle?

i didn't know to ask, and it's being done so cheaply that i don't hugely care (or want to pester). but i'm guessing it's probably being done "right."
 
If you put either type of adjuster on the axle end, instead of the chassis end like IPD, it’s pretty easy to adjust as long as you don’t have poly bushings on the chassis side.
 
i have zero experience with this aspect of turbobricking and will basically do whatever you tell me to do here, but i would like to know why folding the whole lip up is better than cutting it off and folding the remainder.
I don?t think it really matters all that much, really. I didn?t realize you were going to flatten it after cutting. On one hand, it is easier to fold if you?ve cut them first. On the other hand, it?s a stronger piece with less bare material to rust(unless you prep and paint it after cutting) if you fold it without cutting. It?s not easy to do, either, but the sandwich method helps a lot.
 
i ordered adjustable rear perches, and the panhard bar will have a turnbuckle. hopefully within the next couple of weeks i'll have a chance to have a nice time with some hammers, and get the perches in, and at least have my car on those wheels for a few weeks before it snows.

i had my boss weld the pawl in a g80 about a hundred years ago. i knew it was getting a little worn out, but now i know exactly how worn out. increasingly anxious to have a truetrac in it.

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