Lord_Athlon
300+ Clurb
- Joined
- May 20, 2003
- Location
- Eau Claire, WI.
Anyone wanna buy a redbox apc kit?
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so the knock sensor sends it's pig tail to the original, then to the computer and to a light...so i wouldn't need the knocksense component, correct?
yeah, i would just run the leads to the APC and the light.
who's borris?
Anyone wanna buy a redbox apc kit?
He designed and sells/makes the knocksense unit which is for driving a knock-light off the stock knock sensor. It's redundant if you have an APC installed, since the APC has this feature built in.
It's in forsale
Not if the wiring is still shielded properly (although if it weren't it would *probably* still work). If I were to go that route, I'd buy a knocksense harness from Borris- otherwise you'd have to either find the correct connectors or permanently cut into your stock EZK harness:
http://www.viatrack.ca/
I just used an old Volvo exhaust stud, nut, and washer in place of the stock bolt to piggy back a second sensor.
I think Lord_Athlon's talking about his red box APC- it's the same as the black box, but adjusted for more boost.
The knocksense guy is "Boris740" on here.
i just don't really wanna mod one myself...i'd rather just have a proper red box, so yeah, i'm interested.
I can understand that. I got a $450 speeding ticket while adjusting mine I could have had that NOS volvo pneumatic suspension in for sale
With an APC, you do not need knock sense. Just get a 12V LED from Radio Shack and connect it to the APC... Same thing. Running both would be redundant.
Also, to clarify, no; the instructions in post one are incorrect if I remember correctly. They are corrected later on in page 1 I believe.
As for a red box, they're not worth it. I paid $30 for my entire APC setup, it hits 20PSI at low RPM and gets there quick before it starts bumping it down. This is also something you can do with parts from Radio Shack, modifying your normal APC unit to the same spec as a red box. Normal APC has a 21-22PSI (1.5bar) max.
+ side.
My APC is not modified aside from adjusting the F & P pots. I'm extremely happy with it as is.
It's actually very simple. And being an APC, you don't have to worry about over boosting. So long as you just adjust the boost pot, you're golden. Never touch the knock sensitivity pot, for any reason, ever.
It's just like a little dial, it only turns so far to the left and so far to the right. So don't worry about turning it too many times or anything. Just adjust it like a MBC. Leave the box open, drive it, adjust it, drive it, adjust it, etc until you get it where you want. Then close the box and mount.
Lots of other stuff can be done with them. You can solder in resistors, different pots and other electronic stuff that I don't understand (I'm with you.. That's why I didn't mess with mine) to be the same as a red box.
RPM signal to (+) or (-) of coil?
Got everything mounted and in place, pressure transducer, APC unit and 3-way valve...just need Boris' harness and I'm going to be boostin!
Dr.Thunder said:+ side.
My APC is not modified aside from adjusting the F & P pots. I'm extremely happy with it as is.
Rpm signal goes to negative side (-) terminal 1 on coil
The positive side (terminal 15) is +12V when ign is on (supply for coil), the negative side is switched by the contacts in the distributer, the ECU or the ignition module.