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Old 07-12-2011, 10:10 AM   #23
Doherty_340
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Join Date: Nov 2010
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some very helpful/informitive replies...thank you all.

tho, some new questions have arised....

i've watched a computer generated video on youtube of this diff, how it works, and it in 'exploded' views. ( i guess its the video posted? i haven't tried it as the media player on this laptop is rubbish. plays videos in robotic/ strobelight type jumps.)

if i go the welded weights route, and i suffer slip and a hot housing, can i still get it split to replace my clutchpacks??

could it be possible to install a single extra 'disc' to the worn pack to tighten them up? or best replacing all of the pack? i'd guess even with the extra 'disc' in the worn pack, the worn discs could still slip against one another but grip the single new 1, thus still giving slip/possibly more heat??

if the weights are welded, they still have to rotate to generate the lock-up, right? and if i just weld the pawl to the casing, the weights would still expand and...lock-up?? or bust into pieces?? lol.

at first, i'd thought about shaving/champhering the weights at each end, increasing the centrifugal force needed to expand them out...then i thought that would just heighten the difference in speed needed between the wheels to achieve the lock-up?? am i understanding this correctly??

sstory: i'd prefer to do this mod right, ie dissamble/cut the pawl/reassemble. tho only if its a better option. if welding the weights has the exact same outcome and is obv the quicker/easier option, then i'l do that...

also to clarify, the complete axle is out. i bought it on its own as my 940 is non locking. after upping the boost to 0.8 bar its funny, but not much 'fun' leaving 70ft long 1 wheeler lines. i like 11's and arse out achshun.
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