cwdodson88, thanks for the tips on the AN fittings. It made things a lot simpler. I ended up applying a bunch of your advice and using a very sharp drill bit (held in a tap handle) to take off about 0.010 on diameter from the ID of the hose right where it coke bottles in at the ferrule inlet. Even after that it was a real effort and feels very solid. If it leaks, at least I have them all sized and clocked for the hydraulic shop to do it up proper. Or to order a variety of -4 hose and see which one goes in better.
Oil feed goes back to the banjo fitting on the block, coolant feed to the heater outlet on the head, and coolant return directly to the water pump. There's a deceptive amount of space between the exhaust manifold and the inboard side hose probably at least an inch.
Around the left side of the block at the coolant outlet. Looks tight, but, doesn't rest on anything and is restrained by a p-clip on the right side of the block. This line need one more tie down around the banjo fitting but that's not really accessible with the turbo in place. I need to decide if I want to use another hose separator or put a second p-clip in under the manifold. I worry that's a bit of a hot spot for the clip.
Honestly, the way this car is driven, sporadically at best; not at all in the last 10yrs, I probably should have skipped the coolant lines and just made my life simpler. Amusingly, this is my
simple solution to dealing with my cracked heater valve assemble. During round 1, it was very very late at night and I was adding coolant and adding coolant and adding yet more. Eventually it dawned on me that I had added a looooot of coolant and the radiator hadn't filled up that far. Nothing under the car and no visible leaks in the engine bay. I heard this very faint dripping noise and discovered a very small puddle of coolant in front of the rear wheel. When I opened the drivers door I discovered all my missing coolant forming a small lake in the driver footwell. Luckily the interior was out but a few choice words were used.