• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

R32rennsport's Amazon Thread

Nice car, nice wiring! I agree with 142 guy about voltage drop and have had excellent results on 2 different cars by adding a couple of relays and heavy-gauge cable, no cutting required.

Daniel Stern (http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html) has a lot of good tech info and prepared harnesses, or you can DIY.

Run new, fused 8-10ga wires to the relays and then on to the headlights via new connectors. Tap the existing headlight connector for power to switch the relays on and voila. Easily done, easily reversed.
 
Nice car, nice wiring! I agree with 142 guy about voltage drop and have had excellent results on 2 different cars by adding a couple of relays and heavy-gauge cable, no cutting required.

Daniel Stern (http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html) has a lot of good tech info and prepared harnesses, or you can DIY.

Run new, fused 8-10ga wires to the relays and then on to the headlights via new connectors. Tap the existing headlight connector for power to switch the relays on and voila. Easily done, easily reversed.

Thanks for the advice guys. Relaying the headlights is something I've contemplated and after reading through this definitely doesn't seem difficult or detrimental to the cars original layout. Direct power to the lights while taking load off the light switch seems like a win win with only modest additional wiring.
 
Well, the driving lights are up and running. I also wired up some indicator lights on my add on switch panel and moved my overdrive indicator light to the dash. Drilling into the never modified dash board was a moment of commitment.

Unfortunately, my mysterious misfire issue has cropped up again after I thought I had resolved it with removing a fuel regulator. My suspicion now is a failing poor quality mechanical pump of which has only giving me issues since installing it. I think it's time to install an electric one back at the tank (with a safety relay harness) and be done with it. I hear the ones for early carb'ed Porsche 911s are reliable and great choice as they are rated for 2.9 psi and therefore require no regulation. I know the Carter pumps are good to but a little on the noisy side.



 
A pictures I snapped on Friday before and after work. Then A few pictures from a social distance club drive on Saturday which as you can tell was Amazon heavy, I cropped out the 240s, my apologies.









 
I took some time last night for a small but much needed project, to clean and polish up my tail light lenses. They were pretty grungy inside since I last had them off 5 years ago for seals. I lined the dividers with foil tape. I cleaned the inside of the bezel rings and added foil tape to those as well. I debated just polishing out the reflectors but after giving it a go with one side I decided to just foil tape those as well, we'll see how they hold up. I also cleaned all the contacts and added protective paste to them. I wish I had taken before and after pictures but the difference is quite a amazing. The lights are much brighter and the color is vibrant. There are even noticeably different with the lights off as the insides are extremely reflective now and reflect even ambient light. Took about and hour a side but I highly recommend taking the time for better safety!
 
Making some progress in multiple areas. Did some metal work and paint on the early nose piece and got that assembled and mocked up on the car... now I think I'll have to blend into the fenders because the new paint looks so nice, oops.


Something about this picture just speaks to my soul. I?m just now catching up on your build thread and it?s amazing. It?s funny, I first saw your car on David Bello?s video of SLORolling. Then I saw from Rust to Rally, before finding your thread here. So cool, msn! I?m hoping to make it to SLO next year in my Amazon. You and many others here inspire me. When I saw your Luggage radio on David?s video I immediately started searching for one, lol. (Haven?t got one yet, but one day).

Awesome work, dude!
 
Something about this picture just speaks to my soul. I?m just now catching up on your build thread and it?s amazing. It?s funny, I first saw your car on David Bello?s video of SLORolling. Then I saw from Rust to Rally, before finding your thread here. So cool, msn! I?m hoping to make it to SLO next year in my Amazon. You and many others here inspire me. When I saw your Luggage radio on David?s video I immediately started searching for one, lol. (Haven?t got one yet, but one day).

Awesome work, dude!

Thanks for the kind words! Glad my progress has inspired, hopefully we all inspire each other!

The luggage is pretty awesome, very well made and works great, an overall perfect solution for an old car when you don't want to fiddle with installing something. I lucked out and won it in a raffle on Instagram from the maker Loud Luggage. They are pretty pricey though.
 
The fog lights look rad. Noticed your in Atascadero. That’s where I bought my 122 from. These 2 brothers, they had a few volvos, and some other nice classics. Maybe 5 or 6 years ago. Beautiful area.
 
The fog lights look rad. Noticed your in Atascadero. That?s where I bought my 122 from. These 2 brothers, they had a few volvos, and some other nice classics. Maybe 5 or 6 years ago. Beautiful area.

Small world. I wonder who they are, I have a couple ideas but I know just about everyone in this county with a vintage Volvo, it's a pretty small area.
 
Small world. I wonder who they are, I have a couple ideas but I know just about everyone in this county with a vintage Volvo, it's a pretty small area.

Here?s a picture of one of the brothers. That?s how the car looked when I pulled up to the house.

<img src="https://i.ibb.co/02Bvj5T/CD938-C2-C-5461-4-C08-B3-CC-8-FD10855-DEB5.jpg" alt="CD938-C2-C-5461-4-C08-B3-CC-8-FD10855-DEB5" border="0">
 
So small update. I've been dealing with a random misfire scenario for the past few months. It cleared up for the most part on its own after I made a bunch of changes that I really didn't need to make out of frustration. Though I made them one at a time it definitely was carb related in my opinion, I went through the carbs twice looking for contamination or something out of whack but never found anything definite but after the second go through it cleared up. I was left with a very annoying constant part throttle subtle bucking sensation at cruising speed though. As you can imagine driving it either on or off throttle became very annoying as well as not great for fuel economy. A few tweaks here and there finally smoothed everything out and gave it some clean power delivery as well. The biggest change was going from a standard spec 4.5 aux venturi to a smaller 3.5 which brings the main circuit on the DCOEs in earlier in the RPM range which I suspect smoothed out the overlap from progressive to main circuits which is right at cruise RPM. As I've stated in my other thread in the performance/modification forum I'm thinking about doing this engine over again to get a little more out of it, but for now I think it's 95% as good as it's going to get. I feel like my engine is somewhat lazy due to most likely low compression and too much cam producing a weak vacuum signal which might explain why some of my carburetor settings very a bit from what is expected. Like they say every engine has it's own personality.

My current specs are as follows:

45 DCOE x2 (Spanish made)
34mm main venturi
3.5 aux venturi
60F9 idle jet
145 main jet
190 air jet
F9 emulsion tube
2.00 needle valve
Floats set to 25mm below carb deck
(29mm is target for most but I've added a couple degrees tilt on the engine to clear air filter to body)

123 Dist. Map #2 with 12 degrees initial advance at 900, 38 total at 3500
50mm air horns
VCS replica long runner intake manifolds
2 inch Simons sport exhaust with Patriot header
KG10 camshaft
B20 2130cc w/ FI head, static compression unknown, 130 psi/ cylinder
 
Last edited:
Attempted something that I've been putting off for years, rebuilding the drivers door (passenger side will come later). It was time, I was tired of the glass rattling in the door, falling in the door (missing lower rail) and general wind noise. I knew it was going to be a pain in the butt and admittingly I cheated a little bit during installation as well and it was still a pain in the butt. For those of you attempting a full door overhaul including; door seal, vent window assembly, door glass channels and scrappers, I would allot at least 6 to 8 hours per door. The door seal I did quite a few years ago so my main focus for the vent window and main side glass channels.








 
The end result looks worth it, but man that looks like a ton of work! I'm getting ready to head up to Paso for Targa805. Can't wait to see your Amazon in person again!
 
The end result looks worth it, but man that looks like a ton of work! I'm getting ready to head up to Paso for Targa805. Can't wait to see your Amazon in person again!

Thanks! Awesome! It'll be nice to have a little Volvo contingent. The roster looks pretty awesome. It's all the roads I've grown up driving so I'll be right at home.
 
Looks good! Glad you did the vent windows, keep that water out of your door and the cabin!

Seeing your car really makes me want to have another Amazon.

What's your altitude ? 45's seems like a lot of carbs for a B18 or B20.
 
Back
Top