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Old 07-27-2020, 07:56 PM   #68
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volvowagoon's Avatar
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Franklin, IN

The rain stopped, so I went straight to the fuses. Everything worked fine. Figures. I then hooked alligator clips to the black wire side of the sender connector and the ring terminal. Those got hooked to positive and negative on my DVOM respectively.

The only thing to do then was go for a drive to see if it would change. I adjusted my rear view mirror and kept vigilant.

I never saw it dip below 12.8V after driving 50 miles in stop/go traffic, but it seemed to run pretty good the whole time... This time I stepped back and reflected. I haven't driven this car in almost two weeks. In the mean time, I've been driving a turbo Camaro every day.... Maybe a lot of what I've been feeling today is just placebo? After all, I used to make fun of people coming in to the Honda dealer after trading their Tahoe for a CRV and complaining about no power. I figured it was time to let Allie drive.

She thought the acceleration and torque was way better than she had ever remembered it, so I accepted the current condition as normal. This doesn't entirely explain the lack of audible lift pump action after the previous test drive, but I've been checking this entire time with the full interior together. Once I pulled the interior apart (after the post storm drive), shut the hatch, and tried again, I realized that it may have been impossible to know with all the lawn mowers and birds in the neighborhood. Then again, these last two drives were both AFTER the storm and therefore almost thirty degrees cooler than earlier in the day. That's a big swing, but I guess I'll keep driving it through the week and see if my condition comes back.

Thanks everybody for the help. I guess the moral of the story is to test your aftermarket senders before you put the whole car back together! Also, diagnosing "low power" issues on a car that's rated for less than a third of what your daily driver is making might be difficult.
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