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Charisma.

Shifter!!!

It?s in!
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Hey nice job!!!! question, Where did you get that shift boot? I made mine 5 spped and I need a boot just like yours cause the one I have does not cover the gap left by the auto lever assembly. Thanks for any info
Take care
DZ
 
Got some bits
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Installed some bits
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AEM 340lph pump. I purchased an Aeroquip -6an weld bung and hacked the output line off the sender. Cleaned up the metal the best I could and started welding. I found welding at the back of the joint extremely difficult, had to bend my tungsten and used the biggest gas lense cup I have, which was the fupa 12. I could not get a clean weld.... Im blaming shielding gas turbulence due to the fuel output pipe being in the way. Feeling defeated I ended up just pulling another unit from the junkyard. I used hose barbs and clamps to jump down from the sender output hose (~1/2") o the -6 an (3/8") aeroquip hose. I chose to power the pump with a generic 40A automotive relay triggered by the factory pump wiring and pulling power off the 4ga power cable that is ran to the subwoofer amplifier under the floor. I want to look into modifying the first sender with a bulkhead fitting and also making my own wire feed thru instead of reusing the factory feed thru which likely doesn't support the current draw of this pump.
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AEM 340lph pump. I purchased an Aeroquip -6an weld bung and hacked the output line off the sender. Cleaned up the metal the best I could and started welding. I found welding at the back of the joint extremely difficult, had to bend my tungsten and used the biggest gas lense cup I have, which was the fupa 12. I could not get a clean weld.... Im blaming shielding gas turbulence due to the fuel output pipe being in the way. Feeling defeated I ended up just pulling another unit from the junkyard. I used hose barbs and clamps to jump down from the sender output hose (~1/2") o the -6 an (3/8") aeroquip hose. I chose to power the pump with a generic 40A automotive relay triggered by the factory pump wiring and pulling power off the 4ga power cable that is ran to the subwoofer amplifier under the floor. I want to look into modifying the first sender with a bulkhead fitting and also making my own wire feed thru instead of reusing the factory feed thru which likely doesn't support the current draw of this pump.

Doing the same with my setup, had my friend weld an 6 AN fitting to the output pipe and he said it was a PITA. I'm also wondering about the factory wire feed and will probably replace with a chemical resistant 3 wire bulkhead fitting I picked up from McMaster Carr.
 
Putting together an evo 16g with a 10.5cm turbine housing opened up for a td06sl2 11 blade wheel.
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Tossed together an up pipe and started on the beginning of a downpipe.
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Got a cheap evo 8 intercooler
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Thats what 3rd gear is about to say.


I know right!?

Drooool

That J-pipe and beginnings of the downpipe look so good.

Thanks man!

Takes years mate

Too long. Im having fun, really looking forward to seeing how this all works out.


Needing more room for the turbo intake, I grabbed a washer fluid tank out of some honda at pick N pull and moved everthing right up near the head light. I still need to do something about the coolant tank as i feel its much to close to the turbine housing.

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Purchased a wastegate actuator and built a bracket for it off the side of the compressor housing. Love when things just sorta work out. I need to mess around with the actual waste gate flapper arm a little more but im happy with the location of the actuator.

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Mine barely qualifies as lifted, I needs some fresh AT tires before bringing my wagon near yours.

Got some more work done for the +T.

When I first started building the J pipe I looked in the engine bay and thought to myself, "oh, tons of room". I went back to the work bench and pretty much didn't look at how it would fit in the engine bay again until I had fully welded it. Now I realize it comes very close to the back of the alternator. Im cheap and lazy, so obviously my solution in an attempt to salvage my work is to attach a little heat shield to the up pipe, we shall see how that plays out. I got the downpipe more sorted, I may move the v-band up more and ill likely save the rest of the downpipe fabrication for after install. Tig welding aluminized steel is boring and not rewarding.
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Started looking at oil and coolant plumbing. Shown here is my oil drain solution, its going to get pretty close to the bottom of the J-pipe, might need another heat shield lol.
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Oil feed will be a -4 line from the m14x1.5 oil pressure sensor boss with a banjo fitting with the bolt head tapped for 1/8" NPT for a pressure sender. No pictures sorry.

I am going to feed the turbo coolant from the radiator return hose via a -6an line tapped off this fancy pants radiator hose splice I made from a 1.5" aluminum elbow. Tig welded a 3/8 npt bung onto the pipe. Had to make my own bead crimper, got the idea from the internets.
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I needed a solution for the coolant reservoir as i felt it was to close to the turbo pump and extended a bit far forward which would make routing the turbo intake a little more difficult. I ordered up some weld fittings and built a 4"x4"x7" coolant tank. Im planning to weld a -6An bung to the bottom of this for the turbo coolant return. Tig welding aluminum is fun and rewarding.
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Something about J pipes and Evo turbos on a 240 just makes me smile.

:) I don't really get what it is either, but I have been wanting to do this for a very long time. There was a point when I was asking myself why I didn't just slap a 15g on a 90+ and call it a day, but thankfully im in too deep to turn around now.
 
:) I don't really get what it is either, but I have been wanting to do this for a very long time. There was a point when I was asking myself why I didn't just slap a 15g on a 90+ and call it a day, but thankfully im in too deep to turn around now.

:rofl:

Sam said the results for him were fairly disappointing but I never got solid details, I know he was having some water to air intercooler issues. From a birds eye view it seems like a great idea.
 
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