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+t braided oil supply line length ?

I made all my at 21" of HOSE, so fitting to fitting would be a longer measurement. 24" works great too.

That length works good, leaves enough clearance and space to clear the many doohickeys surrounding the engine.

pic:
p7123714.jpg
 
Thanks, guys. AN4, right?

BTW, what ID size hose do I need to connect the Mitsui coolant hard lines? I can order that from Pegasus as well.

M12x1.5, same as feed. The feed I have is AN3 iirc.

are those seats in the pic for sale by any chance......?

They are back in my car now, besides, shipping them over the pond wouldn't be worth it :)
 
-3 would be better as you won't need to run any restrictions. Also, run it directly to the turbo instead of around it like in the picture. That's just a waste of line.
 
-4 works fine, no need for restrictors unless you're running a fancy ball bearing turbo. Also running it around the side like JW there keeps it away from the glowing hot manifold. Just cuz it's stainless steel doesn't mean that the ptfe inner liner won't melt. And at 21" it's not nearly as long as his hose, fits much snugger to the outside of the turbo.
 
-4 works fine, no need for restrictors unless you're running a fancy ball bearing turbo. Also running it around the side like JW there keeps it away from the glowing hot manifold. Just cuz it's stainless steel doesn't mean that the ptfe inner liner won't melt. And at 21" it's not nearly as long as his hose, fits much snugger to the outside of the turbo.

agreed 100% on all accounts. For those who don't know, my line was supplied by John.
 
22-24" with straight fittings on both ends. Straight adapter fitting threaded into the turbo. You'll be able to go on the "cold" side of the compressor housing away from the exh manifold (as shown above). On the autoX car I had to go between the comp housing and the exh. manifold because the line was shorter and because the T04 comp housing is huge (it fit under/around the T3).

Use mapp gas or similar, careful bit of heating/cooling on the plug/block, and then clean out the hole, tap in an allen wrench, tap with a hammer, should come right out. I did one a couple weeks ago, was shocked how easy it was with the right tools.

If you use a 90 degree fitting into the block, stick a screw driver into the timing belt cover bolt hole and break a chunk off the cover. Or remove the cover. ;-) I just broke it since both I've done were already cracked. Then I put the piece back on, and put the bolt back in once the fitting is in place.

-3AN line with -4AN fittings works fine (premade line, crimped ends). I've also used -4 line with -4 fittings on a custom line mikeP had made for me at the machine shop, but that was a bit more expensive. But nice that I can change the fittings as needed.
 
Don't suppose anybody would wanna make a braided oil line kit for me, would they? :oogle:

15g + b230FT with a standard 90+ manifold in a Volvo 240? I could do it myself but I'm really strapped on time :(
 
For those who don't know, my line was supplied by John.
Ohh haha, even I forgot that. I thought those fittings looked familiar. Well then ignore my previous comment, that line pictures uses exactly 21" of hose.

Don't suppose anybody would wanna make a braided oil line kit for me, would they? :oogle:
Shoulda told me that before I sent off the shifter knob! Btw you get it yet?
 
Shoulda told me that before I sent off the shifter knob! Btw you get it yet?

Hahaha oh yeah! I forgot you can make those too. :-P

Hell yes I got it! Looks rad and feels great! (ZVOLV likes it too!) I like the rubber of the original shifter knob but the shape of the new one just feels right. :)
 
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