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My perception of a daily driver was too messed up!

Just a random thought here....I have missed a few pages. How about a fuel pump? Maybe a dirty sock? Week wiring? I say this because i had the same problem...come to find out the intank pump was not running and the inline 044 was having a hard time sucking through that pump and I would lean out near 15psi as well.
 
klr142 said:
See red.

On another note, you will like having an adjustable cam gear on there advanced 2-4 degrees. Grab a free one from somewhere and send it to Avalanche to have it drilled for $25 or whatever it is, or just buy one outright from them.
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I agree with a lot that you said. Im thinking that its less of a non functioning part and more of non functioning wiring or a set issue in the programming.

Fuel cut could be tested by turning boost down correct? I do not have mikes chip anymore. Except in the ignition computer. Ill turn the boost down as low as i can get it and ill see what changes.

Funny you should mention the cam gear i found one in my garage and i have been emailing dale. I should be picking one up at ipd....

Nathaninwa said:
Just a random thought here....I have missed a few pages. How about a fuel pump? Maybe a dirty sock? Week wiring? I say this because i had the same problem...come to find out the intank pump was not running and the inline 044 was having a hard time sucking through that pump and I would lean out near 15psi as well.
Click to expand...

We have thought about it but i have done nothing to check. Checking the fuel pressure at the rail would be a great idea. But heres where im struggling to grasp that its a fuel pump or even remotely fuel related.

It goes from mid to high 11s to cutting out and flashing 30s or so. Seems like a random missfire. Its not aggressivly leaning out into the 12s 13s 14s then cutting. It just cuts.

I have covered most of the ignition stuff, plugs wires, cap,rotor, coil. Im trying another coil tonight or tomorrow. For it to be fuel related it would be fuel pump frp or injectors these three things are recently replaced the fuel pump is a walbro 255 the fpr and injectors where clean out of the junkyard and i cleaned them and installed them all worked flawlessly for a long time. When i installed the intercooler is when i ran into the issue. What keeps freaking me out is the idea that when i tried brandons MAF the car pulled to 6,500 without a hickup. Twice if i remember correctly. Thats when i assumed the maf was the problem. A few days later i had tried about 4 different mafs 2 off of running cars. All with the issue having not changed.

Brandons maf has yet to be tried again (working on it) I have checked all the wiring to the maf and as you can read above found 1 wire with a good ground 2 wires with a high resistance to ground and the rest where not grounded

Weird thing is if there are bad wires from the maf. Wouldnt there be a problem at all rpms???
 
Looking back at my logs.....it only took about a half second for my to drop dead lean from an 11.6afr. I drove for like a week (50 miles maybe) with the internal pump not workin, then the car just quit....the 044 could not pull fuel even with a half tank gas....and in the initial fireup the tank was empty! When trying to replace the internal pump is when I figured out the pump was not getting any voltage.
 
Nathaninwa said:
Looking back at my logs.....it only took about a half second for my to drop dead lean from an 11.6afr. I drove for like a week (50 miles maybe) with the internal pump not workin, then the car just quit....the 044 could not pull fuel even with a half tank gas....and in the initial fireup the tank was empty! When trying to replace the internal pump is when I figured out the pump was not getting any voltage.
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Interesting! Do you think i would be able to see this Half second with a fuel pressure gauge?

My pump setup is just a single intank walbro 255. Could i be running out of pump?
 
I doubt your running out of pump....seeing FP would help. I have one that has a long hose on it for driving visibilty. I would maybe pull pump and check for clogged sock, maybe water in the sump....maybe even run a DVM from the pump wiring at the tank and watch it. It might not be the problem, but sure would awnser some unkowns. What about filter and line size?

You going to be at RSI as well?
 
Nathaninwa said:
I doubt your running out of pump....seeing FP would help. I have one that has a long hose on it for driving visibilty. I would maybe pull pump and check for clogged sock, maybe water in the sump....maybe even run a DVM from the pump wiring at the tank and watch it. It might not be the problem, but sure would awnser some unkowns. What about filter and line size?

You going to be at RSI as well?
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Ill pop the pump out and take a look at everything If nothings obviously maybe ill finally hook up a fp gauge. Checking voltage at the pump when the car cuts out? seems like a long shot for trouble shooting but i suppose its always worth looking. I think its half inch from the pump to the filter then from the filter to the rail its oem.

Yes ill will, wouldnt miss it!
 
Is the stock line the same as mine was where its like 3/16 inch on the ID at the flare fitting into the fuel rail?
 
go for broke and run 7's gapped at like .022 just to see. Im running a .024 gap but Im also wasted spark. Do you know how much air your turbo moves?
 
Nathaninwa said:
Is the stock line the same as mine was where its like 3/16 inch on the ID at the flare fitting into the fuel rail?
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Yup pretty damn small.

I could understand a fuel pump slowing down or getting plugged up. But the line size would have caused issues before if thats whats up now.
 
Nathaninwa said:
go for broke and run 7's gapped at like .022 just to see. Im running a .024 gap but Im also wasted spark. Do you know how much air your turbo moves?
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i am running 7s are there any issues with a tighter gap???? is there a reason not too?

Remember this issue started with an intercooler change not the turbo change.

Turning the boost down will be a good test of all of these theories

If i can get this thing to only boost like 4psi, if it cuts out still we can pretty much rule out spark gap and running out of fuel (fuel pump, injectors, fpr) a lot of **** actually so ill try to get the boost to a minimum tomorrow and see what happens.
 
Yep, what you just said.....I did not read that the IC was the change....but if it flows better...then more cfm is getting into the motor. Nothing wrong with a tighter gap, just wont get the cruise efficinecy your looking for. Can you wire open the wg at all and run kind of like an NA motor? I bet you build some boost.
 
Good idea!! ill just take the actuator off the wg arm and assuming the exhaust will open it on its own i should be at 0 boost. This will be a good way to test for boost creep as well! :)

Ill try this tomorrow!

(i have my doubts on the plug gap... running low to 0 boost should provide us with a better idea of what we are looking for)
 
So i tried something on the way home from school. I got it to redline in first and second by keeping it out of boost so the cut does not happen.

This tells us its either.

A. Running out of fuel
B. Blowing out the spark
C. Hitting fuel cut.

IF it was a sensor problem a wiring problem or any other issue it would happen out of boost as well. I cut the tps wire for wot so thats not a factor.

Ill try this big turbo coil i have and a tighter gap on the plugs. DOUBT it will do it but that eleminates everything from the igntion system. leaving only fuel related issues to be resolved.

(these are all pretty much assumptions so if you feel im wrong PLEASE say something, i dont claim to know everything, in fact i know very little so any little nudge in the right direction would be VERY HUGELY appreciated)

Come on guys i got 2 days!!! Lets DO THIS! :D

I hope its like a fuel filter or something

EDIT: could the fpr be allowing to much fuel out of the rail and not keeping the injectors at 3bar so in the higher rpm they dont flow enough fuel?

EDIT: would a spark problem be more likely at higher rpm than lower, keeping in mind it sees higher boost leves (13-14) at lower rpms than higher.
 
Sounds like your exhaust is making the cam clip, but it sounds like a spark problem.

Also seeing as the guy holding the camera didn't break his head on the dash :lol:
 
its pretty violent...

If it is in fact a spark problem then what else is there to do lol... The big coil ill try tomorrow and ill gap the plugs tighter. thats about all i can do to the ignition system.
 
This morning i tried the bigger coil and gapped the plugs to .024"... still cutting

I then pulled the fuel pump out checked the sock filter and checked the hose clamps from the pump to the pipe. The hose clamps where loose i tightened them and for a second i thought that may have been the issue. Went for a test drive... Still cutting

Hopefully speaking with beepee soon to double check that the fuel cut is dissabled on the ecu chip.

After we confirm that it is in fact disabled my only hope is fuel pressure regulator and injectors.
 
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